Notes on Installation of Hooker Long Tube Headers (2210)
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So there were no problems with the t56? That is awsome. I already have the longtubes, but want to get a t56. I thought that I had read that they wouldnt fit together.
Ben
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i would just like to mention some of my experiences compared to some of trax's experiences...
i agree with all points except the ones that i reference here:
point#
2. the stock starter worked fine, we removed it to install the headers then reinstalled it
4. and 5. no grinding neccessary
13. my mufflex y-pipe bolted right up... but it is a bit of a puzzle because some of the pieces(particularly the pieces that bolt to header collectors) have different angles built in to them.. my only complaint about mufflex is that i broke one of the clamps that comes with their stuff
15. i bought the mufflex 3.5" single outlet cat-back, it fit ]PERFECTLY[ with the mufflex y-pipe ... everything tucks up very very nicely(it is up to you to make it tuck up nicely though, there is plently of play in a system with that many joints)
16. i used my 80k mile stock motor mounts
18. my stock plugs worked fine with the headers(i have stock heads) but i did need angled boots
and that's it, just a summary of how my experiences differed from Traxion's
Originally posted by prockbp i would just like to mention some of my experiences compared to some of trax's experiences...
i agree with all points except the ones that i reference here:
point#
2. the stock starter worked fine, we removed it to install the headers then reinstalled it
4. and 5. no grinding neccessary
13. my mufflex y-pipe bolted right up... but it is a bit of a puzzle because some of the pieces(particularly the pieces that bolt to header collectors) have different angles built in to them.. my only complaint about mufflex is that i broke one of the clamps that comes with their stuff
15. i bought the mufflex 3.5" single outlet cat-back, it fit ]PERFECTLY[ with the mufflex y-pipe ... everything tucks up very very nicely(it is up to you to make it tuck up nicely though, there is plently of play in a system with that many joints)
16. i used my 80k mile stock motor mounts
18. my stock plugs worked fine with the headers(i have stock heads) but i did need angled boots
and that's it, just a summary of how my experiences differed from Traxion's
Well, mine went about the same as yours other than the fact that I have dual exhaust instead of the mufflex.
2. I used the stock starter for a while, but I happened upon a lt1 starter that didnt cost anything so I am using it. I actually had the stock one in and out a couple times with the headers also and I only had to remove the slip fit primary.
4. and 5. Ditto. No grinding.
16. I did however have "new" rubber mounts.
18. I used stock plugs and they worked with a shorty socket I made, but when I changed them I used shorties because it just made it a bit easier. (ported 416 heads)
Ben
__________________ 86 GN - GT67, B&M Trans Cooler, Built Trans w/ many upgraded parts, 3200 Vigilate Stall, CAI, RJC Power Plate, 3.5" THDP, DMH electric cutout, home built 3" mandrel bent exhaust w/ spintech muffler, Translator Plus, 3.5" MAF, q-boost controller, Walbro GSS340M, hotwire kit, 60#injectors, and 275 60 15 ET Street Radials out back.
On the way- Powerstroke(mounted, but needs plumbing ran), and Alky. (hopefully ported heads before too long)
13.035 @ 102.28 on stock turbo and ic on pump gas w/ 1.77 60 ft.
Originally posted by SLP IROC-Z where can i get this mufflex Y pipe, whats the part # and will it clear a T5 tranny also would a 2" drop cause this setup to sit on the ground?
Point #13 in the sticky for PN and the 'where' to get it. IMHO, a 2" drop is too much to run the Hooker Long Tubes and the Mufflex Y-Pipe without some front frame modifications to make room for the exhaust to tuck up closer.
