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I made up a chart of <B>SHORTY</B> headers for Thirdgen's. These should help people and save on a little research time when trying to figure out the "best" headers. There is no opinions in numbers, so when someone tells you that there "such a so" header is better than another header you can compare them for real. I've tripple verrified the info in this chart.
<PRE>
Header Gauge Flange PRI OD PRI ID COL OD Col ID Pipe OD Pipe ID CAT OD CAT ID
Hooker 2055* 18 0.31 1.63 1.53 3.00 2.20 2.50 2.40 3.00 2.90
Hooker 2460 16 0.31 1.63 1.51 3.00 2.80 n/a n/a n/a n/a
Hedman 68470* 18 0.25 1.63 1.53 3.00 2.80 2.25 2.15 2.50 2.40
Flowtech 16102FLT* 18 0.25 1.50 1.40 2.50 2.30 2.25 2.15 2.50 2.40
SLP 3004* 17 0.38 1.63 1.52 3.00 2.20 2.25 2.15 3.00 2.89
SLP 30005* 17 0.38 1.75 1.64 3.00 2.20 2.25 2.15 3.00 2.89
</PRE>
<HR>
(And now for the opinions)
<B>Hooker 2055.</B> Prolly one of the best headers available. 50-state legal. The best part of this header is the y-pipe. 2.5 " mandrel bent, into a 3" pipe. Primaries are large 1 5/8 18g. Problems: collector gets down really small. It could be modified to flow more however. Avg price: </B>$365.00 for the set</B>
<B>Hooker 2460.</B> Initially appears to be a good header. It's more
durable than a 2055 header (and heavier), however the thicker gauge primary (16g) is more restrictive. The collector is larger than the 2055, but by the time the exhaust gases reach the collector they have prolly slowed down anyway. No Y-pipe is available for the 2460, but you can fabricate one out of some mandrel bends - budget about 150.00 and a long weekend. Avg price: <B>$150.00 for the headers. </B>
<B>Hedman 68470.</B> Decent headers. Not as durable as hooker, but very lightweight! I got mine ceramic coated by ACS.
Heres the deal. The <B>OLD</B> style Has large 3" collectors with 3 bolt flange, large 1 5/8 18g primaries, and a y-pipe is available.
The new style uses a ball and socket flange like a Hooker 2055.
The y-pipe is a 2.25" pipe that y's off into a 2.5". However, you can cut this at the y and use 2 mandrel bent 3" peices. The collector design on the pipe (for the y) expands out to about 3.25" which allows you to easily weld the 3" section in. <B>Y-PIPE WONT FIT WITH MINISTARTER!!</B> Also, you'll need to weld an o2 bung on the header collector. Avg price: <B>$135.00, Ypipe #17470: $95.00. ($215 set) </B>
<B>Flowtech 16102.</B> I personally used these headers, and they are
junk! The flanges are machined VERY poorly, the collectors are 2.5", tubes are 1.50" OD, and the y-pipe is designed like the stock, so you can't just cut off the 2.50" section and replace it with 3" mandrel bends. The headers are VERY heavy, and so is the y-pipe, but this doesnt appear to help any with heat retention. Avg price: <B>$200.00 for the set.</B>
<B>SLP.</B> SLP makes the largest tube header you can buy in a shorty for a Thirdgen. The OEM style collectors are better than the the Hooker 2055's, and are 2.5" The headers are made out of 17 gauge stainless steel, so the 1 5/8 version actually has SMALLER tubes (ID) than Hooker 2055, hedman 68470 headers. The Y-Pipe won't connect directly to your cat, you will need a 45* angle. The y-pipe
is actually a nice design, and is 2.25" tubes into a y-collector. The tubes actually bend 90* back, so the y-collector faces the back of the car. This is a unique design.
I just switched from hedman to SLP 1 3/4, So I've now tried 3 of the most popular headers for thirdgens.
