Notes on Installation of Hooker Long Tube Headers (2210) - Page 2 - Exhaust - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

Momar · 03-16-2003, 07:13 PM

Its not mine unfortunately. The car belongs to Phil87Iroc. I believe I have seen him say what it was before, but I dont remember. You could search for him on the boards and either pm him or email him. Traxion has links to a couple more pictures of the underside of Phil87Iroc's car in the first post.

Ben

TRAXION · 03-16-2003, 07:34 PM

Guys - Look in my original post. All of Phil87Iroc's pictures are in there ... including the one posted again above. It's under point # 18.

Tim

383backinblack · 03-17-2003, 09:07 AM

my hooker super comps fit right in, i put them in while the motor was going in, otherwise you cant get them in or out. However, i didnt have to modify anything and i used a stock size starter. I just ground a small notch in the bellhousing to slip the bump on the starter nose through

Momar · 03-17-2003, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 383backinblack
my hooker super comps fit right in, i put them in while the motor was going in, otherwise you cant get them in or out. However, i didnt have to modify anything and i used a stock size starter. I just ground a small notch in the bellhousing to slip the bump on the starter nose through

Same here. Headers went in while motor went in. Didnt have to modify anything. I dont know if I could get them out if I wanted or not, havent tried. I am also using the stock starter. It was a tight fit but I put it in after the headers were in. I just bought a LT1 and figure since I wont be doing anything with it for a while I may stick the starter on this motor for now anyway just so it is further away from the hot headers.

Ben

11SEC91Z · 03-17-2003, 11:49 AM

OK guys sorry to grind this subject in to the ground..But i have 2 more questions..I already have hooker shoerties on my car..My question is about the slip tube,does it have to be removed to install these headers..???I actually have extra clearance..or more than most because i have the ears of my trans ground off on both sides so im hoping for a smooth install with messing with the sliptube..And my car is lowered appoximatley so this also worries me..Any info will help guys thanks..

Ricktpi · 03-17-2003, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 11SEC91Z
OK guys sorry to grind this subject in to the ground..But i have 2 more questions..I already have hooker shoerties on my car..My question is about the slip tube,does it have to be removed to install these headers..???I actually have extra clearance..or more than most because i have the ears of my trans ground off on both sides so im hoping for a smooth install with messing with the sliptube..And my car is lowered appoximatley so this also worries me..Any info will help guys thanks..

I had to remove the starter & jack up engine about 2" with the slip tube removed to get the pass side in. The drivers side went in with only removing the oil filter. The front cover of the OE starter hits the one tube, so I got a mini starter through eBay.

LilJayV10 · 03-17-2003, 11:29 PM

has anyone lowered thier car with this setup? Do you think an inch would be ok? Thanks.

11SEC91Z · 03-21-2003, 08:16 AM

Just wanted to say thanks Traxion and everyone who posted on this thread..It really helped alot getting my longtubes on.
:hail:

Spdfrk1990 · 03-22-2003, 06:23 PM

IS there any extra problems with a 5-speed?

gtabadboy · 03-26-2003, 09:08 AM

Phil87Iroc
I am having the same problem with my #7 plug. I have the Dart Pro 1 aluminum heads and got the shortest plug to go with them. What do you mean by you made a shorty plug? I am gonna get header wrap to try to avoid the arcing I am now experiencing.

Momar · 03-26-2003, 01:18 PM

Phil actually ground down the ceramic on the plug and rethreaded the metal further down I believe. If you get ahold of him I am sure he could give you better instructions.

Ben

LilJayV10 · 03-26-2003, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by LilJayV10
has anyone lowered thier car with this setup? Do you think an inch would be ok? Thanks.

Momar · 03-26-2003, 05:59 PM

Mine is not lowered and has new Iroc springs all the way around. You be the judge. I do not have the mufflex y pipe but instead custom dual 2.5" exhaust, but you can see the lowest part of my exhaust there. Once I start actually driving the car I plan on taking it to the exhaust shop and having it all welded up but it doesnt scrape on my driveway even with the clams so I should be good.

