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Old 12-27-2003, 11:43 AM   #51
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Just upnplug the light....
it;s just ans emission's light witch you have now disconected so light is useless now so just pul the bulb out .........
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1969-S/S AMX 390 Daul TBI.9.63@143mph
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Old 12-27-2003, 11:48 AM   #52
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yeah I was going to do that,why does it only come on when its warms up ?? it seems to run the same
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Old 12-27-2003, 11:51 AM   #53
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Computer ain't realy on line till engine is warm....
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1969-S/S AMX 390 Daul TBI.9.63@143mph
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Old 12-27-2003, 03:03 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally posted by 91 GTA Ramair2
Computer ain't realy on line till engine is warm....
The ECM is 'online' as soon as you turn the key.

Tim
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Old 12-27-2003, 09:19 PM   #55
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i wouldnt really disconnect the SES light either. my computer tells me to change my egr (or at least i am having a problem with it) while crusing around 70 mph for a period of time, i fixed it buy staying under 70
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Old 12-27-2003, 09:39 PM   #56
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Quote:
wouldnt really disconnect the SES light either. my computer tells me to change my egr (or at least i am having a problem with it) while crusing around 70 mph for a period of time, i fixed it buy staying under 70
That also helps avoid guys like me in crown vic's from being in your rear view mirror.

-- Joe
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Old 12-28-2003, 08:39 AM   #57
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speeking of crown vics..... did anyone see Monster Garage
lastnight they built the race car line painter and they were tryin it out and a cop showed up and did a smoke show.. now thats a cop!

sorry bout getting off topic... I dunno maby I should just change my EGR but daaaamn big expense for nothing maby
thats some gas money
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Old 12-29-2003, 12:24 AM   #58
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I took the pump out and and no problems whatsoever.
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Old 01-02-2004, 08:20 PM   #59
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plugging the exhaust

I plan on taking my AIR out, just wondering what size/thread bolts do I need to plug up my exhaust? Engine is 350 with stock manifolds, single cat. Thanks for your help.
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Old 01-02-2004, 08:48 PM   #60
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there 3/8th's....
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Old 01-03-2004, 06:05 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally posted by anesthes
There is something wrong with your car. I'm guessing 02 not reading correctly.Whats your blms? If your running 10:1 afr, especially with a cat on there, you got some serious problems. get your car fixed and report back to us.

-- Joe
No cat on the car and since I have added headers and a new O2 sensor. I would love to scan my car but my laptop and car will not talk to each other I belive the serial port is shot because with a different software and the correct cable for it it still will not scan the wifes Grand Prix.


Traxion I just thought by the posts I had read that it would pull large amounts of fuel I guess I missunderstood.

And does anybody know anything about the egr code at 70 MPH because I have the same problem along with two other members of my car club and none of us can figure out why.
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Old 01-03-2004, 08:06 PM   #62
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after doing headers, no cats, new catback, new o2 sensor, new tune up first time on the highway my car was fine on the way back a long trip bam ses light on, sure enough code for egr (32)

i dont go on many long crusing trips so i dont really feel the need to fix it, buts it still sucks to see it come on.
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Old 01-04-2004, 10:05 PM   #63
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the only way to fix the SES light is with some electrical tape
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Old 01-05-2004, 07:35 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally posted by 91CamaroRS305
the only way to fix the SES light is with some electrical tape
Or make a 5 second change and burn a new PROM.

Tim
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Old 01-05-2004, 09:43 AM   #65
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Now there's an idea awsome stuff......

Here's your sign TRAXION ...........
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Old 01-05-2004, 10:10 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally posted by 91 GTA Ramair2
Now there's an idea awsome stuff......

Here's your sign TRAXION ...........
I'm stupid. I don't understand your comment?

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Old 01-05-2004, 10:23 AM   #67
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Why would you bother Burning a Chipjust to get rid of an SES Light???

Better performance i could see....

Engine sawp requiring new setting's i could see....

But an SES light....Pluse removing the AIR system shouldn't throw code any way......
I wasn't saying your stupid just that your idea was a bit x-streme
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:03 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally posted by 91 GTA Ramair2
Why would you bother Burning a Chipjust to get rid of an SES Light???