Slp no longer sells non ceramic coated versions. So the 1 5/8 headers are $649, and the 1 3/4 are $699. Add the 45* adaper at $35. Avg price: <B>$684 to $734 for the set.</B>
Updated 11/7/2005.
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Last edited by anesthes; 11-07-2005 at 09:12 PM.
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Edelbrock TES and Dynomax aren't on the list. Some may say that's appropriate, but...
Those who make dual-cat versions are TES, Hedman, & SLP.
Hooker 2460 do not come with A.I.R. pipes, but they can be specified for them with a "0" (zero) prefix.
Hedman emmissions-legal setups are 68481 (single 3" cat) and 68491 (dual cats). Include A.I.R. & O2 fittings, y-pipe. About the same price as TES/Hooker 2055 (dual-cat version is less, for some reason).
Very good thread and I applaud you for going the extra effort to really research the different headers. Your finding are basically what I have found to be true as well and have included in one of the stickies too. The 2055's are awesome! lol
Uh, you might want to edit that post, it takes up like 4 screens....
Other than that, good work! It's nice to see some info put together on the exuast board so users don't have to go looking everywhere. I think so far we have almost eveything covered, now all we need is a review of catback systems... Volunteers anyone?
As i've explained in previous posts, its the ID of the primaries that really matter.. It doesn't exactly make sense to go with SLPS though because of cost..
The table in my last post was found on the 'net. I have not verrified the information.. What i'd like is, people to respond to this with measurements, etc of their setups and I'll edit the first table in the post. Then this should be made into a sticky..
If anyone would like to "review" there headers, I'd like to add that to the first post too.
Quote:
so why won't the 2055's fit on 91-92?
are there any hookers for 91-92 that come w/y-pipe?
Do yourself a favor and call american coating specialties,
281-446-6203 and get the set from them.. Coated 68470's is like $240.00, and the y-pipe 95.00 (which is cheaper than summit).
They will also weld the o2 bung on it, which is required (make sure you remind them).
MAC also has a powder coated short headers for a thirdgen you have to take out the smog pump pipes but overall these are the best headers ive found ... you can really feel the difference and time difference depends on what mods you got ...Just my opinion but I recomend them.. kinda high priced but good..
Originally posted by IROCThe5.7L Money is not a problem. I want the best power, which I see alot of people saying SLP.
I like the idea of no air tubes, just don't want to run into the basic slp header problems and have to dent the header.
Well if you are going by the chart, which I conclude to be true from my research as well, the hooker 2055 y pipe is a much, much better design and will support more power than the slp's will. The hooker's only come in 1 5/8 primaries, but they just happen to be the biggest ID 1 5/8 headers available. If you want to go bigger you will have to get the slp's, but it is kind of pointless seeing as how the y pipe is only 2 1/4 inch compared to the hooker 2 1/2. You will also most likely have to dent the header primary or modify your steering shaft, which is kind of scary to me. I have the 2055's and cut the air tubes off myself and it was pretty easy if I must say so. Besides the huge rip off with the slp's, the hookers are not only cheaper, but are a much better design overall.
Originally posted by IROCThe5.7L Thanks for the input!
Hopefully I will reach my goal of a very low 14 by next spring
no problem, that shouldn't be too hard at all with your car. Oh and on a side note, I dunno, what your plans are for the car, but the 1 5/8 primaries should be fine for over 400 hp, so they would work great with a stock or mild L98.
Originally posted by 25THRSS no problem, that shouldn't be too hard at all with your car. Oh and on a side note, I dunno, what your plans are for the car, but the 1 5/8 primaries should be fine for over 400 hp, so they would work great with a stock or mild L98.
The car did a best of 14.82@94mph, with a bad 2.28 60ft and a full tank of gas. I believe a better launch and not going to the track like a retard with a full tank of gas would put me close to mid 14's.
Im hoping with the 2055's, AFPR, and bigger injectors, I can hit low 14's. Although the 2.77's arent going to help much.
