Momar

So there were no problems with the t56? That is awsome. I already have the longtubes, but want to get a t56. I thought that I had read that they wouldnt fit together.

Ben

Der91Z

Nope, i just installed mine with the T56 and clearance is fine. Here is the closest thing on mine.

Momar

Cool and thanks for the pic. I guess that just means that when I finally get around to getting one that there will be a little less modification.

Ben

Der91Z

I'll take a pic of the drivers side tommarrow when i'm back under the car so that you can see the clearance on that side.

prockbp

i would just like to mention some of my experiences compared to some of trax's experiences...


i agree with all points except the ones that i reference here:

point#

2. the stock starter worked fine, we removed it to install the headers then reinstalled it

4. and 5. no grinding neccessary

13. my mufflex y-pipe bolted right up... but it is a bit of a puzzle because some of the pieces(particularly the pieces that bolt to header collectors) have different angles built in to them.. my only complaint about mufflex is that i broke one of the clamps that comes with their stuff

15. i bought the mufflex 3.5" single outlet cat-back, it fit ]PERFECTLY[ with the mufflex y-pipe ... everything tucks up very very nicely(it is up to you to make it tuck up nicely though, there is plently of play in a system with that many joints)

16. i used my 80k mile stock motor mounts

18. my stock plugs worked fine with the headers(i have stock heads) but i did need angled boots


and that's it, just a summary of how my experiences differed from Traxion's

Momar

Well, mine went about the same as yours other than the fact that I have dual exhaust instead of the mufflex.


2. I used the stock starter for a while, but I happened upon a lt1 starter that didnt cost anything so I am using it. I actually had the stock one in and out a couple times with the headers also and I only had to remove the slip fit primary.

4. and 5. Ditto. No grinding.

16. I did however have "new" rubber mounts.

18. I used stock plugs and they worked with a shorty socket I made, but when I changed them I used shorties because it just made it a bit easier. (ported 416 heads)

Ben

__________________
86 GN - GT67, B&M Trans Cooler, Built Trans w/ many upgraded parts, 3200 Vigilate Stall, CAI, RJC Power Plate, 3.5" THDP, DMH electric cutout, home built 3" mandrel bent exhaust w/ spintech muffler, Translator Plus, 3.5" MAF, q-boost controller, Walbro GSS340M, hotwire kit, 60#injectors, and 275 60 15 ET Street Radials out back.

On the way- Powerstroke(mounted, but needs plumbing ran), and Alky. (hopefully ported heads before too long)

13.035 @ 102.28 on stock turbo and ic on pump gas w/ 1.77 60 ft.

SLP IROC-Z

where can i get this mufflex Y pipe, whats the part # and will it clear a T5 tranny also would a 2" drop cause this setup to sit on the ground?

TRAXION

Point #13 in the sticky for PN and the 'where' to get it. IMHO, a 2" drop is too much to run the Hooker Long Tubes and the Mufflex Y-Pipe without some front frame modifications to make room for the exhaust to tuck up closer.

Tim

__________________
2005 Subaru STi, Got RlCE?
My old 11 second 1990 IROC-Z (sold to TGO Member 92 Formula)

86IROCNJ

Got mine in the car last week with very little problems as well. I have a mini starter which worked out great and i too had no clearancing issues, so far! I recently did a motor swap and had bought new mounts, but when we got the motor out, the stock 82K mile mounts were still in great shape, so i decided to hold off on those. I also had some minor issues with the brake lines on the pass. side of the k-member, which i just simply moved around a bit! Was carefull not to crease it, just bent it around a bit so there would be no more problems with it. The hardest damn part of this install, for me, was getting the damn oil filter off! lol I have a crate motor and they put that damn filter on so tight it was unblievable! I went up to Pep Boys twice to get different wrenches for it and i wound up getting lucky with one of them. The oil filter looked like confetti when i was done with it. That needed to be done and also jacking the car up high enough to get the drivers side header in. Besides that the install went pretty smoothly. Thanks to the people who responded to TRAXION'S post as well as TRAXION himself for getting this info out there! I mean, it could be done without this thread but it just went more smoothly and i kinda knew what to expect with this info being out here. As far as an exhaust system, have no clue what to go with now. I mean i have some ideas, but i am open to suggestions, that is if you read through my BS post! lol Thanks for your time and help guys. Later-Bryan

SLP IROC-Z

can one of u guys measuer from the closes part of the header to the ground and what ur fender lip to ground height is as well.

86IROCNJ

Sorry man, car is on jack stands still!

agchoset

Got some pics while I the car was at the shop having the joints of the y-pipe welded, as well as having the O2 bungs welded in and the muffler hangers fabbed.

The pics are a bit large, so dialup users beware. I may get around to shrinking them down, or may not.

Pic 1

Pic 2

Pic # (clamps still in place in this one)

Pic 4 (good full-length side shot of the car -- angle is a bit deceiving though)

Pic 5

Pic 6

Pic 7 - clearance between Skulte T56 crossmember and Mufflex Y-pipe after tweaking

Enjoy :-)

Andrew Choset
88 IROC-Z

Kingtal0n

I just ordered Part# HED-68460-6 from summit, Hedman Coated Longtubes... mainly out of curiosity. I wanted to see how the long tubes would fit in my car...

now im really curious. Ill be using the stock 100K motor mount, a 700R4, and I have a catback on it right now. the motors coming out this week so i was going to test fit the hedmans on the motor before i removed it....

