Why not mount an external holley blue/black? The higher pressure pumps dont like being regulated down to 6 or 7 PSI with a bypass regulator.

This is the first I've heard of that. I don't have any proficiency at modifying hard fuel lines and I want to retain a high pressure pump (at least for the time being) so I can convert to ACCEL gen 7 DFI down the road (I already have the controller and harness, just not the intake, fuel rails, throttle body).

Ultimately I want a fuel system that is high capacity, and flexible enough to facilitate multiple fuel air configurations. I may wind up running a intercooled centrifugal supercharger with the accel dfi or a weiand 6-71 with two carbs (or DFI).

I had not wanted to replace the entire fuel system but if it isn't terribly difficult then I'm not against it.

I haven't done it or seen it but,IIRC 1 thread about dropping the tank is a PITA bcuz rear susp basicaly has to hang & xaust taken off behind the cat.
I was thinking of getting a sump welded on.
Maybe it's more economical than a 16 gal Jaz type cell.

When I put the TPI 383 in this car a few years back I dropped the tank to install the walbro pump thats in there now. It wasn't that hard for me as I already had a shorter exhaust system installed. I don't like exhuast systems that route over the axle. I prefer they termiate in front of the rear tires. Seemed like useless weight to me.

It sucks to have to do it, but it isnt hard. People just cry too much, they need to suck it up and stop cutting these cars up.

I'm using the Holley Blue w//reg set @ 6.5lbs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbuKzXnzdDU

Well we tore into the tank over the weekend. Turns out the fuel hose between the pump and the fuel level sender assembly deteriorated. I also went ahead and replaced those worn out spark plugs with some platinums. She ran good for about a day and now its runnin bad again. It does move under its own power though so its an improvement . You know what they say, "The devil is in the details".

Wow, check pressure again?

Yeah I dialed it back in at 6.5 psi and tuned the carb again. It ran awesome last night, but today ...... not so much. I'll look again tonight after work.

I'm learning alot from you guys.
The pump is good,intank fuel feed is good,fuel dlvry is good.
Floats set,return is good.
How are the new platnum plugs--show rich or lean?
How do you feel about the MSD?
Best of luck!!

Well I found the problem. That electric choke I never hooked up.... it closed on me. It runs pretty good now. I think shes still a little on the fat side. This weekend I'm gonna remove all the choke stuff and install that MSD knock warning kit.

On the 15th I'm gonna see If I can't score a T5/T56 (I already have all the T5 conversion parts) and finally order those sanderson headers.

I don't have my AFR gauge installed yet so I don't know for sure how its running. The plugs cured my intermittent miss when the engine loaded up.

I love that MSD digital programmable 6A box. It sucks getting used to referencing timing by how much RETARD you are running but I love being able to completely recurve the whole thing in just a couple seconds on a laptop.

I called sanderson headers and talked to their technician and those headers that fill "all camaros" only fit first and second gen big block camaros. So I think I'm gonna hold off on putting headers on this thing until I get the full tubular k member/a arms on it for more clearance.

I was bidding on a LT1 T56 changover on ebay and got sniped so now I think I'm gonna buy this WC T5 off another cat on this forum. I already have all the parts for that except the two peice RMS flywheel and the balance plate. I don't power shift my car and I don't run sticky tires ( for fear of breaking my one wheel peel 7.5 diff) so I think it'll hold up for a while. Long enough for me to acquire a retro-fit t56 any way. I kinda need the overdrive for my 1800 mile trip to mississippi in april.

I had the return springs in my LR brake drum es-splode last week so I'm also gonna go thru and replace the hardware on that drum, put some new tires in the rear (gotta love that big block), and replace that messed up LF brake rotor.

I just got a set of Hooker 2226 swap headers for my Camaro - it looks like Hooker has changed the design of them fairly recently. My set, for one, no longer has any slip-tubes on it. All the pics I could find show a slip tube on the front pass side header. The routing of the pipes looks a little less cocaine-induced as well. Looks like an update for the better to that set.

The reason I haven't gotten the hookers is the primaries that run thru the wheel wells. Are you saying they took those out? I want headers that dont go thru the wheel wells and exit outside the frame rails. How are those routed?

To my knowledge,the Hookers have never interfered with the wheelwells.I had a set on my last car,and the worst interferance was with the lower control arm mounts,maybe they have improved that?They don't fit THAT bad though,you have to consider you are putting an engine in a car that never left the factory with it.

