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I was browsing through headers for the 355 and I came across these hedman tork-step headers http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
the primaries flucuate between 1 1/2-1 5/8 to create "more torque". Are these for real or just bs?
Anybody???? I've never heard a claim of "torque producing" headers. I'd like to know if they're for real because I'm looking for all the torque possible for my 355 TPI.
The way I see it, a v8 already makes enough torque. You need to focus on power in the power range you will be in the most. Those headers will help make more low end torque but will KILL any upper rpm power that a bigger cam and good heads will get you.
Its my opinion that 1 5/8 headers are too small for a stock 350TPI. 1 1/2 primary headers will be WAY too small for a heads and cam 355.
Go with a set of 1 3/4 headers with 3 inch collectors and you will be just fine.
I'm not looking for top end power, my plan is to have the car done by 5-5500 rpm. The power range I will be in most is 1400-3000 80% of the time. If you notice the 2 cams I've selected you'll see they are both short duration, decent lift cams. As for the primaries, I dont see to many 1 3/4 around, let alone in my price range, I have about 350 to spend on headers and y-pipe.
I'm not looking for top end power, my plan is to have the car done by 5-5500 rpm. The power range I will be in most is 1400-3000 80% of the time. If you notice the 2 cams I've selected you'll see they are both short duration, decent lift cams. As for the primaries, I dont see to many 1 3/4 around, let alone in my price range, I have about 350 to spend on headers and y-pipe.
If you are going to be racing it at all then you won't be inthe 1400-3000 range for very long. Even with my stock stalled 3.23 geared car I didn't spend much time in that rpm range unless I was driving around normally. Even then a stock 305 TPI car has enough torque to get around just fine in those rpms, let alone a 355 car with better heads and cam and hopefully the proper stall.
Maybe look up the Dyno Dons headers. I have read they are 1 3/4 primaries but I am not sure on the price. If you can't find any in that size in your price range then atleast stick with 1 5/8 instead.
Yeah I'll look into Dyno Don's but I'm pretty sure his are a pretty penny. As for racing, this car wont see the track for a long time. Its just a nice budget 355 thats replacing the leaky 305 that was in the car. It is my DD so I'm not looking at anything radical, just a crap load of torque to have fun with on the street.
Yeah I'll look into Dyno Don's but I'm pretty sure his are a pretty penny. As for racing, this car wont see the track for a long time. Its just a nice budget 355 thats replacing the leaky 305 that was in the car. It is my DD so I'm not looking at anything radical, just a crap load of torque to have fun with on the street.
If you can, save up for a bit and get some good headers. Its a job I wouldn't suggest doing twice (even though I am about to) if you can help it. I still suggest long tubes over shorties but according to some, those are taboo to talk about around here..
The tork step headers have a step (duh), which reduces reversion. Reversion is caused by the overlap on a big cam, which pollutes the fresh air charge in the cylinder with exhaust gases.
These headers have a small 1.5" primary section, which does not noticeably increase back-pressure compared to purely 1.625" headers.
1 5/8" is the norm for a small block chev, only recently have 1 3/4" become "common", and due to their exorbitant cost, they still aren't common. 1 5/8" is fine.
The tork step would help increase your torque, if you have a big cam which has some overlap. With the small cams you have planned I doubt they'd do very much. However it can't hurt, so if they fit your budget, i'd buy them. Personally I think they'd help in my combo more-so than yours (and as mentioned, a small block chev rarely suffers from lack of torque no matter what...)
__________________ 355 010 block decked to .021" deck height, .020" gasket, Speedpro hyper flat tops H345, 10.3:1 SCR calculated, turned stock crank - no balance job, Ohio crankshaft 5.7" 4340 rods 416 heads, 1.94" back cut/1.50", fully ported and polished. Chambers ended up at 64cc. Isky Z-25 - 1.6 SA rockers modified non-cc Q-jet Edelbrock Performer RPM Q-jet intake Super T-10 w/ Hurst super comp shifter. Howe hydraulic TO bearing with custom hydraulic linkage setup Heddman 68470 headers, custom y-pipe, full 3" exhaust, dynomax ultraflo welded muffler Rebuilt & beefed 10 bolt rear, Detroit True-trac, 3.73 gears
Thanks sonix, thats pretty much what I was looking for. I'm caught between these and the Hooker 2460's. I know sb's have no torque issue, just looking for as much under 3400 rpm fun I can possibly have. That and the price isnt bad
I have the same set up you're refering to 355 with a Comp Cam X60 and I just had Tork Steps installed two weeks ago. I'd highly recommend them. My car was no slouch before but now it's an animal. It pulls like it never did before so the increase in torque is'nt bs. Only downside is I had to wait almost two months for delivery, but other than that they're great. Oh and get them HTC coated if you can. Total price for mine was $526.00.