Ben

StreetRCR · 03-27-2003, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by gtabadboy
Phil87Iroc
I am having the same problem with my #7 plug. I have the Dart Pro 1 aluminum heads and got the shortest plug to go with them. What do you mean by you made a shorty plug? I am gonna get header wrap to try to avoid the arcing I am now experiencing.

I have the same setup. I used Taylor wires and regular plugs (ngk 5672A). On #7 I just used a Taylor Boot protector and it sits against my header. With a couple hundred miles I have had NO problems with this setup. DON"T get header wrap! It can cause the headers to crack over time.

gtabadboy · 03-27-2003, 12:48 PM

I also bought the high temp boot protectors. Be careful after about a thousand miles or racing those will eventually burn through. That is what has happened to my boots (Moroso wires, 90 degree). Just check it often...I actually just noticed this last week - my car has been sitting. I would just use header wrap to wrap the header around that one spot where the plug touches not the whole primary.

Timz2882 · 03-27-2003, 04:56 PM

okay the guys with the mufflex y pipe. i just got mine in the mail today and was puttin it together and wasnt sure if this is how urs came like.

Timz2882 · 03-27-2003, 04:57 PM

heres another

Timz2882 · 03-27-2003, 04:58 PM

i hope this isnt a screw up by mufflex.

Timz2882 · 03-27-2003, 04:59 PM

this is why im postin these pics and hope u guys can help me out. thanx in advantced

Momar · 03-27-2003, 05:04 PM

Are you referring to the fact that they aim different directions? If so I dont believe it is a messup because the subframe is different on both sides of the car. However several of the people who have these have had to modify them to get them to fit perfect.

Ben

Timz2882 · 03-27-2003, 05:18 PM

okay thanx. i asked one other guy as i was postin these and he said it was suposed to be like that. im happy becuz i didnt want to have to cut and weld to fit a mistake, ya know.

JMatlock88 · 03-27-2003, 05:39 PM

First of all, clean your house! Then maybe you can work on the car..

The ypipe is not supposed to be symmetric because it hugs the passenger side of the driveshaft tunnel.

Timz2882 · 03-27-2003, 06:05 PM

just for being a smartass jmatlock, i cleaned my room not my house, im only 18, so far no house for myself yet.

Timz2882 · 03-27-2003, 06:06 PM

this is the little pig that made the mess

Timz2882 · 03-27-2003, 06:07 PM

but i have no clue why its so funny lol maybe if i turn this off.

okay i know this is off topic but just for laffs ya know.

TRAXION · 03-27-2003, 08:05 PM

Easy there chief (Timz2882). Stop crowding up this sticky post with meaningless replies. Your Y-Pipe looks absolutely fine. Here are a couple pics of mine installed:

http://www.celligent.com/tim/iroc/ex...ongtube/ypipe/

Tim

Timz2882 · 03-27-2003, 08:28 PM

kool thanx tim. i know i was alot off topic there sorry about that.

also would it be harder to put in the aslton sfc with the y pipe right there or is there enuff room to get inthere with a mig welder and weld them in?

TRAXION · 03-28-2003, 07:23 AM

You'll want to take the y-pipe off. If you do it right then this won't be a problem. I am using a band clamp to connect the y-pipe to my catback. So, to remove the y-pipe it's as easy as undoing the header collector bolts (3 per side) and then undoing the band clamp. Bam - drops right down. You'll want the SFCs welded in really nice so removing the y-pipe should definitely be on the list of things to do during the installation of the SFCs.

Tim

Markolc · 03-30-2003, 04:11 PM

I installed my Hooker LT's a couple years ago and can basically vouch for everything TRAXION wrote on the subject. My Slip tube hit the K-member in the same place, and I am using an LT1 start (becasue I have an LT1). Plug clearance is super with LT1 heads, since I don't have an AC box I can change plugs in about 30 minutes. Also, mine are ceramic coated, so for some reason, after only 15 minutes the headers are cool to the touch (pretty cool). I'd definately recomment some locking header bolts. I caught a few header bolts backing out on me already (but due to the 1 piece header flange I didn't have leaks...I hated the SLP 1 3/4" headers for that!)

About lowering the car, to not have MUCH trouble I'd definately get some IROC springs and ONLY cut a quarter coil off them in the front if you want the car lowered a bit! I have mi