Engine SwapEverything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.
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Last year i bought a 350 4-bolt gen2 block remanufactured by liberty performance, and when i ordered it i had them clearance it for a 3.75" stroke...
Last sunday i bought a 90 iroc with a blown 350. I am using the L98 heads and the tpi but the rest will be aftermarket. I ant to know if i should go with the 350 .030 or go ahead with the 383? Anyone? pros & cons will be very much appreciated.
When I built mine from a Chevy 350 the only clearance issues that I had were that the crankshaft, being a 400, ran into the walls of the block; this was easily fixed by grinding some metal near the oil pan out. I never had any issues with anything else as far as clearance goes, but it was only my first and I may gotten a lucky block
The usual places where additional clearance is required are the oil pan rails, and the bottoms of the cylinder bores. Depending on the what cam and rods are used, there may or may not be clearance problems between the rod shoulder and the cam lobes.
i have a stroker with H-beam rods.. h-beams are more prone to having problems than I beam.. i run an off the shelf comp solid flat tappet cam with NO problems.. my machine shop ground down the bolt and a part of the rod to make clearance, then balanced it out and i'm sittin pretty..
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1984 Trans Am
385sbc(RIP)/t-5/4.30-9"
1.69-7.44-11.65 @ 116
next up-->383 with mild upgrades
My 350 block has been professionally clearanced, so thats no problem. I am worried about the rods smackin on the cam. I have heard about rods made especially for strokers, but I dont know if i really need them.
i have a stroker with H-beam rods.. h-beams are more prone to having problems than I beam.. i run an off the shelf comp solid flat tappet cam with NO problems.. my machine shop ground down the bolt and a part of the rod to make clearance, then balanced it out and i'm sittin pretty.. 
