maybe ....does anyone make a carb intake for the F/I 350 LT1 engines???

yes they do, in fact I just bolted my new one on today getting ready to put it in my race car with the Holley 750, the good thing is you can do away with the OPTI-CRAP and use a standard HEI dist. if you want to.

I got mine from jegs, you can check with GM performance parts but you will find that it's more expensive than summit when you add in shipping. its about $250.oo or so.

heres the part number from Jegs: 809-24502592

also don't forget about the intake manifold gaskets, they are about $25.00 and they are specific for the LT-1.

heres a pic of the manifold:

so....I could get an LT1 and carb it and drop it in eh? Motor mounts the same?

Seems like not a bad idea--aluminum heads, good comp ratio, nice cam.

Would be a lot cheaper to just add aluminum heads to your existing carbed engine. But to each his own...

maybe but---it'a an LO3--so all the parts are junk.

there are some very big differences in the LT-1 and a standard engine, the biggest it that it is "reverse cooled" meaning that the heads are cooled before the block which allows for more compression without worring about spark knock, also most of the internals are much better quality than a standard motor.

the only problem I found is that the passenger side mount is different and wont drop into the F-body mount, I just pulled the one off the old motor and bolted it right on the the LT-1 and it fit perfect. bear in mind that the LT-1 has no provisions for a mechanincal fuel pump so you would need some kind of elect. one (if you don't already have one) and with a carb a stock intank pump will be too much pressure and you'll have to install a regulator. you will also have to use an elect. fan.

just a few problems to work out but nothing so bad as to not to do it.

Yea I know about the LT1, I have one in my car. I'm just saying if you buy an LT1 you are paying for the opti, wiring harness, computer and all the fuel injection parts.

Half the stuff you are paying for you won't even be using. I also think it is kind of a waste to not use the fuel injection, your throwing away good gas mileage which a carb could never acheive for maybe a few hp.

Might be better to just buy some AFR heads, which would outflow an LT1 anyday.

Once the engine is in and running one could always add fuel injection later. I think I would do it, and in fact I might do it myself if I run across a good LT1 longblock. There is one more issue though, you would lose tranny lock up.

Once the engine is in and running one could always add fuel injection later. I think I would do it, and in fact I might do it myself if I run across a good LT1 longblock. There is one more issue though, you would lose tranny lock up.

Tranny lockup? Like torque converter lockup? How would you lose that

the 'puter controls that - no 'puter no lockup. just install a switch and rember to use it.

Hey, other folks know me on this board as Midnyte81, but that's beside the point.

I have been through more engines than I care to tell, (Some of them blowing up, burning up, all out dying, and even flooded) but when I thought about the LT1 swap, people on this board shunned away from it for lack of knowledge. I have some ?s for you. At first I was going to build this 400 hp/ 400 ft/lbs tq engine, After a while, I figured, "I'm just using this for street and not race, so why not go with an LT1 instead of a small block dragster engine?" I'm getting an entire LT1 engine shipped to my door for $850. (From wiring harness and throttlebody w/ serp setup to oilpan and exh w/ y-pipe) Due to having a 1984 Z28, my fuel lines are on the passenger's side, as if set up for a carbed fuel pump.It also lacks the wiring for the fuel pump or even an electric fuel pump for that matter. I know the LT1 has no fuel pump lobe on the stock cam, but I'm looking to drop this in as simple as possible. If I have to I'll go to carb, but I REALLY like the gas mileage. I have a probuilt TH700r4 that this will bolt up to. I'm not getting a 4L60E, as I have spent $1500 in my tranny already. Any suggestions on what else I need or am missing will be greatly appreciated. I will p+p the heads and intake, but I'm not taking apart the rotating assembly since the engine is only 45,000 miles. What type of fuel pump is recommended? Any splicing required for the little bit of factory wiring that is there? Let me know as this will be done when I get back from my deployment in two weeks
GO ARMY!!
HOOAH!!