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I was looking over the thread and wanted to know why headman shorty headers can not be installed, With a mini starter? I have that combo and it fits purfect. Just wanted to throw that out. Thanks -Eric
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Originally posted by 90tbi305 I was looking over the thread and wanted to know why headman shorty headers can not be installed, With a mini starter? I have that combo and it fits purfect. Just wanted to throw that out. Thanks -Eric
I have a 91 camaro with a 350 tbi. What would be a good set of hedders and y-pipe for my car? i am having a hard time trying to find hedders to fit my car. Thanks Gregg
Just read this whole thread from a-z Its a great thread except for the random injector debate right in the middle. LOL Just had a question on the 1 5/8 hedman. Are they choking my lt1 in anyway? Im in the middle of a possible upgrade but trying to decide if i need it. I have the hedmans and was wondering if i would see any real gain by going to 1 3/4 slp. by gain i mean 10 or more hp.(see sig 4 info) Im about to do the y pipe mod and if i understand it correct you just hack it off at the section were they join together and weld in 3'' from there back. correct?
BTW if any one has problems with the install saggy motor mounts and shortys dont mix well. caused my hedmans to tap my frame and throw off my ignition timing.(ks)
had a question about the flowtechs.did you see any gains from them?I bought them because of price amd hoped they would be good atleast for a little while,my tpi intake is pretty much stock.any help would be greatly appreceiated.im hopeing to upgrade my intake soon and then go with a better header
Just read this whole thread from a-z Its a great thread except for the random injector debate right in the middle. LOL Just had a question on the 1 5/8 hedman. Are they choking my lt1 in anyway? Im in the middle of a possible upgrade but trying to decide if i need it. I have the hedmans and was wondering if i would see any real gain by going to 1 3/4 slp. by gain i mean 10 or more hp.(see sig 4 info) Im about to do the y pipe mod and if i understand it correct you just hack it off at the section were they join together and weld in 3'' from there back. correct?
BTW if any one has problems with the install saggy motor mounts and shortys dont mix well. caused my hedmans to tap my frame and throw off my ignition timing.(ks)
Thanks,
Jeff
I think the SLP flanges tend to warp, and leak, but otherwise they flow the best.
On my next project (C4 vette), i'll probably go with a hooker supercomp 1 3/4.. I don't know why hooker refused to make a short 1 3/4" for fbody.
The hedmans were ok, and I ran some of my fastest times with them and the 355. (119-120mph in the 1/4).
The only issue is, are your hedmans d-port to match your LT1 heads?
The only issue is, are your hedmans d-port to match your LT1 heads?
Nope. This is a big issue for me right now but i think im going to try to open them up so they will match. I dont think theres that much clearance difference so hopefully i can fix them to fit
Quote:
had a question about the flowtechs.did you see any gains from them?I bought them because of price amd hoped they would be good atleast for a little while,my tpi intake is pretty much stock.any help would be greatly appreceiated.im hopeing to upgrade my intake soon and then go with a better header
.
flowtechs are pretty much like your stock setup. I had them on my old setup with no noticed gains so i trashed them and went to the hedmans. hedmans are cheap enough and work 100x better than the flojunks. My advice is if they are new to return them and buy the hedman.
Are these worth a dime and any idea on what I would have to cut and what convertors/ exhaust sytem I should use.. I want to get the 305 into the 13's with it.
As is 100% stock, TPI 305, T-5, Dual Cats, Fake Dual Exhaust, 3.45's.
I need to stay emissions legal, but the only thing that pisses me off is the factor that they aren;t tuned.
EDL-68762
i have hedman headers and y pipe on my 350 tpi (87) and just thought id share somethig with you lot!! nice power gain when i had them installed (inititialy a 305. gave me about 20-25 bhp) but so far ive gotten through about three sets of gaskets!? i think the problam being that the head side of the flange is not flat and every time i tighten up the bolts it cuts into the gasket and then the gaskets crumbles away causing a VERY anoying 'ticking'! is there any good headers with a flat flange?
I had an issue with the driver’s side flange of mine, the center 2 tubes would leak with just the supplied gasket but I added one of the individual port style metal foil gaskets to the middle ports (I think I put a little copper rtv between it and the supplied gasket also) and bolted it down and it was fine for like 11 years…
Re: Amassing header info into one well put together list....
.....Would you be willing to tackle the Corvette Ram's Horn style of headers for alegedly much better installation and less babysitting????? Nitro
__________________
Started IROC project in 2006 thinking to mimic a modern day stealth Mad Max's police Interceptor. Am attempting to maximize every possible cfm out of the TPI system. /Just replaced ENTIRE suspension with Spohn-Moog-UMI/ //Dying to learn PROM programing
So from what I have read on this thread 2055's are the way to go, but I just got a free set of coated 2460's that the previous owner never even bolted on. So I was thinking that getting a dual 2.5 to 3 flowmaster y pipe mounted back where that converter was and attach to undecided cat back system. Sound like a good set up? I shouldnt have a problem getting two 2.5 pipes through there? Thanks for the info.
