Timz2882

also im kinda trying to keep it not too loud becuz its still my daily driver until i get a truck, so i think i might stay with the hooker just for now becuz its still quite but when i get on it its loud. just dont want to cops pullin me over and findin no cats on the car ouch $5000 fine

IrocindatZ

Ok ya to the guy who posted the sound clips try reving the engine instead of just letting it sit there..

TRAXION

Ok ya to the guy who posted this ... try contributing something instead of criticizing.

Tim

__________________
2005 Subaru STi, Got RlCE?
My old 11 second 1990 IROC-Z (sold to TGO Member 92 Formula)

IrocindatZ

Sorry i didnt mean to be rude but how am i supose to know waht it sounds like if its just at an idel????

TRAXION

The 'sound' has almost nothing to do with this post. It's really about the installation of LTs. The sound is more dependent on your cam, your catback, and whether you have cats or not. The LTs just emphasize the exhaust pulses. So, if you are looking for a 'cool' WOT sound then you may want to look at other posts. Find a muffler that meets what you are looking for and then run it with no cats.

Tim

__________________
2005 Subaru STi, Got RlCE?
My old 11 second 1990 IROC-Z (sold to TGO Member 92 Formula)

fb305svs

I just finished up my install of the headers myself...

for those who want to know, i converted a 91 TBI friebird, keeping the a/c to a 350 carburated monster...

I did indeed use the mufflex y-pipe. It came to me in a half a dozen or so pieces, and i was able to fit it and weld it to give the maximum ground clearence and chassis and frame clearence bewteen its self and the frame.

I will be the first to say with the hooker cat back (3", i dont have the cash for the muflex 4" cat back rtight now) that it sounds unbelievable.

As for ground clearence, i have stock suspension (springs ans struts soon to be replaced) and the lowest part int he system is the y-pipe. I'm not sure how you guys get away with lowering your cars with this system! my y-pipe is tucked up as high as it goes, and i have measured a max of about 3 1/2" of ground clearence at the lowest poitn in the system, which is NOT the headers, but rather a secton of y=-pipe.

Anyone with any questions, or someone who needs some pics, lemme know, i can help out immensly. I also did this install with the poly motor mounts...

OMINOUS_87

Well I guess I am the latest to join the club.

So far everything has gone real smooth, only 50% done but there is still pleanty of time left in the weekend. I have finished the driver side in its entirety. The LT slipped right in from underneath without having to jack up the motor, I did remove the oil filter and pressure sending unit though, they did cause clearance probs for the initial slide in. After bolting everything up I have nothing touching anywhere, I have all kinds of clearance all around the LT. I am running straight plugs that are a bit tight but not touching, E-tec heads.

I will finish the passenger side later or tomorrow and report back, I am crossing fingers and hoping that it will go as silky smooth as the driver side.

By the way for anyone interested, I picked up my set of 2210 LTs with ceramic coating and Mufflex 3.5" back with custom 3" y-pipe gently used for 400$ cash. Its real nice when the performance *** smiles down on you or when rich folk decide to go twin turbo and sell their parts to the first poor fool with a few bucks in his pocket, aka me.

OMINOUS_87

Well, the passenger side turned out to be a PITA. The LT was actually touching the k-member in 2 places and also touching the brake hard line. The brake line was easy, just a little bending and pushing on it took care of the issue. The k-member touched in exactly the same spot as it did for Traxion, on the a-arm mount, as well as right along the weld of the k-member. I easily cut the weld down and slightly dimpled the LT where the weld was touching, solved. I just put a new disk on the cutoff wheel and plan to go to town clearancing the a-arm mount.

But all and all everything else was ok. I removed the knock sensor and fan switch and the LT slid in pretty easy without the use of a jack. So far its been in and out 3 times to check for clearances, piece of cake.

Well, back to work, gonna get this thig done today.

CamaroEFI

i have a 91 RS 5.0, 700r4. all the suspension is factory except i have shorter tires on the front. im getting headers real soon and i was thinking about the hedman shorties but what i really want is longtubes. i just want to know if i will be able to fit them in there and what i will have to do to get them in the. i've been reading everybody elses post but it seems nobody has the exact setup as me( different head, different engine mounts, different trans, etc) i don't even know if any of that stuff matters but i just want to be sure before i order them.