Better performance i could see....

Engine sawp requiring new setting's i could see....

But an SES light....Pluse removing the AIR system shouldn't throw code any way......
I wasn't saying your stupid just that your idea was a bit x-streme
If you read the whole post you'd see my reply was in relation to those guys with EGR codes ... which do happen. My idea is only extreme in the sense of buying chip stuff specifically for curing a code. However, once you start doing your own chips you realize how valuable it is and you will do more than just cure a code. I don't see how people spend thousands on performance parts yet won't spend $200 to program their own chip. My objective is simple. My goal is to get people started programming their own chips because it's not difficult ... and in the long run they will be much happier and have more power.

Tim
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:09 AM   #69
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ya i guess.....
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1987 GTA L-98 350 TPI.16.11@88.9mph
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:36 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally posted by 91 GTA Ramair2
ya i guess.....
http://ubb.mfba.org/ultimatebb.php?u...;f=17;t=002213

Tim
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:39 AM   #71
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That is also true.....

I spose if i previewed before i sposed it .....it would make more sence....

point taken.................

Anything else???
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1969-S/S AMX 390 Daul TBI.9.63@143mph
1991 GTA Ramair2 406 MPI.N/A with the 350TBI 14.86@95.78mph.
1987 GTA L-98 350 TPI.16.11@88.9mph
1952-1978 MD & HD Trucks JSM/M&R.
1980-1986 MD&HD Trucks Winter fleet JSM/M&R.
1966-1976 Military 6x6's coming soon.

Last edited by 91 GTA Ramair2; 01-05-2004 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 01-05-2004, 12:09 PM   #72
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Yes there is something else...

Hooked on Phonics worked for me. Let it work for you. Reading your messages gives me a headache and I'm sure everyone else here too. Please learn to spell and form a complete sentence.

Jeez, did kindergarten get out early today?
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Old 01-05-2004, 12:36 PM   #73
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Hooked on Phonics Good one I was waitting for that one Most comon reply from High school kid's.

Got to love High school kid's,get there DL buy a camaro or a Firebird or both and think they Know every thing.

Bill you got an 87 GN good stuff awsome car's ugly But fast.

There speed make's up for the lack of look's.

the 87 GNX's with there all black trim nice tinted window's and GTA/Formula wheels now them looked sweet.

Good luck on 10 second Car.
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1969-S/S AMX 390 Daul TBI.9.63@143mph
1991 GTA Ramair2 406 MPI.N/A with the 350TBI 14.86@95.78mph.
1987 GTA L-98 350 TPI.16.11@88.9mph
1952-1978 MD & HD Trucks JSM/M&R.
1980-1986 MD&HD Trucks Winter fleet JSM/M&R.
1966-1976 Military 6x6's coming soon.
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Old 01-05-2004, 12:46 PM   #74
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BTW Nice job on staying on topic ....:rockon:..:lala:
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1969-S/S AMX 390 Daul TBI.9.63@143mph
1991 GTA Ramair2 406 MPI.N/A with the 350TBI 14.86@95.78mph.
1987 GTA L-98 350 TPI.16.11@88.9mph
1952-1978 MD & HD Trucks JSM/M&R.
1980-1986 MD&HD Trucks Winter fleet JSM/M&R.
1966-1976 Military 6x6's coming soon.
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Old 01-05-2004, 12:56 PM   #75
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i think i solved our seemingly random sustained crusing problem...


i already had a new EGR, and that SEEMED to solve it for a lil while, but now its back..


i think whats happening is the EGR vacuum solenoid slowly cloggs up... it works, but it just flows less air....

so when you put a new EGR in, its more "efficent" at moving, and it works right for a lil while.. but once it breaks in, it has the same problem as before..... of course this only happens at a high speed cruise because the vacuum is just a lil lower then at a lower speed cruise... enough that the computer doesnt see what it expects....



anyhoo, thats my THEORY on it.... replacing the vac 'noid did fix my problem... $13 vs $35-$45 for a EGR.. worth a shot.... its right there so if that didnt fix it, you can swap back, and return it for the $13 for your EGR.
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Old 01-05-2004, 01:07 PM   #76
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Have you checked the vacume line's On my 87 Z-28 i had it had a colapsed Vac line.

