hey gang am planning on installing my hooker 2460 shorty headers with y pipe soon. ( i think its 2460s i bought it used came with the Y pipe already but no AIR tubes so i thought it was a 2460) anyways any tips i should go about installing those? anything else i should change out while am under there? my car has over 220k miles so i was planning on changing the motor mounts is it pretty hard to do without dropping the A arm? am already replacing the spark plugs/wires/rotor/cap still looking for wire looms though. also looking for heat resistant sleeves for the wires if i need them or not. i already have a mini starter and heat blanket on it so it should be okay

Look through the sticky above titled Those with hooker 2055s. The 2460 and 2055 are almost identical, would make install the same for either.

Haven't done the Hooker headers, but as far as your motor mount goes, it is possible w/o dropping the A-arm, just be sure to have patience and a swivel 15mm socket. I'm pretty sure it was 15mm, may want to double check before you go out and get one...

It's a 15 I'm pretty sure. Also, buying a cheap box-end wrench and bending it at an angle about 1 1/2" from the socket end will make some of them much easier to reach. (From experience)

i just installed hooker shorty headers on mine. i removed the starter and put the passenger side in from the bottom.

I will be doing my 2055's this weekend. I'll let you know if I run into anything...

Replace your aux fan. switch if needed (passenger head), knock sensor if needed (passenger side of engine to the right of the starter), temp gauge switch if needed (Driver side head)

do you know the length and degree of bend from the aftermarket cat to the center pipe.
i need to get a piece made from the cat to the mid pipe, which is a chambered exhaust, so i dont have to drive with wide open headers to get to a shop or pay them a lot of money to put my headers on for me.
thanks for any informaiton.

so i got started on my installation today


got the drivers side out and cleaned up going work on the pass. side tomorrow and i had a few questions.

1. smog pump what do you guy do with it? leave it on? or add a delete pulley? or run smaller belt?

2. how did u guys get to all those bolts on the pass. side having a hard time working in the small space.

2055 hookers, you drop in from the top or from the bottom/


thanks,

sorry for nto searching but i dont have much time online to search for hours

since your headers don't have the air pipe connections, remove the smog pump and install a delete pulley. that's what i did with my 89 iroc.

I am unsure about the degree of bend but, if you have the Hooker 2055's with y-pipe and a 23" catalytic converter (Stock Size), everything should bolt up or slip over directly. I have a 13" converter so I need to purchase a 10" straight pipe for after the cat to mate to my mid pipe. Something I can do in my driveway. Just need to get my cat inlet expanded to slip fit the y-pipe, the 10" straight pipe expanded to slip fit the cat, and lastly have my mid pipe flange cut off and extended to slip fit the straight pipe in. The straight pipe may need to be somewhat longer due to the slip fit taking up some of the pipe in overlap. So I may overlap about 1.5" of pipe making me need about a 14.5" pipe for a perfect mate.

Get out a protractor, set the y-pipe on paper, trace the outlet angle and length then measure the angle. Should be fairly easy, only thing is I don't have a protractor haha.

-Take care

is it possible to run a smaller belt ? and delete the air pump? or i need to get a air pump delete pulley?

i am also thinking of buying those headers tell me if your happy with the results they give you and how much did you spend for them

i put my passenger side in from the bottom after i removed the starter. no air pipes then remove the smog pump. run it for now without even needing a delete pulley till you get one. ran mine for two months till i made my own.

i was reading one of the TECH pages and u can run a longer belt to bypass the smog pump is that correct? you can remove the pump and just bypass it?

yes. use the belt listed in the tech article and reroute it.

Unsure if this was directed towards me but I love these sluts, I also got these coated by Gellner Engineering in Parma Heights Ohio. They did a fabulous job removing the air tubes and grinding them flat both inside and out and coating it with the extreme sterling 1700* coating both inside and out including the y-pipe.

I spent

Headers and y-pipe uncoated= $470
Stage 8 bolts= $50
ARP Collector Bolts= $20
Coating and tube removal= $470

Total= $1010

Sounds like a lot but I plan to keep my 305 TBI and stroke it to a 335 then SC it and spray it. So I am basically finishing this motor as I go, which is why I am replacing all bolts with ARP and SS. Once I get all the bolts ons done I am sending the motor to gellner to build the internals up. Will be some time before this happens, but it will.

-Take care