You can solve the warped flange issue by cutting the flange. Cut it between the front primary tube and the second primary tube and between the back (4th) primary tube and the third tube. This allows the front and rear tubes to "float" and allows you to tighten down the three sets of tubes without affecting the others. I traced the tick problem on my Hedmans to a warped flange as well. I also installed a ministarted with the Hedmans.
My .02 on header selection. 1 3/4 is generally too large on a street driven car. This has been discussed extensively on the FirstGen website and the most common recommendation is 1 5/8 up to 500HP. I support a 438 RWHP supercharged 355 with a set of Hooker 1 5/8 primary headers (3-inch collectors) with a dual 2.5 inch exhaust in my 69 Camaro.
The only benefit you get from shorties is better flow than the stock cast iron manifolds. Since the tubes are far away from being equal length, there is no scavanging effect. You *might* make the same amount of power with ported or Extrude-honed stock manifolds.
Like to post this info for us 91 and 92 owners that was provided to me the hooker 2055 that only list on Summit for 86 to 90 3ed Gen:
Hooker only lists those applications for which the headers bolt into the stock exhaust. In 1991, the factory went from a single 3" cat to dual 2-1/4" cats for the "high performance" system. The single cat was only 2-1/4". The 2055 y-pipe doesn't directly fit either the dual cat or single 2-1/4" cat, so the listing only goes to 1990.
If you're willing to change your cat(s), the 2055's will fit in all other ways.
I ones I make are better than any that have been mentioned.
3/8th" thick one piece flanges, 1 3/4" tubes, raised ports (for new syle heads), no clearance issues, 2 1/2" ball and socket collectors, coated and only $450 you do have to make the mandrel Y-pipe as stated earlier.
Im def getting a set of D D headers when i figure out what im gonna do for a y pipe. For the price they are best for our cars and i cant wait till i order them.
You can solve the warped flange issue by cutting the flange. Cut it between the front primary tube and the second primary tube and between the back (4th) primary tube and the third tube. This allows the front and rear tubes to "float" and allows you to tighten down the three sets of tubes without affecting the others. I traced the tick problem on my Hedmans to a warped flange as well. I also installed a ministarted with the Hedmans.
The leak that I mentioned a few posts up was in between center 2 tubes… no way that cutting would fix it, and the headman flanges are not thick enough that they should prevent the headers from sealing…
Quote:
My .02 on header selection. 1 3/4 is generally too large on a street driven car. This has been discussed extensively on the FirstGen website and the most common recommendation is 1 5/8 up to 500HP. I support a 438 RWHP supercharged 355 with a set of Hooker 1 5/8 primary headers (3-inch collectors) with a dual 2.5 inch exhaust in my 69 Camaro.
That’s a reasonably safe rule of thumb, but as with everything, it depends. There are situations that you’ll make more power with 1-3/4” headers on a 305, but it more depends on design and matching the combination. WRT to when the tubes become a restriction… besides the usual testing, they usually start blowing flange gaskets repeatedly when they’re a restriction (or the exhaust is).
Quote:
The only benefit you get from shorties is better flow than the stock cast iron manifolds. Since the tubes are far away from being equal length, there is no scavanging effect. You *might* make the same amount of power with ported or Extrude-honed stock manifolds.
Again… depends….
It’s not hard to see how even the worst of the shory tubular headers, and the hooker and the headman headers that we’re discussing are sometimes referred to as shorties, which I usually refer to as ¾ length headers because they do tend to have primaries and collectors that are long/distinct enough to make a difference in how the engine runs.
Where I totally disagree is that the primaries have to be equal length to have any scavenging effect (clearly proven with mustang shorties and with the minimal HP differences between other wise identical equal and non). Secondly, there is no way that you will make the same power with heavily ported manifolds that you would make with the worst shorties.
I ones I make are better than any that have been mentioned.
3/8th" thick one piece flanges, 1 3/4" tubes, raised ports (for new syle heads), no clearance issues, 2 1/2" ball and socket collectors, coated and only $450 you do have to make the mandrel Y-pipe as stated earlier.
Dyno Don’s superfantastic, extra spectacular, wonderful headers…
why did you bother making your own of a design that looks like similar to existing designs?
I think he Did it to perfect the problems with the 700$ headers and offer us more options. IE They fit without denting, collectors are bigger, there coated and 1 3/4. After reasearching Dons headers they are the best shorty made for the thirdgen handsdown. Looks dont sell headers funtionality does
why not use the 2460s and they now have a ypipe for them.
