Saw a guy next to me in a car show with a mint version of my car, even with original window sticker on the window, looked like the car had 25 miles on it. He had some mods, one of which was these two metal plates painted red with IROC badges on them mounted above battery and between the headlights and washer bottle reservoir on the driver's side. Seemed mounted with two bolts each, pretty easy and cheap, have you guys done it/do you like the idea?

Looks pretty good, although I think I'd rather use plastic or fiberglass, something non-conductive. My batter is both top and side post, so I'd be wary about having a piece of metal mounted right over it.

There just a painted battery cover.
I don't run anything in the front, i think it looks much cleaner

Well the metal was raised above the battery and on the other side, but you're right, it might loo better without that, it really is adding more, but I might try it anyway to see how it looks, it'd only take buying some fiberglass and emblems

I think I would use some stainless steel or polished aluminum instead, but you could always stick some dynamat or spray undercoating on the underside to prevent any accidents with the battery.

On a side note: Thats one way to fix a yellowed washer fluid bottle!

I agree.. It does look pretty nice. I never even thought about doing that, but maybe I should. Mine looks like garbage.......

Yeah it looks good, but his overflow jug was painted as well idk what happens when that expands? Yeah, it was painted as well.


Also in his trunk he had a carpeted flip cover over the trunk space, did that come standard or must he have added that?

The cap on the coolant overflow bottle/ resevoir is vented, so the bottle itself doesn't expand when the coolant level rises. The hinged hatch cover was a factory option (don't know what years) and came with a specific rear-most plastic piece with a small ledge for the cover to sit on.

The locking lid could be had (and many cars were equipped with it). Fairly easy to add. Check the following link for more info:

http://www.thirdgen.org/locking

JamesC

I like it. Hides the battery and the monstrosity that is the charcoal canister.

I'm now on the lookout for a locking rear! Covering the charcoal canister is my plan though, i actually like the look of it, even if it makes it look more cluttered, eh i like it. That canister is just more black bulk!

If you use a fourth gen gas tank it'll delete the canister, as the fourth gen tanks have it mounted on them.

I've got louvers, so I don't need a locking rear. Some people think louvers are too eighties, then I remind them when my car was made.

to be more specific, the LS1 cars with plastic tanks have the charcoal canister attached to them. The steel LT1 cars don't. And it's far from a direct swap.

It's not that far. You've just got to mate a few lines. The problem is the LS1 pump assembly uses plastic hoses and we use metal. You delete a line that runs the length of the car, extend the wiring for the new canister and you're done.

It's not hard because LS1 cars have a non adjustable in tank regulator, and they convert from a returnless (Not really returnless anyway...) to a return style, and that way they can get an AFPR.

coming up with an adapter for the fuel line takes some work, unless there is something readily available that I'm not aware of. Also, I've always read that the float for the fuel guage has a different ohm range than the 3rd gens. People always seem to run into that problem when doing an LS1 swap with a 3rd gen tank.

There are. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku for 3/8", http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku for 5/16".
Mine ended up looking pretty much like this http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/lt...s1#post3168999 (LS1 fuel tank (Plastic 99-02 style)) but with Russell 3/8" fittings on the feed and return.
True, but two solutions. 1) http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/lt...-ls1-fuel.html (How-To: Modify LS1 Fuel Sender for 0-90 Ohm Use), or 2) programmable gage. Well, three solutions - 3) 4th gen cluster.