Man I could have sworn the super comps ran thru the fenders. Oh well. I got a set on order. They should be here this weekend. I'll post pictures when theyre on there. Hopefully they dont interfere with my oil filter and cooler sandwich. If they do I'm gonna have to reconfigure my cooler circuit to include a remote filter.

Best as I can remember,the filter was TIGHT,I wouldn't doubt that you'll have interferance issues.There is a filter out there that is like the 1218 Delco,but really stubby.I can't remember the application,but a good counterman at a parts store should be able to help.You'd loose a little capacity,but the BBs have a lot of capacity as is,and your oil cooler adds some as well.

its coming along nice man... i'm an auto-tech student and i'm learning a lot everyday just by reading these forum posts and goin to school. dreamed of owning a third gen since my junior year of high school. parents tell me its "impractical" lol.. i do a lot of reading on here and at school but hardly get the chance to get my hands dirty seeing as how i live in the dorms :/ looks like you get a lot done in a little time. have fun, and good luck with the car and i'll be back to keep learnin

If the std BBC filter is too long, use one for a SBC. The only difference between them is the length. I`ve been using a BBC filter on my 350 for years, just for the extra little bit of capacity (half qt or so).

Yeah thats one of the things i picked up from my old school dad. Been running big block filters on all my small blocks. I don't think I'm gonna run a small filter on this rig though. I already have an oil cooler sandwich on it, so it doesnt take much more work to convert it to a remote oil filter setup. I could put the filter over where the carbon canister used to be since the oil cooler is on that side of the car hanging from the fabricated bumper in front of the radiator.

I've been talking to dad again and we figure its about time to put a cam and valve springs on this rig. Something with about 270ish degrees of advertised duration, 110 lobe seperation and around 650 lift. Probably get one with an LS1 firing order too. Hydraulic flat tappet. Just something cheap thats better than this stock cam from a motorhome. I will eventually go over to a solid roller setup so I'm not gonna spend alot on a cam right now. Just something to make power between 2000-6000. Old man says my nodular Iron rotating assy won't hold under extended high rpm use (5000+) so I'll hafta set my rev limiter to 5500.

We think between the headers intake carb and cam this will really wake this motor up. At least until we put the aluminum heads, shaft rockers, roller cam, and 496 forged rotating assembly in.

Thanks for the input guys.

more pics and news!

Sorry I forgot to update guys. I recently acquired a little 5 speed volkswagen for 500 bucks. Been trying to green that one up. I've come into some money issues lately so I've decided to hammer some debt away. It may be a couple months before I can put the cam/springs in this thing. I'll be sure to update when it starts rolling again.

Thanks again for all the help guys.

Tell me about it, since i found a head i got was cracked, i have been set back on my big block swap. Found another set, but need another 500$ to get them.

Got the 400$ flywheel and 375$ balancer i needed though...ugg.

Ok I'm crawling back out from under my rock. I have a friend who has some experience with paint and we've been doing that for the last week. I put some hooker 2226HKR headers and purple hornies on order so they should be in by next weekend. Ill post some pictures of the camaro paint. It still needs to be wet sanded and I broke the little plastic tabs for adjusting the headlights, so I'm waiting on those to put the front end on.

Before anybody gets in here and tells me about how I could have painted this car differently, here is my disclaimer. I don't care a whole lot about appearance. I just want it to be one color that doesn't stand out. We did it in my friends garage for about 200 bucks. The color is Viper black.

picsssssss

I too don't care too much about the paint job, so curious how it turned out.

I am trying to set up a 454 with a t-56. I dont know much about wiring and all the other stuff. I was wondering what wires i would need and which i need to eliminate. I am going to run a carb on it so i would like to have the engine compartment looking as clean as possible. If anyone can help i would really appreciate it. Not trying to highjack either just looking for advise from someone who has done it. By the way that is one sick ride.

what driveline do you have now?

Well, i have abandon hope of a 461 in my car, the engine is for sale, i told the T56 and the fidanza flywheel as well as the CF DC clutch and bought a LS1 T56 and hays flywheel with a CF DF clutch.

I just cannot afford to do it the way i wanted to so i am going with a LSx, prolly a 6.0 i hope.

Glad to see you have headers on the way.

