92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I'm installing the Dynomax Dual Exhaust kit for 82-92 Camaros/Firebirds on my 92 Camaro and since there's been a few threads started lately asking about it, I figured I'd take some pics and document the install process.

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A couple notes before I start:

1 - Do NOT buy this kit if you are using wheels 17" or larger on the fronts. You WILL rub the pipe coming from the driver's side header. 16" wheels MAY fit, but you will almost certainly have to modify the pipes.

2 - The kit is advertised as a 2 1/4" kit. This is the outside diameter of the pipes, not the inside diameter. I don't know if its a big deal, but I was expecting it to be 2 1/4" ID pipe.

3 - I don't know if anyone else will run into this, but my kit had the wrong instructions packaged with it. Not a big deal as they are available on Summit's website, but still annoying.

4 - I hope you don't need to run cats with this kit. I just don't see how they would fit.

5 - I am not using the "suggested" mufflers with this kit. I do not want the tips on the same side in the rear, I HATE that look. I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet, but I'm looking at a couple ideas. If anyone knows of a dual in/dual out muffler that has an in and out on each side instead of straight across, please let me know.

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This is the same 2 1/4" dual exhaust kit sold by Jegs and Summit for $167+shipping. Its made to fit a specfic set of Dynomax shorty headers(P/N 85012), but should be easily modified to fit most others. I picked my headers up last spring at a local swap meet before I had even heard of this kit and they just happened to be the right ones.

I had to modify them to fit the exhaust system I had on the car at the time. So my first step was to unmodify them. I don't have any pics of that part as its not something anyone else should have to do.

Once I got that taken care of, I loosely bolted the 2 header extensions to the headers. Clearance around the oil pan, starter, and k-member is pretty good and doesn't look like there will be any ground clearance issues. My Camaro is stock height and will not be lowered since it already almost scrapes going in and out of my garage as well as on some of the local roads that I have to drive every day.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

The first problems I ran into are clearance issues with the plastic wheel well liner and the stock heat shield for the catalytic converter. The heat shield could be removed, but I want the pipes up tight enough that they are almost touching the floorboards so I need to leave it in place. They are both easy fixes if you have a pair of tin snips. I removed a 1"x2" section from the bottom inner corner of the wheel well liner.

The heat shield from the cat has a small "lip" that is bent down at the front of the shield that needs to be removed to tuck the pipes up as tight as possible. If you take a look at the pic below you can see what was removed.

Other pics show how the pipes route out around the front of the frame rail.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

After I got that taken care of, I installed the next sections of pipe. They are small extensions about 12-14" long. The kit includes "double clamps," basically just 2 exhaust clamps welded together. The set that clamps the front of these short extension to the header pipes went on ok, but the angle at which the pipes run puts the other end of the short extensions too close for the double clamp to fit. You could cut the clamps apart and use them separately, but the kit uses this double clamp to mount the pipes to the subframe. The pic is at a bad angle, but you can see what I mean.

I also found out that the wheel on the passenger side rubs the front pipe when turned to the right. I couldn't even turn the wheel to full lock before it stopped against the pipe. I'm not running large wheels and tires, just the OEM 15" alloys with stock size rubber. If you're running larger wheels and tires, this is going to be a problem I'm beginning to think this is why the description on Summit's website only lists the early 305-engined cars and no L98's or later IROC/Z28/Formula cars. 16" wheels would be pushing it after modifying the pipes, anything larger than that would almost certainly not work. I had to modify the pipe coming from the driver's side header to make it work, but that's the next post.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

To keep from hitting the pipe with my wheel, I ended up having to lengthen a section of the pipe from the driver's side header. This was so I could run the pipe from the driver's side header tight up against the pipe from the passenger side between the frame rail and wheel. Otherwise I would have to run the pipe from the driver's side under the pipe from the passenger side header and I didn't want to do that. I would have lost too much ground clearance and it wouldn't route properly under the car along the driveshaft tunnel.

