ExhaustPost your questions and suggestions about stock or aftermarket exhaust setups. Third Gen exhaust sound files and videos!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
i wouldnt really disconnect the SES light either. my computer tells me to change my egr (or at least i am having a problem with it) while crusing around 70 mph for a period of time, i fixed it buy staying under 70
wouldnt really disconnect the SES light either. my computer tells me to change my egr (or at least i am having a problem with it) while crusing around 70 mph for a period of time, i fixed it buy staying under 70
That also helps avoid guys like me in crown vic's from being in your rear view mirror.
speeking of crown vics..... did anyone see Monster Garage
lastnight they built the race car line painter and they were tryin it out and a cop showed up and did a smoke show.. now thats a cop!
sorry bout getting off topic... I dunno maby I should just change my EGR but daaaamn big expense for nothing maby
thats some gas money
I plan on taking my AIR out, just wondering what size/thread bolts do I need to plug up my exhaust? Engine is 350 with stock manifolds, single cat. Thanks for your help.
Originally posted by anesthes There is something wrong with your car. I'm guessing 02 not reading correctly.Whats your blms? If your running 10:1 afr, especially with a cat on there, you got some serious problems. get your car fixed and report back to us.
-- Joe
No cat on the car and since I have added headers and a new O2 sensor. I would love to scan my car but my laptop and car will not talk to each other I belive the serial port is shot because with a different software and the correct cable for it it still will not scan the wifes Grand Prix.
Traxion I just thought by the posts I had read that it would pull large amounts of fuel I guess I missunderstood.
And does anybody know anything about the egr code at 70 MPH because I have the same problem along with two other members of my car club and none of us can figure out why.
after doing headers, no cats, new catback, new o2 sensor, new tune up first time on the highway my car was fine on the way back a long trip bam ses light on, sure enough code for egr (32)
i dont go on many long crusing trips so i dont really feel the need to fix it, buts it still sucks to see it come on.
Why would you bother Burning a Chipjust to get rid of an SES Light???
Better performance i could see....
Engine sawp requiring new setting's i could see....
But an SES light....Pluse removing the AIR system shouldn't throw code any way......
I wasn't saying your stupid just that your idea was a bit x-streme
__________________ 1969-S/S AMX 390 Daul TBI.9.63@143mph
1991 GTA Ramair2 406 MPI.N/A with the 350TBI 14.86@95.78mph.
1987 GTA L-98 350 TPI.16.11@88.9mph
1952-1978 MD & HD Trucks JSM/M&R.
1980-1986 MD&HD Trucks Winter fleet JSM/M&R.
1966-1976 Military 6x6's coming soon.
Originally posted by 91 GTA Ramair2 Why would you bother Burning a Chipjust to get rid of an SES Light???
Better performance i could see....
Engine sawp requiring new setting's i could see....
But an SES light....Pluse removing the AIR system shouldn't throw code any way......
I wasn't saying your stupid just that your idea was a bit x-streme
If you read the whole post you'd see my reply was in relation to those guys with EGR codes ... which do happen. My idea is only extreme in the sense of buying chip stuff specifically for curing a code. However, once you start doing your own chips you realize how valuable it is and you will do more than just cure a code. I don't see how people spend thousands on performance parts yet won't spend $200 to program their own chip. My objective is simple. My goal is to get people started programming their own chips because it's not difficult ... and in the long run they will be much happier and have more power.
Tim
__________________ 2005 Subaru STi, Got RlCE?
My old 11 second 1990 IROC-Z (sold to TGO Member 92 Formula)
Hooked on Phonics worked for me. Let it work for you. Reading your messages gives me a headache and I'm sure everyone else here too. Please learn to spell and form a complete sentence.
Jeez, did kindergarten get out early today?
__________________ Bill 1987 Buick Grand National Merritt Performance built 109, CPT62, 212/206 billet roller,
ported irons, Seimans 72#, RA Double Pumper, 65MM TB,
RJC power plate and pulleys, ATR headers, ATR single shot,
ATR DP, Pats 3200 L/U, and more...
i think i solved our seemingly random sustained crusing problem...
i already had a new EGR, and that SEEMED to solve it for a lil while, but now its back..
i think whats happening is the EGR vacuum solenoid slowly cloggs up... it works, but it just flows less air....
so when you put a new EGR in, its more "efficent" at moving, and it works right for a lil while.. but once it breaks in, it has the same problem as before..... of course this only happens at a high speed cruise because the vacuum is just a lil lower then at a lower speed cruise... enough that the computer doesnt see what it expects....
anyhoo, thats my THEORY on it.... replacing the vac 'noid did fix my problem... $13 vs $35-$45 for a EGR.. worth a shot.... its right there so if that didnt fix it, you can swap back, and return it for the $13 for your EGR.
Have you checked the vacume line's On my 87 Z-28 i had it had a colapsed Vac line.
The New EGR would work for a little while then it would act up so then I replaced the solenoid & EGR it still did it Turn's out a weak vacume line would slowly colapse in it's self.......
