Ok, I want to know what I am missing in this plan. If I notch my tranny cross member, install long tubes, then I can just go right from the headers down the tranny tunnel, then dump right before the rear axle. Would anything else get in the way too badly?

I plan on doing this when I get my T56 in... using a skulte cross member for LT's... and just running it down the 'shaft tunnel.

Unfortunately, the system I have now is quite good, but hopefully running a 3.5 inch single wont hurt me too bad, and it'd be worth it to get some ground clearance back at teh end of the day I think.

The torque arm.

i did just that, even tho my engine isn't in,, i used round 1/4 inch thick pipe cut in half for the notches in the crossmember, dual straight 2 1/2 inch pipe with a 3'' crossover, a mount to the torque arm bolts and 12 doller flowtech mufflers.. i also used the old exhaust bends for turndowns
the only bends will be from about the crosssmember to the headers. (headman LTs)

ill get some pics up today for ya,,,,i plan on bbq' painting the exhaust for heat retention, stealth look and a**hole cops!

the stock torque arm didnt bother me at all,, just make sure to relocate fuel lines up a bit more

So did you mount the torque arm to the tranny cross member? Do you still use a rubber bushing between?

Pics would be awesome, thanks!

these 3 should show you whats up

the first 2 show the awsome "notches" in the crossmember, (yes its a t5 tranny) and how easy it make the exhaust after that (no bends needed)

the other shows how i have a lot of torque arm clearance. the muffler bodies are 3.5'' by the way.

the total of the exhaust cost me $40, and now all i have to do is wait for the engine, so i can mount the headers,, and fab up little s bends to my H setup

this was extremly easy to make,, and i don't know why everyone bitches about it. just do a nice notch on the crossmember, make sure its strong.

its a different story if your using sphon x members and torque arms tho

exhaust 003.jpg
exhaust 005.jpg
exhaust 004.jpg

perhaps ill get onto the true dual website/board if the moderator is nice enough !

note the tiny fuzz box in the backround in the pictures that i got for a 6 pack of beer

heres some more for ya

exhaust 007.jpg
exhaust 006.jpg
exhaust 010.jpg

ill get ground clearnace ones some once the paint dries,i do my 2/0 battery cable relocation deal and i lower the back down

so did you need any kind of bend at all, or is that from the header right back?

this setup will bring it about 1 foot away from header collectors, then ill make little s bends to go to the H and thatll be the hardest part,, but still really easy.

people are just intimidated by dual exhaust or just plain old babies,
you can easilly accomplish this without a welder, ive seen people just trim the crossmember,, i went a little over the norm for better results.
im sure a welding shop would do it for you for like 50 bux and a few brewskies

headers were only $120 and come with gaskets reducers, bolts, 1 5/8'' primaries and 3'' collector

And instead of custom fabbing something, I can just use these, right?



Now I want to dump right before the rear axle, but still out the sides, will that be difficult?

they will be quite close,, im thinking of trying them being that they are only like 20- 30 bux

side pipes are doable, but id rather just do turndowns pointed out kind of sideways, because sidepipes will really limit ground clearance even with oval tubing.

check out the dual exhaust picture page at the top of this board for other peoples true dual setups and you'll see what i meen

what you want can certainly be done. I cut my spohn xmember up and redid it. You can do the same thing with teh OEM piece. Here's mine. I ran hooker S extensions and glass packs for a bit, then I switched over to a mufflex y-pipe and single 4" all the way back.

Do you have a picture of the reworked Spohn transmission cross member?

wow!!!! And I thought mine was nice. Those are both nice looking setups. I'm not a glasspack guy though. I have a thing for my 40 series flowmasters. Mine are on the true duals thread if you want to see mine.

they are bassically just straight pipes,, im switching to morroso spiral flows or some nice spintechs in a few months after i get her run'in,, hopfully ill throw them over the axel out the back 78 ish twin dump tip style

Here is what I did to get room for exhaust. A bit of a read but lots of pictures and good info.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/su...-wont-fit.html (what SFC's wont fit longtubes?) (what SFC's wont fit longtubes?) (what SFC's wont fit longtubes?)

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ex...html?highlight (My exhaust picture) (My exhaust picture) (My exhaust picture)=

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/fa...html?highlight (1982 Z28 Silver State project) (1982 Z28 Silver State project) (1982 Z28 Silver State project)=

PM me with any questions.

Brett

i am looking to buy long tubes for my car but summit is saying that they wont fit with a t-5. do you know why this is? they are the headman ceramic coated.

because that one hits the slave cylinder.

As said above, the setup can work with a little work. I have Doug's long tubes (Hooker 2210 copies) and a skulte crossmember with my T56. With everything mocked up (not finished with the t56 swap quite yet), I can install the unmodified hedman s bends (pictured above) and they end perfectly even with the rear side of the tranny crossmember. They don't fit quite perfectly, but with some minor work they will do awesome. After that I will need to find some sort of smaller s bend setup to go from there to my merge collector. All in all, the setup should be very easy to make and offer decently good ground clearance.

how did you get the lt's to clear your slave?

Since mine is a T56, I have a different slave design than the T5 has. It clears but not with a ton of room to spare...

that is the exact same idea i had, finally i can see what it looks like, great job by the way!!