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I was wandering if anyone here had any ideas or pictures of how people have put just like a 6 point roll cage in a vert camaro/trans am I am wanting to tie the frame and put a 6 point in my camaro..
I want to keep all the stock panels I can and I have to keep the seat
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Just a word to the wise the rear seat is not safe at all once a roll bar is installed so don't plan on using them. As for tying in the rear of a convertable you would have to get pretty creative I would think.
I know the back seat isnt safe but My 8 sec drag car still has the back seat. I know I have to get creative. I was looking for ideas. I do fabrication and own a High Performance garage.
If im not acting like a idiot it will be fine to have someone in the back seat with the cage. Im most likely not putting the cross bar in the front of the back seat. Doing door bars hoop bar and down bars in rear. Just to make it a little safer incase of accident and roll
Don't know much about making cages/roll bars, but isn't the crossbar a critical part of the whole thing?
__________________ I started racing when I was 7 years old and here I am now... KONI Yellows | Pro-Kit | J&M Strut Mounts | Edelbrock STB | Spohn SFC | 9-bolt disk 3.27
36mm/24mm | UMI Adj LCA/PHB/LCARB | Corbeau seats | plus more ...and I'm only 18
Well yes the Cross bar is critical in a race car.... My car is a STREET CAR......
Reasoning of a Roll Cage......
1. Convertable...
2. No roof for extra support upon roll over
3. Cages in Verts LOOK BAD A$$
4. My 2 year old Loves to ride in the car and I dont feel safe taking her in it.
Since its a Convertable
If I want to race the car if it is 14.99 or faster I have to have a 8 point cage. 12.99 or faster 12 point cage.... So its not worth putting a full cage in the Vert and make it street worthy also. I have a 86 Z Hard Top for that
The bars I am using for sure Hoop down bars next to doors down bars over back seat with a X brace in them. I might also do the top bars and down bars by pillars. Not sure yet.
I have a 6/8 point in my car and I have NEVER been questioned about it. They make sure I have arm restraints and a harness. Once it goes 9's, I think they'll start looking and talking more...I'm ready to do a 10/12 point cage also when that time comes. It's fun racing for now and it can always be cut out when I'm done. Pics are on my site...it's custom built chromoly steel. www.denny.cz28.com
I have a 6/8 point in my car and I have NEVER been questioned about it. They make sure I have arm restraints and a harness. Once it goes 9's, I think they'll start looking and talking more...I'm ready to do a 10/12 point cage also when that time comes. It's fun racing for now and it can always be cut out when I'm done. Pics are on my site...it's custom built chromoly steel. www.denny.cz28.com
Well we have a convertable Chevelle that we run regular at local track and we run low 12s and they trip with a 8 point.
insane thats a nice bird. wat rims are they? and size? never seen them before. prob 9" wide tho. and the cage looks good too.
i just installed a 6pt(is a 8pt just not putting door bars in yet) 1.75"x.134" mild steel DOM tubing cage from competition engereering and i love the look and the stiffness. mines a hardtop tho... usually dont like the cage look in a convertable but insanes is pretty nice.
as far as weight goes. i weighed my 8pt mild steel kit and hoop and it comes to about 100-110lbs... OUCH! its the door bars that weigh alot and the hoop i guess. that 100-110lbs does not include the 6"x6" 1/8" thick steel plates... thats another 10lbs prob. id say the moly kits cut that in about half. prob 50-60lbs for a 8pt cage
I guess I missed this thread when it was originally posted. That's my junk. That cage was custom fab'd by me, using .120 wall DOM mild steel, it's an 8-point and weighs less than 100#'s. - The store bought cages just don't fit well enough(tight enough to the roof) to look right with the top down IMO.
The wheels are Boyd Coddington billets, 17x8 front, 17x11 rear.
As far as weight goes, the "lightness" of molly is a comon miss-conception. Moly is not any lighter than mild steel. The reason cage kits are lighter when made out of moly is because the NHRA allows a thinner walled material when using moly, due to it's "incresed" strength. In a typical 6/8 point cage, you'll save around 20#'s in moly vs DOM steel. - If you use DOM steel(not the comon HREW) you can go down to a .120 wall w/o any issues, thus making it lighter than the typical .134 wall HREW steel tubing.
