Well im just waiting on my headers to come in and I decided it would be better just to have a shop install my exhaust [headers, Y pipe, high flow cat, cat back] since it has to be welded and I cant weld. At the recommendation of one of my friends I contacted b&t motor sports in Lorton, VA. They said headers would be 340$, cat would be 85$, and the rest plus welding would be about 250$. So it looks like around 700$ for the whole thing. Is that about right? If any of you guys dont live super far away and would do it for a lot less and still do a good job I dont mind driving.

$340 to install the headers? Or, parts and install?

Most likely they are quoting stock replacement parts. $700 partial parts & labor (I'm assuming) is a lot of money to spend just to leave performance on the table (or counter, in this case).

What headers do you have coming in?

340$ just for the install

The headers are Hooker 2460-2
Jegs # 520-2460-2

The cost I told you is just for the labor. I already have the parts, and I told them that, so its just the labor.

damn thats insane costs


LT headers are about 150

S curve extensions about 30 bucks

straight pipes and cheap mufflers all less than 100

done

like mw66nova did

i cant believe some ppl spend over 200 for headers


crazy!

my $ is worth alot more ot me

it doesnt grow on trees

must be nice that it does for you haha


good luck

Naw, it doesent grow on trees for me! lol

I just work and I sold my old car a few months ago [2001 Grand Am, got 4,000$ for that] So im spending whats left of my savings on my new car! yay

But yeh, already got all the parts in, except headers, which are on the way.

I just need to figure out a way to get it installed for a none insane price. I paid like 1100$ for the whole exhaust... and I dont want to spend more then half the amount I paid for the parts.... just to get it installed, hah hah.

Nothing has to be welded in. The cat can go in by cutting the y-pipe straight piece that eliminates the cat (assuming you're talking about the 16767HKR y-pipe). It should all bolt or clamp in.

$700 labor for $1100 worth of parts is actually pretty good (labor often exceeds the price of parts these days - those stainless 2460's skew the equation slightly). But, unless you have more money than time, you should install it all yourself. If you have to, pay the $85 to have the cat installed.

I would install it myself, but working with the crap knowledge i posses, lol. So I could just put it all on and have the weld the cat on? is that what you are saying? Nothing else has to be welded? Does the Muffler have to be welded together? Or do I just like stick the pipes in it?

I just dont wanna screw it up if I do it myself.

Post all of the specific part numbers you have coming in, and we'd be able to give you a more accurate answer.

Most likely, though, it could be clamped together. Many members have installed the parts, then driven to an exhaust shop and have them weld it up. That will still cost you a few hundred, most likely, though.

Do you have a garage to work in? Floor jack and jack stands and/or ramps? Basic hand tools? Hack saw or Sawzall?

I think I might just do the Headers, because thats whats is going to be most expensive. Would I be fine driving it to the Shop with just the headers? Ill just leave the rest of the exhaust on their and have them do the rest and take it out.

heres all the stuff i got-

Summit Racing-
HOK-16823HKR
BOR-18300
CTO-9118

Jegs-
520-16767
130-70239
520-2460-2

The y-pipe will have to be modified for the CTO-9118. If the shop knew that when they quoted $85, you've got yourself a deal (presuming they completely eliminate any 2-1/2" pipe after the two sides come together). You could remove the stock exhaust manifolds, y-pipe, & cat, and install the headers & y-pipe connecting that to your stock exhaust for the trip to the shop.

I've never heard good things about the B&M shift kits for TH700, but that's a transmission forum topic.

The shifter was kinda a quick buy, guess not such a good one, hah hah.

Does the Y pipe get welded to the headers? Or is it just held on with those little bolts? Also, whats the best way to take the old headers out of the car?

And thanks for all the help, I dont know much about cars, but im learning! slowly, hah.

The shop dident know exactly what parts I had, but i emailed them back with all the item numbers, so they will hopefully give me a more accurate estimate.

Timothayyy, your question about whether it`s fine to drive the car to the Shop with open headers depends entirely on the cop that stops you. I`ve done it for years and never had a problem but then again no cops saw me. I would guess the ticket would be expensive. Shut the engine off at stop lights and don`t fire it up until the light turns green or it`s your turn to go. The last time I did that a cop pulled up right next to me and when the light turned green, I waited, he waited and I finally popped the hood and told him it stalled, would he help me push it to the curb? Dodged a ticket.

Guess ill just run it with open headers, hah hah. Ill bring my mom, shes old, if we get pulled over she can do all the talking. And i mean were driving it to the shop, should be fine, hah hah.

But as far as everything else I said, was i correct? And how do I take the old headers out? Do I need to jack the engine out?

The y-pipe is bolted to the header collectors.

good luck with your decision man. But remember everyone has to start somewhere.. and when you mess up, i like to brand it a "learning experience"

Alright, thanks for helping me five7, if i run into any troubles ill be sure to ask you.

And yeh it can be a learning experience.... but sometimes it can be a very expensive one.

very true and to tell your the truth the first one normally is

Yikes, well im definitely going to take this one.... VERY SLOW. And you will prolly see me on here asking some stupid question just to avoid messing up, hah hah.

"no such thing as stupid questions" but good luck man