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Old 05-25-2005, 06:58 PM   #251
BOTTLEDZ28
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Is it me or do 90% of the links in this thread no longer work? I am trying to find pics of these headers installed with the mufflex y pipe for the 6 spd.
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Old 06-01-2005, 12:21 PM   #252
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Quote:
Originally posted by BOTTLEDZr28
Is it me or do 90% of the links in this thread no longer work? I am trying to find pics of these headers installed with the mufflex y pipe for the 6 spd.
I checked and all the pics that are in my initial first post are still working fine.

Tim
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Old 06-01-2005, 01:16 PM   #253
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Could be the timing since the thread is getting fairly old. I know when I do my searches most of the stuff is getting dated! Can't believe I have been on here building my car for so long already and it isn't anywhere near my "completion" stage.

On a side not, Traxion, how's the STI? I love my WRX. It's reliable, as powerful as an M6 C5 for under $2.5K in mods and its a four door to boot with decent gas mileage!! Fun cars aren't they? Visit NASIOC at all?

Now back on topic
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Old 06-03-2005, 12:35 PM   #254
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Quote:
Originally posted by 86IROCNJ
Could be the timing since the thread is getting fairly old. I know when I do my searches most of the stuff is getting dated! Can't believe I have been on here building my car for so long already and it isn't anywhere near my "completion" stage.

On a side not, Traxion, how's the STI? I love my WRX. It's reliable, as powerful as an M6 C5 for under $2.5K in mods and its a four door to boot with decent gas mileage!! Fun cars aren't they? Visit NASIOC at all?

Now back on topic
I'm all over NASIOC, IWSTI, WRXFORUM, etc. ... Just under a different screenname

Love the STI ... and can you believe I already have Cobb's StreetTuner so that I can tune it myself ... hehe.

Tim
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Old 06-10-2005, 11:50 PM   #255
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I just finished installing a set of 2210's on my TA today,Here are some problems and cures that I ran into..First the right side,what I thought was going to be the hard side turned out to be the easy side..I did not have jack the engine up,the right side header went right in...I ordered a jegs mini starter part # 555-10001
well it would not fit,I have a 168 tooth flywheel witch moves the starter out some. the mini starter would not clear no matter how I clocked it's postion,it would hit the header mainly right on the solnoid wiring termnial..not good..so I tried my ori GM large high torque starter...fit perfect..go figure...the slonoid being on top cleared fine.The header cleared all frame points fine...Now the left side,removed the oil filter,looked like plenty of room,no go.. Took the left side mount loose rolled the engine up,no go..I should mention that I have a oil pan with kick outs on both sides, this led to not enough room to roll the header in,I wound up cutting the header flange out between #5 & #7 cly about two and half inch's.This gave me enough room to work the header past the oil filter boss on the block and roll the header in past my pan..I hated cutting on a new set of coated hooker's but this will make future repairs much easier..all work was done on a lift witch helps a ton....ground clearence looks great...I have victor jr heads with angle plugs that clear fine and stock motor mounts..hope this helps anyone considering the 2210's
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Old 06-11-2005, 12:22 PM   #256
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heres a few pics
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Old 06-11-2005, 12:25 PM   #257
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another
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Old 06-11-2005, 12:26 PM   #258
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top right
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File Type: jpg 434 top rt.jpg (90.2 KB, 501 views)
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KTRE 12 BOLT,Coan 350 with brake & 8 inch conv.,434ci with victor jr heads,Edelbrock nitrous kit
best et in 1/4 10.34 @ 131.09 mph..
60ft 1.522 car weight 3651 with driver..

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Old 06-11-2005, 12:27 PM   #259
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one more
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Old 06-11-2005, 12:28 PM   #260
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last one
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Old 06-11-2005, 06:38 PM   #261
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I am looking for a pic(s) of the the person that had a spohn crossmember and a T56 hooked up. I just bought one of Spohns torque arms that have the crossmember and driversahft loop built into it and I realy dont want to find out that there will be some serious fitment issues.

also, I really dont want to buy the mufflex y pipe just to have to sut it al up to get it to fit right so I thinkIam going to have to make my own y pipe. Where are some good places where i can buy some pipe to get me started? Any places on the web?
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Old 09-02-2005, 10:00 PM   #262
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Does anybody make a y pipe that is a bolt in to the 2210 headers?

Bill
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Old 09-08-2005, 06:56 PM   #263
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I just got mine, bolted to the afr heads to make sure they clear. they look great, all the plugs clear with out a problem. the closest one in #3 which clears by 3/4 of an inch with the spark plug loose and no gasket on the header all said and done I bet 7/8 of an inch will be my clearance. the rest of the plugs arn't even near the primary tubes
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Old 09-08-2005, 08:30 PM   #264
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Hey did you headers go right in with out any clearance problems?

Bill
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Old 09-08-2005, 09:02 PM   #265
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I should find out this weekend

I just need to find out a few specs for lift befor I get the heads milled (which will be done tomarrow)
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Old 09-09-2005, 12:46 AM   #266
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Yeah what I meant was with the parts in your car? Like the crossmembers and a arms.

