Hey i have an 87 trans am 350 TPI. The intake system i have on it right now is hitting my smog canister thing. What can be done to remove it. And what performance or fuel mileage will it hurt. We don't have emissions here so i dont need it right?

Need a better description or picture of what you're talking about.

its on the passenger side of my t/a its black and has hoses and stuff connected to it. http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tp...-question.html (air intake question) its the very bottom of the page the third pic by me.
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http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/at...estion-004.jpg here it is exactly

Vapor canister, aka charcoal canister. Vents the fuel tank and collects the vapors for reburning.

Not a good thing to remove. You'll get fuel vapors in your engine compartment, or you'll have to use a vented gas cap.

Try moving it a little so it's out of the way.

All 50 states in the United States have emissions requirements, even if they dont test for them. You need everything with which your car rolled off the assembly line. Just move the canister over out of the way. It provides a needed benefit.

Thanks a lot I'm glad i didn't just remove it. Oh is there any way to reroute the lines and wires to place it somewhere else? Like maybe under the metal where it is at like whit some brackets and stuff. Cause i want to move the air filter farther down and into the fender hole and that canister is in the way.

You apparently do not know anything. Emissions do not mean **** unless you're in California. My '84 Berly has got intake, cam, HEI, headers, alternator, and power steering. No smog pump, no AC, noe charcoal canister, no NOTHING! Do you realize how much horsepower all of that **** robs from you? My car made 150hp from the factory in 1984 because of all that bullshit! I say take the damn thing off, buy a smog pump delete pulley from GM and build the mother ****er!

KEEP IT. If you're running TPI, which you said you are, it is part of your vacuum system. I eliminated all emissions, even the cat, on my car but the cannister is the one thing you need. You have about two or three vacuum lines that run through that and if you disconnect them, your vacuum system will be screwed.

thx guys i am taking the cat of for sure and i plan on putting a rear mount turbo on it. but all that emmision stuff WILL and IS gonna come off when i get time too. I plan on doing headers and all that for my hopefully soon turbo setup.

You sure are grossly misinformed. Emissions devices are a FEDERAL requirement for street cars in ALL 50 STATES. Not all states have emissions tests, but you're still required by federal law to keep the devices on there. Some states have even adopted CA's smog check program, and believe me, other states are going to do emissions tests, too.

Yes, I absolutely know how much power the emissions devices "rob from you" about 5 in total, if you replace the stock restrictive cat with an aftermarket "high-flow" cat. The air pump is nothing but a free-spinning pulley, 1-2 HP at the most.
So how built is your engine? Can you beat my power level, timeslip, get 25+ miles per gallon, and pass CA's emissions test like I can? If not, you dont have jack-crap!

Berlinetta30584, understand you're newly registered here, but you'd better have some idea who you're talking to/about before you open your mouth.

The good news is your mouth would appear to be big enough to handle the foot you just put in it. . .

Thanks you two but still should i just remove the cat and run straight pipe for the turbo to make more flow? And yes i probably will keep everything that is there there, and only remove it if its absolutely has to be removed in order for the turbo intake to be in there.

That was a good one I think that will make guys think about what they are going to say before they open their mouth.

I did too but i don't wanna get in bad with ANY BODY on this forum. I need all the help i can get.

note to self...

when it comes to emmissions kevin and 5-7 know their shite. also.they are very knowledgable on countless other things too. not to mention they are right and u are just plum wrong. besides the orig poster is talking about the charcole canister,wich is a must have on all cars,but especiallly on early fuel infected motors. but on a track only car anything goes.

oh and don't worry about the foot in mouth thing, kevin and 5-7 had me put both my feet and hands in mouth. and now i have this really bad druelling problem.

Thanks guys all im really doing to the car now is looking for the right size turbo for the 350 TPI that i have. I am working alot to figure it out, and since it will be rear mounted i won't have/remove any of the emmisions or anything at all from under the hood. If you know anything bout turbos on these cars look for my post on poweradder and try to help me if you can.

i hope u are planning on forging out the motor. or else u will be limmited on how much boost u can run. and don't forget the rest of the drive train.

