Is anyone running this setup? It looks like a really good setup for a stroker. I was surprised that not many people are using this engine. Is it the price or is GM Crate Engines not as good as advertised??? According to one of the writeups (Jegs) it can be retrofitted to a TPI system. Also plays nice with a 700R4... "It is possible to retrofit this engine with a L98/LB9 TPI system. Special intake manifold 12498060SD along with 24 lb. injectors PTE24 must be used (Available through GM Performance Parts). Custom computer re-programming is also necessary".

your paying a good bit for that motor and its mostly cuz the crank

its a 3.8 inch forged crank that GM sells for like 1100 bucks while the rods and pistons are about similar to the ZZ4 which is alot less money and still has forged crank.

for the price you can get a fairly stout 383 built

i dont think its worth what they are sellin it as

I've seen it as low as $4700. I started out pricing a new engine from the block up, but man it is expensive. A good iron block will cost about $2000. Get a nice crank $800 and a set of heads $1300. Connecting rods $350 and pistons $600. I'm already up to $5000... I think most of the swap I'm on my own. Growing up in the 80s, the performance shops were abundant. Now everyone wants to work on ****

You can do much better with an eagle rotating kit, a block, and some off the shelf trick flow heads.

Iron blocks don't cost $2,000, but the gm bow tie blocks do, is that what you are talking about? Thezz430 motor is just a regular stock cast iron block that you can find in any junk yard for $250.

http://www.coasthigh.com/Assemblies/Chev/chev_383.htm

Get the $1999 short block and put some trick flow heads on it for another $1000.

The 383 short block is $3,150 from most chevy dealers. You will need heads, valvetrain, oil pan, and intake manifold to complete. At least you won't have to recycle and parts on e-bay.....

Thanks for the info GTA/Paul...

I've giving up the search for anything easy. I guess I will just invest in an engine stand and start piecing one together.

The $2000 block was a Dart Way too expensive.
I did find a World Products Motown block for $1700 looks very nice.

Any comments on the following combination:
Engine Block:
World Products - Motown SB-Chevy Cast Iron Block
specs:
Material: High density cast iron
Deck Height: 9.025'' (standard Chevy)
Deck Thickness: .600'' minimum
Cam Bearings: Standard Chevy (350 and 400 style)
Camshaft Location: Stock
Lifter Bores: Indexed (stock .8437'' bore)
Bore: 3.990'' (hone to 4.000'') or 4.115'' (hone to 4.125'')
Maximum Bore: 4.200''
Cylinder Wall Thickness: .250'' @ 4.200'' bore
Water Jackets: Expanded for better cooling
Lubrication: Priority main oiling system
Oil System Features: Integral boss for front feed, boss for rear scavange. Rear main cap has provisions for wet sump pump
Filtration: Integral mount for spin-on filter
Oil Pan Rails: Solid (stock width) can be clearanced for strokers
Crank Clearance: 4.000'' stroke (with H-Beam steel rods)
Main Caps: Nodular iron 4-bolt (7/16'') with dowels
Fuel Pump: OEM mount
Starter: OEM mount
Motor Mounts: Dual (front and side)
Cylinder Head Holes: Blind tapped to prevent leaks
Weight: Approximately 190 lbs.

Rotating assembly:
Eagle - Street And Strip Rotating Assembly
specs:
Chevy 383 - 1 Piece Rear Seal
Piston: Flat Top @ -7cc
Comp Ratio:
58cc Head- 11.7:1
64cc Head- 10.9:1
76cc Head- 9.6:1
Includes balancer and flexplate

Cylinder heads:
GM Performance Parts - Aluminum Vortec SBC Heads
specs:
Intake Runner Volume: 210cc
Combustion Chamber Volume: 62cc
Valve Diameter: 2.00'' Int./ 1.55'' Exh.
Spark Plugs: Angled

I need to do some more research. The Brodix heads look nice also...

PS: Paul, nice website...

Are you going to be assembling all of these components (cam, pistons, con rods, crank, etc., etc., etc.) yourself or are you going to pay somebody to do it?

Before you think you can do this for less than what the factory is selling those short blocks, you'd better check on the cost of assembly.

I had to replace the 2.8 in my Jeep a few years ago. I paid $1700 for a 3.4. I had a number of rebuilders tell me that they couldn't rebuild that 2.8 "and do it right" for the price of that crate motor from GM.

That was why I originally was considering a crate engine.

Yes, I am going to do the assembly and the installation. My main concern is the PROM tuning. I have no experience in tuning Fuel Injected engines.

I am still considering that ZZ383, I am just working on some other areas now (suspension, trans)... I would love to find someone that is using the ZZ383 with a TPiS Mini-Ram or an Accel Super Ram. It looks like an awesome combination, but expensive...

You know that the Super Ram is the only one that's smog legal, right?

That 383/425 is a pretty impressive motor (it's the one I'm saving for) and, supposedly, GM is coming out with a Ram Jet 430 (which, unfortunately, may not be smog legal) but which may be even more impressive.

I wouldn't underestimate a crate motor. Have you checked the prices on gmpartsdirect.com? Unfortunately, they gouge on the shipping. Paul says that you can get that short block for just over $3,000 at a Chevy dealer (that's what my dealer charges). You may pay sales tax, but you will avoid the shipping charge.

I was surprised that this engine is not very common. I think I'm going to hold on to mine for a while and save also. That engine with a Super Ram would be perfect for me.

Jegs - $4799
GMPartsDepot - $4965
SDPC - $4789
Everett Chevrolet - $4829
Bobby Murray Chevrolet - $4699
I don't see it listed on GMPartsDirect.com

I'm keeping my eyes on that crate engine...

For a mere $10,000, you too can own a turnkey SD 383/425 with a Super Ram and 405 horsepower.

SDZZ383EFI 405HP ZZ383EFI High Performance Series Street and Strip Engine $9,995.95

Edit: Doesn't 405 horsepower sound a little low for a Super Rammed 383? I guess it depends on the rpm.

Re-edit: Horsepower : 405 @ 4900 RPM
Torque : 480 @ 3900 RPM

480 foot pounds of torque at 3900 rpm. That's not too shabby.

Unfortunately you can build the motor to have that TQ at the same RPM and 500hp at 6000 peak - its all in the combination. Good HP for such a low RPM though.

What kind of HP and TQ would you expect from this? Will the TPI setup bolt up to these heads?

I have a 1992 Z28 convertible 5 speed with a zz383 short block, RHS heads, TPIS mini Ram and zz409 cam. It dynoed at 480hp. I love it, it is very streetable with lots of torque, and very fun! It ran close to $10,000 all said and done. It was built by TPIS. I think they would have preferred building there own short block. (406 C.I.D.) but I went with the 383 short block since this dropped the price about $2,000. The zz383 complete from GM or short block in my opinion is a good value.

I realize this is not on alot of minds, but what kind of fuel economy do you get? I have a 1991 Z28 with a tpi305 and a T56 and 3.42 richmonds. I also drive 25 miles to work one way. I was thinking about the ZZ383 and I was looking on ebay and found this ebayStore;

http://stores.ebay.com/muscle-car-cr...Q3amesstQQtZkm



they have some 383 combos that make more power, and are considerably cheaper. I am just concerned with gas mileage.

Unless you are doing something just ridiculous, you don't need a 2000 block. You don't need a crazy forged crank either. Just my .02.
People spend a stupid amount on money for parts that you are never ever going to get close to pushing the limits on. I realize some people just like to say I spent 4000 on a short block. I would say why in the hell would you do that.

I don't mean to flame at all. I just think stock/mild parts setup properly will last a long time.

Good luck with your build.