ynk1121

iTrader: (2)

I plan to wire in a 95 camaro keyless entry module into my 1990 camaro. I have a couple questions:

1) Where is the power lock relay located on 1990 camaros?

2) Anyone have a wiring diagram for the trunk release? I've seem to found everything but that online.



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Edit: Since this thread is getting bigger and bigger I'm going to repost this here. This is what I did. It works just like it would have come from the factory with it. Unlock, Lock, and hatch release all work. You also gain delayed off for the courtesy light. This means never going into the car in the dark again! Lights will turn on with either a press from the unlock, or when a door is opened. Lights will turn off after a certain amount of time or once the key is put in the on position, which ever come first.

Use a multimeter or test light to figure out which Black wire is which on the relay or alternatively, don't mess with them and ground elsewhere. Cut one tan wire and try the locks first to help identify drivers side Tan from passenger side Tan. Tan on pin "G" on the keyless in the drivers side, Tan on pin "H" is the passenger side. The Greys won't matter which side is which as they get tied together.





And a little video I took showing it all working:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELOujsTTZ1Q


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NINÅ

ynk1121

iTrader: (2)

Left shroud? Have a pic or better description of where I'm looking?

Do you know if the hatch switch is giving a positive or ground to activate it?

NINÅ

platynumx

I plan doing something similiar.bought 2 95 z28s one wrecked with good motor(6 speed was already sold when I bought it) and one perfect body decent interior blown motor.I ve been stripping alot out of this car.my questions are :where is the controller for the locks/hatch located in a 95 z28?
And where can I find a wiring diagram to wire up the door locks in my 89? (Don't care about hatch release. My 89 has a trunk with no pulldown function.

Tia

ynk1121

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. Found it. Mounted about two inches above the hood release handle.

Of course it is. Module throws out a positive which means I need a relay. Booo!! Why can't things be simple?


I didn't remove it off the car but I believe it's by the passengers feet. Box is labeled "Made in USA TRW". There are two connectors on it. One with 3 wires, the other I think has 7.

I haven't started yet but it looks simple for the few seconds I looked at it. The newer camaros don't have a separate relay. It uses the relays in the module. Problem is they also use a dual pole switch where the older cars don't so you can't eliminate the factory relay in the older car. The relay will act like the dual pole switches. I think it's a matter of cutting the tans and greys coming off the relay and putting the keyless module inline. I plan to start tomorrow. I'll let you know what I connect where.

ynk1121

iTrader: (2)

Here is a drawing of what I did. I made it after the fact from memory so double check everything before you do it.

NullHead

Dude, that's awesome! kudos for that

platynumx

That is freakin sweet.thanks for sharing that

jstanfi1

iTrader: (2)

Thanks so much for posting this. It looked like you were correct when I verified with my wiring diagrams so I went ahead with the installation and got a weird result. The keyless entry works flawlessly, and so does the "lock" button on my door, but when I hit "unlock" on the door I blow the fuse for the power door locks. There's a bit of a delay, and what sounds like a surge before it blows. I can hear the pop in the unlock switch I hit too. Any ideas?

ynk1121

iTrader: (2)

Assuming your car is the same as mine, when you press the unlock button on the door, 12v is sent through a black wire. This black wire goes from the door switch to the relay. In it's normal state, both grey, and orange wires are internally connected in the relay to the other black wire which is a ground. When the 12v from the unlock switch goes to the relay, it's moving the Tan wires from ground to the orange/black which is constant 12v.

You're going to need a multimeter. If it were me, I would:

First triple check the wiring. There were many duplicate wire colors in this. Mixing up any of them will cause problems. There were 4 tan on the car (2 wires split into 4), 2 tans on the keyless, 4 greys on the car (2 split into 4), and one grey on the keyless. 2 blacks on the cars relay (a ground and 12v unlock signal), and 2 blacks on the keyless (ground and trunk). That makes a lot of opportunity to mix them up!

If all checks out, remove the Red/black and Orange/black and see if it still pops a fuse.