I initially tried to rework one of the bends to make it fit, but after a couple tries I found out it wouldn't work as it made the pipe too short where it passes under the starter. So I cut the pipe and ran to Autozone and picked up a 2 1/4"IDx2 1/4"ID adapter to use as a spacer. This worked great except that due to my earlier attempt to rework one of the bends the end of the pipe where the intermediate pipe attaches was now at the wrong angle. I would have to run the I-pipe through the middle of the floor pan instead of down the driveshaft tunnel.

If I had a tubing bender it would have been no problem to redo the bend a bit tighter. I tried clamping the pipe to the block wall in my garage and bending it, but the clamp broke and I ended up on my ***.

So on to plan B, cutting slits in the pipe, bending it and welding it back together. It's a pretty common way to make curves from wood, but I don't think its used much in metalworking. I used the same method to try and rework the other bend as well.

You can see the cuts I had to make in the pipe to bend it in the pics as well as the 2 previous cuts from the first attempt to rebend it.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Another pic of the header extension pipe mod for the driver's side pipe. You can see the sleeve I used to lengthen it. I only needed to make it about 1"-1 1/4" longer. I now have 1/2"-3/4" clearance between the pipe and the passenger tire when the steering is at full lock.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

awesome install dude, you are givng me hope for my car

$750 L98

Turning out better than mine did! Keep up the good work dude!

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! I've run into a problem that has nothing to do with the exhaust kit though. My garage is so small that I can only work on part of the car at a time. When I pull the car in, I can reach the front and the driver's side, if I back it in I can get to the rear and the passenger side. I had hoped to get the front of the exhaust in and the car turned around before the big snowstorm last weekend so I can keep working, but it just didn't happen. So until it decides to stop snowing and what we have melts off a bit I'm kind of at a standstill.

I have noticed that the where the pipes run back the driveshaft tunnel, the one is against the ebrake cable. I'm hoping once I can get it turned around I can get the rear up in the air and get the over-the-axle pipes in and I'm hoping I can tie the ebrake cable up somehow.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

What is the stock size of the exhuast on a 1983 trans am?

will I get any gains with is mod?

QuickStyle

exhaust tubing is measured in OD and mufflers/connectors are measured in ID that way the exhaust tube can fit inside the muffler/connector, that crush bent tubing probably took the OD size to about 1.75"-2". ouch.

82TA_JAIME

iTrader: (1)

i have this set up on my firebird. i installed it like 6 months ago and have recently been getting exhaust leaks around the U clamps where the pipes connect, mainly in the middle of the car. are you having the same issue? i tightened the clamps pretty snug so i dunno.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

That could be your problem right there. Overtightening them causes warping and exhaust leaks.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

With the 2-3' of snow we have here, I haven't been able to drive the car at all. I haven't even been able to back it out of the garage to turn it around so I can work on the rear part of the install. I've been doing some electrical work on it the last 2 weeks or so. Wired in a Start button and now I'm working on installing a secondary fuse box.

The pipes I have are a pretty tight fit even without the clamps. If yours is leaking its very possible you tightened the clamps too much as was mentioned above. If its just a few pinhole leaks you can try filling them with some JB Weld epoxy. If you push it into the seams it seals small leaks pretty well.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Ok, so I was finally able to turn the car around this past week as the snow finally melted off the road for a day or two. Since then, we've gotten another 8-10" though.

Anyhow, I got the rear of the car up in the air and started on the pipes running back the driveshaft tunnel and up over the axle. I don't have any of them in their final positions yet, but they are close. I had been hoping to get them finalized tonight, but I don't know if that's going to be possible. I need to measure clearances and see what kind of mufflers I can cram under the car. I'm probably looking at glasspacks due to space constraints, but I may be able to squeeze some small mufflers in the back. Anyone know if dual in/out mufflers can only flow in one direction? Or can I plumb them like in the (crude) diagram below?

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Anyhow, here's some more pics of the install. These are taken from under the back of the car looking towards the front.

In the first one, I need to get the one pipe to tuck up a little better without hitting the floorboards. Even though the other one looks like its close to the front U-joint there is actually plenty of clearance.

