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I am trying to replace the header gasket on the passenger side and I am having trouble removing some of the header bolts. It took me 1 hr and 1/2 to lossen the back bolt (near the firewall).
The headers on my car are Hedman shorties part # 68481, and to access some of the bolts are terrible.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get these bolts out?
just keep working on it.
you have to jack the car up and get under it to get a few of them.
for me, i found it easier to buy two new sets of bolts.
one with the standard hex head, and then i got another set with allen key heads.
the allen ones are easier in some places, the hex heads are easier in others.
i still would like to know any suggestions on keeping them from coming loose all the time though.
i dread tightening them up, but i can tell it needs to be done pretty bad.
just keep working on it.
you have to jack the car up and get under it to get a few of them.
for me, i found it easier to buy two new sets of bolts.
one with the standard hex head, and then i got another set with allen key heads.
the allen ones are easier in some places, the hex heads are easier in others.
i still would like to know any suggestions on keeping them from coming loose all the time though.
i dread tightening them up, but i can tell it needs to be done pretty bad.
I used the above bolt/lock kit. Installed/removed pretty easy due to the small and 12 point heads. The wire locks look like they should prevent any backing out.
I have another questions.....would using a 7/16 long socket be good to use for removing the bolts?
I tried using an open end wrench but I can't undo the bolts as it keeps touching the header pipe.
There are short combo wrenches out there that should help you out A LOT. I would think if you can't get the open end wrench in, a socket wouldn't go either...
There are short combo wrenches out there that should help you out A LOT. I would think if you can't get the open end wrench in, a socket wouldn't go either...
Update: I was able to loosen the 2nd bolt near the firewall, but how do you reach the center bolt?
i used a pretty tricky piece that had a swivel and socket built into one for a few.
another trick is ratcheting ended open end wrenches. they were pretty useful too.
i once saw a kit that had allen key head bolts and you used a c clip to secure a flange onto the head of the bolt and jammed it against the header tube...
i might look into those some time.
ill see if i can find an example
Be sure and let some penetrant / lube sit on them for a bit before removing...
I used Breslin bolts, they tighten up, then inside them, there is an allen you tighten...
A lot less parts to deal with than the locking ones...
After alot of patience I was able to remove those terrible header bolts. I am thinking about getting some other type of bolts that are easier to remove that don't hit the header tube.
Can anyone provide some recomendations on what are good bolts to use?
I used the Stage 8 locking bolts on mine, you can either use a wrench, socket or allen key to tighten.
Took a little time but once on with locks in place they don't loosen up.
I was looking at the ARP website and came across 2 different header bolt sizes, a 3/8 and a 5/16. Which size would be good to use with my Headman shorties, and should I get the bolt that you can tighten with an allen key or the regular style?
3/8" and 5/16" is the diameter of the bolt, 3/8 converted to 16s is 6/16 with makes it thicker than 5/16" if you use a 5/16" in a 3/8" hole you'll strip the threads. Take one of the bolts and have it sized at an auto parts store. You tell one from the other by counting the threads 3/8" is 16 threads and 5/16" is 18 threads per inch. If it's fine thread they're both 24 threads per inch.
All SBC header/manifold bolts should have 3/8"-16 threads. The stock bolts have 9/16" heads on them. Putting a 5/16" diameter bolt in a hole with 3/8" internal threads won't damage the threads, since holes that will be tapped with 3/8" threads are drilled with a 5/16" bit.
Has anyone used the Percy's Split lock bolts? I have the Stage 8 bolts now on my hedman shorties but I'm not sure if I am going to reuse those when I put my longtubes on since they were a complete PITA to install and I expect the uninstall to be just as bad..
I have the Percy's Split lock bolts. I bought an engine, Percy's gaskets and the bolts and had someone install everything for me. I've put maybe 2000 miles on the car and numbers 6 and 8 are already loose. Good thing I used the good gaskets otherwise I'd be replacing a gasket right now but these don't blow out like normal header gaskets. Anyway the bolts are not as easy as I thought they would be. First off there are some header tubes that bend around and pass in front of the bolts. So the allen wrenches I have are too tall to get them in and out, plus all the handles (the longer part) are all too short to get a good handle on them while inserting them into the locking pins. So I got another allen wrench that was just as tall as others but had a longer handle. I straightened it out then re-bent it so it was shorter. That wrench now clears all header tubes.
The ratcheting wrenches I have are too thick around so they don't fit on all of the bolts because the bolts are too close to the tubes. So I went out and got some new regular 12-point wrenches. Well that still won't work for numbers 6 and 8. The bolts are just too close to the tubes.
At this point I am pissed that I even got headers. I kept burning spark plug wires but finally got that under control and I'm constantly trying to get to those back two bolts. All this with a bad back. I wish I never got headers. I hate them.
So, Percy's? Excellent gaskets, I highly recommend using them no matter what the cost is. But I wouldn't bother with the split lock bolts they make. I'm looking for new bolts today in case I ever can get those last two bolts out.
Guys, for 10-12 bucks, I'd try the ones I had in the link above from AutoZone. They are not nearly as expensive as the ones from summit, they make sense. the heads are smaller to accommodate the bolts where the pipes interfere, and the heads have BOTH a 12-point and allen wrench option. I looked into some of the much more expensive options at summit, and it was a no brainer when I found these.