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.... and I couldn't be happier. Needed a little strip of sheetmetal added to the far right side, about an inch in width, and could either be spot welded, or pop riveted into place (from behind). Installing it today, once the weather clears up. Thanks again Paul for the welding!
__________________ '90 Trans Am GTA: 305 w/the stock TPI system... and T88 Turbo.
Fastest 305 on the planet...
I'd much rather be stroked first... then blown. Wouldn't you?
^ Just mounted the box for now, along with the resistor up on top of it. Although I glued the sides of the box with sealant, and bolted it all down, for the hell of it, I'm going to seal it some more through the opening, as I couldn't get a bolt down on the lower left hand side. But anyways, here's a pic w/out the wiring and blower. Forgive the glare of the sunlight....;
__________________ '90 Trans Am GTA: 305 w/the stock TPI system... and T88 Turbo.
Fastest 305 on the planet...
I'd much rather be stroked first... then blown. Wouldn't you?
Yes it does. I'm running a newer style blower motor off of an A/C optioned vehicle (4 speeds), along with the stock 4-speed resistor. Four wires lead from the HVAC control unit, to both the resistor, and the relay. From the relay, two wires lead to the blower motor's connector, while another two lead to a constant power and ground (both of which are in the main harness).
I'll post pics of the wiring schematic when I get the chance, and yes, I get all four speeds of the blower motor. This was verified by unplugging the blower motor's vent hole, and watching the internal speed of the unit as the settings went from one through four, increased speed each and every time....
Here is a picture of the modified (shortened) harness. I cut it because I'm a neat freak, and I wanted to reduce clutter. The relay will be mounted onto the firewall, with the two left wires leading to the blower motor, the four right wires leading to the resistor connector, then the HVAC head unit, and the two lower wires leading to a constant power and ground. I will post more pictures of the actual hookup sometime tomorrow....
This may sound dumb, forgive me greatly if it is, but can I not just remove the whole blower and all wiring to it if my A/C already isn't hooked up? I don't need heat or defroster either since this is my March-Nov car (not if it's rainy snowy or too cold) and i'm wondering if the first mounted picture you posted is fine to leave?
This may sound dumb, forgive me greatly if it is, but can I not just remove the whole blower and all wiring to it if my A/C already isn't hooked up? I don't need heat or defroster either since this is my March-Nov car (not if it's rainy snowy or too cold) and i'm wondering if the first mounted picture you posted is fine to leave?
if you mean delete the whole hvac unit then yes all you have to do is make a plate to cover the holes
Oh ok, then say I have a chrome piece cut, I don't even need a delete box, just remove everything and that's that? How do you remove the whole unit? From the interior as well?
there are some screws up top and some down bottom the ones on top you get from the engine bay and the ones on the bottom are inside the car i think they were right by the edge of the carpet if my memory is working good and im pretty sure you can buy the delete plates already chromed and prettied up, dunno where tho
Oh ok, then say I have a chrome piece cut, I don't even need a delete box, just remove everything and that's that? How do you remove the whole unit? From the interior as well?
There are three screws and a stud under the hood on the unit, and there are three screws on the interior near the passengers feet. That will get rid of everything on the exterior of the firewall.
Please do post those wiring schematics.I installed the camaro a/c delete box and I`m having couple issues.I`m using the resistor from the delete box and it`s only got three connectors and I have five wires like you do on the right.I have the blower motor wires and all right I think I just dont know which three of the five wires i need to hook up.Did you make that hose and use groomets or something to connect it?I dont have it but need it or need to make one.
I`ve looked for trucks and vans with these heater boxes around here.Cant find them.What you find here is vans with front and rear air.I dont think I`ve ever seen a car without a/c that was made since atleast 75 or 80.
.... and I couldn't be happier. Needed a little strip of sheetmetal added to the far right side, about an inch in width, and could either be spot welded, or pop riveted into place (from behind). Installing it today, once the weather clears up. Thanks again Paul for the welding!
I was wondering wat u just did just deletes the a/c right? so do u still have heater?
[quote=tommy z-28;3947073]So you can use the stock AC motor and fan cage with no depth issues on this box?quote]
I couldnt use my motor or fan cage out of my IROC, the shaft that the fan cage is on was longer, and the fan cage itself was bigger, I switched the whole motor/fan cage from the G20, different plug but that was no problem. Hooked up just fine, still have all four speeds, its just a little louder.
That answers one question.I bought a fan for a non a/c box and it still wouldn't fit.I guessed that may have been the problem but wasn't sure.I was going to buy the motor tomorrow to see if it was different.
That answers one question.I bought a fan for a non a/c box and it still wouldn't fit.I guessed that may have been the problem but wasn't sure.I was going to buy the motor tomorrow to see if it was different.
Yeah I had to use the whole set-up, I tried the G20 fan blades on my original motor but it still wouldnt fit.
Hey! I did the exact same thing. I got rid of everything and patched up, and smoothed the whole firewall on the passenger side of the car. Quick question, if im looking correctly, did you do away with the wire harness hole? I was thinking about doing the same thing after recieving my new Painless harness a week ago however, im not sure were to run the new harness. Id like to run it in a way that will keep it hidden. I was actually thinking about running what needs to go to the passenger side of the car down the inside of the fiewall over to the sub-frame rail, into the sube frame rail, then run it out of the sub-frame rail closest to were it is needed. Same with the drivers side. Than you wouldnt see any wiring running from the firewall all the way up to the headlight harness until it came out of the sub-frame rail. Im just not sure if i really want to drill wholes in them. But its not like they would be big, just big enough for the wire to come through. My car is frame tied, but im still concerned about the over all structure. What do you guys think? Sorry just thinking out loud!
Last edited by Jeromey Cummins; 12-05-2009 at 09:43 PM.
there will be structure loss anytime its modified. enough to cause any harm? no. drill away in my opinion.
__________________ 1988 IROC-z/28. 4th gen interior. 408 LSx
sporting the stock fuse box and taillights.
too many mods to type.
6.23@109.71 pump gas. all motor.
ok this dont look to bad think we have one of them vans in the junk yard will look at it. only thing id like to know now is can i use the same blower that is on my camaro now with this box out of the van?
Last edited by vangogh4560; 12-08-2009 at 02:59 AM.
Reason: cant typ
how long have people been using these boxes to swap into 3rd gens?
i purchased a "a/c delete box" years ago with no picture.
when i got it, it was not as advertised. i had 3 real deal factory ones and this one was bogus.
i painted it and hung it in the shop so it wouldnt rust.
are they worth anything?
ive got one thats a dust collector.
maybe the guy i got it from thought it was right.
it does not have the extra lip welded on. its completely factory.
ill have to get a pic up.