The second one shows the connection to the over-the-axle pipes. I really need to do some tweaking here. The E-brake cable is in the way and wants to rest against one or both pipes and I'm having a slight problem with keeping the inner pipe away from the U-joint on rear of the driveshaft. The right clamp is turned so the bolts don't scrape the ground. I'm going to order some band clamps with the mufflers I get so I can easily disconnect the over-the-axle pipes. I want to drop the rear and the gas tank next winter to clean up the underbody back here and put some type of protective coating on. Also want to change the fuel pump while I have that out.

Last pic shows another angle on the connections in front of the diff. It looks like I've got good ground clearance here, but I have the car supported on the rear frame rails so the axle is hanging down.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Here's some shots of the pipes going over the axle and PHB/brace.

First pic is looking up from the ground at where the pipes go over the axle and PHB and brace. It's a tight fit over the PHB and brace but there is some wiggle room. Yes, I'll take the part number tags off before I'm done

Second pic is from more to the rear and I'm sure you can see the next major issue I need to deal with. Its actually hanging lower than it looks in the pic. I am probably going to have to cut out a section of that pipe and weld it back together to shorten it up a bit. I tried different ways of moving it around and messing with its route over everything. I can get it up to where it needs to be if I really push it up against the underside of the car, but then both pipes are crammed in there against the body and I'm afraid of heating up the carpeting inside too much. It also still won't be turned quite the right direction for where I need to run the pipes.

Last pic looks up from under the PHB and shows how messed up that one pipe is. Gonna be fun to fix that one!

I don't know if I'll get to work on it tonight as the wifey wants to go out with some friends and someone's gotta watch the kids, so I may not have anything for a few more days. I'm so close to getting it to the point where I can measure for and order the mufflers that I just wanna get it done cause ordering parts is always fun

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

One last question:

Anyone think it would be worth trying to work some sort of crossover pipe in? I can easily fit an H- or X-pipe in where the cat used to be. I am just not sure it would be worth the effort and cost to do it.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I got some more work done on the install this past week, just haven't had a chance to post an update till today. After some measuring and figuring I decided to go with a pair of 20" Thrush glasspacks. If you wanted to use the intended arrangement where the exhaust tips are both on the same side of the car, you could fit a pair of Cherry Bomb Turbo Mufflers back there.

Since I want to retain the stock look with the tailpipes exiting on both sides I need to modify the kit a little. For the pipe that exits behind the driver's side I could have left it alone but it would run under the bottom of the trunk well and I wanted to tuck it up a little higher than that. By removing approximately a 2" section of the pipe I was able to bring it forward so it runs under the gas tank and in front of the trunk well. I am probably going to cut the pipe off after the last 90* bend so that the glasspack is mounted sideways under the gas tank. Pics below show the section I removed and the shortened pipe. The part I'll cut off for the glasspack is the straight section after the last bend on the left in the pics.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Now, for the pipe that exits on the passenger side all I really need to do is change the bend behind the axle. Since the kit is designed so both pipes exit the driver's side, it is turned a little better than 90* toward that side. What I did was cut the bend off and weld it back on so its pointed to the rear and slightly towards the passenger side so that the outlet of the bend lines up with the rear frame rail.

I plan on running both tailpipes out under the rear lined up with the rear frame rails as that will be the easiest way to ensure that everything looks even from the rear when its done.

I also removed a short section, about 2", to bring the pipe up closer to the underside of the car to keep ground clearance as much as possible. After welding it up and test-fitting it, I found out that the bend is more than 90* and ends up pointing up slightly, towards the underside of the car. So I need to rework the bend a bit so that it points straight toward the rear of the car. The nice thing is that I will be able to use the stock hanger locations on both sides in the back for the tailpipes.

