http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard Looking to upgrade or get the most out of what you have stock? All brake discussions go here! en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 08:22:59 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/550205-stock-lines-c5-ls1.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:04:23 GMT Doing the front c5 brakes and rear ls1 setup real soon, and want to know if the stock lines will fit or screw in while I upgrade them? I do want to... Doing the front c5 brakes and rear ls1 setup real soon, and want to know if the stock lines will fit or screw in while I upgrade them? I do want to get the Earl's lines, but just want to know if I should buy Earl's 3rd gen lines, or get the c5 front lines and rear ls1 lines. Thanks guys! ]]> Brake Board camaromike222 http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/550205-stock-lines-c5-ls1.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/550183-silverstone-ss-braided-brake.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:23:48 GMT Anyone using them? Looking for a set of 4 to add to the car when i install the 4th gen rear and C5 fronts. ... Anyone using them? Looking for a set of 4 to add to the car when i install the 4th gen rear and C5 fronts.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT ]]> Brake Board rce2win http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/550183-silverstone-ss-braided-brake.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/550154-brake-dust-shield.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:31:28 GMT Is it ok to leave it off? Is it ok to leave it off? ]]> Brake Board lonesomeloser http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/550154-brake-dust-shield.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/550153-please-help-me-finding.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:23:14 GMT I have a 1986 Camaro IROC-Z28 with the 5.0L V8 and i went to pull my parking brake and i lost tension. I lifted my car and i found that the equlizer... I have a 1986 Camaro IROC-Z28 with the 5.0L V8 and i went to pull my parking brake and i lost tension. I lifted my car and i found that the equlizer bracket was broke. The bracket is where the two cords from each brake come together to one. GM doesn't make the part anymore and i'm having a hell of a time finding a replacement. Please help with any advise. Thank you. ]]> Brake Board Dmenz33 http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/550153-please-help-me-finding.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/550066-front-passenger-side-brake.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 05:58:16 GMT I have searched the forum but wasn't able to find anyone with this issue.
the right front brake seizes/sticks but only in traffic, or if the car isn't constantly moving. (normal street lights are ok)
If the car has been idling I can use the brakes twice before the wheel locks, cold water seems to cool it off and it spins again in a couple of minutes.

Yesterday I jacked up the car let it run for 20 minutes and the wheel spun fine, pressed the breaks over 5 times and it spun fine, put the car on the ground moved it two feet and stopped it, backed it up two feet stopped and then jacked it up and the wheel was seized solid.
Could it be the heat and it off the ground keep it cool enough? Can't see it being the friction from moving all of 4 feet and stopping lightly.
The car does have Headman Headders and there are slight leaks at the gaskets (going to fix that, but getting stuck in traffic is a real issue, I want to fix the breaks 1st. I've had to pull over and wait for it to cool off and for traffic to pass...)

I have already replaced the caliper and bleed the lines, with no change...

I read the rubber line can collapse, was does this look? My lines look fine.

Thanks in Advance! ]]> Brake Board 88 TA GTA http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/550066-front-passenger-side-brake.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/550004-wheel-bearrings-shot-fast.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:59:22 GMT suspect wheel bearrings....]]> 91Bird WS6 bought in the spring with terrible noise up front (passanger side) Not like metal to metal but a terrible noise > suspect wheel bearrings. While redoing the entire front brakes(Rotors,calipers,pads), replaced both inner and out wheel bearrings on both sides. Terrible noise is back, on the passanger side again... Rotor is smooth, not warped. Pads are fine. >>>Suspect wheel bearrings. What causes fast wheel bearring wear other than over tightening/under tightning? ]]> Brake Board bitchin_buick http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/550004-wheel-bearrings-shot-fast.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549946-brake-pads-pontiac-trans.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 12:59:32 GMT Is it possible that brake pads for Pontiac Firebird GTA 5.7 1988 are the same for front and rear disks? I saw on SummitRacing this model of brake... Is it possible that brake pads for Pontiac Firebird GTA 5.7 1988 are the same for front and rear disks?

I saw on SummitRacing this model of brake pads: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SU...%7cLiter%7c5.7

As you can see, the sam pads fit on rear axle and front axle!?!

I need to order brake pads for both axle, but I don't want to make a mistake :)

Does anybody knows is this a right choice for my GTA?

I didn't change brake rotors on both axles, so it's as they put in factory :)

Thank you all in advance.

