M1tch

Whats up guys i'm trying to build a motor as efficiently and the most cost effective way i can. I've been looking at motors around 400hp and i've found some nice crate motors on ebay for around $3500 turn key assembly. Mostly 383 strokers and a few 350s. Is that the cheapest i could probably do that will give me some type of warranty? Summit is horrible pricing motors for $6500 screw that.. There are also some verrry cheap 700r4s stage 2 (550hp) on ebay backed with a 1 year warranty for only $750 w/ free shipping. So with the mods i have to do to gut out tbi and switch to carb im guessing i need $6000 to do everthing right. any input? Is building a motor relatively that much cheaper?

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1992 RS Heritage Edition
350 OE Roller Bored .060 over
Holley 650 (needs tuned)
1" Carb Spacer
Edelbrock Performer RPM
Vortec Shaved Heads 10.5:1 Compression
Beehive springs
Stock Steel Rockers (need some new ones)
Speed Pro Flat Top Pistons
Stock Rods
Comp XR 270 .502 lift (2 degrees retarded)
Comp Lifters
Stock rear end and gears
My 1992 Camaro RS Heritage Edition

five7kid

The biggest advantage of building it yourself is being able to choose exactly what goes into the package.

Not far behind is knowing it was done right. There's a member who has been documenting his woes on the Tech forum who just found out his 383 was put back together (for the 3rd time, if memory serves) with a broken piston.

I always say figure on spending as much money supporting the power as you spend on making it. Tranny is a big part of that, including torque converter.

KrisW

Whew! Boy, I guess everybody has a different idea of what the term "budget build" means!

Budget build in your needs (400 hp) means this to me:

350 short block, 1987 and up, roller cam, rebuilt by me with forged pistons, pm or used rods (performance type), LT4 hotcam (used, most likely) and a good roller type timing chain. Stock Z28 style oil pump.

Vortec heads, freshened up with a valve job and some high lift springs with guides cut down for high lift OR 305 LG4 or TPI heads with the same mods

Performer RPM intake with 750 cfm TBI unit (probably from eBay) and in tank vortech fuel pump.

Used Laptop to run the tuner Pro stuff that the DIY PROM guys use to tune the setup.

The only thing worth paying full price for (as far as I'm concerned; some people love new stuff) are the 1 3/4 headers that Dyno don sells on this site. I like the SLP's if you can get them used but they're hard to find.

Starting with this engine will save all of the machine work to the bottom end and provide the heads with only the valve guides to be cut and high lift springs installed.

http://www.sdparts.com/product/12530...er8500GVW.aspx

I would only replace the cam with an LT4 hot cam and put forged pistons (if that) in it and then bolt on my intake and exhaust.

You will think you bought a new car. On a budget...

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