One of my concerns is I need the O2 sensor in the headers, and i dont think those are coming with it, so Im wondering if i need to get a diff. part number with the O2 hole or how can i modify them with the coating on them for the O2 sensor... ?

88IROC350TPI

Well I just installed my Hooker Long tubes..... I installed them while I was putting in the motor and I have stock motor mounts.

1) The driver's side header dropped right in with absolutely no clearance problems.
2) The passenger side is a major PITA. It hit all the places TRAXION mentioned. I'm still trying to get it to fit nicely. I also had to bend the brake lines way out of the way
3) I thought my stock starter would fit but it DEFINATELY doesn't unless I beat in some of the tubes ....so a mini-starter is on order.
4) I have vortec heads which are straight plug. The #7 plug is so close you couldnt even remove it so I dented the tube in and now its got plenty of clearance. I'm glad I didn't buy the nice purdy ceramic coated ones because I've scraped and dented these things to sh!!t.


Really fun ....about as fun as getting your teeth pulled out.

__________________
10.5:1 350 with Canfield 195's & Cam Motion flat tappet
bone stock suspension, no SFCs, single 3" cat-back
100% street car.

Thus far 11.50 @ 119.5mph on motor.

Kingtal0n

can anyone share experience with the hedman longtubes?

TRAXION

This sticky post is for Hooker Long Tube headers ... not Hedman. For relavant posts about Hedman Long Tubes just do search. There's a bunch of unconsolidated info on this board about the Hedmans ... but you won't find it in this post.

Tim

__________________
2005 Subaru STi, Got RlCE?
My old 11 second 1990 IROC-Z (sold to TGO Member 92 Formula)

maniacc

Thanks to all who have contributed to this post, i have been considering installing hooker long tubes for some time but have heard of alot of problems, but this thread has seemed to address them all, except one...

Will the long tubes fit with A/C system still intact...i looked thru all the pics and could seem to find anyone that retained the a/c???

thanks again for this great post!!!

later
larry

JMatlock88

88+ cars with the serp belt system will have no issues with retaining the A/C. There are a couple of braces that mount from the stock manifolds to the accessory brackets to help eliminate vibration. It is your choice to eliminate them or fabricate some custom spacers down on the header to keep them. Nobody I know uses the braces, and we all have been running without them for years with no vibration issues whatsoever.

I am running A/C and supercomps with zero problems. (see sig pic)

Kingtal0n

uh oh. whats it mean when the coating turns from shiny silver to a non-shiny flat white color? i think they got a little too hot.

jon_volk

you didnt install these headers on a brand new motor did ya? your not supposed to use ceramic coated headers during break in b/c the egt's get too hot.

Momar

I did the same thing. A wet rag took the white back to the shiney coating. Scared the crap out of me though. No one told me not to use the coated headers on a new motor break in. Not to mention that I had the old style timing tab with a new balancer so I was running very retarted to start with. I got those suckers glowing orange. Whoops!!!!

Ben

__________________
86 GN - GT67, B&M Trans Cooler, Built Trans w/ many upgraded parts, 3200 Vigilate Stall, CAI, RJC Power Plate, 3.5" THDP, DMH electric cutout, home built 3" mandrel bent exhaust w/ spintech muffler, Translator Plus, 3.5" MAF, q-boost controller, Walbro GSS340M, hotwire kit, 60#injectors, and 275 60 15 ET Street Radials out back.

On the way- Powerstroke(mounted, but needs plumbing ran), and Alky. (hopefully ported heads before too long)

13.035 @ 102.28 on stock turbo and ic on pump gas w/ 1.77 60 ft.

JMatlock88

I did the same thing. Mine got to the point where the alum began to surface (looks like aluminum sandpaper shavings on the pipes) A scotch brite pad and some restoration polish found at www.hpcoatings.com did the trick to restore the finish.

Spdfrk1990

So your saying if you want coated headers on your new engine you have to buy the non coated ones then put them on break it in then take them back off to coat them

JMatlock88

Not really. Most can/will correct the timing immediately on a predictable new motor setup. As for my situation, I had to run my timing far from stock for it to run right on the stock chip. Timing was way off where it needed to be at idle but closer at cruising speeds, hence the red headers at idle. I had a new chip within a few days, but the coating was damaged slightly.

Momar

Mine was also a mishap. I had the wrong timing mark so I had the timing way to retarted for cam break in. I think that if you have everything set right you would be fine.

Ben

Spdfrk1990

thats cool just the way they were talkin was like ohh no u used coated headers on the break in

jon_volk

we were talkin like ohh no b/c you wont find any header company that will warranty the ceramic coating if it was used during engine break in.

Spdfrk1990

its not like they would know its brand new unless they came and seen it

fb305svs

Since just about everyone in here is using the mufflex catback system, what muffler does everyone prefer as far as sound? spintech or the flowmaster?