Tim
__________________ 2005 Subaru STi, Got RlCE?
My old 11 second 1990 IROC-Z (sold to TGO Member 92 Formula)
Got mine in the car last week with very little problems as well. I have a mini starter which worked out great and i too had no clearancing issues, so far! I recently did a motor swap and had bought new mounts, but when we got the motor out, the stock 82K mile mounts were still in great shape, so i decided to hold off on those. I also had some minor issues with the brake lines on the pass. side of the k-member, which i just simply moved around a bit! Was carefull not to crease it, just bent it around a bit so there would be no more problems with it. The hardest damn part of this install, for me, was getting the damn oil filter off! lol I have a crate motor and they put that damn filter on so tight it was unblievable! I went up to Pep Boys twice to get different wrenches for it and i wound up getting lucky with one of them. The oil filter looked like confetti when i was done with it. That needed to be done and also jacking the car up high enough to get the drivers side header in. Besides that the install went pretty smoothly. Thanks to the people who responded to TRAXION'S post as well as TRAXION himself for getting this info out there! I mean, it could be done without this thread but it just went more smoothly and i kinda knew what to expect with this info being out here. As far as an exhaust system, have no clue what to go with now. I mean i have some ideas, but i am open to suggestions, that is if you read through my BS post! lol Thanks for your time and help guys. Later-Bryan
Got some pics while I the car was at the shop having the joints of the y-pipe welded, as well as having the O2 bungs welded in and the muffler hangers fabbed.
The pics are a bit large, so dialup users beware. I may get around to shrinking them down, or may not.
I just ordered Part# HED-68460-6 from summit, Hedman Coated Longtubes... mainly out of curiosity. I wanted to see how the long tubes would fit in my car...
now im really curious. Ill be using the stock 100K motor mount, a 700R4, and I have a catback on it right now. the motors coming out this week so i was going to test fit the hedmans on the motor before i removed it....
One of my concerns is I need the O2 sensor in the headers, and i dont think those are coming with it, so Im wondering if i need to get a diff. part number with the O2 hole or how can i modify them with the coating on them for the O2 sensor... ?
Well I just installed my Hooker Long tubes..... I installed them while I was putting in the motor and I have stock motor mounts.
1) The driver's side header dropped right in with absolutely no clearance problems.
2) The passenger side is a major PITA. It hit all the places TRAXION mentioned. I'm still trying to get it to fit nicely. I also had to bend the brake lines way out of the way
3) I thought my stock starter would fit but it DEFINATELY doesn't unless I beat in some of the tubes ....so a mini-starter is on order.
4) I have vortec heads which are straight plug. The #7 plug is so close you couldnt even remove it so I dented the tube in and now its got plenty of clearance. I'm glad I didn't buy the nice purdy ceramic coated ones because I've scraped and dented these things to sh!!t.
Really fun ....about as fun as getting your teeth pulled out.
Originally posted by Kingtal0n can anyone share experience with the hedman longtubes?
This sticky post is for Hooker Long Tube headers ... not Hedman. For relavant posts about Hedman Long Tubes just do search. There's a bunch of unconsolidated info on this board about the Hedmans ... but you won't find it in this post.
Tim
__________________ 2005 Subaru STi, Got RlCE?
My old 11 second 1990 IROC-Z (sold to TGO Member 92 Formula)
Thanks to all who have contributed to this post, i have been considering installing hooker long tubes for some time but have heard of alot of problems, but this thread has seemed to address them all, except one...
Will the long tubes fit with A/C system still intact...i looked thru all the pics and could seem to find anyone that retained the a/c???
88+ cars with the serp belt system will have no issues with retaining the A/C. There are a couple of braces that mount from the stock manifolds to the accessory brackets to help eliminate vibration. It is your choice to eliminate them or fabricate some custom spacers down on the header to keep them. Nobody I know uses the braces, and we all have been running without them for years with no vibration issues whatsoever.
I am running A/C and supercomps with zero problems. (see sig pic)
Last edited by JMatlock88; 07-12-2003 at 10:07 AM.
Originally posted by Kingtal0n uh oh. whats it mean when the coating turns from shiny silver to a non-shiny flat white color? i think they got a little too hot.
you didnt install these headers on a brand new motor did ya? your not supposed to use ceramic coated headers during break in b/c the egt's get too hot.