The New EGR would work for a little while then it would act up so then I replaced the solenoid & EGR it still did it Turn's out a weak vacume line would slowly colapse in it's self.......

Check for oily mushy line's dryed stiff cracked line's........
I hope you the best of Luck Guy.........
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1969-S/S AMX 390 Daul TBI.9.63@143mph
1991 GTA Ramair2 406 MPI.N/A with the 350TBI 14.86@95.78mph.
1987 GTA L-98 350 TPI.16.11@88.9mph
1952-1978 MD & HD Trucks JSM/M&R.
1980-1986 MD&HD Trucks Winter fleet JSM/M&R.
1966-1976 Military 6x6's coming soon.
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Old 01-05-2004, 01:40 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally posted by MrDude_1
i think i solved our seemingly random sustained crusing problem...


i already had a new EGR, and that SEEMED to solve it for a lil while, but now its back..


i think whats happening is the EGR vacuum solenoid slowly cloggs up... it works, but it just flows less air....

so when you put a new EGR in, its more "efficent" at moving, and it works right for a lil while.. but once it breaks in, it has the same problem as before..... of course this only happens at a high speed cruise because the vacuum is just a lil lower then at a lower speed cruise... enough that the computer doesnt see what it expects....



anyhoo, thats my THEORY on it.... replacing the vac 'noid did fix my problem... $13 vs $35-$45 for a EGR.. worth a shot.... its right there so if that didnt fix it, you can swap back, and return it for the $13 for your EGR.
is there any place to buy a vacume solinoid other than the dealer?? I hate to deal with my local dealer they are just to damn dumb!
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Old 01-05-2004, 01:53 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally posted by Z dude
is there any place to buy a vacume solinoid other than the dealer?? I hate to deal with my local dealer they are just to damn dumb!
advance/kragen/checker is where i got mine... i think autozone has them too.....

it should be a regular parts store item... enough GM cars have them.
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:39 PM   #79
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CHECHER, WEAVER, NAPA , PICKAPART........
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1991 GTA Ramair2 406 MPI.N/A with the 350TBI 14.86@95.78mph.
1987 GTA L-98 350 TPI.16.11@88.9mph
1952-1978 MD & HD Trucks JSM/M&R.
1980-1986 MD&HD Trucks Winter fleet JSM/M&R.
1966-1976 Military 6x6's coming soon.
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Old 01-13-2004, 05:18 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRAXION
......I don't see how people spend thousands on performance parts yet won't spend $200 to program their own chip.....

Tim

That is VERY well put.....I didnt realize how easy it was to burn a chip to fix my lack of A.I.R and EGR valve until I dove in, bought the equipment and learned how to do it. It all seemed like Greek to me and alot of people....but once you dive in and learn how to do it, its very rewarding.....I couldnt agree with Tim more on that quote. What's the point in spending all that money on a hot motor, etc if the ECM still thinks its a dull TPI????
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Old 01-13-2004, 06:00 PM   #81
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Id like some more info on how and what has to be done to do it,
sounds like a good idea
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Old 03-10-2004, 12:24 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally posted by Larry Dunlap
Well it sure makes the engine compartment look better and gives easer access. Im going to do whatever I have to to leave the stuff off. Here is a picture after header installation.
Hey Larry,

I would like to deleted all the AIR garbage from my 88 IROC with a 305 TPI. I noticed you have headers with a AIR tubes, how did you plug them up. Also could you provide more pics of the passenger and driver side engine area.

Thanks,
Joey
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Old 03-18-2004, 02:34 PM   #83
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IMO, if its working fine, why take it out? Its not robbing any hp (well, maybe .01hp) and weighs next to nothing, and helps somewhat to keep the air cleaner.