OMINOUS_87

What do you have that might be different then what is listed above? There are all kinds of players in this thread with all kinds of differnet combos.

Matt87GTA

No pics yet, but mine are in. Here is a rundown on how it went for me (forgive me for some of the redundancy per previous posts/results).

Everything went pretty well. I had to clearance the LCA mounting area of the K member on the driver side per Traxion's instructions, but not on the passenger side. My slip tube primary has lots of clearance. The passenger side did need a little grinding done where the factory welds the upper and lower halves of the K member together. The #4 (I think - I'll edit this as necessary when I get out to look at it again) primary gets close to it as it runs down to the collector. The factory weld was pretty sloppy and it stuck out and was hitting the primary tube. I ground it down until I had a good 1/8" clearance which meant it got pretty thin. I didn't grind all the way through the K member steel but pretty dang close . I doubt a little thin spot like that will affect its rigidity though.

I relocated the knock sensor to the driver side per Traxion's instructions.

I had to move the passenger hard brake line. I removed the bracket in that area to gain more freedom of movement for the line and bent it down and forward and have a solid 3" of clearance all around from the headers.

I already had a ministarter and it fits perfect.

Dipstick tube was not an issue. I put the stock one back in but haven't figured out a mounting setup for the upper part of it yet. Luckily my Canton pan pretty much clamps down on the tube when I tighten the bolts so it certainly won't be going anywhere anytime soon .

I have standard SBC angle plug heads (see sig) and the plug clearance is great - not a single issue at all.

I have the OEM tired rubber engine mounts .

They fit great with the T56 too. No clearance problems at all. I had O2 bungs welded onto both headers. I did the driver side one like Traxion did and close to the same type of setup on the passenger side. I had that one canted slightly at an angle towards the passenger side of the car to get even more clearance from the bellhousing of the T56 but it could be installed straight up without a problem. Ran me $20 at a local race shop plus the cost of the bungs. For now I just stuck my old 1-wire O2 in the passenger side and put a 13077 HO2 on the driver side for actually running the system. The long term plan is for a WBO2 for that side as well as moving sensors from bank to bank to verify the state of tune of both sides. Who knows... maybe even a system like an LT1 PCM that uses dual O2s will be in the picture later on.

The y-pipe has not been started yet. I plan on getting started on building a custom crossmember later this week that will make as much room as possible for the Y-pipe and then taking it to a local guy that has been well recommended for the Y-pipe construction.

I will try to get some pics before the week is over and for sure after the Y-pipe is done.

Hope that helps people some .

Oh yeah, and many many thanks to Traxion and the others that have made this a MUCH easier install than it would otherwise have been .

__________________
1987 GTA / Miniram'd 383/ T56 / 9" w/4.33s : Far from stock, far from done....
Link to the GTA

1999 Trans Am / LS1 / T56 : Some bolt ons...
Link to the Trans Am

ChrisFormula355

I installed my LT's not too long ago. I pretty much did not modify ANYTHING, honestly. The only catch for my car was that I had to install them pretty much vertically from underneath the car, which was a major pain in the *** because I didnt' have enough jacks to get the car that high in the air. I already had a mini starter too, and I have angle plug Canfield alum. heads. Car sounds MUCh better. I also had a dual 3inch X pipe exhaust made at the same time, with under the axle mandrel bent piping and 3inch magnaflow mufflers at the rear of the car, ala late model corvette style Sounds ****ing sweet. Not that loud, just REALLY deep and rumbly.

ChrisFormula355

Oh yeah, did I mention my car is lowered 2 inches?? Ground clearance is fine as long as I go over speed bumps sideways and don't fly through intersections with huge dips in them.

KagA152

ChrisFormula355, do you have any pics or could you get some. I just bought some 2210s and want to do an x-pipe setup but can't find any real good pics besides 4th gens.

David 91RS/Z28 do you have any pics of the passenger side sub frame connector. Im worried there wont be enough clearance for an x-pipe setup.

Does anybody have any exprience with
this starter?

