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Not trying to be rude or nothing but arent those drums? off of the rear? rotors would be the disks on the front of your car...
Beyond that mix up you could use a high heat paint with muiltipule coats and some clear on top or use some sort of POR 15 product.
Kyle
__________________ 2.8 with cam,port and intake work--soon to be 396 backed with a T-56
1000 watt Visonik amp, duel 1000 watt Visonik subs, Cliff Designs 200 watt 6/9's, Kenwood 200 watt 4/6's, Pioneer H/U, Stinger cap, and fully custom amp rack and ported sub box. It's TO loud..End of story.
Soon to go in: DVD player with 7" monitor, FM Modulator, also have a 12"Kicker L5 sub and a 15" monitor no use for them
I've heard of painting calipers, but never rotors. Why on earth would you paint the rotor? The pad would just wear the paint off, and create a hell of a stink.
well, either way, if it's VHT paint, I don't think you need a primer, just clean it up really well with laquer thinner or something. If you want you can use a can of primer, VHT makes one I think, best to use a matching brand.
Originally posted by Sonix I've heard of painting calipers, but never rotors. Why on earth would you paint the rotor? The pad would just wear the paint off, and create a hell of a stink.
PS. That looks like a rotor to me.
You wouldn't pe painting the face of the rotor, you would be painting everything else. When you take you tire off your rotor is more than likely rusty. When dealing with a show car or just wanting to keep everything clean you can paint the outside edge of the rotors, as well as the center section on the middle back and front.
I have never done this but I would assume brake paint would work. High temp por 15 should do it as well. Stick away from BBQ heat paint. I have had nothing but problems using this stuff in the past, even on BBQs!
I am positive that is not a rotor that is a drum brake off the rear of the car look at the numbers on the outside which would be the brake re-machineing specs and such, plus look an the left outter edge where the support/heatsink ribs which a rotor doesnt have and a drum does.
[end rant]
__________________ 2.8 with cam,port and intake work--soon to be 396 backed with a T-56
1000 watt Visonik amp, duel 1000 watt Visonik subs, Cliff Designs 200 watt 6/9's, Kenwood 200 watt 4/6's, Pioneer H/U, Stinger cap, and fully custom amp rack and ported sub box. It's TO loud..End of story.
Soon to go in: DVD player with 7" monitor, FM Modulator, also have a 12"Kicker L5 sub and a 15" monitor no use for them
Use a high heat paint. Best if you use a matching primer, reading the directions on the back of the spray can will tell you all you need to know. Let it dry well and put several light coats on.
That paint is very durable and has a nice shine to it. I did my rear drums and it looks good.....even after 2 years.
you can always powder coat them, too. thats what i did to mine...they look great. actually, i did that to a set of steel ones then i spray painted a set of aluminum ones that i put on the car later; i used krylon black and it has not burned off. the rear brakes don't get that hot, normally.
__________________ used to be ...... highly modded 3.1.....
best 1/8 mile time...9.51@74 mph
2.04 60' on street tires
best 1/4 14.97@89.95mph
for now ...... stock 3.4
IF you want to powder coat the drums or rotors blast them first , then have them powder coated, then have them turned so the powder is removed from the sufaces where the pads or shoes touch.
(I worked in a custom powder coating shop for 13 years)
Yes lots of corn here also. Not much snow here in the last couple of years. Live close too the state line of Wis. we get a few heavy snows then its all gone . you all just got hammered with snow about a week ago? There are at least 4 or 5 companys in the Rockford area that powder coat.
IF you want to powder coat the drums or rotors blast them first , then have them powder coated, then have them turned so the powder is removed from the sufaces where the pads or shoes touch.
(I worked in a custom powder coating shop for 13 years)
If you worked in a powder shop for 13years and coated the complete drum/rotor and made people turn em down to get the powder off GOD I hope that shop isnt around anymore.
TAPE OFF the surface thats not to get coated.
1. No need to waste powder
2. Why pay for turing em down when it could have been done right the 1st time.
I DO TONS of Harley disks,etc. I cant even imagine any shop doing it like you said.
I painted the rotors and hubs on the TA and both Impalas. It helps a lot to prevent the rust in the ventillation slots, and the big gaps in the Impala wheels reveal a lot of the hub. Mine are all gloss black, and not even powdercoat. My feeling is that too much coating prevents heat rejection, acting as an insulator.
Yes, there are several powdercoaters here in the stateline area.
