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Old 02-22-2006, 08:27 PM   #101
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I was looking over the thread and wanted to know why headman shorty headers can not be installed, With a mini starter? I have that combo and it fits purfect. Just wanted to throw that out. Thanks -Eric
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Old 02-22-2006, 09:52 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally posted by 90tbi305
I was looking over the thread and wanted to know why headman shorty headers can not be installed, With a mini starter? I have that combo and it fits purfect. Just wanted to throw that out. Thanks -Eric
I wanna see pictures.

-- Joe
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Old 03-22-2006, 10:32 AM   #103
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Need hedders

I have a 91 camaro with a 350 tbi. What would be a good set of hedders and y-pipe for my car? i am having a hard time trying to find hedders to fit my car. Thanks Gregg
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Old 04-01-2006, 02:24 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anesthes
I wanna see pictures.

-- Joe

hers a pic of the mini starter,headman shorty headers, headman y pipe.
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Old 04-01-2006, 06:44 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90tbi305
hers a pic of the mini starter,headman shorty headers, headman y pipe.
Thats not a ministarter. Thats a stock starter.

This is a mini starter..
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Old 04-02-2006, 04:02 AM   #106
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this is a pic of the strater when it was out side of the car.
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Old 04-02-2006, 08:39 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90tbi305
this is a pic of the strater when it was out side of the car.
The picture looks like an OEM type small starter.. Can you take more of the starter on the car?

What model # starter is it?

-- Joe
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Old 04-22-2006, 10:59 PM   #108
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Just read this whole thread from a-z Its a great thread except for the random injector debate right in the middle. LOL Just had a question on the 1 5/8 hedman. Are they choking my lt1 in anyway? Im in the middle of a possible upgrade but trying to decide if i need it. I have the hedmans and was wondering if i would see any real gain by going to 1 3/4 slp. by gain i mean 10 or more hp.(see sig 4 info) Im about to do the y pipe mod and if i understand it correct you just hack it off at the section were they join together and weld in 3'' from there back. correct?

BTW if any one has problems with the install saggy motor mounts and shortys dont mix well. caused my hedmans to tap my frame and throw off my ignition timing.(ks)

Thanks,
Jeff
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Old 04-23-2006, 10:13 AM   #109
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had a question about the flowtechs.did you see any gains from them?I bought them because of price amd hoped they would be good atleast for a little while,my tpi intake is pretty much stock.any help would be greatly appreceiated.im hopeing to upgrade my intake soon and then go with a better header
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Old 04-23-2006, 10:49 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92rs85berlintta
Just read this whole thread from a-z Its a great thread except for the random injector debate right in the middle. LOL Just had a question on the 1 5/8 hedman. Are they choking my lt1 in anyway? Im in the middle of a possible upgrade but trying to decide if i need it. I have the hedmans and was wondering if i would see any real gain by going to 1 3/4 slp. by gain i mean 10 or more hp.(see sig 4 info) Im about to do the y pipe mod and if i understand it correct you just hack it off at the section were they join together and weld in 3'' from there back. correct?

BTW if any one has problems with the install saggy motor mounts and shortys dont mix well. caused my hedmans to tap my frame and throw off my ignition timing.(ks)

Thanks,
Jeff
I think the SLP flanges tend to warp, and leak, but otherwise they flow the best.

On my next project (C4 vette), i'll probably go with a hooker supercomp 1 3/4.. I don't know why hooker refused to make a short 1 3/4" for fbody.

The hedmans were ok, and I ran some of my fastest times with them and the 355. (119-120mph in the 1/4).

The only issue is, are your hedmans d-port to match your LT1 heads?