Best regards! ]]> Brake Board shone190 http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549946-brake-pads-pontiac-trans.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549855-autozone-c5-reman-front.html Tue, 17 Nov 2009 18:47:38 GMT They go for $104.99, which I think is a good deal and they have a warranty from what I can see. They are remanufactured and have the Corvette logo... They go for $104.99, which I think is a good deal and they have a warranty from what I can see. They are remanufactured and have the Corvette logo machined off, which I think is nice since it will look like they came stock with the car. What do you guys think? I'm serious as all hell about doing the c5 front brake conversion and kind of like the idea of these calipers from a part store with warranty, as opposed to ones from Ebay, or other used ones. Your thoughts? ]]> Brake Board camaromike222 http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549855-autozone-c5-reman-front.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549698-c5-breakes-soon-why.html Mon, 16 Nov 2009 07:11:58 GMT I havn't been able to find out the reason as to why I need to machine my hubs for c5 rotors. Can someone go into detail as to why I need this done? Thanks. ]]> Brake Board camaromike222 http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549698-c5-breakes-soon-why.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549651-where-buy-proportioning-valve.html Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:34:41 GMT where can i buy a proportioning valve for iron caliper rear discs and regular single piston iron front disc brakes for a 87 irocz where can i buy a proportioning valve for iron caliper rear discs and regular single piston iron front disc brakes for a 87 irocz ]]> Brake Board 87SnowFlake http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549651-where-buy-proportioning-valve.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549609-stock-crap.html Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:13:57 GMT > only 7months ago!...]]> I'm no spring chicken! Replaced with new calipers, pads, rotors, inner/outer wheel bearrings. struts & end link bolts/bushings! >> only 7months ago! Any rim/tire combo sounds like crap! All new within 7 months:gocrazy:and sounds like hell again, worse when iI brake! Put the cragars back on and still sounds like helllllll. New parts only 7months old:gocrazy: ]]> Brake Board bitchin_buick http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549609-stock-crap.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549592-brake-maintenance-upgrade.html Sun, 15 Nov 2009 14:06:51 GMT Im looking to do some maintenance on my factory brakes, and was wondering what i could do to upgrade at an affordable cost, im probably not going to... Im looking to do some maintenance on my factory brakes, and was wondering what i could do to upgrade at an affordable cost, im probably not going to play too much with the rear drums since in the near future id like to put disks back there, but front disks, im thinking new calipers, pads, etc. Anybody got some ideas for affordable($200-$300) upgrades? Also, on a side note... my e-brake doesnt want to hold. Car in neutral, engine off, ebrake pulled, and it'll slowly roll on its own... is this just adjustment, or could it mean its time for new rear drums? ]]> Brake Board redtruck18 http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549592-brake-maintenance-upgrade.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549526-my-first-experience-w.html Sat, 14 Nov 2009 21:11:42 GMT (The following was my experience with swapping a master cylinder on my ride/ The brake pedal was to the floor, even while engine off, and brake... (The following was my experience with swapping a master cylinder on my ride/ The brake pedal was to the floor, even while engine off, and brake calipers weren't working)
11-14-2009
im in the process of replacing the master cylinder. I stripped the top flare on the master cyl. but was able to remove the stripped flare with vise grips. as a result the brake line 5" needs replacing because of top strip. (didnt want to use the vise grip to tighten after swap :crazy:

I have two questions...
1. the flare nut to combination valve (12mm) is hard to remove. Any TIPS?
2.I got a 12mm flare wrench on the flare nut on combo, but the wrench ends are opening slightly wanting to strip the nut..is that normal to do that?

ps. im wanting to use pb blaster. but dont want to contaminant the lines. is that too lame?

Update. I sprayed it with brake cleaner, and put the vise grips on it. a little flexing and it worked! at the expense of breaking the warning switch on the combo. i busted the brass terminal going into the combo, i tested the switch doesnt work.

update #2
i bought a new pre fabed brake line 8iches. its 3/16 is that right? a 12mm flarewrench fits it. i turn the flare nut into the master female bore threads, and it screw half way in a stops. im thinking something is obstructing the thread hold. im going to torque past the obstruction and see if that help, maybe excess metal chip painted in the threads inside. its a reman. master cylin btw. I bought a caliper, on the reman, caliper i got, the inside of the piston on the front caliper is rusted with paint painted over the rust (cheap reman .brake calipers from AZ.) .
AND when inspecting my old master-rez was gunky, clogged my vacuum bleeding tool tube when removing fluid from the rez. the whole inside is a 1/16 inch thick of slime gunk. probably from the seals. I think maybe it clogged the brake line to the passenger brake caliper, because after installing just the caliper, i bleed it two times and it wouldnt close/clamp. new brake hoses too.im going finish replacing the master and then after i bleed the brake all around, leave the bleeder screw out, and press the brake to force out the gunk if it is that. if the gunk from the master rez clogged my 1/4 tube on brake bleeder, imagine the skinny brake line tube. ..il update in a few hours.

