weaz4200

iTrader: (2)

If anyone has a wiring diagram for the rear hatch let me know. I could really use one since my Haynes manual doesnt have it.

Or if someone wants to read all of this and could point me in the right direction of what to do that'd be great.

I just bought a 92 Camaro from a small dealer and it seems the rear hatch motor doesnt work or has a wiring problem. Its stuck in the up position.

Heres what ive done so far.... I checked the voltage at the switch on the center console and it has full voltage. I have one question about that though. If i disconnect the switch and hook it to a volt meter set to continuity then i place the switch in the position that would open the hatch wouldn't the voltmeter beep? Basically like closing the circuit? Cause when i do that i get nothing.

There also seems to be 12 volts at the rear hatch motor. Regardless of whether or not the center console switch is connected of disconnected.

The relay in back next to the motor seems to click when i connect/disconnect the connector at the motor... I also hear a relay click in the center console if i jump the 2 wires for the switch... But no relay is heard just using the switch.

What can you guys make of this? Bad switch and motor?

torque_is_good

I hope someone has suggestions because I'm troubleshooting my hatch too

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Here you go.

Sound like you have a short somewhere that is supplying a constant +12V. Try pulling the fuse and check your voltage at those points again.

weaz4200

iTrader: (2)

I have 12V at the Hatch release relay. Once the hatch release switch is bypassed (it needs to be replaced), the release relay energizes and i get voltage at the extend relay. I also get 12V on the 138 wire red/wht all the way up to the connector switch assembly. Heres whats happening.

When i unplug the connector from the switch assembly then plug it back in i hear the relay energize and stay that way. Now when i pull the plug for the latch switch and then plug in the connector from the switch assembly the relay does nothing... It seems like the relay is constantly energized if the motor is plugged in.

So im thinking its either a short in the motor or the latch switch or somewhere between the 2. What do you guys think? IM really not down to buy a new assembly or rebuild this one unless im certain of the problem.

weaz4200

iTrader: (2)

How would i test the motor?

weaz4200

iTrader: (2)

Scratch that. Seems the Latch switch was in the Latched position and that's why it wasn't pulling the hatch down. But you fix one problem and you get another. Now when i pop the hatch the unit goes up, doesn't release the hatch and pulls it back down. I hate electronics. I think it might have something to do with a little plastic piece and coild springs on the backside of the unit itself.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Check that the latch release block is still attached to the back side of the frame of the pull-down unit with two very small hex head screws. There is a lever on the back side of the latch that contacts that latch release block which causes the lever to rotate to release the latch. If either the latch release block or the lever are broken or missing the latch will not release. There is also a spring loaded lever that pushes the hatch hook free of the latch once it's been released.

Lon Salgren

weaz4200

iTrader: (2)

Thats what I was messing with today. When i had my friend look at the car yesterday he did something and the plastic lever and little spring came off. Theres like no room to work with to try to get both parts on... I succeeded in getting them back on. I either have them put on wrong or something else is wrong.

That spring also pushes the hook if you pop the hatch with the key... Correct? If thats the case then the spring loaded lever works properly.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Correct. I don't know if you'll be succesful getting that lever back on. You'll need to disassemble the latch assy from the body of the pull-down unit to get to the lever. Remove the reversing switch, then use a socket extension to remove the 3 screws that attach the latch plate to the body. If you can't get the spring and lever properly re-installed so it will release the latch, then you'll need to get a replacement. Call me if you need the parts between 8AM-6PM Pacific Time.

Lon Salgren

djdsails

are there any other pages that are a part of the wire diagram that you posted? is it like a book or something? just wondering...

Deck man

I have three wires to the hatch release that have come out. Black, White and Orange. Can anyone tell me which order they're supposed to be in?

NINÅ

Deck man

Three wires by release switch that cause the locking mechanism to go up and down

NINÅ

camaronewbie

The hatch release switch has 12v+ on it because it's actually connected into the starter circuit. The release switch sends a ground to the release relay to activate the hatch.

{I think}

A few weeks ago, I had mine all apart, and I remember being very very confused about the fact that a wire that sends a ground would also have 12v+ on it - but I kinda gave up and never really figured it all out well enough to make sense to me. But I do remember that the hatch release button is mixed in with the ignition circuit (purple wire to starter), and this connection I believe is made within the neutral safety switch. It all has something to do with not being able to open the hatch when the car is in motion (car must be in park).

Note there is another relay as well - the second relay is a mini relay (same as the horn relay), and is located behind the rear panel in the hatch on driver side. That relay switches off and on with the opening and closing of the hatch motor (switches one way for "up, switches the other way for "down". Very confusing system (to me).

It sounds like maybe you have the same isues I did, and I ended up "cheating" the system by attaching the ground from the release relay to my parking brake switch - that way the relay would get a ground source only when the parking brake was applied, solving the issue of the hatch accidentally opening while car in motion. I'm not happy with the fact that it no longer works as it used to, but I am happy with the fact that I got it to work again. I replaced everything to fix my issue with no resolve (other than my rigging it to the parking brake switch).

But here's wiring diags that might help you - scroll all the way down, tons of diagrams for a 1992 car (same for 1991 car): http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=19

dubasracing

i have a 90 rs and needed a rear latch so i got a donor one out of an 87 camaro.. my dilema and question.. im building this car for mostly race. im not concerned about the electric part working i just want it to latch and work manually.. ive tried to alignt the latch in several positions and it seems the latch sits too low its not fully engaging to lock.. i noticed the latch rides on a set of tracks and they are in the down position should it be up all the time? if so is there a way to make that adjustment or hot wire the motor? the car is completely gutted of wiring and most factory equipment, all is aftermarket. please advise on how to get my rear hatch to work simply manual. thanks

djdsails

you can adjust the height of the unit, by loosening the bolts and sliding the unit up if its to low. leave the tracks in the down position.
there is a key hole right behind the license plate where you can manually unlock the hatch. the key pulls a wire which connects to the unlocking mechanism in the unit. its very easy to see where it goes (if its all in once piece).
once you have the height you like, with enough force you can get it to lock. you have to take the hatch and have a good amount of speed and push it down without stopping. constant pressure. you should be able to just slam (not all your might) it shut with no problem. when u close it, does it sound like something is happening? or does it sound like a banging sound? if there is no banging than u just need to push harder...
i spent months just manually closing and opening the hatch before i got it working. the solenoid was old and prob rusted inside. a little WD40 and hrs of clicking it helped.