I only took mine out because the old owner crimped and broke all the lines and somehow bent the pulley.. if it was working fine, it'd prolly still be there, even though i dont have to pass emitions tests.
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Old 04-06-2004, 10:15 AM   #84
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we removed the air pump, blocked off the egr hole and removed the cat. no problem man. the cat trick was cool, we pulled the cat, cut the flange and hanger end off, and welded a 21" section of pipe on to the flange. it looks great, and fits even better. if you didnt know there was a cat there in the first place you would think it was factory.
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Old 04-21-2004, 09:12 AM   #85
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with out the a.i.r system

well i read a few comments and i was wanting to take or remove my smog pump as well. It seems i would have to cut and plug my air tubing lines coming off my headers and all the hoses routing to the bac of the cat.there use to be a company that sold a replacement bracket that had only a pully in that spot so the belt would remain the same location.
well my comment was in reference to every one who was saying that the factory ecm would command the injectors to run leaner if the a.i.r pump was removed.. but how much of an effect would that have if you have already installed an inline regulator with the pressure already elevated above stock?

another comment I wanted to comment on is I have watched dino runs before and watched power jump or peak when a motor runs lean not detonation lean but modestly lean. but of coarse 14 to 1 being ideal but 13 to 1 in some cases power peaked. and I have seen some race motors lose power from running to rich as well.
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Old 04-21-2004, 09:24 AM   #86
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Well it looks a little cheesy but I just got some steel pipe caps. I think they were like 1/2" or 5/8" NPT. There is only three places to plug really, the two header AIR fittings and the one going to the CATS. I actually didn't plug the one going to the CATs for a while but in that case you are going to have a small exaust leak back into the engine compartment. It is not a show motor this way but it looks better to me than with the smog stuff. I guess you could get the pipe caps chromed

You can see the cap in the center of this pic. Can also see clearance on drive shaft of SLP headers (another big topic on this board)
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Old 04-21-2004, 09:27 AM   #87
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In this pic you can see the HEader AIR cap, and the cap on the line to the cats.
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Old 04-21-2004, 02:15 PM   #88
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tpi a.i.r.

Quote:
Originally posted by Larry Dunlap
In this pic you can see the HEader AIR cap, and the cap on the line to the cats.
hey Larry thanks a bunch for the pics your compartment looks really good considering the loose ends but you gave me a great idea the next time my motor comes out Im gonna get a plasma cutter and cut off the tubing right at the exhaust and at catalythic then weld them shut and then do a little sand job on them...it seems like that would really make the motor look cleaner..:lala:
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Old 04-21-2004, 02:27 PM   #89
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Well the line to the cats on my car is removable. It is held on by a clip then press fits into a metal line below leading to the cats. I could just remove the part that you see in the engine compartment, then cap it below with anything, since you cants see it anyway. As far as the AIR tubes on the SLP headers, you could remove them and weld them shut sure, of course I or you could have just bought them without AIR tubes in the first place. I left mine this way with the idea that in the worst case, I might have to put the AIR stuff back on to pass an inspection next year. I could then take it off again, its not that hard to do with just the caps there. I guess I will probably try to have it inspected as is, then do that if it fails.

Yeah it looks ok, I have since polished the superram plenum lid where the previous perosn had black paint down in the grooves. It looks pretty nice.

Your car looks awesome! Have you been to the Houston gatherings?
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Old 04-21-2004, 02:49 PM   #90
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houston gatherings

Quote:
Originally posted by Larry Dunlap
Well the line to the cats on my car is removable. It is held on by a clip then press fits into a metal line below leading to the cats. I could just remove the part that you see in the engine compartment, then cap it below with anything, since you cants see it anyway. As far as the AIR tubes on the SLP headers, you could remove them and weld them shut sure, of course I or you could have just bought them without AIR tubes in the first place. I left mine this way with the idea that in the worst case, I might have to put the AIR stuff back on to pass an inspection next year. I could then take it off again, its not that hard to do with just the caps there. I guess I will probably try to have it inspected as is, then do that if it fails.

Yeah it looks ok, I have since polished the superram plenum lid where the previous perosn had black paint down in the grooves. It looks pretty nice.

