Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

Questions About Cams (And where to get them!)

LLCooLM495 — Fri, 15 May 2026 16:13:25 GMT

TL;DR: How would y'all go about sourcing a reasonably priced 60deg cam these days? And, would a Crane H272 be too much cam for a relatively stock 3.1/3400 hybrid NA?

Howdy!

I had some spare time and reckoned I might as well make a post while I had cams on the mind. I'll try to keep it short for once (spoiler alert, I failed)... basically, I'm planning way ahead for my eventual 3400 hybrid swap on my 3.1. Already have the heads/ intake/ DIS stuff, but still need pistons/ gaskets/ other supporting parts.... and time + money + an engine hoist, but I'll get to the point.

I'll be keeping my setup NA, at least initially, and would like to get a cam to go along with the rest of the new top end since I'll be needing new pushrods anyways. A cam would be nice, and I might as well since the rest of the valvetrain is going to be changing from the stock iron head stuff. Now, I've been doing research on this for awhile, and I have a decent idea of what cam I want... nothing too crazy, since this car is (and will continue to be) daily driven, but I had my eyes on the old Crane H272 grind. PROBLEM: Crane doesn't exist anymore, as such. I found an Australian shop that seems to have old stock of them HERE, but learned that they don't ship internationally after sending out an email. I'm considering maybe using a proxy shipping service, or finding an Australian friend, since the price is more than reasonable for the cam and lifters from them ($142 USD or so for the cam, $100 for 14 lifters, 2 extra just to be safe). Sure would beat paying close to $400 for a Comp with less lift, or $420 for a similar cam alone from WoT-Tech.... I did also find a Crower 292 grind for sale on the Crower site for $190, but I know that'd be FAR too much cam for what I want from the motor.

All of the threads I've been able to find across the web on 60deg cams seem to be pretty old, save for a couple over at the MG forums and Grassroots iirc... So, with Crane well out of business, and most of the premade 60deg cams here in the states being pricey (or too big), what's the general consensus on sourcing one? I know Delta was pretty well regarded in the 60deg circle back in the day, and their site appears to still be up, so I've been keeping them in mind, though I believe I'd need to have a core ready to send out for modification, which is a bit of a hinderance for me. I'd either have to buy a new stock grind and send it out, or wait until I'm at the point where I'm taking my motor apart and send them my cam. Ideally, I'm hoping to be able to get a completely new cam, though I know I can't really be too picky. Anyone know of any shops that can do custom grinds for reasonable prices without a core?

I'm also open to advice on cam selection, since I really have 0 experience with this sort of thing. I'm leaning towards the Crane H272 because it seems to me that it'd be a pretty good improvement over stock, but not so crazy that the car would be undriveable on the street. The car is manual btw, so I don't have to worry about torque converters or stalls or whatever. It's pretty similar to the WoT-Tech street/ strip cam as well (218/224 INT/EXH @ 0.050" for the WoT-Tech, 216/228 @ 0.050 for the H272), so I figure it oughta be useable with a mild rebuild on the 3400 valvetrain (thinking LS6 springs and the stock 1.6 rockers, and stock valves). I do also recall FastEddi having a lot of success with a Delta 260 grind, albeit with a turbo. Eventually I would like to slap a turbo on as well, but one step at a time... this project is still a ways out anyways, but I like to plan far ahead.

Any input is appreciated (don't say V8 swap though; yes I know it makes more sense to put money into a V8, but not everything has to be a 600hp LS swap). No specific HP/ TQ goals, though over 200 wheel would be nice. Oughta be doable NA with the 3400 bits and a cam, but once again: mostly a daily. Trying to stick with factory stuff as much as possible, don't want to try to convert to a roller cam or get the heads machined (though I do plan to gasket match the intake, would rather not touch the combustion chambers or valve guides). Don't get too excited yet either, not sure that I'll even be able to get to the point of pulling the motor this year... gotta watch my spending after the TKX swap :p hybrid build and accompanying overly-detailed guide WILL come eventually, as I did with the TKX swap, but I still have lots of planning and parts-hunting to do. See y'all in 2032 :lmao:

North Carolina Trans Am / GTA Digital Dash Radio Bezel

Ty92Z — Fri, 15 May 2026 11:30:08 GMT

GM 10030287 radio/ heater control bezel for digital dash cars. $90 dhipped

North Carolina 85-90 Trans Am / GTA Fog lights

Ty92Z — Fri, 15 May 2026 11:10:27 GMT

One complete right side 85-90 Trans Am / GTA fog light with mounting bracket. One left side mounting bracket and fog light housing, missing glass and thru-bolt that holds housing to mounting bracket. $80 shipped.

