ExhaustPost your questions and suggestions about stock or aftermarket exhaust setups. Third Gen exhaust sound files and videos!
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Alright so I'm driving my 89 firebird 350 TPI the other day and all of a sudden the muffler is dragging on the ground. I looked under and found that the pipe that connects to the muffler is badly rusted and broke off. I am assuming the exhaust system is stock. I wanted to replace the whole thing at some point in the future, but now it seems like it would be better to do it all now. I'm looking for some advice on purchasing a new system (headers included). I was thinking magnaflow catback and edlebrock headers. Any and all input is helpful.
That all depends... were you looking to go loud? high flow or trying to just replace it? Also depends on the headers your trying to get long or short and how much your willing to drop usually between $500-$1200 for a mild full exhaust system, headers, cats, pipes mufflers etc.
I was hoping to find a nice balance between loud and performance...I know basically nothing about headers so i don't know the difference between short or long pipe. I have another car that I'm driving now so it doesn't need to get done right away. I also don't mind spending money as long as I'm getting quality parts. Form the short amount of time I spent looking at prices, I was quessing $5-600 on headers and about 3-450 on the rest (cat, pipes, muffler, clamps, etc.)
The following will fit your requirements: Hooker 2055's (Jeg's 520-2055). Catco high-flow converter (Summit CTO-9118). Hooker catback (Summit HOK-16823HKR).
The above is a direct-fit, three-inch system. Hooker headers are a board favorite. The sound of the above is tame at cruise, allowing conversation and music at a reasonable level. At WOT, however, the snarl is nasty enough.
JamesC
__________________ "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, / Than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Hamlet
"Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies." Nietzsche
I would save the $350 and go with the 20055HKR you can always wrap em or do whatev not worth spending that amount of money if you are planning a fairly stock exhaust. Also my personal opinion is flowmaster sucks and it is a very heated debate on this forum. Personally go get the headers and go to an exhaust shop and shop around for a true dual exhaust. That way it sounds great and your saving yourself the frustration, based on what you said prior I recommend dynomax. I've never seen anything but great things from them and they are cheaper and have a pretty custom set of exhaust systems depending on what you need.
Magnaflow ftw !!! Really if you plan to just keep the motor stock and just drive it whatever sound you like the best will be what you should get! Headers i would say either the hooker shortys and y or the hedman shortys and y!
cruse the net for a cheap hooker 2055 with y pipe. i got mine for 150.00 and then had it coated.
looked around and found a 3 inch internal diameter cat - but mine has to be cal smog approved - called carb. as are the headers.
i payed 80.00 for a 31 inch 3 inch internal diameter chamber exhaust for the center pipe.
the entire thing including headers was less than 400.00.
Lots of good info here, and you're really fortunate to have another
vehicle while trying to slay this dragon.
The Hooker 2055 system is solid & has a good rep here on the board.
2064's are an alternative, if you want to get into removing the air pump
and plumbing -- and upgrade the cat to one w/out the air inlet.
Raw headers dump LOTS of heat into the engine compartment. So plan
on some form of insulation (coating, wrapping, or both) for either
type of header. I went with e-bay used ones, then Jet-Hots best
thermal coating applied. Since I want to be able to set on Houston
freeways in august with the a-c on, I'm also going to insulation wrap.
Muffler selection is more of a personal issue w/ respect to you're
preference: max performance (i.e. LOUD), or good performance
but quiter. If you take your time, do lots of reading/research (especially
this forum, I think the budget you're allowing can produce something
nice, that you'll be happy with.
Said to be suttle like a virgin when idle and a crazy slut at WOT. Check out some sound clips, it will help a lot.
P.S. I think I should have got a longer catalytic converter for a full bolt on system. Oh well. I think I'm 10" short between the outlet of the cat and inlet of the cat-back system.
__________________
-Wrong Wheel Drive-
The improper displacement of power to the front wheels.
Thanks to all for your help. I haven't really had time to do much searching, as I have been busy. The car was at my mechanic about a week ago for an oil change and to replace a little hose that runs next to the oil filter that was leaking antifreeze (my dad and I got the old one off but could not get the new hose on). I asked him about the exhaust situation and he said that in order to pass MA state inspection the exhaust system would need to be OEM or an equivalent.
No person shall operate a motor vehicle on any way which motor vehicle is equipped (1) with a muffler from which the baffle plates, screens or other original internal parts have been removed and not replaced; or (2) with an exhaust system which has been modified in a manner which will amplify or increase the noise emitted by the exhaust. ( http://www.mass.gov/legis/laws/mgl/90-16.htm )
I was just wondering exactly what that meant...can I still go completely after market with Hookers and flowmaster or dynomax or whatever or will I be effed when I have it inspected?
Check out some sound clips, it will help a lot.