1) The y-pipe is a terrible piece. 2-1/2" after the "Y". Restrictive. Is intended as an LO3 off-road manifold/y-pipe/cat replacement. Would require expensive modification in order to make it acceptable.
2) The cost of the 2460HKR's and y-pipe is about $50 less than 2055HKR's before you modify the 2460HKR y-pipe. After you spend the bucks to do that, you're over the price of 2055HKR's, which you can bolt in.
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Another available header to add to the list is the Dynomax 88733. 1-5/8" primary, 3" collector, y-pipe included. At the time of this writing, they are about $100 more from Summit than 2055HKR's. Haven't seen a pic of them, don't know what the y-pipe looks like.
Last edited by five7kid; 01-09-2007 at 03:10 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I have the 1.75" headers on my iroc. I like them alot, but like a lot of people say, they are expensive. As expected with the larger primaries they did not bolt up to the heads with ease. If you have A/C then it is even more fun. I had to bolt mine up like you put a puzzle together. To help out I am using a couple different style header bolts. On the drivers side one of the primaries was touching the steering. Couldn't do anything but dimple the tube a little. Also moved one of the brake lines to the inside of the steering shaft to get it away from the headers. I am using a moroso oil pan, which is larger than the stock one, so clearance around the pan, y- pipe, and factory k- member was "VERY" tight. Almost nonexistent. Pretty good header even with the fitment issues. Howerver, if I had it to do over I would have bought the 1.625" version so the header bolts would install easier.
Just wondering... is having your headers/y-pipe ceramic coated worth it? I've had to replace the stock y-pipe on my '92 RS 305 three times and I'm willing to try anything that will dramatically increase the life of the headers once I decide to purchase them.
There is allot of information on the headers of this thread.
I am building a bracket 86 camaro. It is strip down, all interior,all a/c and heater, wiring and so on has been removed. I am only going to have a sbc in it for about a year at first. My question is I would like to used long tube headers, what would be the best way to go. How will the long tubes fit with out every thing in the way. The engine is only going to have about 300hp and will used a 350 turbo, with all of the stock suspension in place for now. We are going to a full tube chassie with bbc at the end of next year. So just trying to get by for now...Thanks
I have summit shorties (flowtechs) and there were clearance issues on both sides. Crappy fitment, the collectors were les than 1/8" away from the crossmember on both sides. I wish the collectors were centred in the space away from everything.
I recently purchased a t3/t4 hybird turbo. The end that connects to the header is rectangular. While regular headers are round. Which type headers would perform the best and if possible wht dual exhuast system would accomidate great headers and a turbo? I've never dealt with turbos and seem to not be able to find anyone i know that truly knows what they are donig when it comes to hooking it up. I definately dont want to blow my car to peices so any help on the best headers for the prices please send my way.
Just wondering... is having your headers/y-pipe ceramic coated worth it? I've had to replace the stock y-pipe on my '92 RS 305 three times and I'm willing to try anything that will dramatically increase the life of the headers once I decide to purchase them.
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I can't speak factually about the purported underhood temperature savings as I did not do before and after measurements when I replaced the stock manifold.
I can tell you that the exhaust coming out the back of the car feels hotter than it did before...
The main reason to get ceramic coating on your headers is the heat issue. Your question deals more with rust... I got my headers and Y pipe coated. They have been on the car for about 4.5 years now and have not changed color. Were they not coated I would expect them to be red with rust...
When I replaced my exhaust system it was with the intention of not having to do it again for a LOOOONG time. I got ceramic coated headers going into a SS steel cat and then a SS steel catback...
The short answer to your question is Yes, Ceramic coatings are worth the investiment.
Speedy
__________________ Speedgraphic
'90 RS Vert
New Paint, Top, Interior, Rims, Tires. IROC Swaybars, Alston SFC's, Billet Aluminum LCA's, Panhard rod and STB by Edelbrok. Hedman headers, Carsound CAT and Banks Catback. Restored close to stock. Installing XM Radio was one of the best things I ever did!
"It's hard to slow down, when you were born to run."
I need headers for my 88 IROC with a GMZZ 383. D port and shortys. What are my options? My car is a lowered vert so long tubes are not an option. Anyone?
anesthes you might want to update the Headman part #'s as this thread is a sticky.
The new ball and flange Y-pipe that goes with the 68470 hedders is actually 17478.
(The old collector style is 17470 as I found out today when it wouldn't fit the hedders)
anesthes you might want to update the Headman part #'s as this thread is a sticky.
The new ball and flange Y-pipe that goes with the 68470 hedders is actually 17478.
