Quote: Originally Posted by morepowerjoe I've been thinking a lot about getting the stuff to burn my own chips. I really want to try it. But do you think I should even get into that? I would always encourage people to start burning their own chips, as that is an excellent way to get your feet wet. When I first started, my cousin wanted me to bypass the chip world because he's already been there and done that, and wanted me to jump into flashing the ECM. But I wanted to see just how far we've come in terms of DIY tuning, so I started from the very beginning. Not really necessary of course, but I found it to be very useful though in the long run. I would recommend that you read up on various tuning perspectives, this way you will learn, or get an idea of, what your engine might want in terms of fuel before even looking at the chip. If you browse and contemplate the information on this Megasquirt tuning page, I will guarantee that it will all start to make sense to you. Thanksgiving day was freaking murder lol, between my two little kids, along w/the rest of the families kids, I almost jumped out of the window.... http://www.theguestroom.net/manuals/...MegaSquirt.htm

Now I have no fuel. I'm trying to figure out what the ecu wants. What do I have to do to make it fire the injectors without the electronic stuff in the distributor? I'm assuming it wants to know the rotor is moving and then it will fire the injectors. But I can't figure out how to wire it and trick it.

The ECM will not trigger (energize) the fuel pump w/out seeing at least 400-RPM, which is why you have no fuel. You can try grounding the fuel pump relay (splice the green/white wire into a 12 volt source), which would bypass the ECM, and allow it to trigger the pump via a "key on" setting only, but other than that, I wouldn't recommend rewiring any of the ESC wiring though....

This is what I did. I put the tach wire from the dizzy to the reference wire on the ecu. It started right up as you'll see in the video. I can't beleive how awsome it's running. It idles fair, and feels way more powerful than it did with the carb. I got the temp to 190 and think it may have went closed loop and still ran great. If this is a taste of how it will run when I get a chip, injectors, throttle body and all that, man it's gonna be a Monster.

http://s442.photobucket.com/albums/q...Firststart.flv

Actually you now what it's probably not going closed loop because I have the o2 sensor in the header way down by the collector and I've read people saying it might not get hot enough down there. I'll probably have to get a heated one in there. I'll see if I can get my neighbor to lone me his scanner again so I can see because his will tell me if it's closed or open.

Haha, that'll work....

Its very safe to assume that your not going into Closed Loop. Engine's run much richer when they are cold, then as operating temperatures gradually increase, the O2 will take over and correct (call for) fueling to maintain an average of 128 BLM value, or stoich. In Open Loop, the MAP is essentially usless because the fueling is being controlled via a predetermined configuration (Alpha-N), but once Closed Loop is enabled, fuel control switches to O2 correction, and with an aggressive camshaft, the MAP will not be as efficient, regardless if the O2 is operational, while the injectors and VE table being completely off. In Open Loop though, the fueling does not change, it does not correct, which is why your idle remains steady....

The next few days I'm gonna take the time to button everything down and put the front end back on. Then when I get a chance later in the week I'll go to the salvage yard and get some 350 injectors may be the chip with it. After that I'll install a heated o2 sensor and we'll see how it goes. I want it to go into closed loop before I go down the road. It would be my luck if I drive it like it is, it'll go closed loop down the road and won't run.

One thing that is incredible is the throttle response I'm getting. It revs high and quick without much hesitation at all.

That is why I said to disconnect the O2 sensor, this will force Open Loop, and it will not slip into Closed Loop and throw everything off. Throttle response is crisp because the stock Alpha-N lookup tables are more than likely more precise than the way your carbed application was setup. I hope everyone now sees that it is possible to control fueling with the ECM, while controlling spark with either a mechanical, or vacuum advanced distributor....

I know your right about disconnecting the o2, I just would like to see what it does in closed loop. May be I will dissconnect it and take it for a drive. And yes it is possible to have the ecu just control the fuel.