Notes on Installation of Hooker Long Tube Headers (2210) - Page 7 - Exhaust - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

fb305svs · 05-17-2006, 11:24 PM

yeah - i've actually hit my headers because of flying over a road dip... i did have my shocks ont he softer settings...

anyways, that #8 tube also barely touches on mine too, it wasnt so bad that i wasn't able to clearence it...

It almost sounds like the motor is tilted forward too much - motor tilt has a lot to do with whether or not thta ps header hits or not... i found that out the hard way when i had to fab up my own trans mount and screwed up the first try in an effort to get the ds angles better...

Scorpner · 05-17-2006, 11:58 PM

That might be what my problem is. But I would think it's tilted back too far, because if it were higher in the back it wouldn't be as bad. It seems to be wedged between the A arm mount and the back of the part that crosses over.
Thanks for the idea, I never thought of it that way.

fb305svs · 05-18-2006, 12:12 AM

well, if things are stock, then it should line up ok...

as far as engine tilt goes, it's a theory - but it may be the problem - if it is tilted back (aiming the trans towards the ground) then it will be tyring to kit the crossmember side. If it is tilted forward, it would be trying to jam that #8 tube into the a-arm mount...

If it's enough of a problem, my suggestion is drop the a arm, get a torch on it, get the area cherry red and take a 2.5lbs sledge to it and push it in... this way your not removing material and there is plenty of room inside for the a-arm to swing..

Scorpner · 05-18-2006, 09:09 AM

O.k,
I see what you mean, but in my case the #8 is riding more on top of the a arm mount not from underneath. It's kind of like a "funnel" sitting on top of the two points. I'm still waiting to hear from Dart on the heads though.
Thanks.

flyitlikustolit · 05-18-2006, 10:45 AM

i'd just like to see a pic of where people modified the a-arm on there cars for those that ground it down or cut it off like traxion did.

Scorpner · 05-18-2006, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyitlikustolit

i'd just like to see a pic of where people modified the a-arm on there cars for those that ground it down or cut it off like traxion did.

I think there are two different cases. One is where it hits on the bottom of the A arm mount where the headers run parallel to the ground.

The other is when it hits along the corner of the mount like in the pics I took.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

CamaroSS_Black · 05-18-2006, 06:34 PM

can some one tell me where they sell filters that I can install between my brain and mouth?

flyitlikustolit · 05-24-2006, 02:09 AM

after getting no replies with pics, i decided to try it out anyway. I used uncoated 2210's, 79 350 block, moroso deep sump pan, and a th350 with spohn's torque arm and x-member. I HAD NO FITMENT ISSUES WHATSOEVER. i didn't clearance anything, and they didn't hit anything. i did use a mini starter to make it easier (LT1 starter). other than that, no changes at all. it was easy as hell. passenger side cam from the bottom, so did the driver's side. they both even bolted in with no problems. did have trouble getting around the dipstick. i had to remove the driver's side dipstick to make it easy, but then slipped it back in. thought this might help.

roughskinjrz · 07-04-2006, 09:57 PM

im purchased a set of these headers, uncoated going in my 86 trans am. im running performer rpm heads, but i have eibach sportline springs, what kind ground clearance issues am i gonna have.

who else has lowered vehicles with these hooker long tubes?

fb305svs · 07-05-2006, 12:21 PM

This thread really needs to have some time put into it and condensed so that all the questions are answered in a page or two, instead of 7....

Anyways, I have the hooker long tubes, and the car is lowered with hotchkiss springs... i have touched the collectors before, either on a road dip where i'm going fast or speed bumps... nothing that has caused any more damage than a scrape. Keep in mind here in ct our roads pretty much suck everywhere.

Anyways, if your car is lowered more than an 1.25 in the front, they are garenteed to hit things... get good shocks

roughskinjrz · 07-05-2006, 09:19 PM

yeah its lowered 1.6" in the front but it doesnt look like it, it still seems to sit kinda high but i have kyb gr2 shocks. i have read all pages actually and people just say they are lowered...not by what springs, or how much..

DTL504 · 10-14-2006, 10:43 PM

This is a modification you might want to do before installing or coating the 2210, for the clearance of the #7 pipe. Something that I did and it work really well for $100.00

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ex...-complete.html (Hookers 2210 Modification Complete)

BOTTLEDZ28 · 10-15-2006, 09:07 AM

I totally agree with the above modification. I had the same clearance problem with the #7 plug using these haders and AFR heads with ANGLE plug design. I switched over to these 2210s from the SLPs I had because of clearance issues with about half of the plug boots. Granted I still had issues with these headers but it wasnt hard to "fix" this problem and I stepped up to a better flowing header which should prove itself on the dyno for me when I get back there. I will try and get pics of my modification shortly.

Also, if anyone wants to attempt this by themselves then go for it. I had a spare head lying around so it was a little easier to work on the header on the table. If you can get an old SBC head then do it because the header should be bolted up tight to the head when you go to weld it up so the flange dont warp.

