Hello, I started to work on my interior, I re painted my trims, used 0.7" noise isoliation and 0.5" heat isolation and original carpet. Here are the photos:

I'd like to see more on the install of this cage, also that's an 8pt correct. You stated 10pt in your original post. Anyway I am looking into getting Spohns chrome moly 8pt cage for myself. I was wondering if you got the side bars to clear oem handles, as it appears you do. Also how was fitment and if possible post some pictures of the install. Any problems, concerns, something you would do different? Thank you.

Yes, I was planning on making it 10 point but It would take so much effort so I stayed with 8.

I bought the OEM side bars but they weren't exactly clearing the handles, I needed to do some bendings...

People weld the back bars on the sheet metal covering the fuel tank, but I weled them on the strut beginnings to get have more feeling...

I do not have detail pictures of the install because It was done in another shop. But ı do have some pictures, I will post them later...

The most important thing was the weldin to the car. You should be very careful at the back, because it is to close to the fuel tank, ıt may explode... And the lover front welds melted my undercar coatings so I needed to re coat the weld marks...

here is the progress:

Hello,

I wanted to tell you the progress...

I replaced my oil pan and we are ok about the clearance. I did my shopping=) I bought QA1 double adjustable coilover kit with 225 lbs spring rate to back. Yellow koni's (qa1's and varishocks were extremely expensive...). 2" drop spindles from racecraft. Extended ball joints from QA1, Jegs Panhard bar relocator and finally 1200lbs Eibach front springs, ...

I changed all suspension bars with Spohn del sphere double adjustable bars (LCA,Panhard, Torque arm)

Now what I am asking from you is how those differences effect the car? For example, I changed the distance between rear tires and front tires (I equalized them with computer alignment) The car felt very bad, It was all over the place, front nose dive was ok but rear... omfg. I was changing lanes very rapidly and rear felt like a snake, It was comming after the nose enters, It did not feel rigid. That is what I experienced.

I want to learn what lowering the panhard bar does to car or incresing the a arm angle, or incresing the rebound-compression values of the shocks...

Help me out=)

Some chassis imporevments are in this link: http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/su...ml#post4521918 (Racing springs (900lbs) and its diameter)

(Picking the right rated springs, coilovers, weigh jacks, 2" drop spindles adjustable ball joints etc...)

There are aftermarket panhard bars that give you better clearance for exhaust.

Changing the A-arm angle moves the instant center of the suspension.

Awesome car you're putting together there.

Thanks a lot=) I am trying to do my best with the help of yours... I guess It would be much better and much more stable when it is finished...

Here are the updates::


Front shocks and bump steer kit (adjustable koni yellow's)




a arm angles:


Rear LCA relocation brackets and rear coil over conversion(double adjustable QA1's):




Weigh Jacks: (I still did not recieve my drop spindles, adjustable del sphere a arms, adjustable ball joints and front springs so I did not installed them)

with different tires and ride height pictures:








old rear tires: kumho 275 40 18
new rear tires: pirelli pzero rosso 275 45 18

front dimensions are the same

http://www.streetfire.net/video/su-r...me_2040823.htm

the day will come...

not too far...

Love the music and negatives.

I still have the same problem with my big block camaro. I'm having a little difficulty understanding your fix for the problem. Which bracket did you grind down? Thanks alot and sweet ride man. That must have been a good chunk of money!

I did not grind any brackets; I just drilled a conic shaped holesto the standart bolt places and used flat headed conin shape bolts. I cnc machined the pulley.

when you do down on pully diameter, it will hit to the ragular hex type bolt heads, you need to open a conic hole and use the exact size bolt to not to cause height difference.

TTT ... I think this thread is one of those that should never be forgotten..

I am going back to my 30tpifor the winter and I will upgeade the 502...

I have a few questions though,

Can I use the new 502 wiring to 305 tpi? All of the injectors, water, map, throttle positon, air flow sensor sockets are the same but only one issue is confusing me...


As you can see in the picture 502 wiring has 2 sockets for the ecm. there is no such thing on the 305, so if I connect all the other stuff and leave those 2 ecm sockets, will the engine run?

and in the first picture, I am holding a hose from throttle bodies, do you know where does it belong?

that line is most likely either EGR, Vapor Canister or to the booster... you need an emissions diagram...

I already took off the air stuff, egr and put heades on it and also canceled the air conditioning, so I will not need it I guess...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEi-8wsWpWA
www.trackdayturkey.com
I am one of the owners of the site...

here is the generel video of our trackday, i am still with the 305cui... but it handles like !FSDF%T&
CRAZY.... I had a modifed corvette and a new camaro ss in front of me and I always reached them in corner but on staights.. mmpphh, the gap again increased...

and also you can find photos in facebook group of ours...
http://www.facebook.com/#!/home.php?...09413699142880

i think you had your motor mounts switched around on the first install of 502 they are differnet and i think that a 140 casting number is drivers and other one is passsengers i hope someone will back me on this tho. great build looks great doesnt look like you can do much more lol. how did you mount your sparco's and how do you like not being able to adjust the tilt? thanks