If you do pop a fuse, your problem is between the switch and the relay. Make sure you didn't accidentally ground the black wire coming out of the switch. That would send 12v directly to a ground (ie:a short).

If nothing happens with those wires removed, check them. All 4 wires (2 tans and 2 grey) coming from the relay should be a ground. With the door button pressed, unlock should make the tan 12v and lock should make the grey 12v.

If all is good from here, reconnect the Red/black and Orange/black. Disconnect the tans and greys going from the keyless to the actuator. Again repeat and see if the fuse pops and if the wires are showing what they should.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

I put this system in my 84 Berlinetta (and truck) a few years back & have some additional info that might help,....

Here's what the 95 Z28 Keyless Entry Module looks like: ( this was in stalled in my Blazer so I used a truck FOB ). It is factory mounted behind the pass kick panel in the 4th gens.



Here are the factory schematics for the 1995 Keyless Entry system:






Here is the factory schematic for the 1984 Power Lock System:





Here's an outline showing the connections between the 95 system and the 84 ThirdGen system. The later years will be similar - but a little different. I tapped into the ThirdGen power lock wiring @ the door lock relay (behind drivers side kick panel).




The 95 set-up allows the user to unlock 1 or both doors. When installed in the 84 ( as described above ) the user can only lock/unlock BOTH doors at the same time.

NOTE: The TRW's White wire feeds the ThirdGen courtesy light. Berlinetta uses a Purple wire but IIRC the 'regular' ThirdGen courtesy wire is also White.

The Hatch Cargo Light can be added to the system by splicing a lead from TRW's White wire at the ( optional ) ThirdGen Hatch cargo lights White wire. When the user pushes a button on the FOB the doors/hatch will unlock, the dome light will kick on & so will the hatch cargo light.

The wire from TRW Plug C1 Pin 'D' should go to a better "switched ignition power" source (usually pink or pink/black in a ThirdGen ) than the brake switch. I've never had a problem with it on the brake switch's pink/black wire, but would go to a better source on my next install !

P.S. Be sure to leave enough slack in the TRW's wiring harness so that the module/receiver can be mounted in a good spot. Don't leave them too short !! Once all connections are made test mount the system in various locations to be sure that it gets a good signal from the FOB before mounting perminantly.

jstanfi1

iTrader: (2)

Thanks so much! I got as far as to disconnecting the orange/black and red/black on my own last night and still had the issue. I woke up in the middle of the night thinking that I probably had the ground connected to the "wrong" black wire, so my guess is that's what it is and I'll be checking that tonight (after I get some more fuses!)

Great post though, and it works great otherwise. Probably need to clean/replace my lock actuators eventually though to guarantee performance, since I noticed the pulse from the keyless is pretty short.

jstanfi1

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the help! I do have a question...what's the 12V to the ignition power for? Is that what's used for programming? I noticed the unit works fine with that not connected, but I have the matching fob for the receiver.

ynk1121

iTrader: (2)

That is quite possibly the best feature. You never have to wander into the car in the dark again. Once you click unlock the lights stay on inside until you put the key in.

jstanfi1

iTrader: (2)

Ah. I'm putting this in a convertible just to avoid scraping up my lock cylinders so I guess that wasn't at the top of my mind, but yeah, that'd be handy on the occasion I have it out at night. Thanks again, and I'll post to let you know if the black wire was the issue.

ynk1121

iTrader: (2)

I got the 12v with ignition off the gauges fuse. As you can see in the diagram John posted, that's where it was hooked to in the 93-95 maros. It doesn't draw much so getting it from anywhere should be fine.

ynk1121

iTrader: (2)

Assuming your 84 wiring was the same as my 90, you can split the greys and tans and put the keyless in line and retain the one door at a time unlocking like shown in the picture I drew.