Need some help getting my 86 camaro running

Brzagod21 — Fri, 15 May 2026 03:01:53 GMT

So recently i bought a 86 z28 Camaro 305 TPI with he auto tranny and I've been stumped ever since i bought the car. bought it for a steal cause previous owner didn't want it taking space bought it for $1000 CAD and its in fair condition has little rust but nothing major but you know its a project. Quick rundown of the car its not perfect it didn't have a starter which i have bought waiting for delivery and other than that everything is intact. I hooked up a new battery made sure it was fully charged and no power was getting in so i thought maybe its a ground issue sanded down the grounds and made sure everything was snug but no power to the interior or the fuse box under the dash. previous owner seems to have tried to hook up a sound system and has spliced the wires underneath but I'm new to these cars and i don't

wanna mess it up. I've attached a photo of the bottom of the dash where all the wires are this is from the previous owners listing btw, i have the car stored nicely in a barn on 4 jack stands and i use it as my shop since I'm in the country side. i can take more precise photos if you guys need it I'm just Hella stumped this is my first every muscle car which i bought because it looked cool and hell its a Camaro. Any info or any help is much appreciated just want some help from the big leagues so 17 year old me can start this project and get her running

Need some help getting my 86 camaro running

Brzagod21 — Fri, 15 May 2026 02:41:54 GMT

So recently i bought a 86 z28 Camaro 305 TPI with he auto tranny and Ive been stumped ever since i bought the car. bought it for a steal cause previous owner didnt want it taking space bought it for $1000 CAD and its in fair condition has little rust but nothing major but you know its a project. Quick rundown of the car its not perfect it didn't have a starter which i have bought waiting for delivery and other than that everything is intact. I hooked up a new battery made sure it was fully charged and no power was getting in so i thought maybe its a ground issue sanded down the grounds and made sure everything was snug but no power to the interior or the fuse box under the dash. previous owner seems to have tried to hook up a sound system and has spliced the wires underneath but im new to these cars and i dont wanna mess it up. Ive attached a photo of the bottom of the dash where all the wires are this is from the previous owners listing btw, i have the car stored nicely in a barn on 4 jack stands and i use it as my shop since im in the country side. i can take more precise photos if you guys need it im just hella stumped this is my first every muscle car which i bought because it looked cool and hell its a camaro. Any info or any help is much appreciated just want some help from the big leagues so 17 year old me can start this project and get her running

ROH Drift R wheels

LoudmouthSS — Fri, 15 May 2026 00:37:36 GMT

3rd gen Roh Drift R 18 inch wheels.

18x9 and 18x10. Fronts have 265 tires, rears are bare. Overall good shape.

$800. Don't really want to ship them.

Colorado Set of 4 TurboCast Wheels with 4 Bowling Ball Hub Caps - Local Pickup or ship to

mykull83 — Thu, 14 May 2026 17:56:52 GMT

This is a set of 4 of the Turbocast Aluminum Wheels originally for 1982-84 Pontiac Firebird and Trans Am. Also included are the OEM "Bowling Ball" Hubcaps. These are the 14x7 Wheels and caps. Wheels are in good condition. The caps are in good condition with normal wear and tear, and clips have some cracks and wear, but overall are in good shape ready to install. (See Pics). This is for the whole set of 4 wheels and 4 hub caps. Local pickup or Insured Shipping available ($140) Will be shipped in 3 separate boxes. Located in Bennett Colorado - $800

88 Firebird - Rear bumper 'inserts' removal

Ghettobird52 — Thu, 14 May 2026 17:53:26 GMT

Hi all,

It's been a long while since I've posted, but still have the third-gen! Getting back into the F-body (third gen) world and starting on some body items. Years ago, I had the car resprayed (white) and the shop sprayed directly over the entire car, blasting the door handles, and the entire bumper covers, including the black (rubber?) 'inserts'. I wanted to see how I can remove these and get them back to black. I was starting with the rear bumper as I may just swap the front bumper entirely for a new one/style.

For the rear bumper cover, do I have to remove it entirely to get those black inserts off? Watching the video linked below, it appears they are bolted or snapped in and I will require full removal of the bumper cover. Does this sound correct, or is there a way to pop them out without removing the entire bumper?

I hope everyone has been doing well! Interested to see who is still around. Thank you all in advance.

