Engine SwapEverything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.
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First of all you do need to bore the block out .030". The mix of parts after that depend on which way you want to go.
Old school 383 was a longer stroke 400 crank. Using a cast factory 400 crank needs the mains turned down to fit into a 350 block but you can buy an aftermarket forged stroker crank considering it's getting hard to find a 400 engine and if you do, you build a 400 (406) with it.
Now you have a blocked bored out and a stroker crank. Again, old school was using the shorter 400 con rods with stock 350 pistons (+.030). To use the longer 5.700" 350 rods, you need special stoker pistons which move the wrist pin up into the oil ring of the piston. Either configuration will work. It just depends on your budget.
Simply boring out a 350 block 0.030" makes a 355. You need the stroke to make it a 383.
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Hardtail Racing
All engine, no power adders! Bests: 9.029@150.45 (at altitude)
Theoretical sea level performance 8.623@157.05
Bore the cylinders 0.30" over, and you'll be in the water jacket. 0.030" is a different story (and the correct value).
The crank you linked is a standard 350 replacement crank. 3.48" stroke. For a 383, you have to use a 3.75" stroke crank with the cylinders bored .030" over.
The pistons you linked are 4.000" diameter, which is the stock bore. If you bore it .030" over, those pistons will be too small. And, they are for a 350, not a 383.
The rods you listed are fine, for either a 350 or 383, but only if the pistons are for a 350 or 383. You can use 350 pistons with a 3.75" crank if you use 400 rods, though.
Bore the cylinders 0.30" over, and you'll be in the water jacket. 0.030" is a different story (and the correct value).
The crank you linked is a standard 350 replacement crank. 3.48" stroke. For a 383, you have to use a 3.75" stroke crank with the cylinders bored .030" over.
The pistons you linked are 4.000" diameter, which is the stock bore. If you bore it .030" over, those pistons will be too small. And, they are for a 350, not a 383.
The rods you listed are fine, for either a 350 or 383, but only if the pistons are for a 350 or 383. You can use 350 pistons with a 3.75" crank if you use 400 rods, though.
Bore the cylinders 0.30" over, and you'll be in the water jacket. 0.030" is a different story (and the correct value).
The crank you linked is a standard 350 replacement crank. 3.48" stroke. For a 383, you have to use a 3.75" stroke crank with the cylinders bored .030" over.
The pistons you linked are 4.000" diameter, which is the stock bore. If you bore it .030" over, those pistons will be too small. And, they are for a 350, not a 383.
The rods you listed are fine, for either a 350 or 383, but only if the pistons are for a 350 or 383. You can use 350 pistons with a 3.75" crank if you use 400 rods, though.
cant use that kit my block is a 4 bolt main with a one piece rear main seal thanks tho. I will see if the kit comes in a one piece rear main seal. Thanks for all you help everyone
check out summitracing.com and type in the search bar 383 crank they sell complete rotating assembly kits to convert it to a 383. all the parts are balanced and you know they will work together.. might not be the cheapest but its definiatly easier. my buddies about to pick one of these kits up to rebuild a motor for his derby cars