built91Z28

From what I've seen it would be worth it. For what its worth, I am in the middle of building a custom 2.5" mandrel bent system for his 85 TA that is using a X-pipe where the cat was. I had never seen a system like yours when I started building it. My system is following the same path as yours but is using Magnaflow resanators under the car and is going to end under the car. We are also putting 3 bolt flanges right after where the cat was. This is so we can take the back of the exhaust off if we ever need to pull the driveshaft.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I wish I could dump mine under the car, it would make the install so much easier. Unfortunately PA inspection regs require it to exit at the rear bumper since its considered a hatchback. I was originally planning on welding all the connections together and only using clamps at the connection in front of the rear axle if I need to take it apart. If I put a crossover pipe of some kind in I'll have to leave the connections at the front unwelded so I can take the pipes off the headers individually. I am kinda reluctant to do that as I've had issues with exhaust pipes coming apart there before with the old exhaust setup on this car and with the one on my truck.

built91Z28

Is there a particular reason you would need to be able to take the pipes off the headers individually? On my brothers car its all one piece coming out of both headers, into the X and then a few inch's out of the X.

I'm about to start working on it again. I am putting a small piece of Summits stainless flex section before the X so that the rest can get mounted solid and the engine can still flex. I'll take a few pics so you can see how it is routed to see if it would help you at all.

LS7Roc

I went to numerous shops and exhaust shops and they always told me that it was impossible to run a duel exhaust because of clearance issues.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Yes, pics are always great! As for why I'd want to take them off the headers individually - I just think it would be a royal PITA to have them connected together when trying to bolt them back on. I figured it would be easier to have the header pipes come off individually, then the pipes that run back the driveshaft tunnel as one piece, and the over-the-axle and tail pipes separately as well.

If I added the crossover to the pipes the way I wanted to weld them up originally, everything from the header connections back to where the pipes turn up over the axle would be one piece. That would be a bit heavy to hold in place with 1 hand while I try to start the bolts with the other.

built91Z28

Alright. Here is some of my brothers car from today. In some of the pic the whole exhaust is hard tubing. Then you will see a short flex tubing section in some. This is one of the changes I made today. I'm mounting from the X section back solid so it doesnt hit the floarboards. The whole exhaust actually tucks up a little higher than it looks in the pictures. The whole exhaust was also done on jack stands laying on the ground just using a normal chop saw, angle grinder, and MIG welder. He bought the Summit X-pipe kit but he also had to buy a few J bends from Summit. The whole thing is mandrel bent though.







There is still enough room to take the huge factory starter out.


I know it doesnt look like it, but there is enough room to put the pipe in the side of the X up against the sub frame connector.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Looks great!

Just a couple questions though:

It looks like you ran the pipes down either side of the driveshaft tunnel? Or am I just seeing things?

How is your clearance to the front tire? I had some issues there on mine.

built91Z28

Yeah its going to be run down both sides. It was the only way to get the resonators in there before the axle. This is why the exhaust after the X is getting mounted solid. It will be about 1/8" away from the torque arm at full droop on the rear suspension. Its also how I'm going to do my car also next week. I have longtubes so everything else will be different though.

I had problems at first with it hitting the tire. Pissed me off too because I thought I had everything up to the X done and then I had to go and cut it all in half and rebuild half of it. Then I cut it up again today to put the flex sections in it. Oh well, it was worth it because everything fits perfectly now and it doesnt hit the tire. And he has 275/50/15's up front.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Once I get everything mocked up front to back for both pipes I'm going to look into adding some type of crossover pipe. I'll probably be an H-pipe because that will be easier to do I think. It's going to come down to how much room I've got between the pipes to get the welding gun in there.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I finally got 1 side completely done. The pipe that exits on the driver's side is all finished except for the tip. I had to re-do one of my last cuts to the over-the-axle pipe so the glasspack would fit. When I shortened the pipe the other night, I accidentally welding the last bend on at the wrong angle. It was turned so the glasspack would have to be run up into the trunk with the angle it was at. So I had to cut that apart and re-do it. I also shortened it another 1.5".

It also turns out that I will have to use a clamp to attach the glasspack to the pipe. I was going to weld it, but I won't be able to remove the pipe if I do because of the direction I need to turn it to pull it back up over the axle if I need to remove it. So it looks like I need to order another pair of band clamps from Summit as I might as well just clamp the other glasspack as well when I install it.