Originally posted by Kingtal0n uh oh. whats it mean when the coating turns from shiny silver to a non-shiny flat white color? i think they got a little too hot.
I did the same thing. A wet rag took the white back to the shiney coating. Scared the crap out of me though. No one told me not to use the coated headers on a new motor break in. Not to mention that I had the old style timing tab with a new balancer so I was running very retarted to start with. I got those suckers glowing orange. Whoops!!!!
Ben
__________________ 86 GN - GT67, B&M Trans Cooler, Built Trans w/ many upgraded parts, 3200 Vigilate Stall, CAI, RJC Power Plate, 3.5" THDP, DMH electric cutout, home built 3" mandrel bent exhaust w/ spintech muffler, Translator Plus, 3.5" MAF, q-boost controller, Walbro GSS340M, hotwire kit, 60#injectors, and 275 60 15 ET Street Radials out back.
On the way- Powerstroke(mounted, but needs plumbing ran), and Alky. (hopefully ported heads before too long)
13.035 @ 102.28 on stock turbo and ic on pump gas w/ 1.77 60 ft.
I did the same thing. Mine got to the point where the alum began to surface (looks like aluminum sandpaper shavings on the pipes) A scotch brite pad and some restoration polish found at www.hpcoatings.com did the trick to restore the finish.
So your saying if you want coated headers on your new engine you have to buy the non coated ones then put them on break it in then take them back off to coat them
Not really. Most can/will correct the timing immediately on a predictable new motor setup. As for my situation, I had to run my timing far from stock for it to run right on the stock chip. Timing was way off where it needed to be at idle but closer at cruising speeds, hence the red headers at idle. I had a new chip within a few days, but the coating was damaged slightly.
Mine was also a mishap. I had the wrong timing mark so I had the timing way to retarted for cam break in. I think that if you have everything set right you would be fine.
<b>A wet rag took the white back to the shiney coating</b>
A wet rag? so if i go out there with some water on a rag and wipe real hard it may fix the coating?
<b>A scotch brite pad and some restoration polish found at www.hpcoatings.com did the trick to restore the finish.</b>
what is scotch brite and what is restoration polish and how do i use it? after i try the wet rag trick of course...
and no it wasnt a "brand new" motor it had about 200 miles on it, but it was running at about 2* advance for the first few minutes while i set up the base map so it would idle steady for me to check the timing. i kept running back and forth between the throttle body and the desktop computer (in the car) to set the darn idle, then took me about 2 minutes to figure out how much fuel was too much on the map. sigh*
Originally posted by Kingtal0n A wet rag? so if i go out there with some water on a rag and wipe real hard it may fix the coating?
I wont say it will work for sure, I may have just got lucky. Also I havent even cleaned up my entire headers yet to see if it works on the whole things. I just figured out it worked last weekend when I had the car up on a lift to work on my tranny. I was trying to wipe some oil off of it and realized that it was taking away that dull white that was there from when I had the timing retarded. I tried it on the bottoms of several of the primaries and it seemed to be working. I plan to try to do them completely soon.
Ben
__________________ 86 GN - GT67, B&M Trans Cooler, Built Trans w/ many upgraded parts, 3200 Vigilate Stall, CAI, RJC Power Plate, 3.5" THDP, DMH electric cutout, home built 3" mandrel bent exhaust w/ spintech muffler, Translator Plus, 3.5" MAF, q-boost controller, Walbro GSS340M, hotwire kit, 60#injectors, and 275 60 15 ET Street Radials out back.
On the way- Powerstroke(mounted, but needs plumbing ran), and Alky. (hopefully ported heads before too long)
13.035 @ 102.28 on stock turbo and ic on pump gas w/ 1.77 60 ft.