__________________ 1988 IROC-Z 14.0@98mph 2.07 60 Ft (Stock setup)
L98 now with a little AFR, and a bit of comp cam. - [The new "slightly" faster L98]
Originally posted by IROCThe5.7L The car did a best of 14.82@94mph, with a bad 2.28 60ft and a full tank of gas. I believe a better launch and not going to the track like a retard with a full tank of gas would put me close to mid 14's.
Im hoping with the 2055's, AFPR, and bigger injectors, I can hit low 14's. Although the 2.77's arent going to help much.
Sound like a good setup. Good luck. BTW, why bigger injectors?
Originally posted by 25THRSS Sound like a good setup. Good luck. BTW, why bigger injectors?
I'm almost 90% sure I have a few leaky injectors. One more winter project to do Just gotta get a FP gage to verify. If I do, I figured id throw larger ones in.
__________________ 1988 IROC-Z 14.0@98mph 2.07 60 Ft (Stock setup)
L98 now with a little AFR, and a bit of comp cam. - [The new "slightly" faster L98]
Mods:
Suspension: Eibach pro kit springs, KYB struts, shocks, and TDS wonder bar, SFC's
Induction: K&N air filter, 52mm throttle body, port matched SLP runners and plenum. AFPR
Exhaust: Hooker headers with Jet-Hot, Catco cat, and Hooker Cat-back.
Tranny: built up 700r4 with Trans-go shift kit
cooling: Griffin radiator,185 Degree therm, 200 degree Fan switch
Future modes: New seats
Hooker prolly has the best quality hands down. I researched the 2460's for about 3 weeks solid and, its just not worth it.
I went with a hedman 68470. The header is pretty much the same as a hooker 2055. The y-pipe is obviously not as good, but (looking at it on the table) will take about 20 minutes to remove the 2.5" section and replace it with a 3" (its a 90d, and a 45d)
Some would argue the 2.25 pipes from the headersto the Y are too small, but thats the appropriate size for a 3" collector. (most 3" reducers are 2.25" OD pipe)
Figure, a 2.25 OD 18g pipe (hedman) has 2.201 ID. Thats 3.63" of area. Two pipes = 7.26" of area.
3" OD 16g pipe is 2.87"id which is 6.40" of area. So when we
consolidate our pipes into the Y we lose .86" of area.
I say 16g 3" pipe because most cat-backs are 16g.
The 2.50 pipes on the 2055's will be like 2.40" ID and 4.50" of area. So 9.04" of area into 6.40" of area. Loss: 2.64" into the y.
I'm curious which bottleneck actually is worse?
Now the SLP's use 17g stainless, which is around 7.12" of area for both pipes, into the 6.40" area cat back.
Am I over complicating this? maybe.. But one should understand
the geometry involved. For example, the dual vs single debate:
Dual 2.5" exhaust is gonna be: 9.04" of area
Single 4" exhaust is: 11.70" of area
So a 3" to 4" single setup is a heck of a lot better than most dual
setups. Of course, a dual 3" would outflow the single 4".
Please don't bring up that debate again! Besides it actually has only a little to do with surface area. You would have to take a class in thermodynamics to understand how it works. I eventually want to take that class, but I haven't gotten that far yet...
Originally posted by kfoley Please don't bring up that debate again! Besides it actually has only a little to do with surface area. You would have to take a class in thermodynamics to understand how it works. I eventually want to take that class, but I haven't gotten that far yet...
Why do most manufacturers of mufflers for our cars have 3 inch inlet and dual 2.5 outlets?
Thats a good question. By the time the exhaust gases reach the muffler, they've prolly cooled down and contracted.
Quote:
Please don't bring up that debate again!
What "debate?"
Quote:
You would have to take a class in thermodynamics to understand how it works. I eventually want to take that class,
Which are going to be different on each car, since exerted exhaust temps are going to be relitive to a number of different parimeters. Although which seems to almost be linear is that, a high HP engine exerts higher temp gasses than an economy engine. Our engines are not very efficient, thermally. But this can work to out benefit (i.e, turbo!). The hotter gases will have more velocity at least, even if they take up a larger area.
