1986_T/A

Been doing a lot of research here, and it seems it's time for some serious decision making and planning.

I had a 305 4-bbl engine in the car originally. That engine is long gone. I was given a 350 block, 3970010 casting number. From what I understand, this block is rather undesirable for what I'm looking to do. It will need a flat tappet cam, or a retro-fit roller, which is more expensive. It will have a two piece RMS, which I absolutely hated on the original motor(leaks, leaks, and more leaks). It will also have the dipstick on the wrong side of the car, and it may not have all the holes on the block for the stock alternator/power steering brackets.

I don't want to deal with the headaches of flat tappet cam, to be perfectly honest. When I learned about all the other headaches I might run into and the fact this needs to be checked/machined, I've pretty much decided that I'll try and dump this block for whatever I can get for it.

Now, the question is, what should I do for an engine block for this build? The way I see it, there are a few options.

1) Buy a used block, that will need to be taken to a machine shop and checked for usability, cleaned, and machined just like the current one.

2) Buy a running motor out of a junker.

3) Buy a clean remanufactured block from Summit or somewhere like that.

4) Buy a brand new block.

This is what I am leaning towards, right now:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-150100/

To me, it sounds like the only thing I'll need to hit a shop for, with this block, is the balancing and assembly? I think that would be the most efficient use of my money, would it not? This would be $811.90 delivered to my door. I mean, the cleaning and machine work alone on a used block is probably going to exceed the cost of this block, right? Especially if I decide to go with a stroker. Then I have to find a used block that is in good enough shape to machine...

The car will have a 3.42 rear end in it(4th gen), with a rebuilt 700R4. I plan on doing the SFCs and upgrading suspension as soon as I get under the car and start cleaning it up and painting everything. It will be a daily driver(so streetability and gas mileage will be important), but I'm still looking to put down about 350 rwtq. I will be going with a an HEI distributor and an aftermarket carb(ditching the ECM controlled stuff).

So, if this was your car, what would you do? I don't have the budget to do an LS conversion, and I've got an LS2 already sitting in the garage under the hood of my GTO, so I'm going to stay with an SBC1/2 plan. My overall budget is probably in the neighborhood of around $4k for the engine/trans. Lots of smart people on here, so help me out. I'm way out of the game, as this car has been apart in a garage for....about 10 years now. That's what having kids will do to your projects. I'm restoring this car mostly for the sentimental value. One of my favorite cars ever, looks wise.

Tinbender59

there are several options open to you, TPI, LT1,Or LS series engines, personally I like LT1's or the less desired TPI, if you are not hung up on the OL small block like me. get a 4.8l or a 5.3l motor trans wiring and ECU out of a late model pick-up, install an LS1 intake, 12 lbs of boost (turbo) and have a ball. P>S> look at my LT1 swap link in my signature

1986_T/A

I'd like to stay NA on this build. Turbos are a whole different can of worms that come with a lot more work/cost, typically. I'm also trying to avoid all the electrical work that comes along with a straight swap from one vehicle to another.

Tinbender59

here is the deal of the century for you, If it is real that is ???? http://wichita.craigslist.org/pts/3144299608.html

1986_T/A

Back to the original topic... lol

Tinbender59

Ok you got it

A few questions:

coup, T-top, or Convertible? are you hard on the carb issue or will you consider EFI, manual or automatic.

if you go carb you will have to use a "non E" trans. TH350, TH400, 700R4, a 4L60, or stick.

EFI with an "E" trans can deliver the best millage possible.

carb is cool but forget good fuel Millage, you can get fair millage though.

and T-top or convertible you are severely limited as to how much HP that you can throw at it


motor options, the best advice that I can give, if you want to go carb, find a 96 to 99 Vortec 5.7 "cheap" here in Wichita Ks it can be rebuilt for $1000 then get an intake from Summit to put a carb on the vortec heads, aquire a pre 95 HEI distributor, SB headers for your car, and rock on baby

1986_T/A

It is a coupe. I am pretty hard set on the carb as the EFI setups I have looked at are going to drive my costs up a ton. An L31(vortec 5700)around Chicago here is ridiculously priced. No cheaper that $800 with MASSIVE miles on it. I can't justify that much money for a motor with that many unknowns. I would rather just build from scratch. Now if I could find a running one for a few hundred, different story. Around here guys want a couple hundred for a BLOCK.

