ASE doc

What brand of starter are you buying? There are some to avoid. The results of your testing seem to indicate that the VATS relay is closing as it should with the key on, correct key code at the module. They also show us that your PRNDL switch is okay.

Your problem, besides probably having a junk starter, is in your ignition switch or the power to it. The switch is on the colunm, above the brake pedal. The switch gets its power from a fuse link at the starter. You can test this fuse link by verifying that the accessories, such as power door locks or windows, work. Do the gauges respond when you turn the key on? Does the underhood light work. If so, access the ign switch and verify power at both large red wires. If you have power there, try starting the engine again and test for power on the yellow wire at the switch. If no power, you have a bad switch or it is misadjusted. This is the same yellow wire that you tested at the relay. If it has power at the switch and not at the relay, there is a break in it somewhere. (aftermarket alarm?)

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

What I have been saying all along
Have you got power to starter circuit from Ign switch?

Dragonsking

*UPDATE*
the car is fixed and running now. the module taht I put in for the fuel injectors works great at 30hz, as its suppose to. I will never have to worry about that again.

As far as the starter goes, I replaced that, but that wasn't the problem. The problem was that there was no 12v switched lead going to the ignition side of the solenoid. I have ran a wire from the battery that i touch to the relay side wire, and cranks the starter. This cranks my car.
Just in case anyone wanted to know, the initial problem here, as far as I can tell, was in the Ignition switch itself. This unit (not the ignition cylinder where the key goes, its the board itself) has gone bad. This is why I am not getting a 12v switched lead to the starter ignition side.
Can anyone confirm this for me?
Thanks for all the help guys.
Until next we meet again, which I am sure, with this car, will not be long. Never shall I give up on my baby. I love my 91 RS.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

You were told about the switch back on the 27th of last month by Davidgou but choose not to check it


This why you must do PROPER diagnostics of a suspected fault.

You took it apon yourself to decide that VATS was at fault right from the start ( see your 1st post ) and have wasted 3 weeks trying to fix a problem ( that didn't exist)

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Vetteoz for acknowledging what I said. I'm sorry, but that's why I don't comment a lot of times in these boards, 'cause a lot of times folks are really not willing to listen to our sugestions. I've learned a lot through the years just listening and troubleshooting, following suggestions and directions from others that know more and from reading a lot. We all need to be humble enough to listen and admit that we don't always know it all.

Dragonsking, I'm glad your car is running fine now. Good luck!

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

As they say , " you can lead a horse to water "

OK , so there are some quirky things on these cars but the basic principles are the same.
As I stated throughout this thread.
You have a wire from A-B.
Power goes in one end and out the other.
Check for power at the start and follow circuit through until you have no power.
Not rocket science

1991z28........

okay im having some issues with my car staying on..

bypassed- starter relay
bypassed- neutral switch
bypassed- key resistance


i left the vats in it to not mess with the 30hz going into the fuel injectors..

problem- my car wont stay on at cranking time i have to push down the gas pedal and hold it to keep it on, as soon as i let go the car turns off BUT!! it only does this when it wants to. theres times when it turns on and runs perfectly fine like nothing ever happend.. theres fuel going thru the rails so i was thinking that the fuel injectors werent firing but if they didnt fire the car wouldnt turn on at all right??

main problem-- car wont stay on at idle, only when it wants to

no security light on
fuel pump turns on
just replaced tps and set to .6

they have told me to check the, Fuel pressure regulator, and the Idle air control valve..

this is the weird part all this started happening when i checked a code and used the paper clip method.. connected top right connections (next to each other)

any suggestions thanks in advance

Cam_RS

Im having the same issue like yours. When i figured my ignition switch was bad so it had to replace it. However when i have it replaced thought it would solve the problem but it didnt. I tested the starter by a screwdriver thing the starter worked so as the solenoid and cranked my car. I dont see any security light on dashboard besides only the needles would move and headlights or tail lights work.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...formation.html




Checked the other items in the starter circuit like the NSS / clutch safety switch and the enable relay if you have one ?

You don't state what you own so can't be more specific as were to check

Cam_RS

I apologize for lack of info vetteoz. Okay my car is 1991 camaro RS, its a 5 speed so its a clutch switch. Am I suppose to check for power on this?

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Fill in your profile


As per the diagram below , have to check for power at all items on the starter circuit from the Ign switch to starter with key in START position.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Your car has VATS which may be the cause of your problems rather than a purely electrical fault
If you have no power on the green wire OUT of the enable relay then the VATS is not operating that relay to complete the starter circuit
The most common problem is the resistor pellet on the key not being read correctly by the VATS module because it or the contacts
in the barrel that read the resistor are dirty or worn
The relay itself may be faulty ( easily checked by bypassing the relay )

Read

https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

Cam_RS

I've bypassed the starter enable relay, except I havent done the vats bypass yet. I'm still waiting for the resistor that I'd order online. BTW I'm trying to check for codes on ALDL but I don't see anything that blinks on cluster?

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Did you do as I said above and check for power at all the items along the starter circuit ?

With the relay jumpered ,VATS is not going to have any effect on starter operation

Cam_RS

I'm not exactly good at reading wiring diagram, confuses me on where to start?
Is this the right way to bypass the enable relay?