Check for oily mushy line's dryed stiff cracked line's........
I hope you the best of Luck Guy.........
__________________ 1969-S/S AMX 390 Daul TBI.9.63@143mph
1991 GTA Ramair2 406 MPI.N/A with the 350TBI 14.86@95.78mph.
1987 GTA L-98 350 TPI.16.11@88.9mph
1952-1978 MD & HD Trucks JSM/M&R.
1980-1986 MD&HD Trucks Winter fleet JSM/M&R.
1966-1976 Military 6x6's coming soon.
Originally posted by MrDude_1 i think i solved our seemingly random sustained crusing problem...
i already had a new EGR, and that SEEMED to solve it for a lil while, but now its back..
i think whats happening is the EGR vacuum solenoid slowly cloggs up... it works, but it just flows less air....
so when you put a new EGR in, its more "efficent" at moving, and it works right for a lil while.. but once it breaks in, it has the same problem as before..... of course this only happens at a high speed cruise because the vacuum is just a lil lower then at a lower speed cruise... enough that the computer doesnt see what it expects....
anyhoo, thats my THEORY on it.... replacing the vac 'noid did fix my problem... $13 vs $35-$45 for a EGR.. worth a shot.... its right there so if that didnt fix it, you can swap back, and return it for the $13 for your EGR.
is there any place to buy a vacume solinoid other than the dealer?? I hate to deal with my local dealer they are just to damn dumb!
Originally posted by Z dude is there any place to buy a vacume solinoid other than the dealer?? I hate to deal with my local dealer they are just to damn dumb!
advance/kragen/checker is where i got mine... i think autozone has them too.....
it should be a regular parts store item... enough GM cars have them.
Originally posted by TRAXION ......I don't see how people spend thousands on performance parts yet won't spend $200 to program their own chip.....
Tim
That is VERY well put.....I didnt realize how easy it was to burn a chip to fix my lack of A.I.R and EGR valve until I dove in, bought the equipment and learned how to do it. It all seemed like Greek to me and alot of people....but once you dive in and learn how to do it, its very rewarding.....I couldnt agree with Tim more on that quote. What's the point in spending all that money on a hot motor, etc if the ECM still thinks its a dull TPI????
Originally posted by Larry Dunlap Well it sure makes the engine compartment look better and gives easer access. Im going to do whatever I have to to leave the stuff off. Here is a picture after header installation.
Hey Larry,
I would like to deleted all the AIR garbage from my 88 IROC with a 305 TPI. I noticed you have headers with a AIR tubes, how did you plug them up. Also could you provide more pics of the passenger and driver side engine area.
IMO, if its working fine, why take it out? Its not robbing any hp (well, maybe .01hp) and weighs next to nothing, and helps somewhat to keep the air cleaner.
I only took mine out because the old owner crimped and broke all the lines and somehow bent the pulley.. if it was working fine, it'd prolly still be there, even though i dont have to pass emitions tests.
we removed the air pump, blocked off the egr hole and removed the cat. no problem man. the cat trick was cool, we pulled the cat, cut the flange and hanger end off, and welded a 21" section of pipe on to the flange. it looks great, and fits even better. if you didnt know there was a cat there in the first place you would think it was factory.
well i read a few comments and i was wanting to take or remove my smog pump as well. It seems i would have to cut and plug my air tubing lines coming off my headers and all the hoses routing to the bac of the cat.there use to be a company that sold a replacement bracket that had only a pully in that spot so the belt would remain the same location.
well my comment was in reference to every one who was saying that the factory ecm would command the injectors to run leaner if the a.i.r pump was removed.. but how much of an effect would that have if you have already installed an inline regulator with the pressure already elevated above stock?
another comment I wanted to comment on is I have watched dino runs before and watched power jump or peak when a motor runs lean not detonation lean but modestly lean. but of coarse 14 to 1 being ideal but 13 to 1 in some cases power peaked. and I have seen some race motors lose power from running to rich as well.
Well it looks a little cheesy but I just got some steel pipe caps. I think they were like 1/2" or 5/8" NPT. There is only three places to plug really, the two header AIR fittings and the one going to the CATS. I actually didn't plug the one going to the CATs for a while but in that case you are going to have a small exaust leak back into the engine compartment. It is not a show motor this way but it looks better to me than with the smog stuff. I guess you could get the pipe caps chromed
You can see the cap in the center of this pic. Can also see clearance on drive shaft of SLP headers (another big topic on this board)
Originally posted by Larry Dunlap In this pic you can see the HEader AIR cap, and the cap on the line to the cats.
hey Larry thanks a bunch for the pics your compartment looks really good considering the loose ends but you gave me a great idea the next time my motor comes out Im gonna get a plasma cutter and cut off the tubing right at the exhaust and at catalythic then weld them shut and then do a little sand job on them...it seems like that would really make the motor look cleaner..:lala:
the projects never end !!!