Mkos1980 · 12-20-2006, 01:06 AM

Just got some LT's so I will be telling my story soon lol. I also ordered a K member so I hope its real easy to drop in lol.

Mkos1980 · 12-20-2006, 11:54 PM

Could you use this on the slip pipe with RTV

onebad82z · 12-21-2006, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyitlikustolit

I HAD NO FITMENT ISSUES WHATSOEVER. i didn't clearance anything, and they didn't hit anything. i did use a mini starter to make it easier (LT1 starter). other than that, no changes at all. it was easy as hell. passenger side cam from the bottom, so did the driver's side. they both even bolted in with no problems

I believe this is due to frame dimension differences between early and later year thirdgens as you also have an '82.All the frame dimensions I have found confirmed this back when I did frame repair work at a body shop.I have never actually measured, just going by Mitchell data and experiences from those that have installed. My 2210 headers went in easier than SLP and Hedman shorties much to my suprise.I had to slightly clearance the back of the k member on the passenger side...basically grind the weld down that runs down the center of it.That and I also cut out and welded in a different radius bend on the #7 tube as others have done for plug clearance with my AFR's.Easy fix if you have a welder and some time.

Mkos1980..is your slip pipe leaking excessive?I have never heard of any major issues with this spot and see no need for a clamp there.Copper RTV and install.

Mkos1980 · 12-21-2006, 08:59 PM

no lol I just bought them they are in transit.

p.haze92 · 12-21-2006, 11:09 PM

Hell, with a Tubular K-Member, I bet there is no problems. I would have clearanced a little if I hadnt changed my mind with what I was doing.

Nonni · 04-06-2007, 07:03 PM

I am installing 2210´s and like most of you I am having a problems with the K-member. Is it save to grind the K-member?

I have a ZZ383 with Fast Burn Heads.

Thanks, Nonni

Nonni · 04-08-2007, 01:40 PM

Now I can honestly say I had a big problem with a Hooker, the passenger side one. I had to grind and weld a lot. If I would have known it would be that much of a trouble I wouldn´t have used 2210´s. My engine is ZZ383 with Fast Burn heads.

Joseph Andres · 04-08-2007, 01:41 PM

I am having problems with the #8 slip tube leaking. I have applied plenty of copper rtv on the #8 tube and the header itself, allowing more than 24 hrs for it to dry. I even put a clamp around it and it still leaks. About a day or 2 of driving, all of the rtv gets blown out. Does anyone have any suggestions?

drex · 04-14-2007, 08:44 PM

i just bit the bullet and ordered the 700.00 monsters they call the 2210's..im excited...i have a 350 with double camel hump heads, no heater box, moroso solid motor mounts, a muncie 4 speed with manual z-bar clutch linkage, and a mini starter. am i gonna be in trouble? the moroso mounts are lower? i heard the clutch linkage isnt a problem tho..anyone with moroso mounts? also thinking about getting the mufflex y pipe is it dual 3" to a single 4"? also i can go to mufflex in trenton they are 40 minutes away... anyone wanna share?

Joseph Andres · 04-15-2007, 08:30 PM

The mini starter helps a lot and so do the moroso solid mounts (which I have in my car) The solid mounts help clear the headers better than the stock mounts i had. Good luck!

btw, Drex i just saw where you were from and I met up with you in Edison when i bought that 85 TA dash cluster....I ordered and installed the mufflex y pipe myself and drove down to mufflex and had them do the rest of the 4" exhaust with a Borla straight through muffler. If you look at Muffelx's website, they feature my car in their add for the Y-pipe. Man they do awesome work. Later, Joe

drex · 04-16-2007, 08:12 AM

i remember that..good stuff... so what if i installed the long tubes and went to mufflex had them put on the y-pipe and the same 4" back...what would it cost with install at mufflex?

Joseph Andres · 04-16-2007, 10:17 AM

Personally I would try and save some money and do it all myself.....The Mufflex Y bolts right in and the rest of the exhaust (if you order from mufflex) is also straight forward. The only reason I drove to Trenton was to have them custom fit the muffler I provided.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/at...xhaust-007.jpg

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/at...xhaust-003.jpg

drex · 04-16-2007, 12:23 PM

yeah i definitely would try but 1.) i heard the mufflex y-pipe didnt always fit perfectly all the time and 2.) my experience with exhaust is always bad.. always leaks and doesnt fit...... what did they charge you with the y pipe and the rest of the 4" tubing and install... i will find a muffler and cat and bring it to them ... is it gonna knock me outta my chair? and how long did they have the bird?

Joseph Andres · 04-17-2007, 01:16 AM

It took me some time to get the y-pipe to fit correctly but not that bad. The price of the y pipe is on the website. Mufflex charged me about $650 for parts and labor. All I did was supply them with a muffler. They supplied the intermediate, over axle and tailpipe. I waited for it to get done and it took a little over an hour to weld everything up. Btw, you will not have any type of catalytic converter with this exhaust system. PM me so we don't hijack the thread.