Engine SwapEverything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
I swapped a TBI car and put a TPI 305 VIN F in it, I grabbed a 01227730 ECM for it and put my chip into the ECM for the car, but its only cranking, the injectors wont open... What could be the problem here?
Well, situation is this. I switched the whole system over, but a loose wire created an arch which fried the original TPI ECM. So i grabbed a 01227730 from a Sunbird LE and took the sunbird PROM out. Put in my Firebird 305 PROM. So now its just cranking still. Which it will do with the fried ECM in it...
Are you getting power to the injectors? They should be "hot" with the key on. Meaning they get power with the key on. When you crank it over the other side of the wires will be grounded by the ECM.
Are you getting spark?
Are all the grounds hooked up?
Start with the basic's.... If you've wired somthing up wrong to where you toasted the ECM then it might have taken out the module as well as other parts... What wire got grounded?????
Check all your fueses too!
~Scott
__________________ 427 RHS block 98mm turbo 4L80E going back to a torque arm. In progress!
Im getting spark, fuses are fine. If i spray carb cleaner into the intake it wants to fire up.
The wire didnt ground, the guy messing with it forgot to take the battery charger off of the start option and the rumble of the car moved the MSD hot wire which was only clamped to the terminal. It sparked and the car shut off, we investigated and the ECM was down. Weird part is the ignition is working..
Only thing that isnt working is my injectors. They arent firing, so maybe the ECM isnt grounding them out like it should? Ill test that.
Are there other possibilities? Im trrying to follow the wiring diagram to see if theres somewhere it couldnt blown a connector or wire but so far nothing is bad except the relay box by the AC Evaporator had burn marks in it, so I switched it out.
How do you test if the ECM is grounding the injectors out? How can you tell if the ECM is the problem? The reason im asking is that my injectors are only pulsing on one side and i can't figure out why? Fuses are good in it.
did you check the ecm fuse at the battery? if it is bad, all it will do is crank. are you sure it is injectors and not fuel pump? you did change the fuel pump to the proper pump i assume?
pump is the 5.7 engine pump, it should be the same. The pressure in the rail is fine and it you spray fluid in the intake it tries to fire. The fuse by the battery, the 20A is fine... But ill replace it anyway and see. I dont know im clueless at this point.
----------
I mean all that has to work, because it fired for a good three minutes before the ECM blew and i cant think of anything besides that power arch that couldve blown the ECM. All my grounnds are in too.
Last edited by Crawforj; 10-25-2007 at 06:48 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I think you should hit the DIY PROM board. Reason being that when they swap ECMs they often must "re-pin" the wiring harness inside the connector to get the proper wires lined up with the proper ins/outs from the ECM.
These ECMs are not plug-n-play. If you just drop a TPI computer in a TBI car or vice-versa it doesn't work without a few wire swaps....
__________________ "Towering genius disdains a beaten path. It seeks regions hitherto unexplored."
--Abraham Lincoln
You mean the place where the PROM plugs in? So i may have to repin the PROM connection? Because the wiring harness is from the TPI car. Which ran with the original TPI ECM. Or are you saying the new ECM might be wired differently and ill have to repin the connector so the wires are going the right places?
So your using a Throttle body harness with a TPI engine? or the entire TPI Harness?
I know some guys use the Sunbird ECM in the Sy/Ty's.
You'd be safer to use a "noid" light from the parts store to check the injectors for power when cranking.
If you've got spark but no "grounds" to the injectors then it's a wiring problem. There will be power on both sides of the injector clips untill it's turned over. When that happens the ECM grounds the other side of the injector cilp to fire the injector at the right time VIA the injector drivers.
(The pink/blk) wire will show power when key on/cranking. Other side will show power with key on... but should "pulse" or ground when turned over.
If your not using a TPI harnessw/TPI prom/Computer I'd guess there's going to be some research on how to get it to fire the injectors correctly.
~Scott
__________________ 427 RHS block 98mm turbo 4L80E going back to a torque arm. In progress!
Im using a TPI harness on a TPI engine with a sunbird 01227730 ECM and the TPI prom from the same 305. So maybe my grounds arent good enough so its not grounding the injectors so they can fire? Il ltry some things tonight with the grouund wires.
The wire that burnt up was a grorund wire so im thinking it wasnt grounded very well or came ungrounded? im not sure how wiring works to be honest...
Ok, i moved the ground wires from the firewall to the egnine block, I also found a connection that was broken. I rewired the connection and pulled out the lifetime warranty on the distributor and replaced it. Now i have fuel to one side but not the other. Atleast I think so, I smell fuel now and when i take out plug number 1 it has fuel on it and smells like fuel, but plug number 2 has nothing or just not enough to really decide.
But, even if the one side has fuel and spark, wouldnt the engine still fire up or atleast make an attempt to? Its still just cranking...
Need to grab one of the inexpensive Noid lights to check if your getting injector pulse. They are at Advance auto or Auto Zone. I don't think they are very expensive.
Hook it up right there at each injector connector and see if your getting a pulse.
Are you sure you put the Dist. in the right place? Setting it up on #1 TDC (Top dead center) on the compression stroke and putting the rotor towards #1 cyl.. (front driver side)
Easy way to check:
Have a buddy tap the key with the #1 plug out.... put your finger lightly where #1plug would go... as he taps it over it'll puff your finger off the hole. That's the compression stroke. line up the timing mark with 0 on the ballancer and look where the rotor is pointing. Make sure it's on #1.
*Make sure the power wire is off the dist. so you don't get zapped *
Allign it on #1 if it's off and re-try.
Sounds like your close... and sorry if you already know the above stuff.
Were the valves already set or did you do that? Just checking there... Is it a MAF car or Speed Density(MAP).
Make sure it's plugged in and no leaks between T-body and MAF if it's that system.
Report back.. or e-mail me direct.. I'll give you my PH# so I can walk you through getting it runing.
~Scott
__________________ 427 RHS block 98mm turbo 4L80E going back to a torque arm. In progress!