CARS AND COFFEE

gt4373 — Thu, 14 May 2026 04:08:23 GMT

June 2026 featuring GM and GM-powered cars - Cars and Coffee Darien

CAR SHOW

gt4373 — Thu, 14 May 2026 04:06:34 GMT

1982 Pontiac PMD Seats Black Cloth - Pickup or ship

mykull83 — Thu, 14 May 2026 03:41:33 GMT

Set of front PMD seats from 1982 Firebird in good condition. Has rips and defects but are perfect candidates for reupholstery. $700

Local pickup or ship ($165) to anywhere in the lower 48. Located in Bennett, Colorado

Camaro LS SWAP

hillbillycamaro — Thu, 14 May 2026 02:21:53 GMT

I want to LS swap my 3rd gen camaro but I am not sure which engine I wanna get. As strange as it sounds I am deciding between a 4.8L (LR4,LY2,L20) and a 6.2L (L92/L9H). I am also getting a T56 transmission. The main reason why I am LS swapping the car is to improve handling by make the front lighter hoping that it would improve weight distribution. I want a fun street car that I can occasionally bring to the track I can get both of these engines at the junkyard for the same price. Now I understand that the 6.2L (L92/L9H) is obviously better value for money and thats it is literally a budget LS3 but the thing is I am not sure if I can handle 400 hp. My daily is a 200 hp FWD car and the most powerful car I have ever driven had 330 hp but it was AWD. I can handle modern car with 400 hp no problem but 400 hp in an 80s car with a solid rear axle scares me a bit. Now for the handling aspect I plan on getting KONI yellow shocks with UMI lowering springs and all the other supporting mods the lower the car properly (RCLA relocation brackets, adjustable panhard bar...). I am also getting a wonder bar and I am considering getting some UMI subframe connectors. I am also planning on upgrading the brakes but I am not sure if I wanna go with dual piston C5 calipers or gen 1 4 piston brembo CTS-V calipers. Is the 4 piston CTS-V caliper overkill? Is the 2 piston C5 caliper good enough? The reason why I am considering a 4.8 is because its light and it doesn't make a lot of power so its beginner friendly. My heart says 6.2 but my brain says 4.8....

Let me know what you guys think.

Need a replacement Y pipe for N10 car

CamaroZ_85 — Thu, 14 May 2026 02:16:18 GMT

Short question:
Are the manifolds different on an N10 car, and if not will a single-cat y-pipe bolt up to them?

More background:
The PO of my car hacked the living daylights out of the cats to gut them. Essentially they cut open the body of each, gutted them, then welded them back together. So, I'm left with leaky stinky exhaust.

In an ideal world I'd do a full exhaust with headers and a new cat, but that's not in the toy budget right now. I need an interim solution to stop the leak and get a functioning cat on the car. My thought was to source a stock single-cat pipe and one of the less expensive universal cats from Summit etc. and make it work.

Any other possibilities within ~$200?
I supposed I could cut out the existing cats and weld in 2 of the universals, but I need to get under it for a closer look before I can determine how feasible that is.

Blew it up

dwwebste — Thu, 14 May 2026 01:55:05 GMT

I am not looking for sympathy nor for ridicule, I feel quite dumb enough as it is. Rebuilt a 5.3, feeling proud of the job I did. Got it back in, started up, and after a few minutes heard the sound of broken metal. Pulled the engine back out, to find a bolt had somehow fallen into the engine when it was open, and caused catastrophic damage. Base on the head damage, I'm guessing it fell into the intake as I was moving all around, covering the bay with a tarp when not working on it, etc. So first lesson learned is DON'T SKIP taping the intake closed.

I'm not sure if the gouge in the cylinder wall is repairable, or if machine shop would need to sleeve the cylinder. The head is obviously toasted, as well as that valve that is blown a chunk off.

But my honest question is do I replace all pistons or just the dead one, assuming the cylinder wall is repairable? And do you replace the one valve or replace them all?

Learn something every day!

Stupid bolt

That's not supposed to look like that

Head is dead

Piston blown out

Rod scraped the cylinder wall

Battery not charging.

DigitalDan3 — Wed, 13 May 2026 22:49:23 GMT

Just replaced my Alternator on 1988 project car which sat for 19 years. Still not charging. Someone changed the battery cable ends to top post. There are 2 main wires coming off the positive post. One goes to the alternator the other the starter I believe. Off of the Alternator wire there are 2 more wires molded into the casing. One black and connects to red at the connector which goes to the fuel relay the other is orange which I have no clue where it goes. On a previous thread it was determined that there was a break in the black-red wire going to the fuel relay as this should have power all the time. I fixed that thanks to you guys the car runs! I took apart the connector on the orange wire and it has 12 volts so there's no break in the wire there.

One post said there was a Battery light on the dash and if it's blown out it would not complete the circuit or enough resistance to kick the alternator on. I tore apart the dash. No battery bulb. Ugh.

The plug going into the alternator has three wires (Red, Tan and Black) Red is hot all the time. Tan is Hot when ignition is on. Tan wire tells alternator to switch on I believe. Black wire ground? I am not sure why I am only getting 11.8 volts at the battery and car is only running off the battery.

I suspect that maybe the cable from the positive to alternator is bad. I did a continuity test and it's not an open line.

Any help would be much appreciated.