DAVECS1

iTrader: (2)

I think as long a the knock sensor and module are for the same size engine you will be OK as far them working together. Being as these parts are kind of on the pricey side I would go ahead and try what you got, and see if the car is down on power. If you are really conerned you can first do a simple time light check in the drive way. If that seems to work out OK you could find a dyno shop close by and the graph will tell you exactly what the timing is doing. I wish my old man would of took me to the dyno shop after I finished my first car. If anything it is just awsome to here a car howling while standing still, but seriously it is good insight on how the car works as a sytem to get power to the ground.

If it does turnout you are having knock retard problems, I would first change the sensor to the one out of a 350 86-88 TBI-TPI car. I would try to stay with the 2 piece rear main model years. If that doesn't work I would layout the dough for a module, and if your still having problems, I would start checking mechanical stuff.

kboehringer

Silver_Panther,

We did not take any photos of the harness while it is out of the car and it's now been installed. However, what Derek and I can do is take a photo of it in the engine compartment (without the engine) and highlight each independent strand with a different color and add some markers and such. That should make your removal or replacement very easy. We didn't have such a resource and it would have been great to have.

I am concerned about what you are planning to do "RE: Clutter Removal". Although you could Probably remove a few wires here and there for pollution items, you're not going to get rid of too much and have it run. Let me give you some examples:
(Please keep in mind I'm not at home looking at the car and most of this is from memory)

Strand #1 - Monster from computer area and Pass. Fender Well.
Wires within this strand go to the Starter, Tranny, Carb/TBI, Knock Sensor, Knock Module, MAP Sensor, Air Pump???. Without most of that you won't go anywhere fast.
Strand #2 - Monster from Driver Side F.Wall. - Wires go to the Wipers, Distributor, Alternator, Ties into #4 below, and some pollution Stuff?.
Strand #3 - Kinda Small from Drivers FireWall - down the driver fender or under the brake system. Front Lighting! Definately Need all of that!
Strand #4 - Around the A/C Duct through F.Wall to Driver's Temp Controls. If you want Heat, Defrost, A/C you need all that stuff.
Strand # 5 - Tiny Strand ... Just for Cruise to inside F.Wall.

What are you going to get rid of? You can certainly route the wires nicer (we're trying some of this) and make them look better with some aftermarket wraps. There are NO strands you and Chuck in the trash! We're replacing our wiring because it was SEVERELY damaged and we couldn't use a Carb on a Cross-Fire harness anyway.

I'll make up the photos if you like......

Sincerely,
Kurt

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I got them both from gmpartsdirect.com for less than $100, including (the rather pricey) shipping.

kboehringer

I called the local Chevy Dealer early this morning......My "Guess" was pretty good (if we were to go to the dealer).
Sensor: $55.60
Module: $116.13

I was unable to get any info on the internet last evening. I found GM Performance Parts, GM Restoration Parts, Etc. Couldn't find plain old parts..... Five7Kid got a web address to the proper site?

Thanks again,
Kurt

91formulaSS

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com

their pretty good on price, but the shipping usually kills.

sellmanb

I'd imagine that the knock sensor and module would need to match up with whatever computer was used before. I've inquired on the boards before about using a 305 LG4 knock sensor on a 350, and everyone who responded stated the same thing, that it shouldnt make a difference.

If the module and sensor that you have are both from an LG4, and can verify that it used the same computer number then you should be good to go.

Of course, new parts never hurt anyone if you'd like to go that route lol.

Looks like you guys might have your whole car rebuilt before I get mine running again! Good progress, glad to see this come together so quickly

P.S. Your cam choice is perfect for your application

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

10456288, $27.80.
16128261, $48.39.

$93.82 total for the order.

Did take almost 3 weeks to get them - a little disappointed about that.

kboehringer

Sellmanb,

We can't take any credit for that choice as Five7Kid and DaveCS1 really made the choice for us.

"I" undertand the physical characteristics of Lift, Duration, Lobe Sep, and Proper Timing of those events in relation to the travel (or advance) of the pistons and TDC. But I don't have a good grasp of what's best/better for a specific application or even why it's better.

