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The Hooker 2055's with the AIR tubes come with a better y-pipe. The 2460's dont come with a y-pipe and the recommended y-pipe is worse than the one for the 2055's.
Get the 2055's and keep your car smog legal.
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Wrong.. The TPI system accounts for the air injection by adding 100mv to the o2 readings. So when you remove the air injection, but the computer still thinks its there you run 100mv LEANER. Obviously this kills performance.
You can modify this setting in the prom, or you can reconnect your air..
If anyone would like to chime in and tell me i'm wrong, I'll be glad to post the section of code from the bin where this happens.
-- Joe
Just curious why you say running leaner would kill performance. Most of my NA C5s I always had tuned with H&C, Headers, and CAI were tuned to 12.9-13.1 AFR..with stoich at 14.7. Cars made over 400 whp easy. Or are you stating that it is so much leaner that it is resulting in engine knock and as a result retarding the timing..therefore killing performance. If it is leaner and doesn't knock (or ping) then the car is going to make more power.
i have a tbi and i want to remove the air and the air conditioning pump, so if i changed my whole ecm out to a ecm from a 305 pickup truck with no emissions gear, wouldn't that eliminate the lean air/fuel mixture???
in theroy shouldn't the "emissionless" (a new word:O!) computer compensate for that missing information? or am i totally off my rocker??
A.I.R. means Air Injection Reactor, and its the scientific name for the emissions-control system that takes in regular air thru the air pump (part of the accessories on the front of the engine) and distributes that air to either the catalytic converter, or the exhaust manifolds, thru a couple valves that are controlled by the computer. The extra air serves to turn the carbon monoxide in the exhaust into carbon dioxide.
On my 305 TPI with a ZZ4 cam, slightly better heads, headman shorties, catco cat, no air and no EGR passed NJ inspection but my car was also retuned after all that work was done. Only thing that wasnt well below levels was NOx, which was right at standard. Ill have to look at the last time I had it inspected, see what it did...
A.I.R. means Air Injection Reactor, and its the scientific name for the emissions-control system that takes in regular air thru the air pump (part of the accessories on the front of the engine) and distributes that air to either the catalytic converter, or the exhaust manifolds, thru a couple valves that are controlled by the computer. The extra air serves to turn the carbon monoxide in the exhaust into carbon dioxide. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_injection_reactor
Hey Kevin,
I eliminated the AIR. How would I route the hoses taking in consideration having a Paxton SC? Can you provide a diagram? Also do I need to flash my ecu?
So, when I did the 305 to 350 swap the donor motor (92 caprice 9C1) has a.i.r. going to the passenger side manifold only and not to the cat(s). This was the factory setup on that car. The 02 sensor is in the drivers side manifold where no air is injected. I also swapped the ecm. I originally left the air hooked up to the cat and passenger manifold. Now I am installing hedman shorties with no air hookups. Should I leave the airpump and run air to the cat still? -or- Should I replace the cat with a high flow cat with out air and remove the air pump all together?
BTW I spent an hour reading all 5 pages of this topic without finding an answer. Thanks....
Since you did an engine swap from another type of car, you need to keep the emissions parts for the new engine. That means you need to get headers with AIR tubes and hook it up. Or install AIR tubes on your Hedman pipes on the passenger side. That's the legal way.
just a real quick question, if i were to remove the A.I.R system on my 87 LB9 IROC and have a fuel pressure regulator on it, or have my ECM reflashed then wouldnt i be fine. I live in kentucky and we dont have SMOG or nething. Just decibels and yur dun.
I dont understand your question. What do the fuel pressure regulator and the ECM have to do with removing your AIR tubes? Nothing that I know of.
The truth is you can remove your AIR pump and AIR lines with no problems to the computer. However its completely illegal to do so in the eyes of the law. If you can live with dirty air, go ahead, but the person behind you might not.
I dont understand your question. What do the fuel pressure regulator and the ECM have to do with removing your AIR tubes? Nothing that I know of.
The truth is you can remove your AIR pump and AIR lines with no problems to the computer. However its completely illegal to do so in the eyes of the law. If you can live with dirty air, go ahead, but the person behind you might not.
Another option is removing the air and running a better newer cat.