Am I the only person having issues with getting the header bolts in? I installed the headers a week or so ago but didnt put all the bolts in. Today I go out to put in the final bolts and like 3 of them wont go in because the primary tube hits 'em. I have Stage 8 locking bolts but I dont use the locks ....I guess I'm gonna round off the end of the bolt and just use an allen wrench to screw them in......
Originally posted by 88IROC350TPI Am I the only person having issues with getting the header bolts in? I installed the headers a week or so ago but didnt put all the bolts in. Today I go out to put in the final bolts and like 3 of them wont go in because the primary tube hits 'em. I have Stage 8 locking bolts but I dont use the locks ....I guess I'm gonna round off the end of the bolt and just use an allen wrench to screw them in......
On some of the bolts, in the middle cylinders, I had to start them first with the header pulled back a little from the head because the primary tube swelled about 1/2 from the flange, hope this helps some.
Jason
Originally posted by LilJayV10 On some of the bolts, in the middle cylinders, I had to start them first with the header pulled back a little from the head because the primary tube swelled about 1/2 from the flange, hope this helps some.
Jason
Ditto that. I just dont start them all before you tighten any. It should be fine.
Just got my set- got them bolted up to the motor on the engine stand... i have a very usefull measurement for all of you wondering how much lower they hang than normal exhaust's
refer to the pic below, if someone wants to host it, that's fine by me- dunno if my ISP is gonna aprreciate a bunch of hits lol..
anyways, using the bottom of a stock oilpan as a measurement (specifically the gm pan that comes on the zz3's, which is the same size as out stock pans) it comes out to the headers hanging about 1 3/4" below the oil pan to the lowest point.
Although this seems like a lot to some of you, keep in mind that a lot of people's y-pipes are the actual lowest part in their exhuast systems.
Good luck everyone, here's the pics of mine- ordered through summit, 589 bucks, ceramic coated.... things are beautiful, best quality header i have ever seen to be honest.
Those ceramic coated headers do look better than the Jet-Hot coated ones that I've seen, plus they're cheaper. But I'm curious to know what your guy's opinions are on whether or not to order the 2210's with ceramic coating? Or is a coating like Jet-Hot or similar coating much better as far as reducing temps and looking perty for a long time? If I need to ask this q in a new post I will, but I figured more guys with the 2210's would be more apt to check out this thread.
__________________ 2002 SOM ws6 M6, the 91 never was ressurected after the fire...
Old cars:
91 Z w/383 , all forged bottom end, miniram, TPIS ZZ-X cam, Ported AFR 210's, Pro-built trans, Vig 3200 stall, Hooker LT's, drag susp., 17x9 ROH Snypers, and quite a bit more. 375 rwhp 375 rwtq.
89 Iroc, SuperRam, 219 cam, AFR 190's, sold to the old man, now has 406, runs 11's.
If you really want to do it right then you will want the Jet Hot coating because you can get their special 2000º coating. That level of protection isn't available from Hooker.
Tim
__________________ 2005 Subaru STi, Got RlCE?
My old 11 second 1990 IROC-Z (sold to TGO Member 92 Formula)
When installing my hooker headers I had to install all bolts 1 or 2 turns into the head and then turn all of them evenly to get them all the way in. (88IROC350TPI) And My GTA sounds EXACTLY like TRAXION's car. FYI
i had the same problem with the bolts and i used the stage 8 locking header bolts. you will have to grind down the washer they give u like in the picture they supply where it looks like a C. i had to do that on a few of them to get them to fit.
the only problems i have now is the y pipe its the trans xmember everynow and then and will vibrate(not so bad) but then i also have a few exuast leaks ill have to weld up closed.
does anyone think the spin tech pro street muffler will sound good with the hooker long tubes and mufflex ypipe (i have no cats shhhh)?
i heard that one guys car the one with the blue z28 with the custom true duals and i like how it sounds but thats true dual and not single. also i forgot you it was but someone has there flowmaster i think with the center inlet and outlet and the single dump in the stock location. i was thinkin of running mine becuz everyone around here has the hooker catback and im gettin sick of it