We're lucky to have TGO Friends to turn to when we're unsure or ignorant of needed information.

Sincerely,
Kurt

sellmanb

Atleast you guys ask questions if you dont know, instead of going blindly towards a goal lol


I have a 1986 LG4 car (or had, sort of hehe). If you need numbers for something or pictures dont hesitate to ask. I finally got the home computers working again and I can upload pictures.

If you need pictures of how my wiper setup works I'd be glad to rip things apart and take a few photos lol.

kboehringer

Lo-Tec & Other TGO Friends,
We're gonna try what we have and see how it works. If we see a Carbed 350 in the J.Yard and it has the sensor and module we'll grab it. If the car runs like crap we'll purchse a new set from GM.

It's not like it's gonna make the car explode if it inaccurately senses a knock and advances the timing. If the Haynes Manual's explanation of the way the thing works is correct, I dnon't think the differences between a 305 and 350 should make a difference.........

Thanks for your input..... according to Haynes you're correct about BAD GAS and it doesn't do anything if it doesn't "sense" a knock.

Sincerely,
Kurt & Derek

kboehringer

TGO Friends,

How in the heck does one get parts from AutoZone, Advance Auto, Pep-Boys, etc.???

Yesterday Nancy went to A.Zone to get a carb kit... I made sure to tell her "Get one for an '87 Firebird w/Q-Jet. and gave her the carb serial number Fortunately, I checked the serial numbers on the kit instruction sheet BEFORE I opened the actual kit..... WRONG ONE! She also purchased a set of plugs. I forgot to tell her 1974 Chevy Truck 350.... She got 'em..... For an '82 Camaro (probably wrong also)

This is gonna drive us CRAZY. This is how we have to ask for parts since the guy behind the counter don't seem to know how to use a serial number for a part look-up.

1974 Chevy Truck - 350 Engine (Plugs, Etc.)
1983 Pontiac FireBird? - TH700 Transmission (Gaskets, etc.)
1986 Z-28 - Wiring Harness/Emissions
1987 Pontiac Firebird - (Carb)
1984 Camaro - Steering (Hoses, Cooling Loop)
There are probably more examples I could give......

Does anyone else have to deal with this? How in the heck do you do it?

Sincerely,
Kurt

Klortho

You should have seen them earlier tonight at AutoZone, I went in to buy a coil for a '95 Trans Am with an LT1 350 (which I have in my '86 Firebird) then I asked for a fuel filter for an '86 Firebird, the guy looked at me like I was crazy, but had to explain that the LT1 was in the Firebird and blah blah blah. It can be tedious when it comes to what to get at times.

BruceEmbry

I believe you guys are documenting everything that you do. I documented everthing about my conversion when converting to the 350TPI. I have a documentation pack, that lists all parts, part diagames, etc.. So just keep on doing what you are doing and everything will be fine. One place I go to for parts in www.rockauto.com.

Rockauto now has a warehouse in Atlanta, GA. Rockauto prices are lower then Autozone. I just ordered a heater core, EGR valve, etc, from them and everything arrived in two days. I would also sugguest that you stay with AC Delco and GM OEM parts whenever possible.

flyitlikustolit

ac delco makes two things: boxes and spark plugs. they don't make anything else; they just tag their name on other people's products for name recognition.

as far as your question Kurt, i work at autozone, and it's irritating being the only one who knows how to look up stuff and who knows what kinda stuff interchanges. but basically, you have to simplify it, cuz most guys in there have little auto experience. so asking for parts based on the car you got parts out of is a good idea. good luck

91formulaSS

all manufacturers do this with at least some components of their products. at least (with ac delco) you will be getting something that probably came on your car originally. regardless, stick with their oil filters.

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

You can do what I do; its its something unusual, look it up online, and just go in and ask for the part number. They know me so well at the local AutoZone (24hrs, which is nice!) I usually just go back to get some things myself, especially hoses and belts. Remember, they guy behind the counter was probably flipping burgers last week, and knows nothing about cars.

flyitlikustolit

if only you knew how right you are......