On my last dyno run with true duals I had the cats off and the emissions levels were actually lower than most stock L98s. odd eh.
maybe this was already said, but i still have stock exhaust manifolds , could i completely take it off with the A.I.R crap, and just bolt on some shiny new headers? and not worry about anything?
Yes it was already said, you need to reread the thread. If your remove the AIR tubes you need to worry about the smog police, as its illegal to do so in all 50 states on a street car by federal law.
Yes it was already said, you need to reread the thread. If your remove the AIR tubes you need to worry about the smog police, as its illegal to do so in all 50 states on a street car by federal law.
I see, but i live in canada so its all good, so engine performance wise, it wont affect driveablility? thanks
On my 89 305, I've got the air tubes, smog pump, and cat removed. Though, I still have the EGR. Would having the EGR still there cause any problems? Should I go ahead and block it off, or just leave it?
I tried doing a/c delete but i took out the fan on the left and all the screws and under the dash but the black original a/c housing STILL won't come off i yank and pull and cant see any other bolts.
Havent driven my car since i did this yesterday so can i drive the car fine with the fan on the left out? looks like a big hole, is that safe?
I tried doing a/c delete but i took out the fan on the left and all the screws and under the dash but the black original a/c housing STILL won't come off i yank and pull and cant see any other bolts. Havent driven my car since i did this yesterday so can i drive the car fine with the fan on the left out? looks like a big hole, is that safe?
.... the bolts are there, gotta pull the carpet up on the passenger side, inside. You can drive around w/absolutely zero problems, unless you have an exhaust leak somewhere, in which case keep the windows open until you correct everything. Do you have the delete box ready to install, and do you know how to wire it all up to maintain all four speeds of the blower fan?
On my 89 305, I've got the air tubes, smog pump, and cat removed. Though, I still have the EGR. Would having the EGR still there cause any problems? Should I go ahead and block it off, or just leave it?
You'll have more problems with the smog police, because your car is illegal to drive on the street with those parts removed.
If you block off or remove the EGR, you will get an SES light for Code 32 most of the time. The EGR doesnt open at WOT, so it will not affect your power. It opens while you're cruising on the highway to cool down the combustion chambers and give you better gas mileage.
You'll have more problems with the smog police, because your car is illegal to drive on the street with those parts removed.
If you block off or remove the EGR, you will get an SES light for Code 32 most of the time. The EGR doesnt open at WOT, so it will not affect your power. It opens while you're cruising on the highway to cool down the combustion chambers and give you better gas mileage.
It's been like that for over 5 years. I just didn't know if the EGR needed the other smog stuff to work right. But I'm guessing it doesn't matter. So, I'll leave the EGR alone. Though, I do get a code 32 sometimes when I'm on the highway.
What i was saying in my question is with the whole running lean thing, thats all im worried about. The AIR is off my car and i dont want it to run lean, so i thought a good fix would be just to buy a fuel pressure regulator, and i know now that the AIR is transparent to the ECM so nevermind that.
__________________
R.I.P The EcoDYME
"It's not the tires squealing, its the asphault SCREAMING!!"
I am putting in new headers and removed the AIR, however there is one hose left , the one that goes into the engine. Should I plug it, or can I just put a filter on it and leave it be?
Thanks!
The one that goes into the engine? Is that from the valve cover to the intake manifold? That's the PCV and its better to leave it hooked up the way the factory had it. Breathers are for race cars that use air pumps to suck out the air in the crank case.
So just to get this clear with everything that was said... all I gotta do is yank the air pump, the switch valve, and plug all the tubes? My car doesn't have a serpentine it has seperate belts so I can just snip the belt and call it good. I wanna yank that bad boy out to make some space.
and that's not much. My Z tested as clean as ever. (the new cats probably didn't hurt). Ditch the dead weight, but only if your state doesn't do a visual inspection.
I WANT TO DITCH MINE WANT TO KNOW WHAT SIZE SHORT BELT I NEED AND IS THERE CLEARANCE FOR THE BELTS LOOKS LIKE IT WILL BE CLOSE I STILL HAVE AC.THE IDLER MUST GIVE YOU A LITTLE I GUESS BUT JUST LOOKING AT IT NOT SURE. ALSO WANT TO CLEAN UP THE HEATER HOSES N THAT VACUMN SWITCH HAS ANYBODY DONE THAT N PICS OR SUGGESTIONS. THANKS sorry caps
The EcoDYME
