I want to use Hooker 2055 headers and stay emissions legal. I know I need the catalytic convertor on my car. The engine is a 1986 LG4. Is the A.I.R. system necessary, it sounds like the 2055 drivers side air fittings don't fit on my engine. Do I need to keep them? What is the EFE valve and do i really need it? If I don't is it easy to remove?

It is my understanding that the A.I.R. system simply adds oxygen (fresh air) to the catalytic, ot the exhaust before the catalytic, to heat the cat up faster to get it to operating temp. Therefore, if you have emissions testing, it shouldnt make a difference because the cat will be hot by the time you drive to the test site anyway.

I believe that is its only function, but you may want to verify that.

Thanks. From what I've found the EFE valve looks like it can just be thrown out.

A.I.R. supplies extra air for the extra oxygen it contains, to aid in the reactions that can take place in the exhaust system that can be beneficial in the reduction of noxious emissions. When the system is in open loop operation (engine cold), A.I.R. is routed to the manifolds to aid in the reaction of unburnt hydrocarbons. It is most effective at the manifolds because the exhaust is hotter there than it will be anywhere else in the exhaust system, and heat aids the completion of those reactions. Warming up the cat is a side benefit (if it even does at all).

In closed loop operation, the A.I.R. cannot be routed to the mainfolds (generally speaking) because it will mess with the readings obtained from the O2 sensor. By then, it is more beneficial being routed to the cat, where the extra available oxygen will aid in the reduction of CO to CO2. Not having it can be reason for higher sniffer emissions, and you may fail without it while passing with it.

EFE is a cold operation valve only. It won't reduce tailpipe emissions in the typical emissions sniffer test. However, if you have visual inspection, you could be failed for not having it - I wasn't, the only place I've heard of that happening is in California.

As for the A.I.R. fitting on the driver's side facing the wrong way, you can do one of 3 things about that: 1) Cut the tubes off at the primaries, turn the fitting/tubes assembly around, weld them back on (I seriously considered that, came up with a way to accomplish it, then went through my last required emissions test/inspection before doing anything about it); 2) Reroute the fitting using elbows and pipe nipple so it points to the front (I did do that in 2003); or 3) If you don't have underhood visual inspection, just eliminate the part that goes to the manifolds and only run the part that goes to the cat - I don't know of anyone who has done that.