Well the line to the cats on my car is removable. It is held on by a clip then press fits into a metal line below leading to the cats. I could just remove the part that you see in the engine compartment, then cap it below with anything, since you cants see it anyway. As far as the AIR tubes on the SLP headers, you could remove them and weld them shut sure, of course I or you could have just bought them without AIR tubes in the first place. I left mine this way with the idea that in the worst case, I might have to put the AIR stuff back on to pass an inspection next year. I could then take it off again, its not that hard to do with just the caps there. I guess I will probably try to have it inspected as is, then do that if it fails.
Yeah it looks ok, I have since polished the superram plenum lid where the previous perosn had black paint down in the grooves. It looks pretty nice.
Your car looks awesome! Have you been to the Houston gatherings?
Originally posted by Larry Dunlap Well the line to the cats on my car is removable. It is held on by a clip then press fits into a metal line below leading to the cats. I could just remove the part that you see in the engine compartment, then cap it below with anything, since you cants see it anyway. As far as the AIR tubes on the SLP headers, you could remove them and weld them shut sure, of course I or you could have just bought them without AIR tubes in the first place. I left mine this way with the idea that in the worst case, I might have to put the AIR stuff back on to pass an inspection next year. I could then take it off again, its not that hard to do with just the caps there. I guess I will probably try to have it inspected as is, then do that if it fails.
Yeah it looks ok, I have since polished the superram plenum lid where the previous perosn had black paint down in the grooves. It looks pretty nice.
Your car looks awesome! Have you been to the Houston gatherings?
Thanks for the compliment Larry.
I used to go to the mixed car street meets on Kuykendahl road wich used to be every saturday night here in Houston. I need to be updated as to when and where you guys meet in Houston I would love to make it.. Its been a while..
Let me know
rob
Originally posted by anesthes Wrong.. The TPI system accounts for the air injection by adding 100mv to the o2 readings. So when you remove the air injection, but the computer still thinks its there you run 100mv LEANER. Obviously this kills performance.
You can modify this setting in the prom, or you can reconnect your air..
If anyone would like to chime in and tell me i'm wrong, I'll be glad to post the section of code from the bin where this happens.
-- Joe
Well that settles it for me then, My car runs rich and no one can figure out why, so i guess something in the computer is doing it. Can just unplugging the electrical connectors to the black box that attaches to the AIR pump disable it so i can drive it around and see how it changes it before i pull everything?
Originally posted by robsgta Thanks for the compliment Larry.
I used to go to the mixed car street meets on Kuykendahl road wich used to be every saturday night here in Houston. I need to be updated as to when and where you guys meet in Houston I would love to make it.. Its been a while..
Let me know
rob
I'm not a big fan of the notch back, but that one looks bad@ss.
Ok, so since this is a sticky on AIR removal, what is the right procedure to remove the whole thing? What gets taken off, I need a different belt right? I'd like to see some step by step instructions of how you guys did it.
Ok, I read this entire thread twice just now, and once a while back... and I still have no idea what to do!
You say that removing the A.I.R. can make the car run leaner and loose performance? How exactly do you fix that? I have no idea how to program a chip... I just haven't the know-how!
I have a Hypertech Stage 2 chip (no I didn't buy it, it was in the car when I got it!) does that help/hurt the situation?
I don't want to remove the whole setup, but I would like the get the non-emissions headers.
__________________ 89 MR2 - Car is ready for shows
88 Dodge Ram D100 - V6 2wd, putting body on a 84 D250 V8 frame with a 440ci
Originally posted by dwillms Ok, so since this is a sticky on AIR removal, what is the right procedure to remove the whole thing? What gets taken off, I need a different belt right? I'd like to see some step by step instructions of how you guys did it.
-Dustin
Remove all of the following seen here.
AIR tubes (soak in PBblaster and use 1/4 or 3/8 npt brass plugs) or keep the AIR tubes on and just cap the main collector.
Diverter valve
Converter connection
Smog pump connection.
Next, unbolt the smog pump pulley
Remove Serpentine belt
Remove the top and bottom torx bits that hold the pump on
Remove pump
Front of pump without pulley[/url]
Rear of pump (not the connection to the diverter valve)
Put new belt on
Pic of what the area will look like with a new belt and pump removed.
Last edited by ShiftyCapone; 08-03-2004 at 11:03 AM.
this topic has been interesting but there is a few people out there i think still looking for an answer:
those like me who want performance, also need mpg, and want to pass emissions. Ive got a tbi with the rediculous AIR system and If I can remove with little downsides then Ill do it ASAP. Its a pain and also I am bout to buy new headers (which slp sells with or without AIR; the difference is ohhh...about $150) so you can see why It would be nice if someone could say "if you want to remove the air, do this and that. Also state if a new chip needs to be burned (how so) and if itll pass emissions.
My future proposed setup is slp 1 5/8 headers (without AIR and with Y-pipe hopefully) and slp catalyst connected to 3" flowmaster
thanks guys for all the response
they built the race car line painter and they were tryin it out and a cop showed up and did a smoke show.. now thats a cop!
.......
