I started with a stock bar upper bar. Then i marked a peace of 16ga 2.25" x 31" This was the start of the center peace

makeing the other peaces

The other peace was a bit tricky so i used a peace of paper and cressed the edges

A flat look



everything cleaned and ready to be tacked

tacking the sides and welding the peaces. I used clamps on each end of the panhard rod and square tubing to act as a flat surface to keep everything from warping.

Stock and boxed side by side.

Now the fun part.

that looks great. would love to see a templet to the sub frame connectors your made.. those are amazing.

I drilled some pilet holes from the back side useing the exsiting holes as a gide. so now i where to cut for the bolts and washers to fit inside the boxed bar.

Why all the holes down the middle?

Did you box the Panhard Bar & LCAs too?

I broke the tacks to spit the two apart for my next fun innovative move

My flare kit. . .

I should be all done with this tomorrow night

Thanks. The amount of work in those subframes i made i think it would be hard to come up with a templet others could fallow

just wanted to try out my new flareing tool
no.

too bad my vert would be helped out by those.. much better then any that ive seen for sale.. if u come up with any ideas for vert subframes feel free to pm me

very very nice

You boxed the part first, that will be the one to give you the least amount of improvement?

When I put on my rod-ended, adjustable tubular PHB from UMI, I noticed the improvement in the first corner out of the neighborhood, onto the highway.

Wasn't thinking about it & "kicked it" around a corner. No slight sideways shift in the bushings, before the rear slid out. It went out RIGHT NOW. Much faster, predictable & manageable response.

No no no! see you have it the other way around something was missing from my setup

I'd say so!

No PHB Brace at all, could be a bad thing, if you put sideways stress on the chassis!

Might wanna put some LCAs in there too, before you drive.....Just a thought. :roflmao:

My next plan is to build is tubler LCA's with rod ends and and bushing on each end. i haven't tryed out the panhard bar i have now but i wanna see how the polys ends are going to feel connering. if i dont like it all build a adjustabile bar with rod ends that was my plan to begain with the bar i bought was cheap and i needed to center my rearend after lowering it. seems you have had good good experience with a full rod-end bar have you noticed any noise increse in the car?

No noticeable increase in noise. Not even with my 17s & their slightly shorter sideways, than the 16s)

I have a set of rod-ended LCAs to go on too. Maybe next weekend (i hope), along with my new wheels & tires.

No cant you see the LCA's? im making a braket to angel them down. i was just mocking up where i wanted to run the angel in that pic. That should control wheel hop

I see the empty bolt holes where the LCAs would mount....

my only question/concern is, the panhard bar will actually sit inside the upper support over by the passenger side body mount. Now that its boxed, the two parts will hit and bind/bend/break. Unless you car sits really high.

that is unless the tubular panhard is that much smaller and creates enough clearance.

Nice dimple die set-up!

It's fine always check things before i build.

you killed it, you killed the joke

I got it... angel...

i just did something like this, i reinforced the panhard rod support with 1/8" steel(your 16 gauge steel is kinda flimsy, ive used thicker stuff on rust repair on my bird, the support bar is 1/8" thick i would have used the same). used like 5 strips about 2-3" wide and tig welded them in... i have the same problem that 86TA stated... the panhard bar hits the boxed panhard bar support at the end near the panhard bar mount to the frame. i now have to cut the one section(side that bolts right next to the panhard bar) off. by the way my panhard bar is a tubular one from UMI with poly onside and spherical rod end on the other.

Just letting you kno that your panhard bar will contact that support bar due to it being boxed and it will bend your panhard bar the first time the rear suspension is compressed. especially if the car has been lowered. i would say to cut out the first 10-12" or so of the boxed support bar for the clearance and then test fit but not driving (have fat friend jump on back of car as u watch the bar compress

just what i said, but he says its fine, we will have to wait and see.

Why did you box over the 3 bolt holes? That should've been left open. Now you have the bolt passing through an open space before going into the body and give it a less solid connection.

very true, unless he puts some spacers in there 1st.

If the head of the bolts fits all the way through, it'll mount just like stock & be stronger. Put in ring spacers & he'd probably need longer bolts. If the head doesn't fit through, I'm not sure the stock bolts would even be long enough.

I did a test to see where the panhard bar and upper panhard bar will sit by pulling out the springs and and jacking the rearend up into the cars body, the rear end was 1" from the stock bump stops before the panhard bar toched the upper peace. i decided to cut out 12" of part i boxed where it bends for the rear exhuast clearance. im going to get a 1.5" tube and cut it in half and mold it in to that area so the panhard bar has some extra clearnce with the upper peace. It all bolts up like stock. the pic with the 3 black sharpy marks i made is showing how much material i needed to remove to fit the bolts and washer threw

pics? not sure how u got the rear up that close before the panhard bar hit the support bar.... my rear only got to like 4 inches before the rear contacts the bumpstop and my panhard bar hit the support bar.

This really makes me want to buy a welder.

I will 3rd the warning and tell you factually that the panhard bar will contact the brace and bend it.

You will need to releif cut the bracket end of the brace that attaches same as the panhard.

Further more, I will strongly recommend at this point you box the chassis bracket this and the panhard tie into.
You do nice work. At the extent you are bracing the car(custom subframe cage included), your next weak link is that chassis bracket in the rear and a (front of the car) rear A-arm ear support brace under the tq convertor area. I enclosed a pic showing the plates in yellow and red where I suggest you support next. I actually got real creative and bolted a large double washer type plate to the rear of the brace and rod bolts and then welded another plate above to it boxing the rear. I did this rather than boxing the panhard brace. Not alot of real force on the brace, but a whole lot on the bracket.

Two reasons why my suggestion is better (factually, not opinion)..
1) less weight addition in rear.
2) added more to right side chassis weight. Car already has left side weight higher due to driver weight. Right side weight for balance is always a good thing when "having to add chassis weight to a symetrical setup rod car (non circletrack car) Circle track cars want left side weight- actually left rear weight.

Dean

nice fabrication work! i like your ideas,finished pics, keep it up.

I'd like to see someone make a stock length bar out of round tube like that, instead of the relocation one that BMR makes.

much better... hows the clearance? is that at ride height?

i was planning on making one out of round tube but theres no real need for it since the stocker is more than strong enough and really its just a support brace for the panhard bar attachment brace. if i were to make one esp tubular it would be to accomplish wat the BMR one does, if i wanted extra clearance

as usual, excellent work fueledsoul.
very pretty undercarrage btw.

thanks guys

clean/primmer/paint/install - DONE!