24hrs? the one on jimmy carter is 24 hrs..... are you close to that one?

sellmanb

I am not 100% sure, but I believe that they stopped making LG4's in 1986, and went onto the 305 TBI's, and the kit for a TBI would probably look similar to one for a carb at first glance.

The spark plugs should be for whatever heads you have, so you get the correct length and thread count and such.

I'd try a 1986 Camaro 5.0l 305 Carb'd motor for the carb rebuild kit. Then just go to your GM dealer and get different rods and hangars (more on this in the carb board).

It's hard to say what year car you'd be looking for, for a rebuild kit on the 700R4. In 1987 (or '86 I dont remember atm) they switched the number of vanes in the pump or something. If you're rebuilding the 700R4 completely over, then you'll get a new pump anyways, so you should look for a 1990 Camaro/Firebird rebuild kit (you'll find lots of good ones on the internet).


I know exactly what you mean about doing all the dancing around for parts at the store.

Most the time I look them up on the internet first and go in with the parts numbers, makes everone's life easier I've found, but I only recently got my computer back, so I've had to just go in and have them do it... let me tell you, I replace my starter and decided to go with an LT1 starter since I've got headers now, and it blew their minds that you could go from a big 'ol starter (factory sized for our cars) to the LT1 mini starter and still have it work.

Most of the guys there dont know much about cars other than their own, and sometimes not even that. Which is why most of the time I go to NAPA. The people there arent as friendly, but they have more resources, and they have ASE certified parts techs there incase I dont even know what the name of something is called lol.



When I go to auto parts stores I have to have the guys there look up stuff for different cars so often that they think I'm rich with tons of cars or something . I told them I needed spark plugs for a 74 El Camino, carb spacer gasket for an '86 Camaro, dip stick tube for an 73 Camaro, a servo from an 88 Corvette, a starter from a 96 Camaro, etc... and I'm sure most the guys on this board have to do similar tip toeing around at parts stores... so dont worry, you arent alone

kboehringer

TGO Friends,

We just noticed (yesterday) that the flex plates from the 350 and 305 are different sizes. The 350 has about 20 more teeth than the 305. The bigger plate appears to have enough clearance to work with the TH-700 but it sure is close. The Starters obviously bolt up differently and there is a significant weight difference between them. The 305's bolts are parrallel and the 350's are offset slightly.

There is not that much cubic inch difference between 305 and 350. But our 350 may be a tough on a standard starter.
Would a/our 350 require a more powerful starter (torque)?
Has anyone used the bigger flex with the TH700? Problems?

Sincerely,
Kurt

P.S. I have a BRAND NEW 305 STARTER but will need a new .Yard flex (damaged as mentioned in a previous post) My 350s starter looks like it's about out of life, maybe original to the truck it came from.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

168-tooth, 14", vs. 153-tooth, 12-3/4". The starter has to be farther away from the engine centerline with the 14". Can be a problem if you put headers on.

153-tooth is certainly the easier way to go, after you get a different flexplate, of course. They're pretty cheap. The starter shouldn't have any trouble turning over the 350 with the smaller flexplate. But, if you want to use the 14", the nose off of the 350 starter should fit the 305 starter.

DAVECS1

iTrader: (2)

I went through this. it will make it easier to go with a 153 tooth flexplate for a two piece rear main seal. I found on my GTA that the larger one causes some clearance issues with the exhaust and torque converter dust cover. You can go to advance auto parts and get a flexplate for an 86 camaro. I think it is around 40 dollars or so. I would not worry about the starter, I think they are exactly the same.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

'86 would be one-piece rear main seal. Try '83 to '85.

5ltrbtr

About the knock sensor. The way it was explained to me was that GM used two diff ones, the only way you can tell which is which is with an ohm meter.
I think one is 9.8ohms and the other is 4.5 ohms don't quote me on that its been a few months so if you have one of each from the j-yards and niether one works that would let you know if you need a module or not.

sellmanb

I just went to Carquest and asked for a two piece rear main seal 153 tooth flexplate for a 700R4. It probably would have been easier to ask for a 1985 Camaro flexplate.