update#3
I pulled the master cylinder out.i seen it was leaking into the brake booster area where the rod connects. I the master rez was brittle that it broke upon removing it from the old master. the brake line i got was the wrong one, i removed the old brake line to take with me to the parts store when i get the rez, new lid gasket.. This whole time i couldve gotten the Napa reman. Master cylinder comes with everything 24 bucks instead of getting parts separate.
Flare nut size for the front brakes on the master is 12mm and coarse thread, the back brakes port is 14mm fine thread. for the search people.
-I wanted to know what failed in the master cylinder so i took it apart. the seals weren't riped or torn. just worn.the secondary seal on the rear brakes piston was worn badly and was flat. no visibly lip extruding beyond the piston. And the large primary piston's o ring was worn obviously because of the fluid in the brake booster area. The Gunk that was found, had to have come from the lid gasket only explanation.. it only makes sense. whats surprising though, is even after the brake hoses install a month earlier the the fluid still was black. before changing the master cylinder, i changed the brake caliper and bleed about 16oz of fluid through the caliper to get bubbles out. When i poured the fluid into a bottle from the master before removal I noticed that it was black black black. floating gunk. suck nobody gots the rez for the master. i gotta order it.

update:4 11/16/09
Well Im officially a idiot. I break everything i touch. I got my master Rez today form AZ, came with cap, lid gasket, Rez body. i cleaned them good with cleaner and installed them to the master clyinder on the bench. As i was installing the bleeding kit plastic nut, i stripped the same nut as the hard line but this time plastic bleeder piece broke into two pieces. the thread part it stuck broken in the master now. sometimes i just ruin everything. the way im working ill probably ruin everything from the master to the caliper. probably will ruin the brake line while im at it Earlier ruined the combination valve.. anyway, i tried looking for the brake line piece i ruined last friday, nobody in town has it. i have to BUY it online from a brake supplier (15 bucks) gezz. i can do the work but i ruin it in the process. just like when i changed my struts, i stripped the nut at top. a whole 80 dollar strut mount was needed then. the breaking parts giant i am. ill continue to update until im done and stop on a dime.

update 4 1/2:
i got the plastic out, i had to clear the hole and bleed out the crap it was clogged. but its out. i bench bleed by pushing a trolly jacks lever and pressed the master cylinder on the bench up against the wall instead of a vise. and installed the minor stripped brake line with the end connected to a clear tube and ran to waste. it all workd so far, rock hard. im going to install it ill post back in about maybe an hour after bleeding the wheels.

update:5 geez 11-16-09
Ok i bleed the wheels which took forever. with one man bleeder vacuum mity vac. i prefer the partner bleeding. with the one man bleeder, i had to take out each bleeder screw (gravity bleed each wheel too while i wrapped the bleeder screw threads) I put it all back together and cleaned up. washed my hands and sat in the car..i took a breath and pressed the brake pedal.. stiff as a rock baby!!! i pumped them doesnt even count as a pump pedal is hard, doesnt move, i can hear the rear calipers clamp. Before i swapped the master cylinder, the pedal would go to the floor, have to pump multiple times still no stiff then. but its hard now. In the end i used the same stripped flare nut brake line, Until i get the new one in the mail along with the combination valve (broke the warning switch :( got brakes though im going to go to a car wash and clean the car, test the brakes fully. ill update later.

update6: so i i tested the master cylinder out on the street. works 10 times better. stiff. travels 2/3 less than before. with the car off the the pedal is super hard. the car brake normal now, no pulls anymore. im still going to get the combination valve, well case close, thats my experience. i personally liked the ghetto bench bleeding(pressing the m/c up against a wall stud, and using a trolly jack lever handle, i had to use hip against the handle, while it when from spongy to rock solid. brings back memories in 2005 when the booster "went out" before a corner, had to cut the corner no brakes going like 25 or so, maybe less. some Knight Rider status. im changing the title to my experience with a Swapping a Master Cylinder.
-i liked the fact that i didnt have to bleed the system more than once after the swap. Next thing i gotta do is rebuild the steering box, and steering pump. it leaks. so sad. :( ]]> Brake Board transam85dudeman http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549526-my-first-experience-w.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549427-brake-troubles.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 21:24:25 GMT Im having trouble with my brakes.I have four wheel disk brakes.I replaced my rear from a disk/drum rear.I purchased a ile proportion valve from ed... Im having trouble with my brakes.I have four wheel disk brakes.I replaced my rear from a disk/drum rear.I purchased a ile proportion valve from ed miller.My problem is i cant get fluid down to the front calipers i bled the master i have good fluid pressure! i also removed the brake line from the prop valve also i had good pressure.I also removed the brake line from the drivers front caliper i have no fluid! i pump the pedal i get nothing.Anyone please it has me baffled Fluid is not reaching my calipers.:thanks::thanks: ]]> Brake Board blackroc68 http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549427-brake-troubles.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549387-how-tell-if-i.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 07:25:02 GMT Hi gang,

Well it's about time for a rotor and pad change, first time for me. But I don't know how to tell if I have a 1LE front brake set-up or not. The good thing is I have the original window sticker from the car, and all the options and stuff it came with. Looking over some stuff I can read and some I can't. But here's the brake code I have J65, the Iroc-Z option 1SB, it's package #2. Any help guys would be greatly appreciated!

Ron
]]> Brake Board 88Roc-z http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/brake-board/549387-how-tell-if-i.html