Fabing floor pan - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

marekdennhardt · 10-27-2009, 11:08 AM

Hey im in the process of making a custom floor pan. I'm wondering if its 100% necessary to bead roll it.

Here is a picture of what im taking about

or check out way more pics of the floor at my car restoration journal
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3382110

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radical82 · 10-27-2009, 11:11 AM

It's going to rattle and "oil can" like crazy if you don't... alternative could be some extra bracing on the bottom, but they add a lot of weight and usually just end up being fugly......

marekdennhardt · 10-27-2009, 11:19 AM

hmm.. ill call around right now and see how much it will be to get it bead rolled.. I already shaped the metal though to fit. (mostly) will getting it bead rolled dramatically change the size of the peice of metal i have cut?

radical82 · 10-27-2009, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marekdennhardt

hmm.. ill call around right now and see how much it will be to get it bead rolled.. I already shaped the metal though to fit. (mostly) will getting it bead rolled dramatically change the size of the peice of metal i have cut?

No, the bead roll actually stretches the metal at the bead more then it shrinks the overall dimension of the piece.... shouldn't be a problem at all. I've done similar patches on numerous cars, about 3 shallow beads running the length of the piece will do fine....sometimes too many beads cause more problems then they cure....

marekdennhardt · 10-27-2009, 03:18 PM

Alright. I called a hot rod builder and he said that with 19 gauge steel it would be good enough to be left flat. But, he said if i bend a shallow x from corner to corner, like duct work panels, into it, that it will be more rigid and should be plenty good for this floor pan.

I'm going to try this next weekend, unless anyone else has a better idea

Stephen · 10-27-2009, 03:26 PM

I'm not sure I'd want my 200lb butt sitting of a flat, un-reinforced plate, of 19-gauge steel.

marekdennhardt · 10-27-2009, 04:25 PM

Yea you make a good point. I'll call around and check prices to get it beaded. It cant be too much

//<86TA>\\ · 10-27-2009, 04:27 PM

definitely bead roll it, even just rolling an "x" in the pan would work. It will look more professional as well.

marekdennhardt · 10-28-2009, 10:39 AM

I can't find any company that does bead rolling.

What kind of place will have that?

marekdennhardt · 10-28-2009, 11:02 AM

Found a place.. Took about 15 calls

jg04222 · 10-28-2009, 01:54 PM

props to you on the floor/subframe repair; most people would have canned the project at the sight of that. what gauge sheet did you make the floorpan out of? i did mine in 16 ga, but i didn't have to do nearly as much as you.

good luck with the bead rolling; that, along with the seat mounts (if you're going to reuse the factory seat mounts) should add a considerable amount of strength to it.

Good luck man.

marekdennhardt · 10-28-2009, 03:11 PM

Thanks for the compliment.

Im using 19 gauge steel and I will replace the factory seat mount.

Also I found out that my school has a bead roller that I can use for FREEE so thats a good thing.

adore · 10-28-2009, 04:34 PM

Your floor looks just like mine, I've gotten the complete left floor pan from carquest (here in Canada) for about 300$, just need to weld it to place.

marekdennhardt · 10-28-2009, 10:03 PM

sweet deal man.

I wont be welding mine till next weekend

Rich2279 · 10-31-2009, 12:04 PM

Summit has this bead rolling kit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts.aspx?sku=HCK-WFBR6

or

Eastwood Company
http://www.eastwood.com/metal-fabric...ad-roller.html

marekdennhardt · 11-01-2009, 08:02 PM

thanks, im going to be getting the pan bead rolled tomorrow