Z

I like that paint job

Looks like around what I want to do with mine. The previous owner on mine did a horrid job doing a cheap paint job (fading red is a color, right?).

ZONES89RS--
Too bad I'm not in your area.I'd drop by to help in any way I could.
Yea $ is going to take another yr or 2 for us. We have my BB from my '74 Camaro that needs rebuilt. But then there's trans,suspension,rear.
My wife asks sometimes.." Are you EVER going to get it finished?"...
I giggle & say..." Some day, but not today"..

Best of luck!!

Devastator--
Good to hear things are progressing!

LOL, yea, i would have had a nasty *** big block and it would be running IF:

I didnt sink 2000$ into a moser 12 bolt

I didnt sink over 500$ into suspension

I didnt buy a set of heads that were cracked

Yea, the list goes on

But it is LS time

It was the original plan anyways!

I hate to hear that you gave up on your big block. You should be able make about the same horsepower with the LS you'll just be down on torque. Did you already score an engine?

Not yet man, i will be procharging it in the long run and it is going to be carbed not EFI.

Nope, no engine yet, i am looking though. Got a couple folks looking for a 6.0 for me.

The 4.30 gears will be more fun with less torque on the street, but the weight being down will help too.

I'
d sure reconsider going carb if you plan to add a Procharger.Not that it can't be done,but blow-through carbs are very finnicky.

Swap looks great! I have a 454 out in my garage thats fuel injected. I wanted to throw it in my car but now I'm looking at trading it for a 355 with a blower, or maybe an LSX motor...

Thanks for the kind words Intrepid781.

Well I hope you find a motor ZONES89RS. It shouldn't take too long. Truck 6.0L engines are all over the place. That cast iron block would probably be safer running a forced induction system too.

I got my HOOKER 2226HKR headers yesterday. Alas they have no flanges on the collectors. Im gonna have to cut out about two inches of pinchweld behind the drivers side a arm. Once I get em on I'm gonna have a buddy weld the collector flanges on, and then mount the purple hornies. Ill post pictures of the headers when I get home.

Why not just use band clamps instead of welding flanges on?

I bought purple hornies which have 3 bolt flanges with the hookers. I wanted to use those but I didn't know there where mufflers that will attach with just band clamps. I'm not gonna run exhaust over the axle so wherever the mufflers end I'll put turnouts there. I like em simple, light and easy to remove.

Just cut off the flange from the muffler. Most likely you're going to have to mount the mufflers away from the headers, and band clamps work well when joining same size pipes. Easy to remove, too.

i have no idea to what you guys are talking about. if possible could you please post pics of the band clamps an tohe flange. sorry nuvie here.

Band clamp:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-33272/

Header muffler with bolt-on flange:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-24221/

Here's my new hookers. complete with no collector flanges.
57 kid- I've never heard of using band clamps before. Will they support the weight of some bolt on purple hornies? I don't intend to use hangars for my mufflers. They are pretty compact.

You've got to support the mufflers. Even with flanges, unsupported mufflers will crack the header tubes.

Ask Hooker if you don't believe me.

Band clamps would also free up space between the collector and floor/frame.

Yep, i use the band clamps and never have a problem.

Just make sure you have exhaust hangers supporting the exhaust and the band clamp just connecting the pipes.

When ever you put this pupies on please take pics. It would be great for everyone that is currently doing the swap. Those headers look pretty nice. I think ill get me the ceramic coated ones.

Is there a difference in performance when using the purple hornies?

Honestly I don't know. I asked my dad for something really simple several years ago when I was doing my chevelle and thats what he told me. I tend to lean towards minimalist stuff. I imagine longtube headers and glasspack mufflers has got to make more power than cast iron exhuast manifolds with 12 inches of exhaust that just turn out behind the front tires. Its about the loudest exhaust system ever. If I didn't love obnoxiously loud cars it would be too much. I don't have a welder and my buddy won't help me with stuff beyond little things like welding flanges on headers. I'm gonna have to see If I can't find an exhuast shop that will do this for me. Any time I roll in with an out of state car they get all scared that the smog police are gonna come shut em down for putting mufflers on a car with no smog. I'll figure some thing out. Thanks for the help zone, 57kid.

Most glass packs have a perforated core that is a smaller diameter than the inlet/outlet, so they are inherently restrictive. I'm not sure about the Purple Hornies, but they probably follow that pattern. Take a look and see what's in there.