The most boost i plan to run is 6 maybe seven at MAX!!

then u will be fine. just to be safe i would run a 1 or 2 core intercooler. air to air would be a good choice.imo.

From what iv'e read with a rear mount, you don't have to run an intercooler cause of the length of the intake. It drops the temp by 100 degrees. And only looses on a full size truck barely even a lb of boost.

ok.thats cool. i've heard about these under mount turbos. do u have a link. i bet they are still pricey.

http://www.ststurbo.com/ is the rear end turbo people. They dont have a thirdgen kit but perhaps they have something universal that will fit.

Even with 6-7 lbs you're still risking your stock engine. The cast crank and pistons are good for only about 450 HP with no boost. Probably 400 HP with boost.

For more turbo questions you'll want to ask the good people in the Power Adder forum.

true. i personnally wouldn't boost a 305,but with it being a low compression motor he will prolly be ok for a while.

Its not a 305? It is the L98 350 TPI.

better yet.
my bad yo.

So will that much boost be bad for it?

well no. u should be allright. usually any motor with less than 9.5:1c is good for 6lbs of boost w/o intercooler. this is with a non- forged motor. ideal set-up is 8.5:1 w/forged internals. that would allow u to run high boost that is intercooled. anywhere from 9 -20lbs. but ifi remeber correctly anything more than 14 or 15 lbs,will not be street legal as far as emissions. i could be off with this under-the-car system though. but these are the basic parameters.

Thanks that is good to know. I am wanting to get a turbo and start working on this soon.

i looked up those turbos. its a nice system,but the price should be cheaper then an under hood unit imo. i would mind having one,but i will have to wait til i get all the shite done first. that would be my last mod after i'm done restoring her. but it is sweet.good luck.

i just pulled it out then cut my lines off and pinched em. i removed all the smog, egr, air pump, pvc, cat. stuff only slows you down/looks ugly. ps federal law can kiss my ***

i have a 1990 rs with a 305 tbi, and am having a complete exhaust put in from headers back. the guy doing it said that i needed to remove the air pump. is that true and is that going to do anything to the performance of the car???

just so u know removing any emission legal components is a Federal issue not just a state issue. and is usually followed by a 10k fine. and in some cases more. it all depends.

why would u have to remove the air pump. are u installing long tubes or shorties with air tubes on them. if it is long tubes then yes. air pump can be removed or disconnected. it doesn't matter unless clearences for the long tubes must be made.

to answer ur ?.no the air pump will not hurt the performance or operations of ur car. the air pump will free up weight on the front end and thats about it. the h/p increase from not having an air pump isn't worth removing it by itself b/c there almost isn't any increase.

the only reason why most who know remove the air pump is to make the engine compartment cleaner looking. it will not affect emissions either. it will however affect inspection if ur state does underhood inspections and does not see an air pump, they will fail u and possibly fine u big bucks. again it depends on ur state.

so if those things are an issue for u then my reccomendation for u is to get emission legal shorty headers and keep ur air pump.

guys if i have missed anything or am wrong on anything please correct me. i don't want him to the wrong info.
thanks.
Jay.

no im using shortie headers on a 305 tbi, i need to ask him again why he was talking about removing it. i think he said there was no spot on the header for a diverter valve, i dont know if that has something to do with it.
but im in florida, so i dont have emissions so it doesnt really matter i guess.

so you say that GM sellls an air pump delete belt?
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and i guess as long as it doesnt affect the performance or operations of my car than im alright then huh?
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also with the headers under their now, doesnt that heat up the engine bay more. anything i can do to keep it cooler in there. or does it matter?

dont forget getting at header bolts with goddamn airtubes in the way

yes u would be ok in Fla. do a search on these boards and u will find the belt size u need. any parts store will have it.

Then you bought headers without AIR tubes. I would recommend keeping the air pump on there and start saving up for headers with AIR tubes. From what I heard, Florida recently passed a law to start doing emissions testing.
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Its guys like you that give the rest of us a bad name, and cause the lawmakers to write these tough emissions laws to make it look like they're doing something to clean up the air. Thanks.

By the way, how much of that 5 horsepower you gained by removing your "ugly smog crap" did you feel in the seat of your pants, on the dyno, or at the drag strip?