I also got a starter from an LT1 camaro, these are much better technology-wise, and smaller, which makes them easier to uninstall/reinstall w/o taking out the y-pipe. You can get one from a j. yard pretty easily I bet. Or from a parts store for ~200, I'd suggest one

kboehringer

All TGO Friends,
This evening we worked on the engine bay. As ususal more problems. Brake fluid had been spilled (or had been leaking) down the side of the inner fender and all the paint was bubbled all the way down to the K Member. With a die grinder and some small flapper disks we got all the bubbled paint off and ground out the rust. We may use the rattle can method to finish the repair.

We couldn't get the strut tower top off as the nut holding on the Strut was cross threaded (probably with an impact wrench on maximum). What else would we expect with this Z-28?. We'll be cutting that one off and buying two NEW struts....

FedEx track says the CamShaft will be here tomorrow and the machine shop states that the new springs and keepers will arrive in the A.M. If all goes well.... the engine will be installed on July 4th Weekend!

We've got a good bit more work to do in the engine bay in addition to the final assembly of the long block. We also need to find a few more items at the J.Yard this weekend (nothing that should delay the install except the 153 flex plate)! We've seen ThirdGens without trans but w/flex plate. Hopefully we can find one, otherwise we stop at AutoZone on the way home and buy a new one with the struts.

Thanks for the advice on the 153... We really wanted to use the new starter.... Glad we can!

Thanks for the advice on the Knock Sensor.... Maybe we'll find a 350 in the J.Yard (unlikely). Our fingers are crossed that we do OK with what we have. Otherwise, GMPartsDirect.com... Three weeks for delivery is absolutely unacceptable they've got to be able to do better than that!

Thanks for the advice on AutoZone... Looking up the parts on the I-Net first seems like the way to avoid explaining everything on every visit. We are very fortunate that our A.Zone employs a member of Richard Petty's original pit crew. "Don" is a very knowledgeable older guy. If he isn't there....forget about good advice. NAPA is extremely expensive, in our area they cater to the shops not individuals.

Seems like we spend a lot of time thanking you guys... but it is definately sincere. Thanks Again...

Kurt & Derek

kboehringer

TGO Guys,
We got the rest of the stuff today. Dad went to his office to get the good torque wrench. We should get the enginedone real fast.
Derek

flyitlikustolit

son of a monkey's ***...... that's makin me drool. I'm still waiting on pistons, rods, a flywheel, a timing cover, and piston rings

kboehringer

TGO Friends,

Cam & Lifters, Chain & Sprockets- INSTALLED
Heads - INSTALLED
Intake - INSTALLED

Derek installed the cam sprockets, lifters, push rods, rockers, and intake manifold gaskets. I worked the torque wrench while he verified the proper tightening order was being followed for all three torque sequences on each head (45, 55, 65). The driver side O2 bung needs to be drilled out so we have to get that done to install that header. Still need to get the timing cover installed and purchase a new balancer (when we get the new struts).

It may be a bit early but we've got to start thinking about how to install this thing. We don't want to install anything that will make life more of a hassle or have to be taken off again.

We're gonna keep the wiper mortor, distributor, and Carb off for the lift. It's probably better to put the water pump and accessories on after as well? But we (mostly I) sure would like to intall WITH the tranny. Seems like that would be a bugger though. We tore it out in little pieces but we want to put it in as big as possible. We might be better off just putting the tranny on from under rather than trying to negotiate the entire thing. If we skip the tranny we might be able to put some of the accessories on first?

Ideas? Thoughts?

Sincerely,
Kurt

flyitlikustolit

put it on with the tranny. not as hard as you think. i've R&R 2 drivetrains this way, and found it to be the easiest. also, leave off the accessories, but install the waterpump. gives you a handle to hold.