Richboll

I've got an '89 convertible w/ the trunk pull-down. Can I retro this system for my doors and trunk?

jstanfi1

iTrader: (2)

Looks like you should be able to. Do you have a remote trunk release switch on the dash? That'd make it a ton easier, since you might be able to avoid running a wire all the way back there.

ynk1121

iTrader: (2)

Yep, worked fine in my 1990, Johns 1984, and (as soon as he works the bugs out of it) jstanfi1s 1992. I don't see why a 1989 would be any different. See post 7. I made a diagram of whats involved.

ynk1121

iTrader: (2)

Took a quick 30 second video clip with my cell phone. Press unlock once and the drivers door unlocks. Second time passenger side unlocks. Lights stay on for a little while or until the key is put in the on position.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELOujsTTZ1Q

Richboll

I don't have a remote release for the trunk. I believe it doesn't have one because its a convertible. I have a tonneau/deck release between the power window buttons on the console. Just having the doors unlock would be a large help. Are these done with a kit or with JY parts?

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Im seriously gonna be doin this for sure. Anyone know where I can get the module and key remotes as every car around here in the yards are all missing the remotes. Seems pointless to buy it without them. Is there any other veichles I can snag the set up from??

ynk1121

iTrader: (2)

I got everything on ebay. I bought my module and fobs separate. It's a breeze to program them. All you have to do is touch one wire to a ground, touch a button on each fob, and remove the wire from ground. It could not get easier!

ynk1121

iTrader: (2)

I've never been in a convertible third gen so I can't help you there.

Junkyard parts or in my case ebay.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

6SIX6

I've got this set-up,...... Send me a PM for details.

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

You got a PM.

ZZ3 Z28

In 1988 I installed a GM keyless entry system VSS-200 that locked/unlocked both doors and tripped the hatch release. Cost me all of $104.00. Still works. But if it ever dies, I'll have to replace it with something new hopefully using the existing wiring.

jstanfi1

iTrader: (2)

I got in touch with Hawks and Bruce took care of me...under $60 shipped with a key fob that looks brand new!

Richboll

Let us know how hard/easy it is to install. Pics would be good. I have a feeling that if it's a good install, Bruce will be overwhelmed.

jstanfi1

iTrader: (2)

I'm sorry to say I didn't think to take any pics since it sounded like others had done this successfully before me. The wiring diagram a member provided above is awesome, just spend a bit of time studying it before you go to hook it up. I just disconnected the battery, pulled off the driver kick panel and the lower dash panels (more working room, but not necessary I don't think), and identified the wires I needed and started making my connections. I used twist-type connectors temporarily to make sure that everything was working ok, and then I went back and soldered and taped everything. I wound up mounting the box up inside the dash where I found some room. I used 3M command strips designed for heavy frame mounting; I've found these work excellent in automotive situations because they have a plastic velcro-like attachment between the adhesive sides to minimize the weight actually being held by the adhesive. This did reduce the range quite a bit; with a new battery in the fob I'm still only getting 100 feet or so, but it's enough for what I wanted it for.

jstanfi1

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, we were right and I grabbed the "wrong" black wire for the ground. I got that fixed and problem solved.

I checked, though, and even without the 12V Ignition wire hooked up the interior lights are staying on for a brief time after unlock, and they flash with lock. I think that hookup is only necessary for programming. I capped it but left it easily accessible (along with that ground to program wire, thanks for the tip) if I ever need to do a new keyfob.

Great mod, thanks for the help!

86White_T/A305

I thought about doing this yrs ago on my car but I have found that the range can sometimes be a problem with the factory keyless entry modules.I opted to just get a basic viper alarm to do these same features and had better range.Since then Ive replaced my basic alarm to a full 2way alarm/starter as my car is underground.The nice part is that I have priority unlock,domelight supervision,pathway illumination with my parking lights and fog light,horn honk and trunk release.The connections are maybe 5 wires more than what you guys are already connecting to while added security and remote start.I just like remote starter for a/c lol.I also installed a window module to vent down or roll my windows up because i wanted to see how easy it was and how well it worked..and I like it alot.It makes the window switch a one touch all the way up/down or press and hold.

jstanfi1

iTrader: (2)

I think the only reason to go with this approach is if you want a factory-look key fob. There are plenty of aftermarket options like yours that are easier to install and do a ton more, with much better range, for the same money or less.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Yup,...... The BOWTIE did play a part for me !!!