I also cut the pipe off after the last bend, leaving an inch or so to connect the glasspack to. If I hadn't cut it off there, the glasspack would never have fit lengthwise.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

After I got that pipe welded up, I was able to fit the glasspack in place and get the tailpipe lined up and welded to the glasspack. I also welded one of the hangers that came in the kit to the turn on the tailpipe so that it will bolt to the stock exhaust hanger mount.

I just need to go back and tighten up the clamps and weld the front pipes up and this one is done. I'm going to work on the getting the other glasspack installed first and then remove everything for welding once I have that done.

I still have to decide on what tips to use as well. I am going back and forth between an angled cut on the end of the pipes and putting a simple turndown on them. I guess I'll wait till I can get it outside and see how loud it is.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

And here's some final pics of it installed and a shot from behind the car showing where it exits below the bumper.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I got the other over-the-axle pipe finished up. I had to cut it and turn the top bend so that I can mount the other glasspack. I could have had it run straight out the back of the car, but the end of the glasspack would have been even with the end of the rear bumper and no room for a tailpipe. I didn't want to do that so I turned it so that the glasspack will sit parallel but in front of the other one. I could leave it like that and it would exit out the driver's side as well(and that would be much simpler) but I don't like that. I want the pipes to exit on either side like the stock setup. So I had to run a piece of pipe down behind the first glasspack and then into a 180* bend to bring it back over to the passenger's side. I don't have any 180* bends and the only ones in the parts stores are crush-bent even worse than the bends in the kit so I had to order one from Summit. It should be here later today and hopefully tonight I can finish up the fabrication part of it. Then I just need to weld up some joints and figure out my hanger locations.

The first two pics are of the finished over-the-axle pipe, and the last one is with it loosely installed.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

One more of it loosely installed.

$750 L98

Are those cherry bomb glasspacks? I'd gut them before you install them, I ran them for a bit on my LQ9, the sounded really bad placed at the end of the exhaust like that. Maybe your motor sounds better: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQhVRIyZtHM

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

They are Thrush Glasspacks, which are basically the same I believe. I think I heard something about them buying the Cherry Bomb name a few years ago. I'm going to run them as is for now, if I don't like the sound I will gut them. I originally wanted to put them further upstream in the driveshaft tunnel, but they wouldn't fit.

I've listened your vid several times and read through the thread you started on your install while trying to make a decision on what muffler/glasspack to use. As long as I don't get that flapping sound I think I'll be happy with it. Did you ever try gutting yours before you took them off? I'm curious as to how loud it would be? I would really prefer to run straight pipes, but of course the cops wouldn't like that a whole lot

I just have a plain Gen 1 SBC in my Camaro so I know it'll sound different, just not sure by how much.

$750 L98

I'm actually going to gut mine today and slap them on to see how obnoxious THAT is lol. I'll post up a vid for you when I get it done, your build is looking ridiculously good though. I am kinda thinking about going with a 4" single on mine at this point. The true dual 2.25" isn't enough for it now.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Let me know how hard it is to gut them. If its not too hard I may just go ahead and do it anyhow while the system is still not fully together.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

how well does this 2.5 exhaust set up work? does any one have any power gains or losses,


how is the fitment so far?

$750 L98

Gutting them isn't too bad, I cut the perforated tube around the inside, then pulled it through the inlet, it requires a bit of bending around the edges. The once the tube was sticking out of the inlet I pushed it through from the other side using a pipe and hammering the perforated tube out.

Looks just like the SLP loudmouth after that, I'll get some pics tomorrow, the second one is giving me issues. I bent the tube so it hangs on the inlet now, need to do some cutting with the dremel then pull it out.

If you have a welder, cut the muffler at one end, pull the packing and perforated tube (the perforated tube is not welded in, just sitting loose on top of the packing). Then you can weld it up and stick it back on.

Camaroguy6984

iTrader: (2)

Looks Good, i think i just found my next install

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I'd love to see some pics if you have them. Can't wait for the new sound clip!