DAVECS1

iTrader: (2)

I am not sure if the holes line up on an older model, but you may want to look into getting the strut mounts for a 91 GTA. They use a harder durometer bushing to hold the bearing, and the bolt holes fit tighter on the mount. At least on my cat. I was not happy with the brands I got form Advanced auto, Orielly's and Autozone. The rubber was soft and it fit way to loose on the strut tower mounts. I am very particular about my suspension, so this may be a non-issue for you guys.

Also I think Orielly's or the dealer may carry the Racetek struts offered by GM on the GTA. I have actually used these for some road coarse driving, and I must say they are a very good strut for the money. Do not bother with the Racetek reak shocks they have way to much force on the compression side and cause the rearend to hop especially if you have a small sway bar and old bushings

I have to apologize if my info is a little off for your older camaro. I have not worked on the earliest models too much, and quite frankly I did not realize there were that many changes on the chassis itself. Plus I am used to making things work with help from the mig, tig, grinder and mill.

I am 99.9% sure that the 91-92 strut mounts use a different durometer rubber , because I have personally purchase and pulled approximately 15 sets from various years trying to come up with a mount I like. I have used the ground control set up and an aluminum setup, and in both of those I felt it upset the chassis too much when the surface was rough. I think both will work but you would need a custom spring and valve package. At any rate you guys will be on the street and if anything try to get GM pieces they fit better.

flyitlikustolit

autozone, advance, and pep boys cary the same mounts. gabriel or monroe, and they're both owned by tenneco. the same part number fits 82-92, but it's b/c they slotted one hole to make it fit. vs moog, which is a better piece, and it only fits 86-92 models. but it fits right.

sellmanb

Looks like it's coming together quite nicely!

Things I wish I had done differently when I put my motor in...


Put the distributor in (much easier to get it in properly and turn the oil pump driveshaft when on a stand!!), just keep the cap off until it's ready.

Put the water pump on (most of the accessories bolt to it, and it's probably the least convenient accessory to put on

Take out the radiator (dont ask)

Made my fuel line while the timing cover was still off, and the motor was out of the car.

Also hook up the fuel pump on the block... if you dont have a fuel pump on the block then nevermind


I reaaaally wish I had installed my tranny the same time as the engine. All you'd have to do is hover the trans and engine over the engine bay, get a creeper and let the tailshaft lay on that and scoot with it (that way it doesnt scrape on the ground)... then put the driveshaft in, and torque arm in.

I wish I had put my spark plugs in before I put my headers on, and I wish I had put my headers on before I dropped the engine in.

You'll have a lot more maneuvering to do with the dizzy in, the trans on, and the headers on... but it should only take you an extra 5 minutes in the "dropping" process, as compared to the 2 1/2 hours I spent trying to put my headers on, in the car, the 1 hour I took to get my dizzy in the proper position (this includes losing a bolt down the dizzy hole and having to fish it out with a magenetic stick/flashlight. And the 6 hours I spent getting my tranny up (but found a great way to do it under the car in the future).

kboehringer

TGO Friends,

We're trying to assemble as much as possible now and put her in in as big a "chunk" as possible. We've run into a BIG snag with the headers (I knew it was coming). Looks like the ONLY way to go is to cut off the rear leg of the bracket. The entire A/C Steering Hook-Up structure is extremely "Stout" and I can not imagine this being cause for concern. We can make use of the forward side of the bracket by using a sleeve on the bolt (red line on photo).
Does anybody have any reservations about cutting the bracket?
Is there a better way?
We spent a little time searching the site and really wanted a photo but couldn't find one (Five7kid...do you have one of this area from your 305?).
Thanks again,
Kurt

kboehringer

Sellmanb,
Thanks for the list of pointers.... We really needed it.
I wondered about clearance with the dizzy.. with the cap and rotor off it should create only a minor problem. We had a heck of a time ON THE STAND getting the darn thing in. We were just checking everything out... and I wasn't even trying to align with #1...JUST PUTTING IT IN WAS A BUGGER..

