do they make a roll cage out there specifically for T-toped 3rd gens, where-as it follows the the shap of the t-top, or is that something i would have to take down to a fabrication shop? ~Nick~

you won't find many if any roll cages that are a direct fit, they're more universal and you cut to fit your application.

I installed an eight point roll bar in my 87 iroc. took several days to install. The roll bar kit came from Jegs. All kits have to be cut to fit as all parts come too long, this allows you to custom fit to your particular needs. Also invest in the rear seat saver bars if you want to retain the use of rear seats. I will post some pictures after I get some made.

We have an S&W 14 point kit for the turbo car. I haven't installed it yet but when I mocked everything up the t-top levers look like they'll be tight, but, they'll work just fine

I wanna say it was Kenny Brown who used to make F-body specific roll cages, but I'm not positive on that.

Mathius

Nick, if you need to go to a ten-point cage with tubes heading along the roofline to a forward hoop, you'll most likely have to run your tubes across near the hatch lever to keep it safe. Otherwise the forward hoop will not have enough strength to keep you safe in the event of a rollover. If you are thinking of putting in a forward roll hoop with a single overhead tube that runs down the centerline of the car, then you will be in essence adding nothing more than weight to the front of the car: Weight that you can smash your skull into as the roof collapses in around you.

Either stick to an eight point roll bar, or else do the conventional ten-point design and wear a helmet when you drive the car.

Think twice about it,

--Dan

Get in touch with Stephen 87 IROC over in the Organized Drag Racing and Autocross board. He's the Moderator over there and he has a T-top car with a full cage. He should be able to answer any of your questions or concerns.

I was bored and decided to check out some of the other forums when I just found this topic.

I use a Jegs cage which I think is made by S&W. The halo bar is bent enough to allow T-top removal. The bars don't go straight back to the main hoop but are bent inwards. It's a tight fit but I can still unlock and remove my T-tops when I'm working on the car. I made sure of it before welding everything in.

Here's a thought......Why not have the best of both worlds?
I know it's not AS safe as having the full cage, but it's better than not having anything. Keep the center bar in place under the T-Top center section and use removable outer bars to connect the rear hoop to the front. Then to keep the roof from collapsing in around you and smashing your skull, use some "gusset" bars to keep the front hoop open in case of rollover. Then You can have your full cage and still have the open feeling when the T's are out.

I'm not so sure that would be NHRA certified. I'll have to look in my rulebook tomorrow at work too see if it would be legal. I've never heard of removable halo bars.

I just read my SFI Specs for rollcages. No way would that be legal or certified in NHRA or IHRA.

i have a competition engineering 10pt. cage in my car and the t-top handles are right above the top hoop.. i can open and close the t-tops pretty easy.. but i never use them since i have windows that open.. i can try get a pic if you want..

Here's a link to my T-top install, with two bars along the center. Definately not something you can buy in a kit, but a bender and welder would pay for itself if you didn't have to have a shop do something like what you want. You can start with a 4 or 6 pt kit, so you don't have to make the main hoop.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/fa...e-install.html (Ultra-tight cage install)

Steve, I’ve seen pics of yours in a few places… based on what I’ve seen I’d guess you’re fairly short/not that big. From the pictures I’d guess that someone my size would take quite a while to get into your car if they were able to get in at all…

I’d bet that we’d all like to see all the pics we can get…