Engine SwapEverything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Hello all,
After putting the used 350 into my car with a XE-274 and stock converter, I wished I had went with a higher stall. (500 RPM idle. WOO!) Anyways I'm going to trash the 350 due to lifter tick, very low oil pressure and lots of blow-by. (If anyone wants it it's yours for $500) I'm tired of disappointments, so I want to go with a Crate GM H.O 330 HP engine this summer. My question is, what stall converter would match up to this cam? Dual Pattern Cam (Lift: .435" Int/.460" Exh, Duration @ .050": 212° Int/222° Exh) I don't know much about cams and don't want to make the same mistake twice. Thanks for the help!
This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on ThirdGen!
Sponsored Links
Registered users do not see this ad. Click here to register for free!
For less money you can get a new 12530282, which is the same long-block assembly except it comes with the hydraulic roller lifters and all the stuff they require. For $2185, it's a much better deal.
I have a feeling I'd want to tear into the engine you're referring to in search of a few more ponies. I want an engine I don't ever have to touch. Yes, the engine would save me roughly $500, but the hassle of getting more power out of it doesn't seem worth it. I had my fun experimenting with my last engine, and even with professional help it still ended up badly. It's time for something reliable that I won't have to tinker with. When I can afford to tear an engine apart multiple times I'll buy a builder.
What's wrong with non-roller lifters? I don't know much about engines so don't think I'm challenging your intelligence by any means, but I know many many engines were non-rollers and had no problem pushing 200k+ miles. One of which I know personally to be the $1519.99, questionable 260 hp engine from Jegs. Over 100k on that engine with no problems. If I could afford risking voiding the warranty on a crate then I would go with the one you're suggesting and put in different parts, but to me the warranty is one of the biggest reasons to buy a crate.
The trouble now with non-rollers is the oil companies took all the ZDDP out of the oil. Yes, you can buy bottles of additive and pour one in every time, but there still remains the possibility of killing a lobe, then you create so much metal debris that it clogs the filter and the bypass opens, then you send the metal all through the engine. With roller lifters, this absolutely cannot happen. It's entirely up to you, and you may never have a problem, but too many of my customers have.
What do you think about long term usage of diesel oil in a flat tappet engine?
I read in CarCraft about the "330 HP GM H.O" actually being a little underrated from the factory; what do you think the 12530282 could make in comparison to it with no internal mods? Also, would it even be worthwhile if left stock in a car application? I think you're starting to sell me on this engine, but I just thought of something... What's the best intake manifold for this engine?
I like the idea of the roller crate 12530282, but what kind of power could I expect out of it stock with just a RPM Air Gap, Holley DP, an aftermarket ignition, and full 3" exhaust?
The EcoDYME