Your car looks awesome! Have you been to the Houston gatherings?
Thanks for the compliment Larry.
I used to go to the mixed car street meets on Kuykendahl road wich used to be every saturday night here in Houston. I need to be updated as to when and where you guys meet in Houston I would love to make it.. Its been a while..
Let me know
rob
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Old 07-02-2004, 12:43 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally posted by anesthes
Wrong.. The TPI system accounts for the air injection by adding 100mv to the o2 readings. So when you remove the air injection, but the computer still thinks its there you run 100mv LEANER. Obviously this kills performance.

You can modify this setting in the prom, or you can reconnect your air..

If anyone would like to chime in and tell me i'm wrong, I'll be glad to post the section of code from the bin where this happens.

-- Joe
Well that settles it for me then, My car runs rich and no one can figure out why, so i guess something in the computer is doing it. Can just unplugging the electrical connectors to the black box that attaches to the AIR pump disable it so i can drive it around and see how it changes it before i pull everything?
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Old 07-02-2004, 12:47 PM   #92
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Re: houston gatherings

Quote:
Originally posted by robsgta
Thanks for the compliment Larry.
I used to go to the mixed car street meets on Kuykendahl road wich used to be every saturday night here in Houston. I need to be updated as to when and where you guys meet in Houston I would love to make it.. Its been a while..
Let me know
rob
I'm not a big fan of the notch back, but that one looks bad@ss.
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Old 07-10-2004, 06:18 PM   #93
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Ok, so since this is a sticky on AIR removal, what is the right procedure to remove the whole thing? What gets taken off, I need a different belt right? I'd like to see some step by step instructions of how you guys did it.

-Dustin
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Old 07-13-2004, 12:39 AM   #94
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I would also like to know all of the steps and maybe get some pics of A.I.R. removal... thanks :hail:
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Old 08-03-2004, 10:20 AM   #95
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Ok, I read this entire thread twice just now, and once a while back... and I still have no idea what to do!

You say that removing the A.I.R. can make the car run leaner and loose performance? How exactly do you fix that? I have no idea how to program a chip... I just haven't the know-how!

I have a Hypertech Stage 2 chip (no I didn't buy it, it was in the car when I got it!) does that help/hurt the situation?

I don't want to remove the whole setup, but I would like the get the non-emissions headers.
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Old 08-03-2004, 11:00 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally posted by dwillms
Ok, so since this is a sticky on AIR removal, what is the right procedure to remove the whole thing? What gets taken off, I need a different belt right? I'd like to see some step by step instructions of how you guys did it.

-Dustin
Remove all of the following seen here.

AIR tubes (soak in PBblaster and use 1/4 or 3/8 npt brass plugs) or keep the AIR tubes on and just cap the main collector.
Diverter valve
Converter connection
Smog pump connection.



Next, unbolt the smog pump pulley
Remove Serpentine belt
Remove the top and bottom torx bits that hold the pump on
Remove pump



Front of pump without pulley[/url]



Rear of pump (not the connection to the diverter valve)
Put new belt on

Pic of what the area will look like with a new belt and pump removed.
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Old 08-11-2004, 10:15 AM   #97
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Yeah buddy get r dun........no emissions anywhere near me.....
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Old 08-11-2004, 10:16 AM   #98
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I had a photo of the original but I need to find it.....it really eliminated a ton of space for a bigger engine and headers..

Last edited by BIGJON; 08-11-2004 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 08-11-2004, 10:17 AM   #99
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Here is one with my AC delete heater box....
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Old 09-28-2004, 05:19 PM   #100
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this topic has been interesting but there is a few people out there i think still looking for an answer:

those like me who want performance, also need mpg, and want to pass emissions. Ive got a tbi with the rediculous AIR system and If I can remove with little downsides then Ill do it ASAP. Its a pain and also I am bout to buy new headers (which slp sells with or without AIR; the difference is ohhh...about $150) so you can see why It would be nice if someone could say "if you want to remove the air, do this and that. Also state if a new chip needs to be burned (how so) and if itll pass emissions.

My future proposed setup is slp 1 5/8 headers (without AIR and with Y-pipe hopefully) and slp catalyst connected to 3" flowmaster
thanks guys for all the response
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