The 2055 y-pipe will not fit dual cat cars correct? So therefore the pipe is completely useless, or can you still use the pipe as far down as where they connect, but the rest would be useless? And then you'd have to have the rest fab'd? Anyone?
edit: got some of my q's answered, but still have some.
Last edited by thecoolone; 10-31-2003 at 10:55 PM.
You can cut it before the y, and extend it with some mandrel bends..
Whats absolutely useless is the dual cat setup. UNless you fab your own. the factory one is junk, and the catco isn't even better. same size pipe, same y.
So what you're saying is, cut before the y, and have each pipe from the header, go directly into each cat? (1 header pipe into 1 cat, assuming I kept the stock dual cat (I'd like too))
Or are you saying, cut off the y part, weld in some mandrel bends so it can fit the dual cat setup, and then weld the y back onto the new pipes, in time for the dual cat setup. And then have to seperate the single pipe (the original hooker y-pipe) back into 2 pipes so each can goto one cat...
I'd like to use the y part so I can have 1 cutout before the cats.
*shrug, I dunno... I'm getting a little frustrated as to what the best option would be.
Last edited by thecoolone; 11-01-2003 at 12:36 AM.
So what you're saying is, cut before the y, and have each pipe from the header, go directly into each cat? (1 header pipe into 1 cat, assuming I kept the stock dual cat (I'd like too))
The factory setup goes 2 pipes into 2 cats into 1 pipe. The way it goes into 1 pipe isn't really a Y, it dumps both into a small section. Thats kinda lame. Not to mention the transision angles.
What you want to do is ditch the dual cat setup, get a 3" mandrel cat back (like hooker, dynomax, etc). Get the 2055's or whatever headers that are 3" after the y. get a high-flow cat (carsound, extremeflow, arvin, etc) and have a good day.
The other thing you can do, is get a flowmaster Y, and a box of mandrel bends nad make your own dual cat setup with dual high flow cats. But we're talking a lot of effort.
I like the idea of no air tubes, just don't want to run into the basic slp header problems and have to dent the header.
I have the 1 3/4 SLP's and they do not required a dent to fit properly. Mine did rub after initial installation. I called the guys at SLP and asked why they rubbed and they told me I probably had "saggy motor mounts." I never heard of saggy mounts before so I asked some buddys and confirmed they do sag. So I replaced just the driver side with a poly mount and now I actually have about 3/4 inch clearance between the header and the steering.
These cars are getting old gentleman and rubber does not last forever.
Originally posted by FastZ28*84 I have the 1 3/4 SLP's and they do not required a dent to fit properly. Mine did rub after initial installation. I called the guys at SLP and asked why they rubbed and they told me I probably had "saggy motor mounts." I never heard of saggy mounts before so I asked some buddys and confirmed they do sag. So I replaced just the driver side with a poly mount and now I actually have about 3/4 inch clearance between the header and the steering.
These cars are getting old gentleman and rubber does not last forever.
It's a hit and miss. Not every car is the came, but more often then not the SLP headers will have problems. There are tons of posts about this.
SLPs are just too much $ for me, but more so, I've heard too many complaints. I said from the beginning that I'd go with the 2055s, and that's what I'm sticking with. Can't wait to get them from Jet-Hot. They quoted me $570 to the door, does that sound right?
the 2055's or the MAC headers will probably be fine for the higher hp applications. i know people running 10's with 1 5/8's shorty headers with 3" catbacks.
Originally posted by mw66nova the 2055's or the MAC headers will probably be fine for the higher hp applications. i know people running 10's with 1 5/8's shorty headers with 3" catbacks.
But when you get to 550HP+....would that tiny extra ID of the SLP's really start to show? I mean, the losses might be minimal to a certain point.