ExhaustPost your questions and suggestions about stock or aftermarket exhaust setups. Third Gen exhaust sound files and videos!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
ok... i have decided on the SLP headers over the TES because of the stainless steel and the 1 3/4 size, i have the dual cat setup on my formula, will there be any cutting of welding required? i want to do this myself and a i cant do those things. how hard is it to re-install all the AIR stuff? headers are definatly my next mod, im just trying to get as much info as possible before i drop around 500 bucks on these things.
------------------
89' Firebird Formula WS6 L98,AFPR, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster, Hypertech chip, K/N filter cone(no air cleaner box),flowmaster 80 series, hypertech air foil, modified MAF, ported plemum, koni shocks, edelbrock trailing arms, EdelBrock Panhard bar, subfame conectors, March Pulleys, Jet fan switch,Throttle body bypass, BFG drag radials, Edelbrock strut tower brace, 3.27 posi rear, B&M deep tranny pan, B&M Shift kit...
Yes, there will be some cutting and some welding. When I got my headers, they sent clamps with the pipes that connect to the cats. I wouldn't even bother with themn unless your going to use them just to get to the muffler shop to get them welded. If you can get a hacksaw, doing it the hard way, you can cut the exhaust your self. You only need to cut the y-pipe in 2 places and they are right on the welds. As for putting the AIR crap back on, no problem at all. If you got the install kit, it comes with rubber hoses, clamps, ties, bolts, and etc. It will make it much easier.
Just some advice though, take your time. It might look overwelming but if you plan out what your doing it will fly by. Don't try to rush it. If you cant do something, set it aside and try some thing else. The whole task will take a weekend, that's also after pounding down cold ones while during the install. Just kidding. If you need any thing else just let us know. Good Luck!
------------------
'91 Z-28 5.7, SLP 1 3/4 headers, 4 inch Mufflex/Flowmaster cat back, gutted cats, Edelbrock intake, 8.5mm Jacob wires, MSD Blaster coil, S&W subframe setup, Jacob Pro Street Ignition, complete Kenwood system.
so, if i want to, i could intall the headers, then drive to the muffler shop with open headers and have it conected there?
another thing, about header gaskets. is there some better type of header gasket i can get to prevent having to change them. Also will i need a certain type of spark plug wire to get around the headers, and is there some sort of wire lume that will help.. thanks!
If you get SLP headers, spend the extra $$$ and get the install kit. The gaskets that came with it have been working fine since I had mine installed.
You will need 90 degree spark plug wires in order to avoid burning. Ask around for some wire looms, but wire ties in strategic locations work just fine
------------------
92 Camaro RS LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Performance:
SLP 1 3/4" Headers (Coated by Paul Barry Motorsports), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Fastchip Performance PROM, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Xact 8mm wires, Open Air Element w/K&N Filter, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, Edelbrock performer intake
If you dont get the install kit, youll ned header bolts with an allen key cut into the head because it's too tight for a socket or wrench. I'd recomend the install kit, especially considering you are retaining the AIR system.
The headers are awsome, I bought mine from the factory fire, so they were covered with crap, so I sandblasted and polished them, and now they look awsome, plus stainless turns purple and other colrs when they get hot, really cool.
I'm not sure but Z-Racing was doing a GP on them. I got 1 5/8 SLP for dual cats with JetHot coating on Y-pipe and headers + install kit(no AIR) shipped for $620.
Has anybody else seen the bad welding job inside one of the exhuast ports?
------------------
89 formula 350, 73000k, 9-bolt 3.73, gutted MAF,dynomax muffler,gutted air box,kn,accel coil wires,dunlop 60/235
g-tech best(9 runs)14.48@101.1 0-60=5.91
track best(3 runs muncie,in 88 degrees)14.51@96.0 60' 2.089
in the garage waiting to go in are alum. L98 heads(bowl job by scoggins-dickey),ported high-flo edelbrock base,Jethot coated slp runners,zz4 cam 209/221 .474/510,1LE alum. driveshaft,TCI 2200 stall,LPE feul reg.,TPIS air foil,Flowmaster ForceII cat back,Gold crane 1.5 rollers,
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by L98FORM89: I'm not sure but Z-Racing was doing a GP on them. I got 1 5/8 SLP for dual cats with JetHot coating on Y-pipe and headers + install kit(no AIR) shipped for $620.
Has anybody else seen the bad welding job inside one of the exhuast ports?
</font>
Search this board, the link was just posted to the GP.
And yes, some of the welding is bad, but its nothing compared to Edelcrock's bad welding!