Today, I brought home the tubing bender and the flare tools to make Derek's new fuel line while I can sit on a stool with the engine in my face. We definately, want to make that before the hulk is in place. Derek installed the Fuel pump today but after he did it, I wondered how easy the motor mount bolt was gonna be with it in the way... We'll should be able to shove the bolt up from the rear side and it should be ok to leave it in place.

I would have NEVER thought of the creeper trick on the TailStock. That was my only reservation with putting them in together. I was afraid we'd smack it off the pavement and cause some real damage. That is a great pointer. She goes in with the tranny! Thanks!

Got to get up early and get a few more items at the J.Yard.

Thanks again,
Kurt

P.S. TGO Friends we're still looking for a few items that our TGO friends asked us to keep an eye open for. We have a list and we'll keep looking tomorrow...(Fieros, FireBird Switches/Buttons, etc.)

flyitlikustolit

you can cut that off, or you can eliminate the bracket altogether nd use a spacer. i did the second option, and it worked great.

kboehringer

DaveCS1,

We purchased a new set of tower mount brackets from the J.Yard several weeks ago.. Primarily because the driver's side was covered with bubbly paint and rust. We made sure to grab mounts from a newer year to take advantage of any improvements. I believe (although I would have to check with Derek) that we grabbed a set from an 87 or 88.

We're going to replace with struts with the super economy variety for the moment. Once we get some driving under our belt, we'll try to address any shortcomings. The Sway Bushings (F&R), Torque arm and Bushing, Sway Links (F&R), Shocks, Struts, Wheel Bearings, and Brakes are (or will be) all new. In addition the Wonder Bar should be finished in a week or two. Once the car is running reliably, we can complete and install the sub-frame connections. The car should FEEL pretty good with those deficiencies addressed. Although it certainly won't be ready for a road course......

Thanks for the info.
Kurt

911rsq

Here's a pic from my '86 Monte Carlo SS (yeah yeah...I know ). It show's that same bracket cut and a sleeve between the bracket and the header mounting hole. Check your local yards for 80's Monte's with A/C and you will find the sleeve....it's a factory piece...

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You can see pretty much what I had on and off when I pulled the 305 ("Beginning of the End" thread - reposted here).

You're going to have to choose between the starter and fuel pump as to which stays off in order to get the mount bolt in. I voted for the starter, as getting it out of the way helps in other ways. Going in, the starter is much easier to mount with the engine in the car than the fuel pump. I chose water pump off because it isn't hard to do in the car.

Damper on, pulley off. Intake on, distributor and carb off. Headers on and spark plugs in. Converter to flexplate bolts a little easier with engine/tranny in the car.

kboehringer

TGO Friends,

Picture this.........

You're standing at the rear of the engine with your High Power drill attached to an oil pump & engine primer. You THINK you have all the holes plugged and just can't wait to see some oil spurting out of those new pushrods/rockers.......
LET 'ER RIP....few seconds later....NOTHING...
LET 'ER RIP AGAIN...few seconds later NOTHING...
Lean over the head and take a closer look..... MAYBE THERE'S A DRIP OR TWO COMING?
LET 'ER RIP AGAIN...OLD FAITHFUL BLOWS!
OIL EVERYWHERE all over me, Derek, the walls, the floor..... everywhere!!!!

We forgot to install the oil pressure sensor next to the dizzy

We hope somebody got a laugh out of this!

We finally got it all cleaned up... sort of. After installing the sensor we were able to get good flow onto each rocker and assume that oil is in the right places. We'll drill it again just before start-up.

Sincerely,
Kurt & Derek

P.S. Attached a photo of the Oil Pump & Engine primer we made.... Works real well (LOL) and IMPO is probably better than packing the pump.

sellmanb

There's some sick humor that I got out of hearing that lol.

I was expecting that you guys forgot the oil filter and were gunna wear it in your shoes

It sounds like you guys have gotten most of the engine together then if you've got oil in it Just a matter of days now before the final moment of truth

DAVECS1

iTrader: (2)

I do not remeber what rocker arms you used, but if they are roller rockers I would grease them up with a good amount of assmbly lube. You would think being roller you would not have to, but I have put many different kinds on and from what I have observed is that they do not give like the stock ones, so if anything hangs up it creats a great deal of heat and is extremely hard on the rocker arm.

speedingpenguin

iTrader: (1)

haha once again, YA GET DIRTY! I look at it as part of the fun, lol

kboehringer

SellmanB and TGO Friends,
We could probably install the 350 today if we didn't have a few projects to complete in the engine bay. Nothing too big left....
The engine is done....