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Old 04-23-2006, 11:20 AM   #111
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Quote:
The only issue is, are your hedmans d-port to match your LT1 heads?
Nope. This is a big issue for me right now but i think im going to try to open them up so they will match. I dont think theres that much clearance difference so hopefully i can fix them to fit
Quote:
had a question about the flowtechs.did you see any gains from them?I bought them because of price amd hoped they would be good atleast for a little while,my tpi intake is pretty much stock.any help would be greatly appreceiated.im hopeing to upgrade my intake soon and then go with a better header
.

flowtechs are pretty much like your stock setup. I had them on my old setup with no noticed gains so i trashed them and went to the hedmans. hedmans are cheap enough and work 100x better than the flojunks. My advice is if they are new to return them and buy the hedman.
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Old 04-25-2006, 03:25 PM   #112
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Are these worth a dime and any idea on what I would have to cut and what convertors/ exhaust sytem I should use.. I want to get the 305 into the 13's with it.

As is 100% stock, TPI 305, T-5, Dual Cats, Fake Dual Exhaust, 3.45's.
I need to stay emissions legal, but the only thing that pisses me off is the factor that they aren;t tuned.
EDL-68762

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Old 08-20-2006, 02:46 PM   #113
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i have hedman headers and y pipe on my 350 tpi (87) and just thought id share somethig with you lot!! nice power gain when i had them installed (inititialy a 305. gave me about 20-25 bhp) but so far ive gotten through about three sets of gaskets!? i think the problam being that the head side of the flange is not flat and every time i tighten up the bolts it cuts into the gasket and then the gaskets crumbles away causing a VERY anoying 'ticking'! is there any good headers with a flat flange?
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Old 08-21-2006, 02:06 AM   #114
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I had an issue with the driver’s side flange of mine, the center 2 tubes would leak with just the supplied gasket but I added one of the individual port style metal foil gaskets to the middle ports (I think I put a little copper rtv between it and the supplied gasket also) and bolted it down and it was fine for like 11 years…
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Old 10-09-2006, 03:11 AM   #115
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Re: Amassing header info into one well put together list....

.....Would you be willing to tackle the Corvette Ram's Horn style of headers for alegedly much better installation and less babysitting????? Nitro
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Started IROC project in 2006 thinking to mimic a modern day Mad Max's police Interceptor. Am attempting to maximize every possible cfm out of the TPI system. /Just replaced ENTIRE suspension with Spohn-Moog-UMI/ //Dying to learn PROM programing
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Old 10-11-2006, 02:28 AM   #116
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corvette style headers will hit the motor mounts/k-member
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Old 10-11-2006, 09:55 PM   #117
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corvette factory headers...

If the factory units hit, are there any other type of 'Ram-Horn' design manifolds that do fit our F bodies???
Nitro
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Old 10-11-2006, 10:07 PM   #118
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So from what I have read on this thread 2055's are the way to go, but I just got a free set of coated 2460's that the previous owner never even bolted on. So I was thinking that getting a dual 2.5 to 3 flowmaster y pipe mounted back where that converter was and attach to undecided cat back system. Sound like a good set up? I shouldnt have a problem getting two 2.5 pipes through there? Thanks for the info.
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Old 11-07-2006, 02:16 PM   #119
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You can solve the warped flange issue by cutting the flange. Cut it between the front primary tube and the second primary tube and between the back (4th) primary tube and the third tube. This allows the front and rear tubes to "float" and allows you to tighten down the three sets of tubes without affecting the others. I traced the tick problem on my Hedmans to a warped flange as well. I also installed a ministarted with the Hedmans.

My .02 on header selection. 1 3/4 is generally too large on a street driven car. This has been discussed extensively on the FirstGen website and the most common recommendation is 1 5/8 up to 500HP. I support a 438 RWHP supercharged 355 with a set of Hooker 1 5/8 primary headers (3-inch collectors) with a dual 2.5 inch exhaust in my 69 Camaro.

