Engine SwapEverything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.
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I have been trying to research a new motor for my camaro and I have been looking at a 377. The thing is I like different motors and not a lot of people do a 377 or atleast the one I am thinking of(or atleast not that I can find). I was thinking of a 350 block with a 400 crank that has 3.750" stroke and 5.7" rods. the only 377 motors I can find about online are ones that people built with 400 blocks and 350 cranks and have detrsoked. I was just curiuos if I might be able to find some input on this combination. this motor isn;t really for anything in specific, its just like I said I like to have the odd cubid inches and a lot of people to 383s. anything would be help full. thank you
383 = that same motor, with the (usually necesary) overbore
So anything that you hear or see about a 383, applies to that, because it's exactly the same.
I would NOT recommend using a stock 400 crank, or stock 5.7 rods. The 400 crank will require external balance flywheel and damper, which is a PITA; and its main journals will have to be cut down .200". But if you use 5.7" rods, then there's enough room for the full counterweights on the crank, which won't fit with the stock 5.565" 400 rods; but on stock 350 rods, the rod bolts will hit the block and require MASSIVE clearancing.
By the time you get through spending yur way around all the obstacles, you'll find you'll have more money, trouble, and risk (of things like grinding through to a water jacket...) tied up in it, than if you just bought an Eagle or Scat 383 crank & rods. Which, even the CHEAPEST rods & crank from a brand-name mfr like those, are FAR better than stock stuff anyway.
__________________ Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate. — William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi
Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:
The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.
I was defenitly going to go with aftermarket rods, crank, and pistons because to me its just better and stronger and if done right can provide better reliability. but like I said I kinda like the odd cubic inch motors that not many people do so if I found a good 350 block that I wouldn't have to overbore, i figured(or hoped) i would be in business
well I am not sure exactly what clearnancing will have to be done. but I am saying that everything bottom end motor will be aftermerket. it just seemed to me that if people build 383 strokers all day and technically the only difference is they have their cylinder walls bored .030 over, there is no reason why I wouldn;t be able to build just a 377 which is the same thing just not bored .030 over. but like I said, i was just curiuos and was looking for a little input from others that may have more experience with stroking sbc
a 377 stroker is a 350 block, STANDARD BORE, with a 400 crank.. the .030" over bore makes it the 383.. and most people dont do a 377 because the blocks they use NEED to be bored out.. if you buy a new block then you can do a 377 because the block does not need to be bored..
__________________
1984 Trans Am
385sbc(RIP)/t-5/4.30-9"
1.69-7.44-11.65 @ 116
next up-->383 with mild upgrades
The stock 5.7" 350 rods require massive clearancing? After market (still 5.7" rods) don't? Or do you mean aftermarket capscrew rods or something?
What I think he's referring to is that with the 5.7" rod the piston is far enough from the crank that the counterweights on the crank can be big enough to balance the rotating assembly internally.