The door lock schematic pictured above is correct for the early style Power door Locks. (82-87) I *think* that the Power door lock systems were changed from 88-92. Here's the Schematic for the 91 Camaro Power Door Locks:




Here is the Programming instructions for the 95 Camaro Keyless entry system.

Richboll

Thanks for the additional info as mine is an 89. As soon as I get back home from this temp job, I will make this conversion. It would be grat if someone would list the steps and tools (sucks when your toolbox is 800 miles away). I might try it on a weekend.

BloodPhoenix

is receiver located in a cradle and mounted vertically behind pass kick panel?

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Yup !

Gabe10

Ok so I wired one up today and all I hear is the module clicking. I tested the tan and grey wires with one of those probes that lights up and they send power, but the motors dont do anything. What could be wrong?

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Do the power door locks work if you use the button on each door ?? Sounds like there's a bad connection @ the motor ??

Depends on how you wired it,.... there are more then one method described above. My method would unlock both doors if there was power thru either the Tan or the Grey wire at the relay.

Gabe10

So do I need a relay from a 95 or a 91? My car didn't come with power locks originally.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

In the examples above - the factory Thirdgen Relay is used.

This thread relates to installing the 95 Keyless into a Thirdgen that already has FACTORY Power Locks and wiring. There are any number of things that could be "wrong" if it's a custom installed Power Lock system.

LilSki

iTrader: (1)

I know this thread is a little older but I just did this to my 85 TA and I followed your wiring diagram to the T and everything works perfectly. I purchased an module from a 95 Camaro for $25 and a Firebird Key Fob for $20. So for $45 I got a keyless entry system. How can you beat that?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

$40 for new aftermarket security with door lock/unlock, hatch pop, illuminated entry (courtesy lights), attempted break in warning, new transmitter warning, and 2-way pagers (with a lot more range than the factory stuff). About $300 worth because it was the last/only one the shop had and they wanted it off their shelf (and I was a friend of the family). Even though it cost $80 for the install because I didn't feel up to doing it myself (and wouldn't have had the extra relay for the trunk pop anyways). And can add remote start later. Still debating the remote start and whether or not I would want to keep the factory keyless with the dash I plan on buying (93-96 Camaro) for the 88.

Good writeup, but I would try to find where the splice is in the factory power lock system for the 2 sides and describe where it is to make it easier to split the system in half for the "new" module.

LilSki

iTrader: (1)

The system is split on the wiring diagram. You just have to cut one wire at a time to find out which side is which as they are the same colors. Once you get it all wired up the drivers door open on the first push and the passenger opens on the second push.

Sounds like you got a hell of a deal on your system. But usually a $40 keyless entry system is a cheap Chinese unit that works 4 times.

kman71

I just got a prestige keyless system and going to install it on my 89 gta.

Is the wiring under the driver side kick panel?
Is the kick panel the black panel above your knees?
or the panel along the left wall next to your left foot?

Also, do you wire the hatch pop to the hatch pop button that is in the center console area above the radio?

I thought the kick panels were next to your feet, like some people put component speakers in them.

Any advise would be great if anyone has done this to their 89 gta.

Thanks for the help.

LilSki

iTrader: (1)

Kick panel is indeed next to your feet by the hood release. When you get it off there should be a black rubber flap covering the relay. Just touch it with your hand while you hit the door locks and you should feel it click.

As for the hatch I went to the button above the radio. That way it still has the safety system intact by either the car being off or the e-brake engaged in order to pop the hatch.

kman71

Cool, so you tie it into just one set of wires at the relay, tan and grey? Do you attach the live 12v wire there too, is it red?

Thanks again for the help.

LilSki

iTrader: (1)

The live 12v is orange and yes that is what I tied into just like the diagram shows