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Engine Swap Everything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.

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Old 05-01-2003, 07:47 PM   #1
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LT1 crank hub

i have to get the hub that the harmanoic balancer hooks to off..

i tried for a good hour to get it off...i was using a harmonic balancer puller..and it didnt work for sh!t..

i have to get the hub off in order to get the rest of the motor apart..

i would just lift the crank out with it on but the timing chain is still on it so i cant do that..
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Old 05-02-2003, 02:37 AM   #2
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Well, you will need to remove the little spacer off of the bolt that holds the hub onto the crank and then screw the bolt into the crank a little bit and then put the puller on.

Then it should come right off.

We did what you are doing and you are basically pushing on the inside of the hub while pulling on the outside. You will see that there is a small hole in the hub that the puller won't go through and that is what the bolt is used for.
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Old 05-02-2003, 10:29 AM   #3
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I'm not sure what a harmonic balancer puller looks like, but you need a jaw type puller. Also, take some PB Blaster or WD40 and spray from behind the balancer to where it seats onto the crank. Mine was difficult to get off as well, but eventually popped.
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Old 05-02-2003, 02:07 PM   #4
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I just pulled mine off my LT-1 I used a wheel/hub puller. As stated before take the bolt out, remove the washer/spacer and go back in a few turns and you should be go to go.
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Old 05-02-2003, 04:51 PM   #5
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lemme make sure im on the same page with u guys..theres a hole in the center of the hub..theres a bolt in there..i have to get the bolt out to pry off the hub

theres a problem with that,,

if i try to loosen the bolt the crank turns because i have all the pistons out

i didnt know this was gonna be a problem untill i tried to take the bolt out..and the thing is tightened to 456 ft lbs

this suck @ss...i got my rings and bearings ready to rock but i cant get the fricken crank out to put in new main bearings


should i put the rings in the pistons and bearing on the rods and put the pistons back in then get the bolt off and then replace the main bearings?

ahhhh crap then id have to take the pistons back out to put the crank back in

FU#K the little things!!
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Old 05-02-2003, 06:01 PM   #6
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Ah, if you had an impact, it would make it a lot easier to get that bolt out right now. didn't realize the motor was all apart like that.
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Old 05-03-2003, 03:23 AM   #7
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any ideas? lol

ill try an impact...
id really hate to have to put the pistons back in just to get a friggin hub off, then take the pistons back out...then put a set of rings on the pistons and put them back in..



that would be a serious PITA..let alone a 4 hour set back
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Old 05-03-2003, 03:37 AM   #8
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You could put two bolts into the hub and use an bar between them for leverage and then a socket on the centerbolt.
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Old 05-03-2003, 10:33 PM   #9
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Just went through this all myself...yes, use an impact, then use zephers method to get the hub off.
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Old 05-05-2003, 10:44 AM   #10
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I put the three balancer bolts back in part way and slide a large screwdriver between two fo them to hold it steady.
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Old 05-05-2003, 11:50 PM   #11
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alright guys ill give that a shot tomorrow
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Old 05-06-2003, 11:49 PM   #12
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well i got the bolt out today..

i put a breaker bar betweent he bolts and the socket pulling the other way...it worked like a charm, although i bent 2 bolts lol

then my dumb@ss forgot the hub puller
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Old 05-09-2003, 06:38 PM   #13
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update

it seems in all my futile efforts to remove the hub with out takin out the bolt i have stripped one of the holes on the hub...

now im converting to carb so i cant use the orignial damper because the timing tab on the timing cover wont clear it..the purpose of the hub adapter is to move the balancer out to clear the optispark..im not using an opti so i dont need the hub..without the hub i need a smaller (6 3/4) balancer to fit under the tab on the cover...

so i dont need the hub...anyideas on how to get it off...other then wack the piss out of it..

i was thinking about threading the bolts through the puller and intot he hub...the tacking welding a few spots so the bolts wont back through the threads...

sound good?...any other ideas?
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Old 05-09-2003, 06:55 PM   #14
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Use a 3 claw style puller, the kind you use to take gears off with.
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Old 05-09-2003, 06:56 PM   #15
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Also, in the manual, it shows 3 long bolts that are smaller than the holes in the hub and nuts at the end of the bolts.
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Old 05-09-2003, 07:04 PM   #16
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I busted 2 harmonic balancer removers trying to get mine off..The universal puller worked good for me..3 claw...
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Old 05-09-2003, 10:56 PM   #17
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i didnt even think about putting nuts on the bolts
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Old 05-11-2003, 01:49 AM   #18
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i got it off today...i tell you what, gm really pressed this on

i had some slack between the bolt and the hub so i know i wasnt working against myself, but this was incredibly hard to get off..

i put nuts on the bolts and the holes in the balancer were only slightly bigger then the nuts..they were started to come through the hub!!..

after i got my dad, we both went after it..we crank that ratchet so hard i thought we were gonna break it...then all the sudden it went..."crack" and broke the seal...then it was very easy to get off..

ohh that washer thats "pressed " on to that hub bolt..mine wasnt pressed on..it was like any other washer, just floppin around...

do i need that bolt?

thanks guys!
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Old 05-11-2003, 02:04 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by f-crazy


do i need that bolt?

thanks guys!
Depends, it might be too long or too short.
Put the new damper/balancer on and see if it works for you. Otherwise just got a standard sbc crank bolt.
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Old 05-11-2003, 02:30 PM   #20
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thanks..ill let you know what i find out
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Old 05-11-2003, 02:30 PM
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