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Re: "My trick" stock boxed upper panhard rod ( Templates Inside! )
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetruck
I actually got real creative and bolted a large double washer type plate to the rear of the brace and rod bolts and then welded another plate above to it boxing the rear. I did this rather than boxing the panhard brace. Not alot of real force on the brace, but a whole lot on the bracket.
Two reasons why my suggestion is better (factually, not opinion)..
1) less weight addition in rear.
2) added more to right side chassis weight. Car already has left side weight higher due to driver weight. Right side weight for balance is always a good thing when "having to add chassis weight to a symetrical setup rod car (non circletrack car) Circle track cars want left side weight- actually left rear weight.
Dean
Dean, how about a pic of what you did or a better description? I read what you wrote you did like 5x and still have no clue what you're actually describing.
As far as the rest of this goes... well it looks like it fits in, and I won't fault your work, but I don't believe that you did more good than the harm you did by adding weight. No issue with _how_ you did it, 16ga is more than enough to do what you're doing there, it will box the structure and keep it from flexing anywhere near as soon as it would before, but I just don't believe that that brace does as much to stiffen that mount as it should or is necessary (I've bent the mount/bracket autoxing without bending the brace). As far as I'm concerned the bracket/mount needs to be stronger and if you're going to get anything significant out of the brace the way it's attached to the bracket will make a bigger change than a stiffer brace.
Re: "My trick" stock boxed upper panhard rod ( Templates Inside! )
I was thinking about boxing my stock lower panhard bar, because im too cheap to buy an aftermarket one right now lol. And it seems like it would be pretty easy. What do you guys think?
Re: "My trick" stock boxed upper panhard rod (paint/install = Done!)
no real point if your keeping the stock rubber bushings in it. at the cost of welding it (wire,gas, steel) and then adding the price of poly bushings(15-20$) for the stock panhard bar then u have already almost reached the cost of a tubular peice which can be had for less than 100$ new... theres a place on Ebay that the guy sells them for insane cheap... u get 2LCAs and panhard bar for like 100$ or something insane. i paid 130$ for my UMI double rod end panhard bar but its well worth it.