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Got some more work done last Saturday night. I removed the stock exhaust hanger on the driver's side and replaced it with one of the brackets in the kit. Everything lines up just great.

I could have left the stock rubber hanger there as it did work, but I had to twist it 90* so it would line up with the hanger I welded to the pipe. It had a lot of play in it and I was afraid the pipe would swing around a lot while driving and bang off the underside of the car.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

After that was done, I was able to line up the pipe and glasspack for the other side. I got the U-bend lined up and tacked in place under the car. Then I pulled it back out so I could weld it up. The glasspack I left as a slip-fit using one of the clamps in the kit so I can remove it if I decide to change it or need to remove the rear pipe. I did weld the tailpipe to the glasspack.

The other thing I did here was use one of the double clamps from the kit to hold up the U-bend so I didn't have to try and mount it to the frame somehow.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Some shots of the pipes just behind the axle on the passenger's side. The other nice thing about not welding the glasspacks to the over-the-axle pipes is that I can turn rotate them on the pipes so I can adjust the height at which they hang under the rear bumper.

To mount the tailpipe for the passenger's side, I again used the stock mounting location. This time I didn't need to remove the stock mount as it was turned the right direction. I just welded another of the rubber hangers from the kit to the tailpipe and bolted it to the stock rubber hanger.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

And, finally, some shots of the tailpipes from the rear of the car. I hadn't adjusted the heights on them yet so the left one is hanging a bit lower than the right one. I did go back then and fix them. Both are 2.5" under the rear bumper.

I haven't decided on what tips to use yet, but I can put them on at any point. I may just leave the pipes go for now as they are flush with the back of the rear bumper. If I do go with tips, I've been going back and forth between these:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/IMM-577458/

or just a regular slant-cut tip.

All that is really left to do is weld up the front seams under where the cat used to be and fab up a mount there. I'm probably going to use one of the double clamps from the kit and weld a bar to it and bolt it to the tranny crossmember. I replaced the stock bolts and nuts for the crossmember when I first got the car by welding bolts inside the frame rails where the OEM nuts were. This way I don't have to try and hold the crossmember up while threading a bolt into a nut I can't see. The nuts were pretty rusted out as well, one had almost no threads left in it.

Hopefully I can get a sound clip later this week. Once I do, I'll be sure to post it up on Youtube with a link in this thread.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

please fire it up when you get the chance

and make a video showing the completed exhaust installed

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I just wanted to update on a couple things.

First off, it looks like most of the perimeter-style SFC's will fit with this kit. I don't have a set to test, but there is plenty of room along the pinchwelds and appears to be enough clearance for 1 or 2 braces from the pinchweld to the frame rail in front of the tranny crossmember. Any style of SFC that attaches at the rear of the frame rails, behind the tranny crossmember won't fit however.

Second of all, if I lost any ground clearance, it was less than a 1/2 inch. I did modify the kit somewhat up front for better fitment on my Camaro, but that was all done by tightening or loosening the bends. Nothing was done cutting/welding-wise to gain ground clearance.

I do have some full-length videos of the (95%)completed install. I will post them up on Youtube later today after I (hopefully) get a sound clip as well. They aren't that great as they are shot in my dimly lit garage using my cell phone camera and a trouble light, but you can see enough to get the idea. I'll try to get one outside in daylight tomorrow, but it will be difficult with the car on the ground to get under it enough.

I can't wait to hear it! If my truck wasn't blocking the garage door sitting on jackstands in the middle of an oil pump change I would have fired it up tonight and pulled it out to get the sound clip.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

who makes perimeter-style Subframe connectors ?

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Off the top of my head, Spohn, Competition Engineering, UMI, and I'm sure there are some I've missed.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Videos are up on Youtube. Taken with my cell phone as I couldn't find the good video camera, but they turned out pretty good.

Exhaust setup:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jf6v2qX6izw

Engine running, revved slowly to 3K, and then revved fast:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRzK0Q5Htjo