Thanks

__________________

91 T/A - Under the knife
00 GTP - Faster then the T/A was

Momar

I have an h pipe, but plan on switching to an x eventually. You will need to get s extensions to clear the subframe before it goes into the x though. I tried running a pipe straight back and it just hit the subframe on the passenger side.

Ben

ChrisFormula355

I have some awesome in-the-air pics of it from when it was on the lift at the exhaust shop........only problem is that they are on my buddies digital camera. Will post them in the next couple days when I get over to his house.

ChrisFormula355

that starter looks damn near the same as the mini-starter I'm running. I got mine from the local speed shop, was an off-brand so I couldn't tell you the exact brand, but it was about $130. Works sooooooo much better than a stock starter. My stock t-5 starter couldn't even crank over my new 355 in my firebird. I had to upgrade just to start the new motor!

camarojoe

I have the x-pipe setup you're talking about. It's the same one 11Sec91Z has, I think he has some pics. Check out 87_TA, I think his setup is similar. My mufflers dump right under the rear axel. I'm going to eventually move the mufflers back and run mandrel pipes up over the axel on both sides which will be a tight fit. I think a car looks much nicer a "full" exhaust.

If you're thinking about the summit mini-starter, it works great. The price is right too.

__________________
2002 SOM ws6 M6, the 91 never was ressurected after the fire...


Old cars:
91 Z w/383 , all forged bottom end, miniram, TPIS ZZ-X cam, Ported AFR 210's, Pro-built trans, Vig 3200 stall, Hooker LT's, drag susp., 17x9 ROH Snypers, and quite a bit more. 375 rwhp 375 rwtq.

89 Iroc, SuperRam, 219 cam, AFR 190's, sold to the old man, now has 406, runs 11's.

rjmcgee

Ok, I read this whole damn thing before asking, will these fit with a mechanical clutch linkage? Has anybody tried it? Thanks

__________________
86 IROC
350, 200 cc Pro Action heads, XE274 cam, RPM Airgap intake, T5, 4.10 posi.

KagA152

ChrisFormula355, ever get pictures?

ChrisFormula355

Yes, look in the post a couple below this one.

ChrisFormula355

or just check em out here:

http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/atta...postid=1562744

http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/atta...postid=1562748

Dean-B4C6SPD

As Traxion and others mentioned before, my Hooker LT hits in the exact spot as photographed by Traxion. (passenger side)

Well, my question is.. how much clearancing is TOO much clearancing - that you start to affect structural rigidity ???

I clearanced the exact spot that was photographed..but by clearancing, I first cut 1 inch rectangle, then 2 inches, now it is almost 4 inches of a rectangle that I have clearanced out of the LCA area (like the photo shows) It seriously won't fit otherwise... motor mounts have like only 8k miles on them... (It is just the standalone #8 cylinder pipe thing that hits)

I'm wonderng how that will affect strength and such??

Dean
92 B4C, LT1 and 6spd

OMINOUS_87

Before you get to carried away on grinding the K-member down to nothing for clearance, dont forget how effective a hammer is.

I did quite a bit of grinding and then called it quits and lightly dimpled the #8.

Just mark the spot that doesnt clear with a felt pen and then slightly dimple it with a hammer, it is helpfull to put a thin rag on the #8 as to not ruin the ceramic coating.

Dont foget to get some Ultra Copper RTV around that #8 before you slip it in permanently.

Matt87GTA

OK, got a digital camera for Christmas (yeah! ) so I shot a few of my Y-pipe and how low my collectors ended being (very , but then again, so is the SFC X-member as you can see). You can see a little bit of my custom fabbed T56 crossmember too. Check em out:











It's 3" and it has the rear collector flanges for facilitating pulling the trans and not having to take the entire exhaust system off the car to do so.

__________________
1987 GTA / Miniram'd 383/ T56 / 9" w/4.33s : Far from stock, far from done....
Link to the GTA

1999 Trans Am / LS1 / T56 : Some bolt ons...
Link to the Trans Am

fb305svs

I have to say, mine hangs pretty low, but since the addition of new shocks, i never hit on anything anymore... altho, granted, my car is not lowered...

86IROCNJ

Nice pictures! And that is with the pro kit? Looks low, but good. Any side shots of the car?