This weekend Derek and I cleaned up the battery box and D.Side fender area and rattle canned them. Installed new/used: speedo/cruise cable, cruise throttle cable, washer bottle, tower mounts, '88 Iroc Wonder Bar (Good Find - Sat. A.M. - ONLY $5), EGR Solenoid, Power Steering Cool Loop, D.Side DipStick (bitch to find! but got one), modified the A/C bracket, made the Oil Primer, Rebuilt the Carb (still needs a mixture control solenoid, be here Tues.), test fit brackets & such (will remove most for install).

The only REAL project left is to repair the Fuel Supply & Return Lines. The Supply (above tranny) is crushed otherwise we'd probably just leave it alone. The only concern at this point is the Alternator wiring (1-Wire vs 2-Wire) which we'll resolve once the 350's in the hole.

Sincerely,
Kurt & Derek....

speedingpenguin

iTrader: (1)

Freakin sweet, guys!
coming together faster than I thought! christ, you'll be on the road almost the same time as I will be, and you've done 100x more than I did and started AFTER i did too! LOL

flyitlikustolit

no kidding! I'm still staring a brand new crank. I cleaned off the cosmolene and coated it in wd40 to prevent rust while i save for a reciprocating assembly. (wd40 cleans off much easier when it's tim to install it.) no matter. good luck guys

911rsq

I'm jealous now. I worked all weekend to get my engine together. I wish you guys would come up here and put mine together....
She's sittin on the stand now waiting for pushrods......

That oil pump primer appears to be an old distributor. How did you modify (extend) it to work?

kboehringer

911rsq,

It is an old distributor. There is no need to EXTEND anything since the Distributor/Cam Worm run the pump anyway.

Just take an old distributor and remove EVERYTHING from the top, there will be plenty of shaft there to attach a 1/2" drill. Remove the gear/pump coupling and cut /grind the worm portion off (we have access to a lathe so it looked better than grinding). If you didn't remove the gear's teeth, the shaft would lock up on the cam. Put it all back together......

FYI........According to our machine shop if you try to use just the inner shaft without the dizzy casing it will not pump up all the way to the top. I suppose there must be a oil port in the block that needs to be blocked by the dissy's O.D.....

Sincerely,
Kurt

kboehringer

TGO Friends,

We're just tinkering around waiting for the "Big Day"... Saturday's Install.....

We've been running plug wires around the engine trying to figure out the best routing to avoid damage from the headers. We noticed Accel "Shorty Plugs" at the local Autozone and figure we're gonna have to go with those unless we can find another plug that's a little shorter than standard. Derek and I just finished a Search of the TGO site and have found and read multiple articles about them. Seems the general consensus is that the Accel shorties will work just fine if we make sure to tighten the caps before install.

Seems the girl at A.Zone messed up the order for our carb part the Wells MS102 misture solenoid shares the same part number as a set of Perfoemance Intake Gaskets.... If that wasn't bad enough the correct part is actually $90 rather than the $10.99 we paid in advance for the wrong one..... Guess we're gonna try to find a good solenoid at the J.Yard first.

We still have some tinkering to do and a few brackets yet to figure out.... Can't wait till Saturday.....

Sincerely,
Kurt & Derek (yep...Still Awake)

911rsq

This makes me Soooooooooooooooooo happy . The one coming out of the old engine is shot anyway!!

Everyone..... Kurt just saved me big money on my car insurance...errrr, engine oil primer!!!!!

kboehringer

911rsq,
Please learn from our mistake.... Make sure you're completely ready for oil Pressure Sensor, Filter, Etc.....or you'll be completely covered in oil.
Sincerely,
Kurt