Bill
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Old 09-09-2005, 10:43 PM   #267
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Well I'll post some of my problems installing Hooker Longtubes(2210) on my car, 92 RS with a 1968 327 engine. The driver side went in with no problems at all, went in from the bottom. The passenger side was a whole different story. I had to change my starter to a Ministarter as the old one was too big and wouldn't fit at all. I moved the knock sensor to the driver's side as clearance was an issue. I also had to do some modication ( cutting and grinding) to the frame where the A arm bolts to as the header would not clear it from the bottom. Once all that was taken care of the header fit no problem.Took me about 6 hours to do both sides. I have straight plug heads and some of the spark plugs are pretty close, I think I'll get some shorty plugs. I also bought the Mufflex TPI-Y Pipe and the 4" Exhaust with Spintech Muffler. The Mufflex system went in great. I only have one leak, near the header collector in the Y-Pipe. I'm going to get the system welded tomorrow at a Exhaust Shop. If I would of paid more attention to Traxion's post it probably would have taken me less time to install the headers.
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Old 09-10-2005, 02:14 PM   #268
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LOL Right on. What type of motor mounts do you have? Some of the guys have not had to change the starter. Just wondering. Where did you get your ypipe from and how much was it? Oh yeah did your ypipe bolt right up to your headers?

Thanks

Bill

PS Sorry about the questions I am just unfamiliar with the mufflex pipe and was trying to search but sucked at that.
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Old 09-10-2005, 06:14 PM   #269
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Quote:
Originally posted by weberflorida
Yeah what I meant was with the parts in your car? Like the crossmembers and a arms.

Bill

I had to install the heads befor I could bolt up the headers.


they fit fine. I had to remove the knock sensor (still have to put it on the drivers side)

I will have to grind where the a-arms mount though as right now they are very close and I think the movment of the eng. will cause them to rub. I think that is it. both went up from the bottom just have to jack up the car Really high. I left the oil cooler off when I put the eng. in the car


I will have to look at the battery cable pictures again because it is very very close to the header


I have to fab up the y-pipe still but, I am putting togeather this car ( eng. was removed and gas is 5 years old) so I have tons of little things to do


original mounts 100k
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Old 09-10-2005, 06:43 PM   #270
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How do you run the wire for the knock sensor if you move it to the other side of the engine? Is it pretty easy?
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Old 09-10-2005, 10:48 PM   #271
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I currently have the stock type motor mounts and they are stock, may get new ones. I got my Y-Pipe from Mufflex as well as my exhaust. Go to www.mufflex.com. Yeah the whole exhaust system went in with no real problems, just had to weld one joint a little as it was leaking, I used the clamps that were supplied by Mufflex to seal the joints. To run the knock sensor I just cut the wire spliced in an extra length and rerouted it. I routed it under the throttlebody, behind the alternator, down by the power steering pump and along the oil pan.
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Old 09-11-2005, 12:26 PM   #272
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Cool sounds easy enough!!
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Old 09-13-2005, 09:06 AM   #273
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Quote:
Originally posted by rattlesnake_dm
Well I'll post some of my problems installing Hooker Longtubes(2210) on my car, 92 RS with a 1968 327 engine. The driver side went in with no problems at all, went in from the bottom. The passenger side was a whole different story. I had to change my starter to a Ministarter as the old one was too big and wouldn't fit at all. I moved the knock sensor to the driver's side as clearance was an issue. I also had to do some modication ( cutting and grinding) to the frame where the A arm bolts to as the header would not clear it from the bottom. Once all that was taken care of the header fit no problem.Took me about 6 hours to do both sides. I have straight plug heads and some of the spark plugs are pretty close, I think I'll get some shorty plugs. I also bought the Mufflex TPI-Y Pipe and the 4" Exhaust with Spintech Muffler. The Mufflex system went in great. I only have one leak, near the header collector in the Y-Pipe. I'm going to get the system welded tomorrow at a Exhaust Shop. If I would of paid more attention to Traxion's post it probably would have taken me less time to install the headers.
Word. I think everything you just talked about was discussed in the very first post I made.

Tim
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Old 09-13-2005, 07:41 PM   #274
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Hey Tim,
Yeah pretty much the same circumstances for my car. Now If I could only learn to burn my own stuff as well as you do, I'll be set. But that's a whole different topic.

Dustin
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Old 09-25-2005, 08:51 PM   #275
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how are you guys keeping the starter wires from melting? I put some refective heat cloth on them but, they are very close to the primary tube. I am concerned they will touch when I am driving



this thing sounds pissed off though. I put a cam in it that I got for free, (one of my friends bought it and never used it) just to see how it works and it has a pretty good lope to it. made my own y-pipe from a new slp- sl1 longtube y-pipe (also a free be) used the slp cat back (thirdgen one) I don't think I ever heard a single pipe system sound this good

once I get the idle rpm firgured out better I will have to get a sound clip

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Old 09-26-2005, 06:08 PM   #276
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I took a piece of metal tubing and custom bent it to run along the oil pan, then I ran the starter wires throught the pipe. It protects the wires from heat, water, dirt, had no problems so far.
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Old 09-29-2005, 07:18 PM   #277
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the smaller wires made it below the eng. mount? looks like they are pretty well stretched now. the batt cable will clearly go that far but, the rest?
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Old 01-06-2006, 03:34 AM   #278
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Does anybody have a Spohn T56 tranny x member and y pipe pic? Most of the pics are autos and the others dont come up.I had to make my own Y and dont like it.Tooo low to the ground for me.Nobody seems to have a nice 3" Y for this setup w/ 2210's. PLEASE help?????????
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Old 01-23-2006, 02:58 AM   #279
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