Has anyone used the 10PT Jegster cage in there thirdgen. do you like it, was it a pain? feedback please. Looking at it more and more it looks like its going to fit badly, be in the way and just look ****ty.

go with a 6 point unless your running below 9's.... Looks better fits better.... summit also has kit for like 160 about the same as jegs.

I put the 12pt cage in and the fit wasnt that bad, I expected to just fit the pieces together and weld it up. Turns out every piece had to be cut to length and notched with the exception of a couple of the tubes so basically they send you two bundles of straight pipe, there's only four bars that have bends in them. The fit and finish is up to the installer, how much time your willing to spend getting it right. This was pretty easy for me since I'm not reusing any of the interior plastic or stock dash. To get the cage in using stock interior expect to use ratchet straps, bottle jack, blocks of wood, torch, grinder, or gorrila power as some of the pieces will need to be tweaked.

I would have to agree with 1983 fbody, i have never seen a cage that just goes right in. there is always cutting, grinding, and notching that has to be done. as long as you take your time and measure twice and cut once you should be fine. i would order one from a company that is fimilar with f bodies. I ordred mine from spohn and it has the door bars that go around the stock arm rests. it wasnt all that hard to install. pic on the link if you wish to check it out. good luck and let us know how it comes out or if you need anymore help

well aware of the work ahead of me. 83 fbody, does the front posts go through the dash or around the dash like Blue Beast's does? And yes even more time will be spent, cause its gunna have to have interior panels intact.

I use their 12 point kit. As mentioned above, you're not going to find any kit that's a direct perfect fit since it's impossible to put the bars in the exact same location or position in every car. All the kits require final cutting and fitting.

One thing I didn't like about the Jegs kit was the halo/A-piller bar design. There's 2 ways of doing it.

1: The halo bar wraps around the roof line and is welded to the main hoop. The A-piller bars are welded to the halo bar and at the floor. This is how the Jegs kit is designed.

2: The A-piller bar goes up from the floor along the A-piller. It runs along the roof line above the door and is welded to the main hoop. The halo bar is simply a bar that runs across the top of the windshield joining the A-piller bar together.

Personally I like style 2 because it has a cleaner and tighter fitting look when done. Once my kit was in I did a bunch of modifications adding in extra gussets and braces in the corners. I also added sill bars along the door sills tying the A-piller bar together with the main hoop.

My 12 point kit also include a knee bar that I have running behind my fabricated dash. The kit also includes the extra bars for the door to make it an X-brace. The last part of the 12 point kit is the forward bars going from the A-piller tubes through the firewall to the front. Although I don't have the tubes going through the firewall, I do have tubes going from the front of the frame rails to the front of the strut tower. I have the tubing but haven't got around to putting the tubes through the firewall yet.

One thing I did notice about the Jegs kit. The halo bar is bent perfect if you have T-tops. I can still unlatch my T-tops and take them out when I'm working on the car.

The ends of my dash pad are cut off for the A-piller bars to clear.

Stephen, did you have to make a spacer between the fire wall and the manual master cylinder? also, what brand did you use, and do you like it?

My master cylinder is from an S10 that had manual brakes. A spacer just makes mounting it easier but I just have it bolted to the brake pedal bracket on the inside. It's all custom fabricated. The manual brakes work fine for me. I took out the factory combination valve and installed a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve in the system. It's mounted on the floor beside the seat because my rear brake lines run inside the car. The only downside to the S10 master cylinder was finding adaptor fittings so that I could use double flare fittings where metric bubble flare fittings are supposed to go.

There's no real advantage to converting to manual brakes. The weight saving from the booster might be 5 pounds. It's not very heavy. I converted to manual brakes just to make access to the engine easier. You'll also notice the brake lines on the master cylinder are on the fender side. All third gens have the master cylinder ports on the engine side. This means you need to reroute the lines to the other side of the master cylinder. There are no factory lines left in my car.

funny enough, I just realized the benifits last night. I changed the valve springs with the motor in the car and that vacuum assist assembly was pretty much in the way on 5 and 7. Also, you answered a question I had about the flares just a few days ago. I took a rear disk set up out of another third gen along with the master cylinder. I saw the flare and was pretty confused. So is petal feel rough, do you have to really step on the brakes, or it there not too much differece from before? Also, I have checked your site out before, you had some pretty good ideas with you car. I really like the fuse panels. I was going to try someting like that too but was having trouble figuring out what the fuse blocks were, and where to get them. I ended up buying a hot rod harness and putting that in.

I don't notice any braking problems. The fabricated master cylinder pushrod is relocated 1" higher on the brake pedal. This gives more mechanical leverage. It's how the old factory cars did it when manual brakes were an option. I don't know the size of the piston in the master cylinder. The front brakes are still factory stock but my rear brakes are large Ford drum brakes.

The fuse blocks can be found at industrial supply houses or auto parts stores. They're a common item. This page shows what I use.

http://users.milx.net/aumi/GL1800%20...Fuse_Block.htm