Taking off the evap can means a 10% loss in fuel economy. You're letting gas vapours just empty into the air unburned. A total waste if you ask me.

yes. removing egr and the evap is a bad idea on a return style fuel system. and if FLA is starting to test,then i would save for legal headers.u might want to look into what the emission inspection is going to cover. if its goin to be an under the hood inspection then get legal headers.

if its not then just make sure u keep cat(s) and egr. the pump would be able to be done away with as well. like i said before its only used to pump air in to the cat to super heat it so it will go into closed loop faster. the cpu will not even no its gone. that is a fact.

my car is tagged up classic wich makes me inspection exempt,but i still have cats,o2,egr and pcv.

its not worth it. and it doesn't give u shite for power.

so if your car is a classic than your are emission exempt,
doesnt it become a classic after 10 years

what hooker headers could i have gotten that had air pumps the 2055s

thats a bunch of crap they were only 200 more than what i paid for mine. oh well ill just save the air pump and everything that goes with it and if i have to ill switch them out, if flordia passes that law.

lol.noooooooooooo. 20 yrs is classic and 25 antique. but this is N.J.

The law is fairly useless if you read it. It doesn't really effect existing cars, just cars that are being sold as new. Seemed kinda asinine when I skimmed over it. Maybe I need to revisit it.

I actually just took my Catalytic Converter off today. I'm keeping it around just incase in the near future I get an emissions notice. As for the smog pump... I just left it there. I was told when I opened a thread to just put it somewhere out of the way. I can't wait to post a picture of the way I turned my Camaro into a straight pipe... Everyone is going to be scratching their heads thinking... WHY DID THIS GUY MAKE SUCH AN EASY PROCESS SO COMPLICATED!

Most people will tell you that removing the cat will not make your car louder and it will not make your exhaust sound any better. From my experiment I can honestly say it was completely worth it. For my year of Camaro it's pretty much a perfect sound. The exact sound i've been looking for. Flowmaster 80 series muffler and a straight pipe cat make for a deadly combination. The only thing is to make sure you keep all the gaps sealed.

well i've never read on here or anywhere else that removing the cat doesn't improve the sound,just the opposite. it makes it louder.

i do know, however that there is little noise diff between a HIGH FLOW cat (not shouting) and an open pipe. u will pick up about 5 h/p w/o a cat,but whats 5 h/p??

its better for torq to have a high flow cat then no cat at all. this is with a mostly stock motor where some back pressure is needed. with a highly modded motor no cat is needed except for the sniffer test.

all in all unless u have a pre 71 its better to have an egr and a cat,wether it be high flow or not. just to be safe from huge fines. unless u are building a drag car.

i just cut mine today and i put a one chamber in place of it and it souds good. I put a pipe to connect the original first and the sound was deeper and louder.

Incorrect. I went over this about a month ago.

Florida did away with it's emissions laws years ago. There is no reinstatement of emission laws because it was deemed unfair and unjust that only five counties were required to pass emissions and not the entire state.

http://www.dmv.org/fl-florida/smog-check.php

The emission laws that I think you are referring to, are all new vehicles sold models 2009 and beyond which will have to be California-emissions based. Also, all "government" vehicles will have to be obide by certain emission levels however they are still unsure as to what year levels those maybe........once again a dog-and-pony show!

Well the thing is that buying the materials to go straight pipe is generally cheaper than buying the materials for a high flow cat.

Straight Pipe = 5 HP + Good Sound and $25 or cheaper.
High Flow Cat = 2 HP + Good Sound and $40-70 depending on what you get.

You are right man. But honestly, I've gone from one to the other and felt no difference so...........

i recently took off my dual cats and got 180 bucks in scrap for them, then i put on some slp headers and straight pipe. I can definetly feel the difference (mostly the headers) but the sound is so much louder and better, more muscle-cary, plus the exhaust smells better too. i also tacked a heat shield over it to make it look like a cat.

You got 180 bucks for 2 cats for scrap? Isn't that more than they cost new? I guess Buffalo is pretty damn squeaky clean with that kind of buy back