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Engine Swap Everything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.

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Old 07-20-2009, 11:36 AM   #1
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Car: 1977 Caprice Classic Coupe
Engine: LG3 305
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Which short block would you get?

Hello all,

I've been circling this 1977 Caprice for a couple weeks now, and I think I'm going to take the plunge. As I began to contemplate building a 350 for it from scratch, the proposition became more and more intimidating. Then took a look at Dart's website, and noticed the MSRP for their SHP short block vs the bare block. They are built almost exactly how I was planning myself, and they cost about as much as a do it yourself job. So I am now pretty set on just buying the whole short block. So I head over to Summit to see what else is out there. I stumble across a GM Performance ZZ350 short block, and it's even cheaper! So now I'm torn. Both have some pros and cons. This will be a 4000lb daily driver with a 200-4R, EQ 64cc vortec heads, an HSR EFI, 3.73 posi, and target output of 400HP / 430 Ft.Lbs. with a 5500 redline. Also considering a 75-100 shot NO2 system.

DART SHP 372CI SHORT BLOCK

4.125 BORE 3.48 STROKE
CAST STEEL CRANK
HYPER FLAT TOPS, FLOATING PIN
4340 FORGED I-BEAM RODS
MOLY RINGS
CLEVITE BEARINGS
PRICE: $2975

GM PERFORMANCE ZZ350 SHORT BLOCK

4.00 BORE 3.48 STROKE
FORGED 1053 STEEL CRANK
HYPER FLAT TOPS, PRESSED PIN
POWDERED METAL RODS
? rings
? bearings
PRICE: $2379

SHP
- PROS

More displacement (more power!)
Beefy SHP block
Higher compression

SHP - CONS

More Displacement (more gas!)
Cast crank instead of forged
More expensive

ZZ350 - PROS

Smaller displacement (less gas!)
Forged crank
Cheaper

ZZ350 - CONS
Smaller displacement (less power!)
Description less specific
Weaker late-model OEM block
Less compression

So, as you can see it's a toss-up. Which would you take? Are there some other options I should consider?
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Last edited by apehead; 07-21-2009 at 08:43 AM.
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Old 07-20-2009, 12:39 PM   #2
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Car: 1984 Z28
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Re: Which short block would you get?

If it was me, I'd go for the 372, you'll seriously appreciate the extra cubes to get that boat moving.
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Old 07-20-2009, 12:45 PM   #3
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Re: Which short block would you get?

+1 for more cubes. With 400hp/430ft.lbs., and a 5,500 redline, a cast crank (especially an aftermarket one) would be sufficient.
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Old 07-21-2009, 08:40 AM   #4
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Re: Which short block would you get?

Another concern I have with the 372 is the inability to rebore the block. If I'm spending the money, I'd at least like to get a rebuild or two out of the deal. I'm assuming you can't rebore those blocks. Is that true? Also, since the increase in displacement is all in the bore, would it really help low-end torque all that much, or just high rpm HP? Damn these compromises. I wish I could get the Dart block with the GM displacement, crank and rods, and the Dart pistons!

Last edited by apehead; 07-21-2009 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 07-21-2009, 03:27 PM   #5
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Re: Which short block would you get?

why do you think you couldn't overbore it?
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Old 07-21-2009, 04:32 PM   #6
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Re: Which short block would you get?

I just took a look at the Dart website, and the maximum recommended bore is 4.165, so I guess it's got at least one rebuild in it, maybe two, hell that could be 300,000 miles worth of block, so I guess it ain't much of an issue. Do companies usually "season" blocks before they are assembled into short blocks?
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Old 07-21-2009, 05:29 PM   #7
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Re: Which short block would you get?

I don't think so unless it's stated in the product description.
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Old 07-21-2009, 09:03 PM   #8
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Re: Which short block would you get?

Hmm... maybe I should try to find a machine shop that builds short blocks from remanufactured blocks. I might be able to get some goodies that aren't options in the Dart or GMPP short blocks (total seal rings, partial block fill, blueprinting, etc.) any recommendations in the Connecticut area (or guys that ship for cheap)?
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Old 07-21-2009, 09:42 PM   #9
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Re: Which short block would you get?

Check out YEAR ONE. They have thier "Power crate 350". 400+hp,400+lbs/ft torque,9.5:1 comp,Ported vortech heads,dyno-tested w/ dyno sheet, 12 month 12,000 mile WARRANTY(Key words!) for 2,990.00 +tax and shipping. thats a HARD deal to beat!
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Old 07-21-2009, 11:46 PM   #10
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Re: Which short block would you get?

I agree, a warranty is important, but a 12,000 mile warranty sucks. IIRC the GMPP crates come with a better warranty than that. You could probably find a local shop that would give at least a 50,000 mile warranty. And, I'm sure wherever you buy an engine from will be able to ship it to you for only a couple hundred dollars.
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:04 AM   #11
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Re: Which short block would you get?

That YearOne crate is a great buy, but I have two concerns: the cast iron crank and the stock vortecs. I've heard that the OEM vortecs were prone to cracking due to thin castings, and I'm not sure if the iron crank is up to the job of handling that amount of horsepower/stress for 100,000+ miles. Any thoughts? Would it be worth it to look for a somewhat more pricey crate with EQ, RHS, or GMPP bowtie vortec heads, and a steel crank? Or is this being overly paranoid about component failure for my HP/Tq window?

Last edited by apehead; 07-22-2009 at 09:08 AM.
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:19 AM   #12
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Re: Which short block would you get?

id go with the dart short block.
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