The only benefit you get from shorties is better flow than the stock cast iron manifolds. Since the tubes are far away from being equal length, there is no scavanging effect. You *might* make the same amount of power with ported or Extrude-honed stock manifolds.
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Old 12-17-2006, 10:34 AM   #120
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Like to post this info for us 91 and 92 owners that was provided to me the hooker 2055 that only list on Summit for 86 to 90 3ed Gen:

Hooker only lists those applications for which the headers bolt into the stock exhaust. In 1991, the factory went from a single 3" cat to dual 2-1/4" cats for the "high performance" system. The single cat was only 2-1/4". The 2055 y-pipe doesn't directly fit either the dual cat or single 2-1/4" cat, so the listing only goes to 1990.

If you're willing to change your cat(s), the 2055's will fit in all other ways.
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Old 01-01-2007, 11:38 AM   #121
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why not use the 2460s and they now have a ypipe for them.
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Old 01-01-2007, 08:54 PM   #122
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I ones I make are better than any that have been mentioned.

3/8th" thick one piece flanges, 1 3/4" tubes, raised ports (for new syle heads), no clearance issues, 2 1/2" ball and socket collectors, coated and only $450 you do have to make the mandrel Y-pipe as stated earlier.

See here http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/so...3-finally.html (Finally)
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Old 01-01-2007, 09:13 PM   #123
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Here is the dual cat setup I custom build for them.
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Old 01-01-2007, 10:00 PM   #124
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Im def getting a set of D D headers when i figure out what im gonna do for a y pipe. For the price they are best for our cars and i cant wait till i order them.
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Old 01-02-2007, 04:50 AM   #125
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nice set of headers, and the way you did the dual cats, but i am not going back dual cats.
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Old 01-05-2007, 03:30 AM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gheatly View Post
You can solve the warped flange issue by cutting the flange. Cut it between the front primary tube and the second primary tube and between the back (4th) primary tube and the third tube. This allows the front and rear tubes to "float" and allows you to tighten down the three sets of tubes without affecting the others. I traced the tick problem on my Hedmans to a warped flange as well. I also installed a ministarted with the Hedmans.
The leak that I mentioned a few posts up was in between center 2 tubes… no way that cutting would fix it, and the headman flanges are not thick enough that they should prevent the headers from sealing…

Quote:
My .02 on header selection. 1 3/4 is generally too large on a street driven car. This has been discussed extensively on the FirstGen website and the most common recommendation is 1 5/8 up to 500HP. I support a 438 RWHP supercharged 355 with a set of Hooker 1 5/8 primary headers (3-inch collectors) with a dual 2.5 inch exhaust in my 69 Camaro.
That’s a reasonably safe rule of thumb, but as with everything, it depends. There are situations that you’ll make more power with 1-3/4” headers on a 305, but it more depends on design and matching the combination. WRT to when the tubes become a restriction… besides the usual testing, they usually start blowing flange gaskets repeatedly when they’re a restriction (or the exhaust is).

Quote:
The only benefit you get from shorties is better flow than the stock cast iron manifolds. Since the tubes are far away from being equal length, there is no scavanging effect. You *might* make the same amount of power with ported or Extrude-honed stock manifolds.
Again… depends….

It’s not hard to see how even the worst of the shory tubular headers, and the hooker and the headman headers that we’re discussing are sometimes referred to as shorties, which I usually refer to as ¾ length headers because they do tend to have primaries and collectors that are long/distinct enough to make a difference in how the engine runs.

Where I totally disagree is that the primaries have to be equal length to have any scavenging effect (clearly proven with mustang shorties and with the minimal HP differences between other wise identical equal and non). Secondly, there is no way that you will make the same power with heavily ported manifolds that you would make with the worst shorties.
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Old 01-05-2007, 03:43 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyno Don View Post
I ones I make are better than any that have been mentioned.

3/8th" thick one piece flanges, 1 3/4" tubes, raised ports (for new syle heads), no clearance issues, 2 1/2" ball and socket collectors, coated and only $450 you do have to make the mandrel Y-pipe as stated earlier.

See here http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/so...3-finally.html (Finally)

They look just like a set of the hookers with air tubes and thicker flanges added.

What are they? You don't mention a name or anthing anyhwere that I saw...
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