(The old collector style is 17470 as I found out today when it wouldn't fit the hedders)
I can't. Mod's can only edit posts in their own forum. One of the other mod's might be willing to edit the info though.
i got a extra pair of heddman long tube headders that dont fit on the pass side bc of the starter is there anyway can get them on the shorty headers i have are giving me a true dual problem
ow about doug's 3321's? i just found these headers going through my summit catalog and im very tempted on going with them $599 coated longtubes 3/8's flanges. the only thing is im wondering if theyll work with a manual trans?
ow about doug's 3321's? i just found these headers going through my summit catalog and im very tempted on going with them $599 coated longtubes 3/8's flanges. the only thing is im wondering if theyll work with a manual trans?
Long tube headers on a thirdgen is going to suck no matter how you slice it. They might fit better or worse than the known hookers. Maybe someone tried a pair and will chime in ?
i put a jegs catback on my t/a and i think it sounds pretty nice. 3in intermidat pipe and 2.5in outlets. i would like to get rid of the cat and put a nice y-pipe and shortyes on it but i cant find anything cheap (under $400) im also afraid of breakin bolts in the head when i go to take the headers off. the jegs catback was only like 270 with out shipping i think it was a pretty good deal
What you want to do is ditch the dual cat setup, get a 3" mandrel cat back (like hooker, dynomax, etc). Get the 2055's or whatever headers that are 3" after the y. get a high-flow cat (carsound, extremeflow, arvin, etc) and have a good day.
I'm sure I'm being an idiot (and n00b) here, but better to be thought of as an idiot here than to waste a big chunk o money in the long run ..
Do you mean it's best to ditch the whole 2 cats... and have the Y from the headers lead into one pipe with one 3" cat and then the catback?
Currently I have crap headers and a Flowmaster muffler and er.. modified cats. But I'm planning on ripping the whole thing out and doing probably Dyno Don headers and a catback system (maybe Borla, because I heard Magnaflow is very (ie too) quiet with the system I am planning)... but was on the fence on how to handle the cats. From this it sounds like I should ditch them have have one?
What are some thoughts on eddlebrock headers? I like mine but I'm gonna be going through my engine and showing it up a bit and the ones i have look pretty old so i was considering a switch other are significantly better in performance
what about the hedmen elites??? same as the 2055's? do they include y-pipe?
I am running a set of Hedman Elites to a Hedman Y pipe on a Ram Jet 350 in an 1988 Camaro. The RamJet uses Vortec heads. The clearance seems very tight on the Drivers side and almost touches the bottom of the AC airbox on the passenger's side. How big of a problem is this and has anyone found a good solution? I think I have less than 1/8", before I put a heat shield in. Hedman said there are spacers from Transdapt that would raise the engine, but that seems like the wrong direction. Ideas?
I'm sure I'm being an idiot (and n00b) here, but better to be thought of as an idiot here than to waste a big chunk o money in the long run ..
Do you mean it's best to ditch the whole 2 cats... and have the Y from the headers lead into one pipe with one 3" cat and then the catback?
Currently I have crap headers and a Flowmaster muffler and er.. modified cats. But I'm planning on ripping the whole thing out and doing probably Dyno Don headers and a catback system (maybe Borla, because I heard Magnaflow is very (ie too) quiet with the system I am planning)... but was on the fence on how to handle the cats. From this it sounds like I should ditch them have have one?
Do not ditch the dual cats, they provide better flow.
Add this up if you will....most cats are the same dementions so, do you want all 8 cylinders going thru one, or 4 cylinders thru each?
Hello my name is Gene im new to the site and have an exhaust question i have an 83 camaro factory 305 5 spd but i replaced then engine and trans with a rebuilt 1976 350 and 350 trans why wont the 305 exhaust manifolds bolt up and will headers from a 1981 camaro fit thanks alot i appreciate any help i can get
Hello my name is Gene im new to the site and have an exhaust question i have an 83 camaro factory 305 5 spd but i replaced then engine and trans with a rebuilt 1976 350 and 350 trans why wont the 305 exhaust manifolds bolt up and will headers from a 1981 camaro fit thanks alot i appreciate any help i can get
Hi Gene
The only header that will work are 82-92. I would ditch the manifolds while you got them out if you can. Try headman headers and y pipe setup, it should work fine with your stock 350 and they can be found used fairly cheap.
LOL Just had a question on the 1 5/8 hedman. Are they choking my lt1 in anyway? Im in the middle of a possible upgrade but trying to decide if i need it. I have the hedmans and was wondering if i would see any real gain by going to 1 3/4 slp. by gain i mean 10 or more hp.(see sig 4 info) Im about to do the y pipe mod and if i understand it correct you just hack it off at the section were they join together and weld in 3'' from there back. correct?
