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Old 06-30-2004, 08:55 PM   #1
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Built my own leak down tester

Well looked around all day for a place that sells a leak down tester and only found that Napa sells it for $110. I wasn’t about to pay that so I want to home depot and bought all the fittings and made my own, what do you guys think?
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1989 IROC-Z 350, Blue, T-Tops
Blue 1989 IROC-Z T-tops
Engine: 350 ZZ4 Equivalent (ZZ4 Heads, cam, pistons, and rods) / Accel TPI Baseplate / TPIS Large Tube Runners / DIY chip / and a bunch of other odds and ends
Drivetrain: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4 Tranny / Vigilante TC, 2600 Stall / LS1 Driveshaft / DANA 44 Rear w\ Moser Axles, 3.23 Gears, Trac-Loc LSD
Chassis & Suspension: Spohn Sub-Frame connectors / C4-HD Brakes / Polished 16" IROC Rims

Website: My Website, Brake Upgrade How-to, etc ~Luke
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Old 06-30-2004, 09:04 PM   #2
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Car: Camaro Z281991 Engine: 5.7L/350 TPI Transmission: TH700R4 ··································· Car: Acura CL 1998
Engine: 3.0L/183
Transmission: 4 spd auto/OD

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looks great !
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Old 07-01-2004, 01:59 AM   #3
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In case anyone else is tempted to do the same http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
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Old 07-01-2004, 01:11 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by Apeiron
In case anyone else is tempted to do the same http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
After looking over this design I can not figure out how it will work. You need a way to pressurize the cylinder then cut off the air supply to it and measure the loss. With that design there is constant pressure to the cylinder, there is no cut off valve.

Last edited by 89 Iroc Z; 07-01-2004 at 01:14 PM.
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Old 07-01-2004, 02:12 PM   #5
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The female disconnect keeps the gauge portion sealed until you hook it to the hose going to the cylinder. You adjust the regulator for whatever pressure (he specifies 100psi) and then hook it to the cylinder....the .040 orifice serves as a restrictor to control the airflow and the gauge reads how much pressure the cylinder will hold at that given flow rate. Higher pressure equals less cylinder leakage.

Open valves will show near 0 psi and a good sealed cylinder will be in the 90+ psi range (using 100 psi feed.)
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Old 07-01-2004, 02:49 PM   #6
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Right, sealing it up and then watching the pressure bleed off doesn't really tell you much.
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Old 07-01-2004, 05:19 PM   #7
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Oh okay, I get it now. I guess opening the valve slightly would be too inaccurate, so I will have to figure out some way of making a restrictor.

EDIT: The smallist drill bit i could find was 1/16 = 0.0625 = ~1.588mm, do you guys think it matters that much if it is not .04?

Last edited by 89 Iroc Z; 07-02-2004 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 07-01-2004, 09:56 PM   #8
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A bigger hole will make it less sensitive. It'll probably still be good for burnt valves and what-not, but really slow leakage like through a borderline head gasket may be a little harder to see.


For really small bits, try looking in the Dremel section. they have some pretty tiny ones sometimes.
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Old 07-01-2004, 10:36 PM   #9
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In the dremel section I found a 1/32 and 3/64 drill bit.
1/32=~0.031=~0.79 Millimeters
3/64=~0.047=~1.19 Millimeters

So the question is which drill bit to use? Anyone have a suggestion?
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Old 07-01-2004, 11:07 PM   #10
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Either one would probably be close enough. Try a hobby store though, they have all kinds of tiny drill bits.
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Old 08-05-2004, 04:18 AM   #11
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Where did you get the spark plug fitting?
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Old 08-05-2004, 05:13 AM   #12
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KD Tools P/N 901, includes 14mm and 18mm spark plug to 1/4" NPT adapters. Costs about $5. Or you can use a P/N 2992 which is the same thing in a 14" hose. I'm sure there are other sources as well.
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Old 08-05-2004, 05:13 AM
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