Tinbender59

here are a few options in your area, last one looks like a deal, with out seeing it

http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/pts/3210569953.html

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/pts/3197645004.html

http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/pts/3210163601.html

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/3209576625.html

1986_T/A

Again, most of those are complete unknowns. $225 for a 3970010 bare block? That's the EXACT block I already have....(except mine is 010/020 cast under the timing chain, whatever that's worth) and I have no idea what it looks like or what kind of machine work it would need. It's been sitting in a garage for 20 years.

Tinbender59

that is what the crank was turned undersize, 0.010 mains / 0.020 rods. man it sounds to me like you have your path decided already, Git-R-Done

1986_T/A

Rust, clean up, frame, and suspension first.

zmadmaxz

@1986_t/a I am in the same boat as you man. I bought a 1986 iroc without a motor. I already had a running 350 to put in it. I got it out of a junk yard, it was from a 2000 Cadilac escalade. I bought an edelbrock vortec intake and converted it to carb since I already had a whole carb setup from the pickup truck I originally installed the vortec motor in. I picked up the engine with 40K on it for 1100$ like 5 years ago. The only problem I ran into was that you have to use an electric fuel pump. I picked one up from autozone for an 1986 K10 pickup for like 27$. I intend to change the cam/springs down the line and I figure this will give me close to your 350 RWTQ that you wanted.

Heres a bunch of pages of engines from the chicago area, quite a few for around 300$ that could be rebuilt

http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/sear...ey=&userPage=1

1986_T/A

Good stuff, thanks man. I have an electric fuel pump that a buddy gave me that should be just fine. A Mallory Series 110 4110. I think my biggest hurdle is going to be making the decision on how to start the build. haha

I need to get the car up on some jack stands, start cleaning up underneath, checking things out, ripping out the bad suspension, running new brake/fuel lines, etc. Most of the rear suspension was replaced with energy suspension stuff when we put the 3.42 in there out of the 97 formula, so that's a plus. I figure I start with all of that, get the subframe connectors installed, do the brakes, get everything underneath all set to go, and then start on the drivetrain once the car is ready to hold it.

zmadmaxz

I hear you on that! I just threw my motor in to get it going, and now just the stock vortec with timing turned up and headers is waaaaay overpowered for the the car. Can't launch at all without frying the right rear tire. From my experience unless you are buying big dollar heads you can't beat the vortecs. With a special valve spring and retainer kit too, you can throw in a decent cam without having to do machine work. Plus you get all the upgraded seals. My old 2 piece rms block used to leak everywhere constantly. This motor doesn't leak a drop, so glad i got it. If you need any help man don't hesitate to ask, I spent the last month installing it in the car so its fresh in my memory. Watch the drivers side header, i had a bitch of a time getting mine in. had to actually cut part of the trans off to get it in!!!

1986_T/A

I've got another toy(2006 GTO), thankfully, or I might have done exactly what you did. haha. Right now it's just a roller. Trans and motor are gone. Well, the trans is sitting in my garage with the valve body off of it because of the rebuild that never happened, but yeah, you get the point.

I figure the car has been sitting SO long, that it sitting another year while I do everything properly is not really a big deal. I'm just hoping I don't find any rot rust hidden somewhere that forces me to dump it. It is REALLY clean for a 1986, so I'm optimistic. The only rot I've found was the typical spare tire area that seems to rot on most of them. It's been mostly garage kept for the last 10 years, so, we shall see.

zmadmaxz

Mine actually has 2 pretty big holes in the floor due to leaking t-tops but i was just looking for a cheap car to throw my motor in. I will be fixing everything up a little as I go. But doing it your way is the right way. I have a 99 dodge ram that is going to get a workover now that i have the car. then the car gets my attention, especially once the snow falls, its not going anywhere. Do it up right and you wont have anything to worry about. Let us know what you end up doing.

1986_T/A

The more I hear about the rust from the leaking t-tops, the more I'm glad mine doesn't have them. Which is funny considering how much I REALLY wanted t-tops back in the day.

My passenger door is pretty well rusted up on the bottom too, and will likely need to be replaced. I keep doing the math in my head as I think of things and do more research, and the costs just keep climbing.

zmadmaxz

yeah i wanted t-tops too, now i would be happy without them. but ill get them to stop leaking, thats what i do is fix things